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Post by Chuck Elliot on Apr 26, 2016 14:52:33 GMT -5
In connecting my new trigger box, I noticed something strange.
The trigger box is controlling 3 power amps: UPA-2; UPA-500; XPA-5 GEN2.
The trigger box has a 7 second delay between the turn-on of each power amp.
XMC-1 -> 7sec -> UPA-500 -> 7sec -> UPA-2 -> 7sec -> XPA-5
The UPA-500 has a sufficient turn-on in-rush to trip the UPS on my computer system. Even the XPA-5 doesn’t do this!
The UPA-500 works fine, but I’m worried about a pending flaw.
I know I need to do a couple of separate 20A drops at some point.
Thoughts?
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geebo
Emo VIPs 
"Too bad that all the people who know how to run the country are driving taxicabs and cutting hair"
Posts: 24,181
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Post by geebo on Apr 26, 2016 15:04:11 GMT -5
In connecting my new trigger box, I noticed something strange. The trigger box is controlling 3 power amps: UPA-2; UPA-500; XPA-5 GEN2. The trigger box has a 7 second delay between the turn-on of each power amp. XMC-1 -> 7sec -> UPA-500 -> 7sec -> UPA-2 -> 7sec -> XPA-5 The UPA-500 has a sufficient turn-on in-rush to trip the UPS on my computer system. Even the XPA-5 doesn’t do this! The UPA-500 works fine, but I’m worried about a pending flaw. I know I need to do a couple of separate 20A drops at some point. Thoughts? Does it trip the breaker at the main box when plugged directly into the wall? My son has a UPA-500 and has never popped a breaker that I know of. |
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Post by boomzilla on Apr 26, 2016 16:56:18 GMT -5
Add a "soft turn on" device?
The last one I made routed current through the light bulb filament & through a relay. So long as the current draw was high, the relay was held open. Once the current dropped, the relay connected the source to the load directly. Simple, cheap, and worked perfectly.
The amp shouldn't be tripping the UPS breaker.
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Apr 26, 2016 19:39:47 GMT -5
UPA-500 has never tripped the main breaks. UPS just reports electrical noise.
Boom: I may try the light bulb circuit. If the UPA-500 will come up far enough to turn the trigger out on of the UPA-500 itself, I could use it with a relay to take the bulb out of the circuit!
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Post by DavidR on Apr 26, 2016 20:17:08 GMT -5
I have one of those UPS on our desktop computer. Its very touchy. The slightest blip and it trips.
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Post by Jim on Apr 26, 2016 20:32:45 GMT -5
What kind of UPS?
You can adjust the sensitivity of APC units normally.
I have noticed that the level of current inrush is different in different Emo amps. (Which I expect - very different capacitances)
What's the exact message the UPS reports? Does it say "noise" or something ambiguous like "disturbance"?
I suspect it's a sub-second undervoltage when the amp turns on. If I have a light on a semi-loaded 15A circuit - I'll get a flicker when I turn on a XPA-1 for example.
Do you have a DMM handy? Maybe you could see how much inrush current you're talking about?
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Apr 26, 2016 21:04:51 GMT -5
What kind of UPS? You can adjust the sensitivity of APC units normally. I have noticed that the level of current inrush is different in different Emo amps. (Which I expect - very different capacitances) What's the exact message the UPS reports? Does it say "noise" or something ambiguous like "disturbance"? I suspect it's a sub-second undervoltage when the amp turns on. If I have a light on a semi-loaded 15A circuit - I'll get a flicker when I turn on a XPA-1 for example. Do you have a DMM handy? Maybe you could see how much inrush current you're talking about? Adjusting the Powerchute noise sensitivity from High to Medium fixed the issue = Thanks! |
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Post by Jim on Apr 26, 2016 21:06:10 GMT -5
Cool! Glad that helped!
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Post by vcautokid on Apr 27, 2016 7:55:52 GMT -5
Probably not a great idea to plug your power amp into a UPS if connected at the same time as a computer especially. Potentially UPS devices can be current limiting devices. The last thing your amplifier wants. Also, a computer is at times a high draw device as well. A better solution if possible is a different circuit and some line filtering if necessary and you would be golden. IMHO.
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Apr 27, 2016 8:48:57 GMT -5
Probably not a great idea to plug your power amp into a UPS if connected at the same time as a computer especially. Potentially UPS devices can be current limiting devices. The last thing your amplifier wants. Also, a computer is at times a high draw device as well. A better solution if possible is a different circuit and some line filtering if necessary and you would be golden. IMHO. The UPS is on my computer, NOT my HT! |
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Post by vcautokid on Apr 27, 2016 13:07:10 GMT -5
Ok sorry my bad.
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Post by leonski on Apr 30, 2016 22:02:55 GMT -5
WHY connect an amp thru a UPS in the FIRST place? I've personally NEVER had any luck with running an amp even thru my 1500$ (list) Panamax High Current outlets. The amp just never quite sounds 'right'.
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Post by leonski on Apr 30, 2016 22:04:22 GMT -5
And by ALL MEANS, get a Kill-A-Watt meter and take a few measurments.
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Post by DavidR on Apr 30, 2016 22:50:51 GMT -5
WHY connect an amp thru a UPS in the FIRST place? I've personally NEVER had any luck with running an amp even thru my 1500$ (list) Panamax High Current outlets. The amp just never quite sounds 'right'. It wasn't. It must have been on the same leg; not necessarily the same circuit.. They are touchy - get a slight dip in volts/current and they will trip. |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Apr 30, 2016 22:51:01 GMT -5
WHY connect an amp thru a UPS in the FIRST place? I've personally NEVER had any luck with running an amp even thru my 1500$ (list) Panamax High Current outlets. The amp just never quite sounds 'right'. Read 2 posts above your comment! The UPS is on my computer, NOT my HT! |
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Post by leonski on May 1, 2016 0:34:22 GMT -5
Good. Sorry I misunderstood your FIRST post. So, turning on the amp kicked the computer off? Kooky.
Still and all, get the Kill-A-Watt. It's not quick enough for such a turn on transient but is cheap and WILL show you running current of the connected device as well as the voltage drop associated with it. One thing most people are NOT familiar with is the Power Factor. This is essentially a measure of 'goodness of load'. Power transformers are very inductive and can cause problems with the line to the amp. What happens is that VOLTAGE and CURRENT no longer 'rise and fall' together. So, while your amp is using AMPS and VOLTS = power in watts, which is what you get billed for, it really uses VA whichis a measure of the true power which takes into account the phase angle of the current and voltage.
I'd be curious at the very least.
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