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Post by boomzilla on Nov 11, 2019 3:05:36 GMT -5
I have one of these coming for review. Curious to see how it works:
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Post by Gary Cook on Nov 11, 2019 15:56:01 GMT -5
For a while, I've been noticing that whenever my laser printer comes on in my computer room, the lights dim and my UPS always switches to battery mode for a few seconds. The computer room is sucking hind-teat on the whole house's electrical wiring system. So I decided to adapt. I moved the printer to my bedroom (on a circuit with virtually NOTHING else on it), and enabled wireless (after a massive battle with the printer). But in the end I persevered. The surprise from all this is that the first page from a cold printer has always been poorly fused and prone to smudging. Now (with a healthier power supply), the first page is (pardon the expression) "laser sharp." So if you have a laser, and the first page is poorly fused, consider getting closer to the house breaker. It made a difference for me. Boom You guys really do suffer from your 110 volt grid and 15 amp circuits (ie; 1650 watts), whereas much of the world is 240 volts and 10 amp circuits (ie; 2400 watts). Obviously it's too late to change an enormous grid, can't do it a bit at time, much like changing from driving on the wrong side of the road Cheers Gary
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Post by brubacca on Nov 11, 2019 17:57:59 GMT -5
I have one of these coming for review. Curious to see how it works: Looks like a tube buffer with tone controls??
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Post by boomzilla on Nov 12, 2019 4:55:41 GMT -5
Looks like a tube buffer with tone controls?? Tone control (singular). You can slightly adjust bass with one of the pots. The other is for "soundstage" adjustment. I've not read about how this is supposed to work. The only thing that tempted me to look at (listen to) this at all is that it's a Jim Fosgate design. He is traditionally known for well-engineered equipment that just simply works.
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Post by drtrey3 on Nov 12, 2019 8:49:31 GMT -5
And it has that cool display on top.
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Post by boomzilla on Nov 12, 2019 11:57:00 GMT -5
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Post by boomzilla on Nov 13, 2019 4:27:03 GMT -5
I'm going to switch to a "long interconnect, short speaker wires" configuration, just to clear some extra space on the equipment rack (getting the amps off the rack gives me room for other things). And my questions range as follows:
1. To wire or to bi-wire? - I'm tending toward the latter, even though it'll probably not make any difference. It's more a matter of convenience. If I single-wire, then I either have to use those sheet-metal jumpers at the speaker terminals or else use high-quality wire jumpers. Why not just run bi-wires and be done with it?
2. What AWG wire should I use? I've got 18, 16, 14, 12, and 10 available. For such short runs (about 2 feet), I'm thinking that even 14 is overkill.
3. To terminate or not to terminate? The purists among you will say that nothing beats bare wire, and I agree, technically. But my system remains in a state of constant change, and I never know when I'll need to swap wiring again. So I'm favoring the idea of high-quality, locking banana plugs for now (crimped, not soldered - shaken, not stirred).
4. Copper or silver? On a longer set of wires, economics would dictate. But for such a short pair...
Suggestions appreciated.
Boomzilla
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Post by adaboy on Nov 13, 2019 7:33:01 GMT -5
I have one of these coming for review. Curious to see how it works: I really enjoy mine! It's been in my office 2ch jolida rig and love how it allows you to tailor the Soundstage and bass. Looking forward to your review!
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Post by simpleman68 on Nov 13, 2019 8:11:57 GMT -5
I have one of these coming for review. Curious to see how it works: I think it's fun to try new toys and tweaks to see if it makes a difference for the better, or worse.
The only thing I realize is a problem is that through a series of adding things to my rig I have been able to get used to poor sound.
Once in a while I go back to a simple set up with all settings flat and I am the happiest as that is where the music sounds right to me. Scott
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Post by boomzilla on Nov 13, 2019 8:40:26 GMT -5
...The only thing I realize is a problem is that through a series of adding things to my rig I have been able to get used to poor sound. Once in a while I go back to a simple set up with all settings flat and I am the happiest as that is where the music sounds right to me. - Scott The best way to evaluate the sound of something is to take it out again. At that point, it's much easier to ask "better or worse?" That's one of the main reasons why I've been through so many preamps (present unit excepted). When I take them out, the improvement is startling!
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Post by Gary Cook on Nov 13, 2019 15:10:44 GMT -5
I'm going to switch to a "long interconnect, short speaker wires" configuration Cheers Gary
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Post by Gary Cook on Nov 13, 2019 15:15:05 GMT -5
Wire, 12 gauge, copper, bare, tin the tips only so it doesn’t fray, connections to the bare wire. I roll them into a hook shape, then tin the tips, makes it easy to R&R.
Cheers Gary
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Post by boomzilla on Nov 13, 2019 22:59:18 GMT -5
...through a series of adding things to my rig I have been able to get used to poor sound. - Scott Isn't THAT the truth! There's no such thing as a free lunch.
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Post by boomzilla on Nov 15, 2019 7:42:12 GMT -5
Well, the Fosgate / Jolida / Black-Ice SS-X is now in the signal chain. And, and, and...? Yes and no. The thing seems to bring "presence" to the music. Kind of like the Conrad-Johnson "Rock-N-Roll" tube preamp ( hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/amplifier/preamplifier/conrad-johnson-et3-tube-stereo-preamplifier-review/ )? Kind of like that, but not as extreme. That comment is with both control knobs at their "neutral" positions. If you narrow the "soundstage" knob, you get more bass (not what I expected). If you widen the same knob, you get reduced midrange (sounds like the singer is farther away). If you turn up the bass knob, you might get a touch more bass, but nothing noticeable. At least it doesn't sound bloated or tubby. The LED display on top of the thing is so cheesy it's painful. I do need to actually read the manual. All the above comments are from just playing around with it. I also committed the ultimate faux-pas of changing two things at once. I put my new Audio-gd DAC into the system at the same time I put in the Jolida box, so some of this may be from the DAC? I'll take both the Jolida and the DAC back out tomorrow, running the Oppo DAC instead. Once my ears are "recalibrated," then I'll put the Jolida in by itself. That'll be a fair test. Once the Jolida review is written, THEN I'll begin playing with the Audio-gd DAC again. Boom
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Post by simpleman68 on Nov 15, 2019 9:32:50 GMT -5
Well, the Fosgate / Jolida / Black-Ice SS-X is now in the signal chain. And, and, and...? Yes and no. The thing seems to bring "presence" to the music. Kind of like the Conrad-Johnson "Rock-N-Roll" tube preamp ( hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/amplifier/preamplifier/conrad-johnson-et3-tube-stereo-preamplifier-review/ )? Kind of like that, but not as extreme. That comment is with both control knobs at their "neutral" positions. If you narrow the "soundstage" knob, you get more bass (not what I expected). If you widen the same knob, you get reduced midrange (sounds like the singer is farther away). If you turn up the bass knob, you might get a touch more bass, but nothing noticeable. At least it doesn't sound bloated or tubby. The LED display on top of the thing is so cheesy it's painful. I do need to actually read the manual. All the above comments are from just playing around with it. I also committed the ultimate faux-pas of changing two things at once. I put my new Audio-gd DAC into the system at the same time I put in the Jolida box, so some of this may be from the DAC? I'll take both the Jolida and the DAC back out tomorrow, running the Oppo DAC instead. Once my ears are "recalibrated," then I'll put the Jolida in by itself. That'll be a fair test. Once the Jolida review is written, THEN I'll begin playing with the Audio-gd DAC again. Boom Thanks for your input on this piece.
One thing I'd add; you may need to readjust toe in/out (probably out) when using some of the settings that may mimic what tubes normally do.
After putting the Schiit tube pre in, I had to toe my speakers out as the stage had somewhat collapsed. Just an inch and a half and the magic returned. Scott
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on Nov 15, 2019 11:10:19 GMT -5
From their more detailed description it actually combines three separate things.... Any or all of which might produce a pleasant effect in some situations....
1)
It's a tube buffer - which adds second harmonic distortion for that "tube sound".
Oddly, while they claim "low distortion", the only spec they give is 1% THD at 20V output level.
2) It's got a Bass EQ control which can boost (and maybe cut) the bass 3) It's got a "wideness" control. When you set that to "narrower" it reduces the channel separation (it adds some left to the right channel; and adds some right to the left channel). When you set it to "wider" it artificially boosts the separation by subtracting (it adds some MINUS left to the right channel; and adds some MINUS right to the left channel). This makes the left and right channels seem "wider apart" and reduces the level of anything that appears "stage center".
(It's also usually going to reduce the Bass level because, in most recordings, the low bass is mostly mixed into the center.) (They could have made the mixing/subtracting frequency selective, but probably not.)
In short, it's an "effects box" or "coloration box", with a pretty good set of "tint controls". (Note, of course, that everything it does adds coloration in the service of "sounding nice".) I should also point out that the description provided for it in Music Direct has one or two really comical technical faux-pas....
(And, since it is being touted as a buffer, they really should have included at least the input impedance and output impedance.) And, yes, I would absolutely try and keep your opinions and conclusions about this and your new Audio G*D DAC separate as much as possible. In general, Audio G*D makes good quality gear, which can deliver sound that is quite low in coloration and distortion. (I've owned several of their DACs - and they were quite nice.)
Whereas the little Jolida box is the exact opposite of that; it is designed to deliberately add several different "interesting sorts of coloration". I would even suggest specifically REMOVING the Jolida box from the system when reviewing other components.
(The coloration it adds is bound to affect other things... and may well mask or exaggerate the sonic characteristics of other components.) I have one of these coming for review. Curious to see how it works: Looks like a tube buffer with tone controls??
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on Nov 15, 2019 11:38:57 GMT -5
It actually has virtually nothing to do with "the grid".... as those voltages are determined by the individual pole-mounted transformers that feed each house or group of houses.
(The voltage that is used to distribute the power to the transformers, which is on the actual power grid itself, is much higher... often in the 3 kV to 5 kV range.)
Most homes in the US are actually wired for both 115 VAC and 230 VAC. In most homes, a 230 VAC center-tapped circuit comes into the house; and is then split into two 115 VAC phases for some of the circuits.
It's just a matter of "convention" that most of our "regular small appliances" operate from 115 VAC circuits...
While most electric clothes driers, and most wired-in central AC units and electric heaters, use a 230 VAC circuit.
Therefore in most residential homes, the majority of outlets are wired for 115 VAC, with only a few special 230 VAC outlets provided for "driers and heaters".
However, both voltages are available at the circuit breaker panel, and new circuits can just as easily be wired for one as for the other.
For a while, I've been noticing that whenever my laser printer comes on in my computer room, the lights dim and my UPS always switches to battery mode for a few seconds. The computer room is sucking hind-teat on the whole house's electrical wiring system. So I decided to adapt. I moved the printer to my bedroom (on a circuit with virtually NOTHING else on it), and enabled wireless (after a massive battle with the printer). But in the end I persevered. The surprise from all this is that the first page from a cold printer has always been poorly fused and prone to smudging. Now (with a healthier power supply), the first page is (pardon the expression) "laser sharp." So if you have a laser, and the first page is poorly fused, consider getting closer to the house breaker. It made a difference for me. Boom You guys really do suffer from your 110 volt grid and 15 amp circuits (ie; 1650 watts), whereas much of the world is 240 volts and 10 amp circuits (ie; 2400 watts). Obviously it's too late to change an enormous grid, can't do it a bit at time, much like changing from driving on the wrong side of the road Cheers Gary
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 9,929
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Post by KeithL on Nov 15, 2019 11:58:11 GMT -5
1)
Bi-wiring offers very little to no performance advantage in and of itself (two pairs of 16 gauge wires is roughly equivalent to a single pair of 14 gauge wires). However, if you're running wires inside the walls, there may be a few benefits. You're running two thinner pairs or wire, which will be lighter, physically thinner, and more flexible and easier to thread through holes and such. You have spares, so you can decide to use the two wires separately if you need more channels later, or if one gets damaged somehow.
2) Electrically, for two feet, even 18 gauge would probably work fine. However, it's usually better to stick with 16 gauge or 14 gauge for everything (wire doesn't cost much and there's no real down-side to using a heavier wire than you need).
3) I would agree. Bare wire is probably the best. And you avoid the possibility of loose or poorly crimped plugs... and of having to replace banana plugs that become broken or damaged. However, bare wire is more trouble, and you have to be careful of things like stray strands escaping from the terminals and touching something they shouldn't.
If you frequently rearrange things, banana plugs have lots of advantages, and the disadvantages aren't very serious..
4) Electrically there is no benefit whatsoever for using silver wire at audio frequencies. Silver is about 5% better than copper as a conductor; which is not significant. A 14 gauge silver wire is 5% better than a 14 gauge copper wire, but a 12 gauge copper wire has much lower resistance than a 14 gauge silver wire (and is a LOT cheaper). Silver is for jewelry... both the kind you wear and the kind you connect to your audio system.
I'm going to switch to a "long interconnect, short speaker wires" configuration, just to clear some extra space on the equipment rack (getting the amps off the rack gives me room for other things). And my questions range as follows: 1. To wire or to bi-wire? - I'm tending toward the latter, even though it'll probably not make any difference. It's more a matter of convenience. If I single-wire, then I either have to use those sheet-metal jumpers at the speaker terminals or else use high-quality wire jumpers. Why not just run bi-wires and be done with it? 2. What AWG wire should I use? I've got 18, 16, 14, 12, and 10 available. For such short runs (about 2 feet), I'm thinking that even 14 is overkill. 3. To terminate or not to terminate? The purists among you will say that nothing beats bare wire, and I agree, technically. But my system remains in a state of constant change, and I never know when I'll need to swap wiring again. So I'm favoring the idea of high-quality, locking banana plugs for now (crimped, not soldered - shaken, not stirred). 4. Copper or silver? On a longer set of wires, economics would dictate. But for such a short pair... Suggestions appreciated. Boomzilla
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 9,929
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Post by KeithL on Nov 15, 2019 12:00:37 GMT -5
Didn't I see that very same display on an old rerun of Wonder Woman? (On top of the space ship the "alien mind-stealer" arrived on Earth in.)
And it has that cool display on top.
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Post by boomzilla on Nov 15, 2019 12:59:48 GMT -5
Unless Wonder Woman came with the device, the display alone is enough to prevent me from ever purchasing one...
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