Joined: Oct 2008 Gender: Male Posts: 2,771 Location: Indianapolis,IN (Broad Ripple)
car audio subs vs home subs???? « Thread Started on Jun 6, 2012, 7:53pm »
It is possible or reasonable to build say a sealed box with 2 or 3 jl w6 or 7's and get good sound in a home theater system.... I never really hear much about people using car audio subs.
I knopw they can output alot of sound. But is it more distorted bass.
Polk RtiA9 mains swan diva R3 surrounds Av123 X-voce center Av123 MFW-15 sub eD A5-350 sub Pioneer elite vsx-33 Emotiva xpa-5 50" panny plasma 100" electric Elite screen Epson 8350 Pj Belkin Pf60 10 ATS acoustic panels Harmony one Yeah its a hodgepodge of speakers, Im in the works of getting all new stuff at all times
Joined: Dec 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 2,424 Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Re: car audio subs vs home subs???? « Reply #1 on Jun 6, 2012, 10:43pm »
This is a good question and I sometimes wonder the same thing myself.
Wouldn't it be about the equivalent of a DIY HT sub?
Just grab your car sub, slap it in a box, and get a HT subwoofer amp for it, and dial it in as normal. Seems logical, but yet I never see anyone with Rockford P3 15" subs in their houses.
Joined: May 2008 Gender: Male Posts: 10,333 Location: Valley of the Sun
Re: car audio subs vs home subs???? « Reply #2 on Jun 6, 2012, 11:52pm »
Yes it's entirely possible. The difference between a typical car audio sub and a home sub is their Q and sensitivity (overall system efficiency.) A car sub is generally designed to operate best in a smaller enclosure and be fed tons of power, where a home sub generally works best in a larger enclosure and does not require as much power. If you want to use a car driver in the home or vice versa you should model the driver in a software simulator like Unibox or BassBox Pro or WinISD and see what sort of enclosure size and alignment gets you the best output. I've built killer home theater subs using drivers intended for car audio.
Inaudible is inaudible and you don't get extra brownie points for making it twice as inaudible as another solution. - Kevin Haskins Double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion. Its a killer.
Joined: Jul 2009 Gender: Male Posts: 1,427 Location: Singapore
Re: car audio subs vs home subs???? « Reply #3 on Jun 6, 2012, 11:52pm »
I have an old 10" bazooka tube laying around somewhere and was contemplating hooking it up to an old nad 2200 bridged to see what it would do with bass managed usp-1 input. Might try that in the weekend. No room for it in my car these days anyway.
A car sub maybe more musical...unless you ht in yr car..not impossible these days I guess
Joined: Dec 2008 Gender: Male Posts: 2,243 Location: Washington St. (the dry side)
Re: car audio subs vs home subs???? « Reply #4 on Jun 7, 2012, 12:58am »
I have a 10" Infinity subwoofer in a small sealed enclosure that will be going in my 71 Karmann Ghia after it gets painted and the new interior is in place. I've toyed with it a few times - driving it with one channel of my HT amp - sounds great for music but hasn't enough low end for HT/movie sound effects. I also have a 12" M&K driver stuffed into a small sealed enclosure in my SUV. Since that driver is made for small enclosures it works pretty good. Find drivers that are suitable for the enclosure and you'll have better luck than just stuffing any driver in any enclosure. As DYohn alluded to - match the specs with the enclosure. A 12" driver made for a large ported enclosure isn't likely to impress anyone if its stuffed into a small sealed enclosure. Play around with a program like WinISD Beta for a while and you'll start to see what x-mass and Q values do when the associated driver is put into the right enclosure - or the wrong one. The program gives you a nice graph that shows you the frequency response at any particular db level - and how it changes when you change a value or the enclosure. WinISD Beta is free and is an invaluable tool for homemade subwoofer design.
Yes it's entirely possible. The difference between a typical car audio sub and a home sub is their Q and sensitivity (overall system efficiency.) A car sub is generally designed to operate best in a smaller enclosure and be fed tons of power, where a home sub generally works best in a larger enclosure and does not require as much power. If you want to use a car driver in the home or vice versa you should model the driver in a software simulator like Unibox or BassBox Pro or WinISD and see what sort of enclosure size and alignment gets you the best output. I've built killer home theater subs using drivers intended for car audio.
I have no idea what Q is. guess I need to do some reading.
Polk RtiA9 mains swan diva R3 surrounds Av123 X-voce center Av123 MFW-15 sub eD A5-350 sub Pioneer elite vsx-33 Emotiva xpa-5 50" panny plasma 100" electric Elite screen Epson 8350 Pj Belkin Pf60 10 ATS acoustic panels Harmony one Yeah its a hodgepodge of speakers, Im in the works of getting all new stuff at all times
Joined: Aug 2011 Gender: Male Posts: 225 Location: Savannah, GA area
Re: car audio subs vs home subs???? « Reply #8 on Jun 7, 2012, 7:05am »
As I type I have a pair of MMATS P2.0 15's in my 2.1 system, 1 in each tower. They work wonderfully as a low power subsystem in my house. I have them in about 3.7 cu. ft each, tuned to 22 hz, and they shake the walls, and the rest of the house as well. Each sub has about 600 watts on tap, so I am running a bit higher than reccommended, but I love the headroom I have that way.
The difference is that a car sub will generally operate in a smaller box, but have a higher Fs than a home sub. Fs is the resonance frequency of the driver itself, a lower number can help contribute to delivering more low end. The reason for this is that a car has what's called "cabin gain" which simply is that due to the small interior size of the car, there is a large boost below 40hz or so. They also seem to have more Xmax(stroke) than comparable home subs, this is because of the small enclosures they need to work in. They also seem to have slightly lower sensitivity(efficiency) than a comparable home sub, it's part of the compromise to get the small box size.
Google Hoffman's Iron Law if you are interested in learning what it takes to design a subwoofer. Interesting reading and you will learn something too.
Sony Bravia KDL55NX810 UMC-1 XPA-2 @4 ohms/ch on mids/highs 2x Soundcraftsmen PM860 amps @ 4 ohms/ch on bass 2x DIY 4 way full range towers w/15 inch subs tuned to 22 hz PS3 X360
It is possible or reasonable to build say a sealed box with 2 or 3 jl w6 or 7's and get good sound in a home theater system.... I never really hear much about people using car audio subs.
It is possible or reasonable to build say a sealed box with 2 or 3 jl w6 or 7's and get good sound in a home theater system.... I never really hear much about people using car audio subs.
Joined: Oct 2008 Gender: Male Posts: 2,771 Location: Indianapolis,IN (Broad Ripple)
Re: car audio subs vs home subs???? « Reply #12 on Jun 7, 2012, 6:38pm »
so the jl 13w7's cost more than I remembered. So thats out....
I would like to build sealed box with a good 15" sub. I would cover in truck bed liner which would look my eD sub.... then find some pro amp.. Also would want it under 1000. If it is not worth the time and effort I would just buy a sub from an ID company.
Polk RtiA9 mains swan diva R3 surrounds Av123 X-voce center Av123 MFW-15 sub eD A5-350 sub Pioneer elite vsx-33 Emotiva xpa-5 50" panny plasma 100" electric Elite screen Epson 8350 Pj Belkin Pf60 10 ATS acoustic panels Harmony one Yeah its a hodgepodge of speakers, Im in the works of getting all new stuff at all times
I know a lot of people joke about cracking walls and stuff, but seriously....your walls...they must cry at night.
Thanks bro! And yes, these things can definitely break stuff. I have to check on the window frame thats right next to the rear left subs. I think some thing might be broken, seriously. lol
Not sure if theyre still out of stock right now, but check out the UXL-18. Put it in a sealed 4cuft box, add an EP4000 and BAM!!
Yeah they are out of stock but I think this may just be my next build I would assume this will put out some great bass. Im guessing it will have more output than my eD a5-350?????
Only thing I dont like is how shiny the sub is. is there anything else close in price I could look into? also 18" maybe not so shiny
Polk RtiA9 mains swan diva R3 surrounds Av123 X-voce center Av123 MFW-15 sub eD A5-350 sub Pioneer elite vsx-33 Emotiva xpa-5 50" panny plasma 100" electric Elite screen Epson 8350 Pj Belkin Pf60 10 ATS acoustic panels Harmony one Yeah its a hodgepodge of speakers, Im in the works of getting all new stuff at all times
Inaudible is inaudible and you don't get extra brownie points for making it twice as inaudible as another solution. - Kevin Haskins Double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion. Its a killer.
Not sure if theyre still out of stock right now, but check out the UXL-18. Put it in a sealed 4cuft box, add an EP4000 and BAM!!
Yeah they are out of stock but I think this may just be my next build I would assume this will put out some great bass. Im guessing it will have more output than my eD a5-350?????
Only thing I dont like is how shiny the sub is. is there anything else close in price I could look into? also 18" maybe not so shiny
It's not shiny, it just looks that way in the pic because of the carbon fiber. The carbon fiber cone looks amazing. It's probably one of the nicest looking subs on the market. Mark will have the UXL in stock in a few weeks. I was there about 2 weeks ago and he had all the parts to start building but the cones. They are really good subs and Mark is a great guy to deal with.
Polk RtiA9 mains swan diva R3 surrounds Av123 X-voce center Av123 MFW-15 sub eD A5-350 sub Pioneer elite vsx-33 Emotiva xpa-5 50" panny plasma 100" electric Elite screen Epson 8350 Pj Belkin Pf60 10 ATS acoustic panels Harmony one Yeah its a hodgepodge of speakers, Im in the works of getting all new stuff at all times
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