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Post by garbulky on Jun 1, 2019 14:11:55 GMT -5
Also as to the absorbers - the ats acoustics I linked are reasonably priced. However they also have an art series. But either way they aren't lookers. If you are willign to pay $$$ there are some very good looking acoustic panels out there that you may like. They basically come looking like actual high quality art and they even come as tiles so the art spreads from one panel to the other.
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Post by Gary Cook on Jun 1, 2019 18:22:05 GMT -5
My son is a photographer and we have some of his pictures made into acoustic panels, no one notices that they in fact there for acoustic purposes, they all just compliment on the pictures themselves. There are also places that supply acoustic panels with their stock of artwork, from scenery to representations of famous paintings. Just do a search for acoustic artwork pictures and you’ll find plenty of options. I let the boss pick which pictures, so she’s happy with the result (WAF is important) and I get the acoustic benefit.
Cheers Gary
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 1, 2019 18:48:11 GMT -5
Lots of good suggestions for amps and room treatments, it’s likely you’ll end up with both. Your comments about YPAO and manual EQ intrigue me as they seem similar to what many have discussed here with the XMC-1. Possibly you are experiencing a condition Keith calls normalizing, or normalized; where your room correction or manual EQ are making such drastic changes at certain frequencies, that it limits the maximum volume or output available. Typically this happens if you try to smooth out big bass dips, with Dirac some use ‘curtains’ to tell the equalizer not to EQ below a certain point. I think the best way to test if this might be happening, is to compare the max output without any EQ, to that when YPAO or manual settings are applied. If you get a lot more output when your system is ‘flat’ (no EQ), then you might be trying to do too much — this is where room treatments and speaker placement will help more than more power (not that you shouldn’t get more power too ). Just something else to throw in the mix.
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Post by dxtrem3fx on Jun 1, 2019 20:55:47 GMT -5
Hello AudioHTIT, we're way out of my skill set now. I had to google the Dirac equation. My listening/living room is a terrible design for acoustics. It's not a box, I have vaulted ceilings. My back wall has an arch walkway that goes into another room. My left wall has a window to the back yard. And the right side is wide open to access the room. It's not a dedicated listing room, it's just our living room. At this point, I just want to drive my speakers with an external amp. I need to figure out how I'm going to make the connections from the amp to the AVR. My AVR only has two XLR connections. I will only be able to use RCA connections. Why is there only one RCA connection on the back of the amps? AVR's pre-outs have red and white.
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Post by dxtrem3fx on Jun 1, 2019 20:56:58 GMT -5
My son is a photographer and we have some of his pictures made into acoustic panels, no one notices that they in fact there for acoustic purposes, they all just compliment on the pictures themselves. There are also places that supply acoustic panels with their stock of artwork, from scenery to representations of famous paintings. Just do a search for acoustic artwork pictures and you’ll find plenty of options. I let the boss pick which pictures, so she’s happy with the result (WAF is important) and I get the acoustic benefit. Cheers Gary That's pretty awesome work!
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Post by dxtrem3fx on Jun 1, 2019 21:08:52 GMT -5
Never mind the AMPs are mono thats why there is one rca connection.
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Post by Gary Cook on Jun 1, 2019 21:16:03 GMT -5
Hello AudioHTIT, we're way out of my skill set now. I had to google the Dirac equation. My listening/living room is a terrible design for acoustics. It's not a box, I have vaulted ceilings. My back wall has an arch walkway that goes into another room. My left wall has a window to the back yard. And the right side is wide open to access the room. It's not a dedicated listing room, it's just our living room. At this point, I just want to drive my speakers with an external amp. I need to figure out how I'm going to make the connections from the amp to the AVR. My AVR only has two XLR connections. I will only be able to use RCA connections. Why is there only one RCA connection on the back of the amps? AVR's pre-outs have red and white. My house also has cathedral ceilings, it's split level and the sub, C , L & R from the lounge room 40% face a large back wall (which has the acoustic pictures) and the other 60% is open to the upper split level. Heavy curtains on the windows, W2W carpet with thick underfelt and soft furnishings help, with the acoustic panels the final piece of the puzzle. Room correction, either REW or DIRAC, doesn't actually change much, which was the objective as I have found that excessive correction has side effects. Plus I don't have to run any correction when listening to music. Not everyone has a perfectly symmetrical acoustic room, but it's not impossible to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse. it just takes time and experimentation. Cheers Gary
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 1, 2019 21:22:43 GMT -5
Hello AudioHTIT, we're way out of my skill set now. I had to google the Dirac equation. My listening/living room is a terrible design for acoustics. It's not a box, I have vaulted ceilings. My back wall has an arch walkway that goes into another room. My left wall has a window to the back yard. And the right side is wide open to access the room. It's not a dedicated listing room, it's just our living room. At this point, I just want to drive my speakers with an external amp. I need to figure out how I'm going to make the connections from the amp to the AVR. My AVR only has two XLR connections. I will only be able to use RCA connections. Why is there only one RCA connection on the back of the amps? AVR's pre-outs have red and white. It’s ok, I was explaining the issue, but all you really have to do is compare the volume of your system with and without equalization or room correction, that will help you learn if you’re maybe over correcting. If you only see one RCA on a power amp then it’s probably a mono block — one channel, a stereo or two channel amp would have two RCA, and on up for multichannel amps. (Edit: Ah, see you figured it out)
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Post by creimes on Jun 2, 2019 3:03:53 GMT -5
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Post by garbulky on Jun 2, 2019 3:13:31 GMT -5
I forgot to say on nearly all the room correction systems I encountered whenever the sound was room corrected , it lost its oomph and appeared to be "limited" in its power. So perhaps it is your YPAO doing it.
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Post by dxtrem3fx on Jun 2, 2019 10:06:09 GMT -5
I did not realize Dirac is actual software you can purchase. I found it on Emotivas site but it looks like you need to have a XMC-1?. Does Emotiva not produce RCA cables anymore? I do not see them on their site.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 2, 2019 10:38:30 GMT -5
I did not realize Dirac is actual software you can purchase. I found it on Emotivas site but it looks like you need to have a XMC-1?. Does Emotiva not produce RCA cables anymore? I do not see them on their site. They announced recently that they’re getting out of the cable business, there are a few close out items left. There are lots of good, reasonably priced cable choices available, Blue Jeans Cables and Monoprice often get recommended here, or DIY to make them prettier and just the right length.
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Post by dxtrem3fx on Jun 2, 2019 11:30:06 GMT -5
I purchased some super high dollar fiber optic HDMI cables from Monoprice. And my equipment hates them. They do not work well, The XBOX won't tolerate them whatsoever and my TV and AVR do not like them either. I get a lot of flashing and weird anomalies. Not sure why they were supposed to be the best HDMI cables that money could buy.
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Post by repeetavx on Jun 2, 2019 12:39:26 GMT -5
My favorite HDMI cable is made by Pangea. Each cable is tested with a TDR (Time Domain Reflectometer). To make sure each cable meets the 1.4 HDMI specification. A bit more expensive, but guaranteed quality.
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Post by mrloren on Jun 2, 2019 23:21:59 GMT -5
HDMI cables, look for WireLogic at Costco. Good cables made by Audioquest. Audioquest pearl are good too but a little pricey.
RCA cables SVS Soundpath are great cables that are decently priced.
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Post by dxtrem3fx on Jun 3, 2019 19:47:50 GMT -5
Monoprice HDMI CablesThese were supposed to be top of the line and past stringent testing on some Audiophile site. I don't remember the actual site.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Jun 3, 2019 21:55:15 GMT -5
Monoprice HDMI CablesThese were supposed to be top of the line and past stringent testing on some Audiophile site. I don't remember the actual site. I wouldn’t call Monoprice ‘top of the line’, they generally do the job they are intended to at a good price. I use their HDMI cables exclusively in my main system without issue, but partly because they’re ‘Certified’, relatively thin, black, and exactly 8’ long. I use these Monoprice Ultra Slim Certified Premium High Speed HDMI CableI assume you’re using the active fiber cables because you need the longer length? (they are pretty pricey) I think a couple lounge members with projectors have used the active Monoprice cables successfully, but I’m not sure of the model. The ‘audiophile’ site might have been HDMI.org, listed on this certificate
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Post by mrloren on Jun 3, 2019 23:01:27 GMT -5
Give the Wirelogic at Costco a try. They are made by Audioquest who cold welds (aka crimp) not solder. Other one would be Bluejeans cable www.bluejeanscable.com/ they to cold weld.
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Post by dxtrem3fx on Jun 24, 2019 14:40:24 GMT -5
So i ordered a XPA-9 on Friday and canceled my order today. My Yamaha RX-A3070 does not allow all channels to be powered by an external amp. I'm pretty disappointed right now . I need to buy a new AVR or a pre/pro. " src="//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/superangry.png"> Yamaha RX-A3070 manual download
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Post by leonski on Jun 24, 2019 15:25:10 GMT -5
I think at this point the OP is either scratching his or her head or down the road.
Point is? Those 'power ratings' for your original amp are FICTION. And have little to do with your conditions of use which is apparetly fairly Loud and multiple channels.
Me? I'm a big fan of the PA-1 mono 'D' amps. Cool running and mondo power. Off load main / center channels to external amps FIRST.
Speaking of power? The 160 watt rating VS th 40 watt all-channels measured is about 6 db. That's a LOT especially considering the lack of headroom. That's the low-distortion BURST POWER.
Welcome to the Churn. They intentionally rob lower cost amps of features and force an upgrade. Is Yamaha even a good HT amp any more? Was it ever? Some Denon stuff I've heard over the years doesnt' please, either.
To future proof yourself? Maybe a pre-pro, but be careful. I'm not the one to ask about this, being a stereo guy.
Than at some point you'll discover what I don't think anyone here has mentioned. Your SPEAKERS may not be capable of what you ask. And If they work for 20 minutes, no guarantee that they won't cook-off in another 20 after THAT. Heat is the big enemy here and believe it or not, speaker performance changes for the worse the hotter they get. Damage may be cumulative. After a couple months of beating the speakers with a lot of power, at least the top 6db of which is at 10% distortion, they may simply throw in the towel.
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