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Post by Porscheguy on Feb 16, 2013 19:18:56 GMT -5
Anybody use them?
Good?
Bad?
Upside?
Downside?
How to you figure what fuse is enough but not too much?
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Post by Dan Laufman on Feb 17, 2013 9:24:41 GMT -5
Horrible.
IMO, the last thing you want to do is put a fuse in line with your speaker.
Fuses are essentially resistors, and the voltage drop across the resistor (fuse) changes as the impedance of the speaker changes (which it does). This affects SQ. Now don't everybody jump in and tell my why I'm wrong, or whatever. This is just my opinion. And I'm always right. Just ask my kids.
Also, and more importantly: it's very difficult to get the "right" fuse, even if you decide to go this route!! Too big, not enough protection. Too small, frequent replacements, usually at the worst possible times.
MO:
Get a good, powerful amp.
More power = less chance of clipping! THIS is what ruins speakers quickly! You can't believe how much damage is done by small power amplifiers. Don't skimp on power!!!
Make sure it has DC offset protection.
When something sounds iike it's in trouble, back off, now!
Sit back and enjoy.
Peace out.
Big Dan
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Post by Porscheguy on Feb 17, 2013 9:33:07 GMT -5
I figured as much.
Oh, and don't worry, I have a powerful amp. Several......... :-)
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Post by jackfish on Feb 17, 2013 10:18:34 GMT -5
I agree completely with Dan. Magnepan fuses their speakers. Thankfully Peter Gunn removes them.
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reaper60
Sensei
Music Makes Me Happy!
Posts: 505
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Post by reaper60 on Feb 17, 2013 10:43:37 GMT -5
Aren't your Snells fused? Or is that just the tweeter? I've never been a fan of fuses in line with speakers. B&W did a better implementation of it where they used a self resetting circuit breaker that simply diverted the power to a bank of resistors that diffused the excess power as heat. This was called the Apoc circuit. Check it out.
I still think that these types of things are rarely if ever needed. Most B&W 801 owners remove the Apoc circuits from their speakers.
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Post by ausman on Feb 17, 2013 11:15:41 GMT -5
damn I thought bose were the only silly 1's enough to put fuses in their speakers..
Understand the point of a fuse in subwoofer, though in a tower i can't see the point unless your paralleling 2 or more sets of speakers together..
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Post by Porscheguy on Feb 17, 2013 12:33:08 GMT -5
Aren't your Snells fused? Or is that just the tweeter? I've never been a fan of fuses in line with speakers. B&W did a better implementation of it where they used a self resetting circuit breaker that simply diverted the power to a bank of resistors that diffused the excess power as heat. This was called the Apoc circuit. Check it out. I still think that these types of things are rarely if ever needed. Most B&W 801 owners remove the Apoc circuits from their speakers. Tweeter only... Saved my ass more than once. I do understand Dan's point though. I do wish someone could design "something" that would prevent frying speakers.. I fried the tweeter in my Snell CC-1 and it cost $90 for a new one. And thats with a XPA-5 driving it. |
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Post by ausman on Feb 17, 2013 14:20:04 GMT -5
sounds like all the speakers weren't in the right sequence in wiring..
the total sum should be all speakers in box driven, sounds like the combined total of wattage in box outputs less than what the amps provide, classic example amp outputting more than what the speakers can provide for... in short blowing speakers..
I'd also recommend checking the solder joints in the snells, the speaker likely fried to bad contact rather than over power, might aswell check the cable gauge they used in the internal wiring..
you can spend $2.5k on a speaker only to have it fail just because some twit wires it with the wrong wire and doesn't use the correct amount of solder and you connects to a power amp & cooks a speaker or 2 because sloppy workmanship..
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Post by jmasterj on Feb 17, 2013 14:29:48 GMT -5
Not jumping on anyone, I have Maggie MMG's which we've already established are fused. I have not had an occasion to replace those fuses as of yet. I have however modified the speakers a couple of times by removing the fuse from the circuit. I found that it seemed to open up the mids. Strings in particular sounded more life like with more resolution. This seemed to take away from the high end sizzle of the ribbon tweeters to me. I prefer mine with the fuses in.
That being said, back in the 70's I use to try all kinds of stuff. I think I remember fusing some KLH Model 5's or maybe it was some Bose 901's I had back then. I believe I was tyring the Hafler Circuit something like that. Fusing will take a little away from the speakers performance. But they are relitively cheap and you can keep extras around. I would rather blow a fuse than a driver, or speaker, or a crossover.
I would suggesst you contact the speaker manufactor in reguards to using in line fuses. They will be able to tell you what amper, and if in fact a fuse is necessary. Good Luck J
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Post by Porscheguy on Feb 17, 2013 15:58:32 GMT -5
sounds like all the speakers weren't in the right sequence in wiring.. the total sum should be all speakers in box driven, sounds like the combined total of wattage in box outputs less than what the amps provide, classic example amp outputting more than what the speakers can provide for... in short blowing speakers.. I'd also recommend checking the solder joints in the snells, the speaker likely fried to bad contact rather than over power, might aswell check the cable gauge they used in the internal wiring.. you can spend $2.5k on a speaker only to have it fail just because some twit wires it with the wrong wire and doesn't use the correct amount of solder and you connects to a power amp & cooks a speaker or 2 because sloppy workmanship.. One tweeter in 17 years.... Not so bad..... |
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