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Post by petew on Apr 12, 2017 20:58:17 GMT -5
Ditto. Solved my wireless problems for about $400
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jlafrenz
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Post by jlafrenz on Apr 12, 2017 21:25:50 GMT -5
If you must pull pre-terminated lines then the easiest thing to do is overlap your fish stick (or tape) and start at the end of the stick and work towards the termination. As you transition from the termination to the stick make a few more wraps and try and create a taper from the termination to the stick. Instead of cutting the tape, simply twist it a couple of times and pull the roll off from it. This leaves a little tab that is easy to grab an unwrap the cable from the fish stick.
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Apr 12, 2017 21:37:50 GMT -5
If you must pull pre-terminated lines then the easiest thing to do is overlap your fish stick (or tape) and start at the end of the stick and work towards the termination. As you transition from the termination to the stick make a few more wraps and try and create a taper from the termination to the stick. Instead of cutting the tape, simply twist it a couple of times and pull the roll off from it. This leaves a little tab that is easy to grab an unwrap the cable from the fish stick. Honestly...with all due respect...you make it sound harder than it is. It is really, really easy unless you drill a hole barely bigger than the terminated end. And, if one can get a drill into position, there is really no need to skimp on hole size. None at all. If you want to seal the excess hole, use some spray foam to seal and insulate the hole. Easy. And, yeah, you can create a tab via various approaches, but if you use the grocery bag trick I noted and masking tape, it protects the ends and is so easy to take off, it isn't even worth a special taping approach. Tear it off and...done. Mark
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jlafrenz
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Post by jlafrenz on Apr 12, 2017 21:53:40 GMT -5
If you must pull pre-terminated lines then the easiest thing to do is overlap your fish stick (or tape) and start at the end of the stick and work towards the termination. As you transition from the termination to the stick make a few more wraps and try and create a taper from the termination to the stick. Instead of cutting the tape, simply twist it a couple of times and pull the roll off from it. This leaves a little tab that is easy to grab an unwrap the cable from the fish stick. Honestly...with all due respect...you make it sound harder than it is. It is really, really easy unless you drill a hole barely bigger than the terminated end. And, if one can get a drill into position, there is really no need to skimp on hole size. None at all. If you want to seal the excess hole, use some spray foam to seal and insulate the hole. Easy. And, yeah, you can create a tab via various approaches, but if you use the grocery bag trick I noted and masking tape, it protects the ends and is so easy to take off, it isn't even worth a special taping approach. Tear it off and...done. Mark My approach isn't hard at all. I was just trying to describe the method that I use in detail since there is no visual reference. Taping the way I am talking about only takes a few seconds and you are simply tearing off the electrical tape after a couple of quick twists. I don't see the need for a grocery bag or similar when I can accomplish the same thing with the tape that I am going to need anyway. Electrical tape won't damage the ends. My personal preference is to pull un-terminated wires to the appropriate length and then cut and fit in these type of situations. It does not mean that it is the only way to approach the situation. Sure you can pull terminated wires through a big enough hole. You can even pull multiple if you stagger them. With pre-terminated wires, it would just suck to make a pull through an attic and find that you are a FT short or try and stuff 10ft back into the wall.
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Post by pknaz on Apr 12, 2017 21:59:37 GMT -5
Okay, my first really stupid question is for you pknaz . A guy at work and I tried to do 10 minutes of research on this. Let me see if I have this straight. In a minimalistic home wireless system there are basically 3 things. Modem Router Wireless Access Point When you get a device from the cable company, it's typically one device that has all 3 units in one, and is called a modem/wireless router. Kind of like having a Receiver in a stereo instead of separates? And then having them all separate would be like buying a pre-amp, a DAC, and an amp in a stereo system. Is this right? I'm trying to understand the difference between an access point and a wireless router. Someone already answered this, but I'll basically say the same thing. Your analogy is pretty much spot on. I like having separate devices. I purchased my own Modem (For cable companies, it is hard to go wrong with a Motorola surfboard). I did this for two reasons: 1) the Surfboards are usually much better modems than what the cable company provides, and 2) it payed for itself in just over 13 months by not paying the rental costs of the device. I have a pretty elaborate home network, so I'm probably an outlier here, but before I did, I still preferred a robust router that allowed me to do things like: - Configure priority bandwidth to certain devices in my house
- Run high quality firewall/intrusion prevention software on the router
- Manage my own DHCP/DNS
For routers, check out pfsense (<- clickable) (a bit pricey, but excellent products), TP-link (<- clickable), and Ubiquity (<- clickable) Having my own Access points allowed me to centralize my access points where they provided the best coverage, rather than putting them next to where the cable enters the house. I looked at your house diagram, if I lived in your house, I'd pull 3 wires, total: - One to your stereo rack
- One to your secondary TV
- One to the lounge room in the center of the house (in the ceiling)
I'd then mount a wireless access point on the ceiling, centrally located in your house. This serves two purposes: - Provides even wireless coverage all over your house
- Limits the coverage outside for people to poke around
In your stereo cabinet, I'd put a 1Gbps switch, connected to all of your equipment as well as to the wire you run from your back office room where your modem/router is located At your secondary TV, if you only need one network connection there, then no switch needed. if you need more network ports, I'd get a cheap switch, doesn't need to be 1Gbps.
In your scenario, having multiple switches like that will have no impact on the speed of your network.
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Post by pknaz on Apr 12, 2017 22:06:40 GMT -5
I would not pull pre-terminated wire, it is a royal P.I.T.A fishing through walls. Keystone jacks are ridiculously easy to terminate, watch a 7 minute YouTube video on it, you'll thank me later This video talks about a Cat6 keystone jack, but the process is EXACTLY the same for Cat5 and Cat5e www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xkbz-uywLJs
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Apr 13, 2017 4:49:34 GMT -5
Honestly...with all due respect...you make it sound harder than it is. It is really, really easy unless you drill a hole barely bigger than the terminated end. And, if one can get a drill into position, there is really no need to skimp on hole size. None at all. If you want to seal the excess hole, use some spray foam to seal and insulate the hole. Easy. And, yeah, you can create a tab via various approaches, but if you use the grocery bag trick I noted and masking tape, it protects the ends and is so easy to take off, it isn't even worth a special taping approach. Tear it off and...done. Mark My approach isn't hard at all. I was just trying to describe the method that I use in detail since there is no visual reference. Taping the way I am talking about only takes a few seconds and you are simply tearing off the electrical tape after a couple of quick twists. I don't see the need for a grocery bag or similar when I can accomplish the same thing with the tape that I am going to need anyway. Electrical tape won't damage the ends. My personal preference is to pull un-terminated wires to the appropriate length and then cut and fit in these type of situations. It does not mean that it is the only way to approach the situation. Sure you can pull terminated wires through a big enough hole. You can even pull multiple if you stagger them. With pre-terminated wires, it would just suck to make a pull through an attic and find that you are a FT short or try and stuff 10ft back into the wall. I use the bag more to protect the connector from anything inside the wall...insulation, sawdust, etc...just to make sure nothing gets onto/into the tiny 'pin' parts. It also reduces any risk of snagging. As for lengths, estimating right lengths is easy...never fell short yet. Mark
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Post by Bonzo on Apr 13, 2017 8:44:01 GMT -5
Wow guys, go away one night and have lots of posts to read! Thanks. Unfortunately I'm going to not read them right now because that work project I had yesterday that got put on hold is now back off hold and due by the end of the day today! UGH. I don't even want to get started reading or I'll get side tracked. So thanks, and I promise I'll get back with you all in short order as soon as I can.
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Post by Bonzo on Apr 19, 2017 11:34:04 GMT -5
Okay, I've read the posts now and am anxious to reply to everyone, BUT still busy here at work. Just taking a quick lunch now. I will do so soon, hopefully later today or maybe tomorrow.
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Post by Bonzo on Aug 4, 2017 17:50:38 GMT -5
I just wanted to chime in here and tell everyone who has been helping me that I haven't forgotten you all or to reply, and I greatly appreciate all your input. Its just that nothing has progressed due to other circumstances going on in my life. I had hoped to have this long done but now I'm just hoping to get it accomplished sometime next winter while its cold outside and the attic isnt a sauna. I think its going to become part or our kitchen remodel so we'll see. Amazing anymore how time flys yet I never seem to get anywhere with projects. Anyway, thanks again and I'll be back on this thread to fill things in just as soon as something gets moving.
Cheers --- Bonzo
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Post by audiobill on Aug 4, 2017 18:25:55 GMT -5
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Post by Bonzo on Mar 4, 2019 13:28:01 GMT -5
So I'm digging up this old thread to let everyone know I FINALLY got around to doing all this. In the end I decided to have it done by some professionals and wow am I glad I did. They were in the attic for quite a long time so I'm glad I didn't try to do it myself. I'm too old and sore (peripheral neuropathy) for the physical demands of walking around on ceiling joists. - Reran the internet coax to the pantry (more central location) - Ran 3 Cat-6 lines to the office - Ran 2 Cat-6 lines to the kitchen/dining TV - Ran 1 Cat-6 line to the kitchen desk - Ran 6 Cat-6 lines to the back of the stereo rack 500 ft of Cat-6 in all. - Reran new 12 gauge speaker wire to all 6 wall surround speakers (300 feet total) - Ran old 16 gauge speaker wire to all 6 new ceiling speakers. - Installed 6 new ceiling speakers Here's what I learned. Cat-6 Keystones are hard to wire. I can see how they would become not too bad with some practice, but for a first timer like me, it was a pain. What was even more of a pain was terminating the RJ45 ends that will plug into a switch. That took some practice, some doing, and sore hands afterwards. I'm glad I don't have to do those on a regular basis. So I'm now ready to redo things at the stereo rack end, but it's going to have to wait. Life has gotten in the way again. Sigh. Anyone got any recommendations for a switch? I've done some internet searching and it looks like I might want 24 ports, un-managed, with POE. Does that make sense? Ceiling Speaker Pantry Wires Behind Stereo Rack Behind Stereo Rack Finished
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novisnick
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Post by novisnick on Mar 4, 2019 13:51:08 GMT -5
So I'm digging up this old thread to let everyone know I FINALLY got around to doing all this. In the end I decided to have it done by some professionals and wow am I glad I did. They were in the attic for quite a long time so I'm glad I didn't try to do it myself. I'm too old and sore (peripheral neuropathy) for the physical demands of walking around on ceiling joists. - Reran the internet coax to the pantry (more central location) - Ran 3 Cat-6 lines to the office - Ran 2 Cat-6 lines to the kitchen/dining TV - Ran 1 Cat-6 line to the kitchen desk - Ran 6 Cat-6 lines to the back of the stereo rack 500 ft of Cat-6 in all. - Reran new 12 gauge speaker wire to all 6 wall surround speakers (300 feet total) - Ran old 16 gauge speaker wire to all 6 new ceiling speakers. - Installed 6 new ceiling speakers Here's what I learned. Cat-6 Keystones are hard to wire. I can see how they would become not too bad with some practice, but for a first timer like me, it was a pain. What was even more of a pain was terminating the RJ45 ends that will plug into a switch. That took some practice, some doing, and sore hands afterwards. I'm glad I don't have to do those on a regular basis. So I'm now ready to redo things at the stereo rack end, but it's going to have to wait. Life has gotten in the way again. Sigh. Anyone got any recommendations for a switch? I've done some internet searching and it looks like I might want 24 ports, un-managed, with POE. Does that make sense? Ceiling Speaker Pantry Wires Behind Stereo Rack Behind Stereo Rack Finished Having purchased the BB total package or whatever it’s called at a discount I had them install the ceiling speakers in my cave. Two men worked three hours just to get them installed an tidied up was $79. . I would have gladly payed $200. And been happy doing so after seeing everything that needed to be done. The HVC is directly above my cave. Sounds great too!
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Post by creimes on Mar 4, 2019 14:28:37 GMT -5
POE if you plan on POE WIFI access points and/or security cameras that use POE otherwise it's money you wouldn't have to spend, I just use a standard 8 port D-Link gigabit switch in my home.
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Post by Loop 7 on Mar 4, 2019 14:45:15 GMT -5
I went with mesh wifi and it's been trouble free for over a year.
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Post by creimes on Mar 4, 2019 14:57:32 GMT -5
I went with mesh wifi and it's been trouble free for over a year. That's something we are offering our customers now, whole home wifi for $5 a month, we install up to 6 Plume Pods for that price, works well from the few times I have installed them, we just started selling the service.
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Post by Bonzo on Mar 4, 2019 15:24:54 GMT -5
POE if you plan on POE WIFI access points and/or security cameras that use POE otherwise it's money you wouldn't have to spend, I just use a standard 8 port D-Link gigabit switch in my home. I'm trying to future proof myself a bit. As it sits, I will immediately tie up 12 switch ports, so I want room for expansion. I could go 16, but I'm also thinking POE due to exactly what you said, cameras. And I haven't nailed down yet whether I want to use a straight router with WAPs, or just get a strong wifi router and be done. The WAP route would need POE.
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Mar 4, 2019 15:30:47 GMT -5
I have ASUS (5 port) and Netgear (8 port) gigabit switches. Neither is POE, but they have been rock solid. In any case, why 24 port? It seems like prices go up out of proportion to # of ports, and you only have 12 lines total going out from your source.
I presume you will have ports on your router/cable modem you can use also. I do...and I use those to feed 3 of my other wall outlets. And one of those feeds the 5 port switch near my main AV setup. The 4th line out of my router feeds a switch which feeds 8 more outlets around the house.
In your case, it looks like you could have a router with 4 ports, 3 of the ports could feed 3 lines out (such as to your office). 1 could feed a 12 port switch that fed the remaining 9 lines to your kitchen and AV system. And, that's all you need (unlesss you have plans for other things that are not listed in your system so far.
Mark
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Post by Bonzo on Mar 4, 2019 15:33:02 GMT -5
Having purchased the BB total package or whatever it’s called at a discount I had them install the ceiling speakers in my cave. Two men worked three hours just to get them installed an tidied up was $79. . I would have gladly payed $200. And been happy doing so after seeing everything that needed to be done. The HVC is directly above my cave. Sounds great too! What? $79 dollars? 2 guys for 3 hours = 6 hours total. That's only $13.17 an hour. Unskilled child labor. So what kind of sexual favors did you and/or your wife provide those young underage boys? I didn't get that kind of deal. 2 guys were at my house for like 6-1/2 to 7 hours with no breaks. $750 plus tax = $806.25
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Post by Bonzo on Mar 4, 2019 15:53:34 GMT -5
I have ASUS (5 port) and Netgear (8 port) gigabit switches. Neither is POE, but they have been rock solid. In any case, why 24 port? It seems like prices go up out of proportion to # of ports, and you only have 12 lines total going out from your source. I presume you will have ports on your router/cable modem you can use also. I do...and I use those to feed 3 of my other wall outlets. And one of those feeds the 5 port switch near my main AV setup. The 4th line out of my router feeds a switch which feeds 8 more outlets around the house. In your case, it looks like you could have a router with 4 ports, 3 of the ports could feed 3 lines out (such as to your office). 1 could feed a 12 port switch that fed the remaining 9 lines to your kitchen and AV system. And, that's all you need (unlesss you have plans for other things that are not listed in your system so far. Mark Well that's why I'm talking out loud here and tossing around ideas and haven't bought one yet. To get good advice from you folks who know more than I do about this stuff. What I decided was this. I could have ran 1 wire to each location from a central switch then put switches at each end. But since the wire was cheap (like $65 at Monoprice for the 500 feet), I figured while they were running 1 wire I might as well have them run multiples and be future safe. I can always add switches if necessary from there. But for what I have now, I'm covered. Yeah, 12 would cover me now. And you are right, I would pick up 3 extra with a router (since they usually have 4). But if I decide to go the WAP route, I would need 3 of those I think. And I'm also thinking about putting in some cameras, of which I would need at least 4. So that's 19 ports. I could do that with a 16 port and a router, or a 24 port. But, for my needs, I'm really thinking that instead of WAPs, I might just get a strong wifi router and be done there. So it would be a matter of having room for cameras. I could do a 12 port switch for now and buy another smaller one later if I do cameras, or I could buy a 16 port switch now and be done. Decisions decisions. Oh, and don't forget who you are talking to here. I am the KING of wanting more inputs. There is enough proof of that in the XMC and RMC threads to last a lifetime.
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