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Post by redog on Jul 7, 2014 17:07:55 GMT -5
Xls has a 103db noise floor. I use one for my mains and it's dead silent
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Post by blindsay on Jul 7, 2014 17:08:05 GMT -5
I agree - but perhaps more emphatically. A subwoofer amp is designed to deliver lots of power into very low impedance loads; it also doesn't have to handle full range signals, and its full-audio-band S/N isn't terribly important (because a sub won't be reproducing 10 kHz hiss anyway). In short, you can almost certainly buy a subwoofer amp that will put out more power into very low impedance loads, and will sound every bit as good as an XPA-1 for running a sub, for far less money. (I would suggest a nice, cheap, cool running Class D panel amp... ) The XPA-1 will have no trouble with a 3ohm load. Your breakers might so i would run the amp at 240V if you are going to so that. But the XPA-1 would not be my first choice for a sub amp. Lots of more efficient designs out there for that kind of work. Leave the XPA-1 to drive full range low impedance panels. That is its real purpose. Any suggestions for a good amp? On a side note maybe Emotiva should make a sub specific amp, hint hint
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Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2014 19:44:51 GMT -5
I did a fan swap in my ep4000 it runs cool and silent powering my two 18's. Its cheap and extremely easy to do.
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Post by leonski on Jul 10, 2014 14:17:42 GMT -5
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Post by blindsay on Jul 14, 2014 5:55:29 GMT -5
doesnt look like it goes below 4ohm though?
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Post by leonski on Jul 14, 2014 11:19:18 GMT -5
2 ohms is either auto amp territory OR Apogee Scintilla, a Notorious amp killer of a speaker dropping to 1 ohm at spots.
Now, any data on the desired driver? REAL impedance curve so you know how much of the range you need is below 4 ohms? Also, don't forget, these 'ratings' are NOT brick wall. A 4ohm rated amp doesn't go up in smoke at 3.9 ohms. Even my old 'd' amp using B&O ICE modules was power rated to 4 ohms, but the data sheet said it was OK to something like 2.7 ohms.
Also, don't forget that if you have an amp, you still need BASS MANAGEMENT to apportion of the frequencies. My current preamp, for example, is set to prevent frequencies below 60 or 80 hz from reaching the 'main' speakers. The crossover slope is 12db / octave. You will also need a HIGH PASS filter so the sub doesn't see frequencies above those desired. Subs begin to get 'directional' at higher frequencies. That's why the 'standard' is 80hz. And why most people will recommend a 'plate amp' for sub duty.
Hypex is the real deal and NOT some fly by night. I've spoken with the designer of the amp module, Bruno Putzeys, who is not only a real nice guy but KNOWS his stuff better than most.
The ONLY fly in the 'd' amp ointment is that they are NOT rated 'long term' power output. They simply do NOT have enough heat sink. This is even though the advertised 'efficiency' is very high. Even 'd' amps can get hot and need proper ventilation.
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Post by ausman on Jul 19, 2014 22:41:49 GMT -5
my opinion if you are looking in to 1-2 ohm constant territory better to look at monoblock designed to run on the format and commercial cinema sized room to use it in
in a home not a good idea..
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Post by leonski on Jul 22, 2014 1:54:06 GMT -5
1 and 2 ohm loudspeakers are a FINE example of Speaker Designers and Amplifier Designers NOT even speaking the SAME language.
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Post by blindsay on Jul 22, 2014 10:10:38 GMT -5
The subwoofer is 3 ohm nominal
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Post by leonski on Jul 23, 2014 10:16:04 GMT -5
Here is the DataSheet for the B&O ICE amp, the ASP500. This is NOT current series but was used by PSAudio, Bel Canto, Wyred 4Sound and many others. In it you'll see the amp output is good to 2 ohms, by THEIR claim. Will it be happy doing that? I doubt it, but it's on the table. Heat sink becomes an issue as do time limits at max power. www.icepower.bang-olufsen.com/files/solutions/icepower500aspdata.pdf
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