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Post by Gary Cook on Feb 22, 2015 18:05:23 GMT -5
And Gary, Magnepan might agree with you more than you know. The current x.7 series speakers have deleted the biamp/wire provision ONE set of speaker power inputs is all you now get! I don't know about the tweeter resistor jumper which has been a feature of some models for 20 years. But now, if you want to biamp your panels, it'll require some serious mods and a rewire job. They're not the only ones, I've noticed that it's a bit of trend over the last couple of years. Edward, the guy whose speakers I use, expressed the thought that it might be warranty related. Too many claims due to poor implementation of bi amping by amateurs not knowing what they are doing. Cheers Gary
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Post by leonski on Feb 23, 2015 4:24:26 GMT -5
I think the guys that get in REAL trouble are those who 'improvise' too much. Your buddy with the Mac275 over a CROWN? Crazy. And the difference in Damping Factor may have played into it as well. The '275 has a fairly low DF while the crown, a high feedback design is probably >250, even WITH real work speaker wire. The MC275 was made in 3 or 4 versions, which differ somewhat. The later ones have a DF of 10 or greater. I'd need to know more, starting with the proposed crossover frequencies and slopes. I see what you mean about warranty claims, but have trouble believing that a speaker manufacturer would 'fall for it' since missuse and such is out of there control. No matter how well written the directions.
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Post by Gary Cook on Feb 23, 2015 19:21:16 GMT -5
I think the guys that get in REAL trouble are those who 'improvise' too much. Your buddy with the Mac275 over a CROWN? Crazy. And the difference in Damping Factor may have played into it as well. The '275 has a fairly low DF while the crown, a high feedback design is probably >250, even WITH real work speaker wire. The MC275 was made in 3 or 4 versions, which differ somewhat. The later ones have a DF of 10 or greater. I'd need to know more, starting with the proposed crossover frequencies and slopes. I see what you mean about warranty claims, but have trouble believing that a speaker manufacturer would 'fall for it' since missuse and such is out of there control. No matter how well written the directions. It was what he had available, the McIntosh was his long time home stereo amp and the Crown was his professional amp (he was a muso). My experience has been that most bi ampers start off using what they have lying around. A quick read of the bi amping threads on here shows exactly the same trend. After all it was simply a suck it and see exercise, I told him it wouldn't work but he wanted to try it anyway. We quickly moved on. Speaker manufacturers, with the simple action of removing the ability to bi amp, may well believe that it helps with their warranty claims. It's a lot easier to reject a warranty claim if a speaker that wasn't designed for bi amping has been bi amped. Compared to proving that a bi amp capable speaker was incorrectly bi amped. Cheers Gary
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Post by leonski on Feb 23, 2015 20:22:54 GMT -5
Cutting into a speaker, removing the crossover and installing a line level crossover with amp connections direct to the drivers is a CLEAR violation of any warranty claim. If somebody hooks up a pair of random amps, I'd be sorry to hear that, as a manufacturer, but offer NO warranty of suitability with ANY biamp setup.
How somebody ends up with BOTH a MC275 and CROWN is another story for another day.
My understanding of Biamp led me down a good path. MATCHING amps for a start, and speakers with a crossover point near enough to the 50:50 power distribution point as to make things easy. For a FIRST PASS attempt. I think most of the 'advice' given is marginal at best and sometimes simply wacky. At least as far as biamping goes.
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Post by garbulky on Feb 24, 2015 10:32:40 GMT -5
leonski : I think I'll have to agree with you on matching amps. They do appear to have a sound signature that tends to make a difference around the crossover point. Interesting.
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