It you put your ear up to each speaker driver as it plays and it sounds fine, then all is good. You could also run some test tones of various frequencies through the system to get a constant sound. If both left and right sound the same, all is good. There are plenty you can download.
XMC-1 DIRAC Full; Oppo 105/Spectrum Cable to Panny AE4000 w/106" screen; UltraRendu to LH Labs Geek Pulse X-Infinity; nCore nc400's or Prima Luna Premium Prologue to Maggie 1.7's; Rythmik F25; XPA-5 to CC-470v3 Center/ERD-1's; Thorens TD166 MkII/Denon DL207/XPS-1; 5-zone Sonos w/Def Tech AW5500's @ deck/pool/master bath & Sony SS-MB105/Polk R10 @ great room & kitchen. Two headphone setups: Hifiberry/BasX A100 and Allo BOSS/Schiit Asgard 2 (each to Senn 600's). PC w/Airmotiv 3b's. Roon user.
Best to have your amp trigger from the DC-1, if it can do so depending if it has a trigger input.
I'll need to check the manual if there is an amp trigger input. I have no idea.
I guess I assumed the DC-1 had a muting relay so there's no clicks or pops when the input is unlocked.
My speaker amplifier is solid state, so I could run it all the time and just switch the DC-1 to stanby mode when not in use. But I'm worried about sending transient voltage spikes from the DC-1 pre-armp (which has an active buffer) when turned on.
Maybe still best practice to turn off the amp first, then pre-amp, then source?
Amp: XPA-1 gen 2 using XLR connections. Speakers: Axiom Audio m80 V3, Sennheisser HD600 headphones. two pairs 12 guage speaker cables per monoblock for biwire. Headphone amp: Basx A-100 (INCREDIBLE VALUE WITH HD600s!!)