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Post by chaosrv on Mar 14, 2013 11:24:57 GMT -5
The A-A/B switch should have been on the right. I'm right handed - having to reach over to the left like that is a total deal breaker for me.
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Post by monkumonku on Mar 14, 2013 11:29:57 GMT -5
The A-A/B switch should have been on the right. I'm right handed - having to reach over to the left like that is a total deal breaker for me. Well why couldn't they have made it easy and just included a remote to handle that function??? ;D
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Post by jmilton on Mar 14, 2013 11:38:32 GMT -5
The A-A/B switch should have been on the right. I'm right handed - having to reach over to the left like that is a total deal breaker for me. Well why couldn't they have made it easy and just included a remote to handle that function??? ;D Flip the amp upside down.
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Post by monkumonku on Mar 14, 2013 11:57:15 GMT -5
Well why couldn't they have made it easy and just included a remote to handle that function??? ;D Flip the amp upside down. Actually why can't Emo just offer two versions of the amp, one with the switch on the left and one with the one on the right? That's a real deal breaker, you know.
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Post by Dark Ranger on Mar 14, 2013 11:59:01 GMT -5
You guys crack me up. ;D
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Post by roadrunner on Mar 14, 2013 12:12:45 GMT -5
You guys have missed the obvious solution for where the A-A/B switch should be. The art of compromise says you must place the switch in the MIDDLE of the front panel. ;D I know some of you would want Emotiva to place a switch on both the Left and Right, but that would prove too confusing for some people.
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harri009
Emo VIPs
ReferenceAnalog.com
Posts: 1,425
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Post by harri009 on Mar 14, 2013 12:21:13 GMT -5
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Post by Jim on Mar 14, 2013 12:33:23 GMT -5
If only the switch was on the back! I can't take the convenience of it being on the front. In fact I can't handle having a trigger input either.
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Post by garbulky on Mar 14, 2013 12:43:02 GMT -5
But how can I put the left channel in A and the right in A/B only if there is only 1 switch. REALLY MISSED THE BOAT. ;D That is too funny. I never thought of doing the L/R channels in an A to A/B mix If only the switch was on the back! I can't take the convenience of it being on the front. In fact I can't handle having a trigger input either. I agree. And why is the thing differential?! I think the amount of value in this unit is just atrocious. Respectable folks don't go around selling high end gear cheap.
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Post by chaosrv on Mar 14, 2013 12:49:28 GMT -5
Agreed! It isn't good unless it is expensive. Maybe make the chassis out of granite...
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Post by jmilton on Mar 14, 2013 12:53:33 GMT -5
You guys have missed the obvious solution for where the A-A/B switch should be. The art of compromise says you must place the switch in the MIDDLE of the front panel. ;D I know some of you would want Emotiva to place a switch on both the Left and Right, but that would prove too confusing for some people. Switch? I argued for a knob.... I'm waiting for: "Siri....let's try that again, except this time, A/B mode please."
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Post by chaosrv on Mar 14, 2013 13:01:46 GMT -5
You don't have a knob? tsk tsk.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Mar 14, 2013 13:30:41 GMT -5
Awwwwww, c'mon..... You can't really be complaining because the XPA-1L delivers a lot MORE power than it was rated for ;D It was rated for 250 watts at 0.10% THD. Emo's AP results of 363 watts were obtained because they measured power at 0.371686% THD. They stretched the comparison by using a much higher rate of distortion. I'm not saying it is audible, I'm saying you went from apples to oranges. Why did you test at 0.371686%, obviously to get higher power results. That's fine for an in house test and I have no issue with that or even testing it a 1.0% THD (clipping) just to see what it would hit for fun. But to publish those AP results at the website is sort of deceptive since many folks don't realize that the THD difference inflated the power from 285 to 363 due to the higher THD. Why not do an AP test at 0.1% THD, the exact same as was used to obtain the rated outputs? If my check of your graph is correct then the actual AP power results should be about 285 watts, not 363 watts. If that is complaining I'm sorry. I think it is being accurate.
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Post by deltadube on Mar 14, 2013 14:12:33 GMT -5
What a standard limiter does is to turn down the parts that get too loud. Since, with music, since it's the peaks that get loud first, the limiter turns them down but leaves the average parts alone (another word for limiter is "compressor"). Used in moderation, it may prevent the peaks from clipping, and limited peaks sound better than clipped peaks - but undistorted peaks are better yet. The hazard is that, since the peaks don't distort, it encourages you to turn up everything because it doesn't sound clipped. Limiters are extensively used for radio broadcasts (that's why commercials are louder than most shows, yet they don't clip - because they are MORE limited or compressed). If you want the best sound you want to get rid of the limiter, make sure your amp is powerful enough to play without clipping on the peaks, and simply avoid turning it up past where it starts to distort. [Alternately, if it's a good quality limiter, you can keep it as a safety stop, but set it so that it NEVER limits unless you accidentally turn something up too loud. Most good limiters have lights that tell you when they are limiting. Those lights should be off in normal listening, and should ONLY go on if you accidentally turn something up too high - at which point you should turn whatever it was down until the limit lights stop lighting again. If you set things so that the limiter comes on only when the amp would have clipped anyway, then it will serve as a safety net without damaging the sound (this is assuming it has good audio quality otherwise). I would also test it in and out of circuit to make sure that the limiter doesn't introduce other distortion or noise - some do, some don't.] thanks .. i had no idea a limiter does that.. with the limiter at -10db i can say it sounds great no sign of distrotion when i turn it up to say -10.5db.. its sounds good and loud.. for a good tune.. i have accidentally hit the volume button and it goes up pretty fast .. so that limiter saved me from being 0 in a few sec so i should take it off then is what your saying right? if i hooked up a xpa 1 vs xpa 3 would it be this loud sooner like -20db on the scale with the more power? thanks for you time Hi Kieth.. on my denon 3313 ci .. i think your are referring to the dynamic volume compression there are 4 options -5 -10 -15 db and off.. my system sounds better off not compressing as you say.. the volume limit just stops the volume for going louder the dynamic peaks will still pass by to the amp.. but i dont have fancy lights.. the sound is great .. and loud at -10 limit with volume turn upto the max at -10 db no compression from the denon just not will tell the amp to push more power to the speakers is my understanding.. guess its a good way to save your system eh.. by having it on and your friends start playing with the volume.. take em a while to figure out how to turn it up more.. and there is a more hiden lock feature to make it even harder.. think you talking about the dynamic volume compression not the volume limit.. dynamic is off eq is on limit is set. sound best to me.. thanks..
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Post by deltadube on Mar 14, 2013 14:21:47 GMT -5
Awwwwww, c'mon..... You can't really be complaining because the XPA-1L delivers a lot MORE power than it was rated for ;D It was rated for 250 watts at 0.10% THD. Emo's AP results of 363 watts were obtained because they measured power at 0.371686% THD. They stretched the comparison by using a much higher rate of distortion. I'm not saying it is audible, I'm saying you went from apples to oranges. Why did you test at 0.371686%, obviously to get higher power results. That's fine for an in house test and I have no issue with that or even testing it a 1.0% THD (clipping) just to see what it would hit for fun. But to publish those AP results at the website is sort of deceptive since many folks don't realize that the THD difference inflated the power from 285 to 363 due to the higher THD. Why not do an AP test at 0.1% THD, the exact same as was used to obtain the rated outputs? If my check of your graph is correct then the actual AP power results should be about 285 watts, not 363 watts. If that is complaining I'm sorry. I think it is being accurate. i dont like distortion... thats bad stuff...
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Post by Jim on Mar 14, 2013 14:36:43 GMT -5
If only the A A/B switch was like this... Then it would be perfect. Does anyone else think it's crazy that we're at 33 pages already?
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Post by goat1981 on Mar 14, 2013 14:49:42 GMT -5
Awwwwww, c'mon..... You can't really be complaining because the XPA-1L delivers a lot MORE power than it was rated for ;D It was rated for 250 watts at 0.10% THD. Emo's AP results of 363 watts were obtained because they measured power at 0.371686% THD. They stretched the comparison by using a much higher rate of distortion. I'm not saying it is audible, I'm saying you went from apples to oranges. Why did you test at 0.371686%, obviously to get higher power results. That's fine for an in house test and I have no issue with that or even testing it a 1.0% THD (clipping) just to see what it would hit for fun. But to publish those AP results at the website is sort of deceptive since many folks don't realize that the THD difference inflated the power from 285 to 363 due to the higher THD. Why not do an AP test at 0.1% THD, the exact same as was used to obtain the rated outputs? If my check of your graph is correct then the actual AP power results should be about 285 watts, not 363 watts. If that is complaining I'm sorry. I think it is being accurate. Where exactly is the deception? The specs obviously list 250w at 0.1%THD on the main page... That's not deceiving at all, it's clearly listed. ...how does the fact that it hits 363 watts at 0.3% THD make any difference? Really...
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Post by richardrc on Mar 14, 2013 15:07:09 GMT -5
Keith, I think you have almost written an article for emo-zine on SNR THD+N only a few more terms to go
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Post by milt99 on Mar 14, 2013 15:39:48 GMT -5
XPA-1L Check List: New XLR cables - check New 10 Ga. speaker cables - check One thing missing...... Oh yeah! Where are the dang amps! FWIW, I don't think Chuckie is really complaining in a bad way, just questioning. BTW Chuckie, looks like you and me are kinda neighbors
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Post by Dark Ranger on Mar 14, 2013 16:22:05 GMT -5
...and we interrupt your day to bring you breaking news...
I am back from FedEx and have just finished unpacking, inspecting, and taking initial pics of my brand spankin' new 1L. ;D
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