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Post by patate91 on Jul 29, 2019 9:06:14 GMT -5
My A-100 is on his way to my house and I'm planning to use it in an active setup.
I would like to know if the volume's pot attenuation is analogue or numerical.
And how it's configure. Let say I need -12db of attenuation is there a way to calculate it? Like every clicks are -1db of attenuation.
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Post by garbulky on Jul 29, 2019 9:47:58 GMT -5
My A-100 is on his way to my house and I'm planning to use it in an active setup. I would like to know if the volume's pot attenuation is analogue or numerical. And how it's configure. Let say I need -12db of attenuation is there a way to calculate it? Like every clicks are -1db of attenuation. There's no clicks. Three's also not a marker to show where you're at. It's all a wild guess.
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Jul 29, 2019 14:00:46 GMT -5
There's no clicks. Three's also not a marker to show where you're at. It's all a wild guess. Doesn't that make it fun! Mark
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Post by patate91 on Jul 29, 2019 15:54:06 GMT -5
There's no clicks. Three's also not a marker to show where you're at. It's all a wild guess. Doesn't that make it fun! Mark For setting up an active crossover, gain structure and EQ, etc., no.
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Post by patate91 on Jul 29, 2019 15:55:23 GMT -5
My A-100 is on his way to my house and I'm planning to use it in an active setup. I would like to know if the volume's pot attenuation is analogue or numerical. And how it's configure. Let say I need -12db of attenuation is there a way to calculate it? Like every clicks are -1db of attenuation. There's no clicks. Three's also not a marker to show where you're at. It's all a wild guess. I guess I'll have to measure the output voltage....
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Jul 29, 2019 16:07:26 GMT -5
Doesn't that make it fun! Mark For setting up an active crossover, gain structure and EQ, etc., no. Are you going to do room correction for a system based on the A100? What speakers and sources are you going to use? And, I take it you are also going to use a sub (hence the active x-over)? What one? Mark
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Post by patate91 on Jul 29, 2019 16:25:55 GMT -5
Here's my plan
Sources : CD player and Raspberry pi 3B
Crossover, preamp and DAC : Minidsp 2x4 HD
Amplifiers: For Tweeter : Emotiva A-100 (waiting for it to arrive). 50w @ 8 Ohms, 0,6V = 20 VRms Gain : 30,45 db.
For woofer : Emotiva A-300 (I'll test the A-100 first, and wait for a renewed to pop out). 150w @ 8 Ohms, 1,2V = 34,64 VRms Gain : 29,20 DB.
So 1,25 db difference.
Speakers :
Horn loaded compression driver : TAD TD-4002, sensitivity : 110db/w
Woofer : TAD TL-1603, sensitivity : 97db/W
So there's a 13 db difference.
This is my first step in the active world. On another forum someone point me out that the compression driver's high sensititivy can be an issue with minidsp ans A-100 (high gain) hiss.
I hope the A-100's volume pot is analogue, it should help me match the drivers sensitivity. I still can do it with the minidsp digital gain output control, but it won't help with with noise.
If it works it will be a cheap yet very effective setup. This is my first amp from Emotiva ans base on specs there's nothing to worry about.
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Post by patate91 on Jul 29, 2019 16:34:55 GMT -5
For setting up an active crossover, gain structure and EQ, etc., no. Are you going to do room correction for a system based on the A100? What speakers and sources are you going to use? And, I take it you are also going to use a sub (hence the active x-over)? What one? Mark Yes crossover and room correction. I already measured my audio room. I also add a lot of acoustic treatments, so corrections should be minimal.
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Jul 29, 2019 16:47:47 GMT -5
Here's my plan Sources : CD player and Raspberry pi 3B Crossover, preamp and DAC : Minidsp 2x4 HD Amplifiers: For Tweeter : Emotiva A-100 (waiting for it to arrive). 50w @ 8 Ohms, 0,6V = 20 VRms Gain : 30,45 db. For woofer : Emotiva A-300 (I'll test the A-100 first, and wait for a renewed to pop out). 150w @ 8 Ohms, 1,2V = 34,64 VRms Gain : 29,20 DB. So 1,25 db difference. Speakers : Horn loaded compression driver : TAD TD-4002, sensitivity : 110db/w Woofer : TAD TL-1603, sensitivity : 97db/W So there's a 13 db difference. This is my first step in the active world. On another forum someone point me out that the compression driver's high sensititivy can be an issue with minidsp ans A-100 (high gain) hiss. I hope the A-100's volume pot is analogue, it should help me match the drivers sensitivity. I still can do it with the minidsp digital gain output control, but it won't help with with noise. If it works it will be a cheap yet very effective setup. This is my first amp from Emotiva ans base on specs there's nothing to worry about. So, if I read this right, you are building your own speakers...correct? And, using the A-300 to drive the woofer? And, in effect, you are using the mini-dsp as the crossover and there's no midrange driver...correct? Mark
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Jul 29, 2019 17:04:59 GMT -5
Regarding whether the volume control is analog or digital, considering that the A-100 is purely an analog device - I would have to assume the volume control is done in the analog domain. Call Emotiva to confirm, but I am 99.44% sure it's analog.
And, if I understand what you plan to do...which is: 1) Run digital sources into the MiniDSP 2x4 HD 2) Use the MiniDSP for overall volume control. 3) Run analog out to the A100 and A300, then on to your tweeters and woofers. 4) Use the A100 volume control to limit the volume of the tweeters via A100 to match levels with the subs.
Did I get that right?
If so...why bother measuring output voltage of the A100? Why not just run test tones through the system and adjust the A100's volume to match levels with the woofers/A300?
Alternatively, why use the A300 as the sub amp? Why not get a traditional amp plate with a level control and use that to set the sub levels?
Mark
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Post by patate91 on Jul 29, 2019 17:31:09 GMT -5
Regarding whether the volume control is analog or digital, considering that the A-100 is purely an analog device - I would have to assume the volume control is done in the analog domain. Call Emotiva to confirm, but I am 99.44% sure it's analog. And, if I understand what you plan to do...which is: 1) Run digital sources into the MiniDSP 2x4 HD 2) Use the MiniDSP for overall volume control. 3) Run analog out to the A100 and A300, then on to your tweeters and woofers. 4) Use the A100 volume control to limit the volume of the tweeters via A100 to match levels with the subs. Did I get that right? If so...why bother measuring output voltage of the A100? Why not just run test tones through the system and adjust the A100's volume to match levels with the woofers/A300? Alternatively, why use the A300 as the sub amp? Why not get a traditional amp plate with a level control and use that to set the sub levels? Mark Yes you're right. I can probably goes for the test tone way, sounds like a good alternative, but I'll have to make sure the master volume is set low But one of the fun part was to calculate everything and understand how it works. And I'm a on the side to aim for the best possible setting. Because my speakers are 2 ways. The woofers are not just use as a subwoofer. Currently they are used for 0 to 800 hz. I'm planning to change the crossover for 600hz. I'm using a 35w @ 8 Ohms pure class A amplifier and there's plenty of bass. And there's no need to control the volume for it. Like I sais earlier those 16 inches TAD woofers are 97 db sensitive and are rated for 200 W recommended (max 500). There's no need for a sub woofer and huge amount of power. I'll try to post the graph of my room's frequency response.
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Post by patate91 on Jul 29, 2019 17:38:17 GMT -5
As you can see bass is good except the 70 hz room mode. I'm trying to get rid as much as I can with bass traps.
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Post by patate91 on Jul 29, 2019 17:41:15 GMT -5
Here's the bass. Look for gold Line, this is the optimal setup.
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Jul 29, 2019 18:05:25 GMT -5
Regarding whether the volume control is analog or digital, considering that the A-100 is purely an analog device - I would have to assume the volume control is done in the analog domain. Call Emotiva to confirm, but I am 99.44% sure it's analog. And, if I understand what you plan to do...which is: 1) Run digital sources into the MiniDSP 2x4 HD 2) Use the MiniDSP for overall volume control. 3) Run analog out to the A100 and A300, then on to your tweeters and woofers. 4) Use the A100 volume control to limit the volume of the tweeters via A100 to match levels with the subs. Did I get that right? If so...why bother measuring output voltage of the A100? Why not just run test tones through the system and adjust the A100's volume to match levels with the woofers/A300? Alternatively, why use the A300 as the sub amp? Why not get a traditional amp plate with a level control and use that to set the sub levels? Mark Yes you're right. I can probably goes for the test tone way, sounds like a good alternative, but I'll have to make sure the master volume is set low But one of the fun part was to calculate everything and understand how it works. And I'm a on the side to aim for the best possible setting. Because my speakers are 2 ways. The woofers are not just use as a subwoofer. Currently they are used for 0 to 800 hz. I'm planning to change the crossover for 600hz. I'm using a 35w @ 8 Ohms pure class A amplifier and there's plenty of bass. And there's no need to control the volume for it. Like I sais earlier those 16 inches TAD woofers are 97 db sensitive and are rated for 200 W recommended (max 500). There's no need for a sub woofer and huge amount of power. I'll try to post the graph of my room's frequency response. Sounds like a good plan to at least try. On calculating, I understand - I'm an engineer, and I love it when my calcs match reality. That said, while the speakers are rated for certain sensitivities - room effects always come in. So, test tones are the ultimate, in my opinion. Also, with the A100, as previously noted - there are not "clicks/detents" and there is no readout. It's just a volume knob that smoothly rotates. And, there's not even a "notch" on the dial to show where it is on a scale. So, once you figure out where you want the A100's volume knob set, you may want to find a way to mark the location. I have read of some using a scribe to make a mark on the knob and/or chassis for this purpose. For my needs, I don't worry. I use it solely as a headphone amp, so I dial it up and down to my desired level by ear and don't worry about it. For yours, very different. Mark
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Post by patate91 on Jul 29, 2019 18:27:15 GMT -5
Sounds like a good plan to at least try. On calculating, I understand - I'm an engineer, and I love it when my calcs match reality. That said, while the speakers are rated for certain sensitivities - room effects always come in. So, test tones are the ultimate, in my opinion. Also, with the A100, as previously noted - there are not "clicks/detents" and there is no readout. It's just a volume knob that smoothly rotates. And, there's not even a "notch" on the dial to show where it is on a scale. So, once you figure out where you want the A100's volume knob set, you may want to find a way to mark the location. I have read of some using a scribe to make a mark on the knob and/or chassis for this purpose. For my needs, I don't worry. I use it solely as a headphone amp, so I dial it up and down to my desired level by ear and don't worry about it. For yours, very different. Mark [/quote] Thanks for taking time to anwser. I saw a youtube video where a guy use some stickers. I think it could be easy to find 7, 5 and 12 o'clock. Same goes for marking my "sweet spot". I think a white noise with an RTA should get the job done to find a decent matching
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Jul 29, 2019 18:32:18 GMT -5
Let us know how it sounds. That's an interesting use of the amp. It's a solid amp. While I do mainly listen to it it via headphones, I can listen via my old B&W 202's, and it's a solid little amp.
Mark
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Post by garbulky on Jul 30, 2019 9:54:11 GMT -5
patate91 If you are looking for this as a purely active setup. I think using an old generation UPA-500 may be the answer or a new generation Basx A-500. The channels will be already matched this way. If you want to get a bit beefier look for a used XPA-5 gen 1 or 2 by posting a wanted ad in the emporium section. You should be able to get a used A-500 or UPA-500 for about $300-400. A used XPA-5 for about $650-750. If you want to get even higher end and go quad monoblocks with four Emotiva PA-1's (at $300 each).
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Post by patate91 on Jul 30, 2019 11:06:46 GMT -5
patate91 If you are looking for this as a purely active setup. I think using an old generation UPA-500 may be the answer or a new generation Basx A-500. The channels will be already matched this way. If you want to get a bit beefier look for a used XPA-5 gen 1 or 2 by posting a wanted ad in the emporium section. You should be able to get a used A-500 or UPA-500 for about $300-400. A used XPA-5 for about $650-750. If you want to get even higher end and go quad monoblocks with four Emotiva PA-1's (at $300 each). No need for more power. Speakers are very sensitive, even with a 35 w amplifier I can drive them to insane volume, at listening position, without clipping. I choose the A-100 because it matches the compression specs : 30 w recommended and 60 w max (16 Ohms). There's less chances to blow them accidently.
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Post by patate91 on Jul 30, 2019 11:08:00 GMT -5
I agree that the woofers can take more power than a A-300 but I will never use 150w of power anyway.
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Post by patate91 on Jul 30, 2019 11:29:07 GMT -5
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