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Post by benbvan on Mar 26, 2020 2:25:23 GMT -5
I hate to get embroiled in this, but I DO have a question and comment. Is the 2.4volt sensitivity single ended or XLR? If XLR, is that 1.2v PER LEG or 2.4v PER LEG? Every proper XLR device I've ever encounterd has been louder' thru the XLR than single ended because while the same output voltage, it is actually 3db (or is that 6db?) higher in output. Right lol. I've been corresponding with Dan via email, but not really about this topic exactly. We have been discussing XLR inputs about the reverse phase of the Emo amps. And the benefits of the RMC-1L vs. The XMC-2. I would imagine doubling voltage would be +3db??? Not sure about the math there. That is a great question though, it has been brought up in here I think but it wasn't answered. All the info I've gotten from a couple people at Emotiva is that the amp requires 2.4v for rated power. I imagine their big prepros do feice that at least in balanced output
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Post by benbvan on Jul 12, 2020 13:51:52 GMT -5
Anyone here have issues with channels cutting out on their DR amps? I'm running a DR3 and even after being sent in for service I'm having the same issue, left channel cutting out during loud playback. Using RMC-1L as prepro.
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Post by foggy1956 on Jul 12, 2020 15:19:28 GMT -5
Anyone here have issues with channels cutting out on their DR amps? I'm running a DR3 and even after being sent in for service I'm having the same issue, left channel cutting out during loud playback. Using RMC-1L as prepro. Flip the cables, see if the trouble moves?
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Post by benbvan on Jul 12, 2020 19:05:34 GMT -5
Anyone here have issues with channels cutting out on their DR amps? I'm running a DR3 and even after being sent in for service I'm having the same issue, left channel cutting out during loud playback. Using RMC-1L as prepro. Flip the cables, see if the trouble moves? It's the left channel that goes out first, then if you increase a couple more db the right channel goes also.
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Post by mack71 on Jul 12, 2020 19:54:05 GMT -5
Flip the cables, see if the trouble moves? It's the left channel that goes out first, then if you increase a couple more db the right channel goes also. I would look for a reason in RMC 1L ?
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Post by benbvan on Jul 12, 2020 20:44:27 GMT -5
It's the left channel that goes out first, then if you increase a couple more db the right channel goes also. I would look for a reason in RMC 1L ? I emailed Keith and will see what he says. That may be a thing. Another person thinks it may just be incompatibility between LsiM707's and DR amps at very high levels due to the low impedance.
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Post by ttocs on Jul 12, 2020 22:07:23 GMT -5
Flip the cables, see if the trouble moves? It's the left channel that goes out first, then if you increase a couple more db the right channel goes also. Flipping the cables is still a valid test to find out if the same issue appears in exactly the same way, or if something, anything, is different. At what dB level does the sound cut out? How much time does the amp need to be on for the issue to occur? Does it happen after the amp has been on for only a short time? Or, does it need to heat up for some longer period of time before this happens?
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Post by benbvan on Jul 12, 2020 22:15:05 GMT -5
It's the left channel that goes out first, then if you increase a couple more db the right channel goes also. Flipping the cables is still a valid test to find out if the same issue appears in exactly the same way, or if something, anything, is different. At what dB level does the sound cut out? How much time does the amp need to be on for the issue to occur? Does it happen after the amp has been on for only a short time? Or, does it need to heat up for some longer period of time before this happens? I guess I could switch the speaker wires. It didn't happen the same way using the tuner, then whole amp went into protect while testing with the tuner. I've experienced this shortly after turn on and after hours of playing. Only does it running full range. Driving Polk 707's. I usually notice this start to happen at -8db on the volume dial with no boost to any channels. Happens mostly at about -6db.
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Post by ttocs on Jul 12, 2020 23:14:28 GMT -5
Flipping the cables is still a valid test to find out if the same issue appears in exactly the same way, or if something, anything, is different. At what dB level does the sound cut out? How much time does the amp need to be on for the issue to occur? Does it happen after the amp has been on for only a short time? Or, does it need to heat up for some longer period of time before this happens? I guess I could switch the speaker wires. It didn't happen the same way using the tuner, then whole amp went into protect while testing with the tuner. I've experienced this shortly after turn on and after hours of playing. Only does it running full range. Driving Polk 707's. I usually notice this start to happen at -8db on the volume dial with no boost to any channels. Happens mostly at about -6db. What I was meaning to say is what SPL does the amp cut out at? The volume level displayed on the preamp is not absolute, so a measured SPL is what I was asking about. You might try setting the speakers to Small and cutting off the bass at various freqs to see if it has any effect. Also, it may be worth messing with the jumpers on the speakers to disconnect each section of the speakers to see if the amps cut out while only driving the mids/highs or only the lows.
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Post by benbvan on Jul 12, 2020 23:32:35 GMT -5
I guess I could switch the speaker wires. It didn't happen the same way using the tuner, then whole amp went into protect while testing with the tuner. I've experienced this shortly after turn on and after hours of playing. Only does it running full range. Driving Polk 707's. I usually notice this start to happen at -8db on the volume dial with no boost to any channels. Happens mostly at about -6db. What I was meaning to say is what SPL does the amp cut out at? The volume level displayed on the preamp is not absolute, so a measured SPL is what I was asking about. You might try setting the speakers to Small and cutting off the bass at various freqs to see if it has any effect. Also, it may be worth messing with the jumpers on the speakers to disconnect each section of the speakers to see if the amps cut out while only driving the mids/highs or only the lows. I have not measured spl. It is not crazy high levels but loud and authoritive when the amp cuts out. I just changed from bare wire and banana plugs to spade connectors before I put the DR back into the system when it came back from repair Thursday. As stated it only happens druving the towers full range. I do this in Reference Stereo mode for several reasons. It's the easiest, and it adds no processing, tone control, or bass management. Pure direct. When running the speakers small with the 2 Rythmik F18's there is no issue with cutout.
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Post by Casey Leedom on Jul 12, 2020 23:38:26 GMT -5
Aren't the DR amps really Bridged versions of the normal blades? The Polk LSiM707 are rated as nominally 8Ω and 88dB sensitivity. Not a horrible load. Not super sensitive, but not super insensitive either. Still -8dB to -6dB much have had your roof coming off. It sounds like they went into power protection.
Casey
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Post by benbvan on Jul 12, 2020 23:49:59 GMT -5
Aren't the DR amps really Bridged versions of the normal blades? The Polk LSiM707 are rated as nominally 8Ω and 88dB sensitivity. Not a horrible load. Not super sensitive, but not super insensitive either. Still -8dB to -6dB much have had your roof coming off. It sounds like they went into power protection. Casey Yes, they are bridge high power modules with a special power supply. The 707 are actually 5 ohm nominal and drop to 2.8 ohms in the 66hz range. And are more like 87db sensitive. They play large and in charge. They are played completely flat, no boost or cut, no processing, no tone control. They sound amazing with the power. The amp doesn't shut down, I just lose almost the entire channel. Very very faint treble can be heard if you put your ear to the speaker. Or if I go a little farther the other channel will also cut and still stay on with blue lights. Then you can hear the faint treble from the MLP.
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