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Post by novisnick on Sept 17, 2013 11:32:29 GMT -5
Will it have an A/ AB switch on it like the XPA-1L does?
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stiehl11
Emo VIPs 
Give me available light!
Posts: 7,269
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Post by stiehl11 on Sept 17, 2013 11:36:33 GMT -5
Yes.
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Post by frenchyfranky on Sept 17, 2013 11:49:52 GMT -5
Here is a picture at emofest from klinemj of the XPA-1 gen 2, look just over the S/N at the left bottom corner;  |
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Post by novisnick on Sept 17, 2013 12:21:59 GMT -5
Droolllllllllll
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Post by novisnick on Sept 19, 2013 22:46:50 GMT -5
Any news on this product? HELLO,
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Post by milt99 on Sept 21, 2013 13:00:41 GMT -5
I've heard\read that these will be 60 watts Class A.
Me thinks they will run hotter than my XPA-1Ls.
A lot hotter.
Me want.
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Post by dally on Sept 21, 2013 13:43:29 GMT -5
I've heard\read that these will be 60 watts Class A. Me thinks they will run hotter than my XPA-1Ls. A lot hotter. Me want. Not necessarily, as the XPA-1's have a lot larger heat sink area than the XPA-1L. |
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Post by novisnick on Sept 21, 2013 14:13:43 GMT -5
Yes, but the XPA-1s don't have 35 or 60 watts of class A
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Post by TUGA Audiophile on Sept 22, 2013 5:10:31 GMT -5
Yes, but the XPA-1s don't have 35 or 60 watts of class A XPA-1 Gen 2 will have 60W continuous in class A. - According to EMOTIVA STAFF posted in here the LOUNGE. Well the cats out of the bag now.  Yes, ladies and gentleman, the Gen 2 version of the XPA-1 amplifiers do indeed have the same A/AB switch on the front panel and will run a solid 60 watts of class A. You can see them at Emofest and if you can't make it, then we will be posting pics soon after. Lonnie how much heat will the new gen 2 xpa 1s be generating? my xpa 1s just get a little warm with the blue lights dancing 1/2 way across the units.. thanks You know how nuclear power plants need a cooling pond? Well you won't need that for these, but they will warm up your room over a period of time. The thing about class A is the amp is producing 60 watts of energy all the time, whether or not you are using it. So they do run warm. But the nice thing is, you can always just switch them to class A/B mode and they will run nice and cool. Lonnie |
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Post by leonski on Sept 26, 2013 21:45:11 GMT -5
I didn't see an A/A-B switch anywhere. Am I missing something?
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Post by Dark Ranger on Sept 26, 2013 22:08:44 GMT -5
I didn't see an A/A-B switch anywhere. Am I missing something? It's located in the lower-left corner above the serial number. ....CLASS
A [---......] A/B |
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Post by leonski on Sept 29, 2013 10:38:52 GMT -5
Got it. Small switch in a 'fragile' place. I'd like a backpanel rocker....flush mount switch, but that's just me. With a front panel indicator lamp.
Also people need to know the difference between HEAT and TEMPERTURE.
You can have something at a high temp with little heat. Try warming your house with a red-hot frying pan. But something LARGE at a lesser temp will provide the heat to warm
even a large house.
Same with amps. You simply don't want to run ANY transistor above a certain temp. They'll fail. So, as you UP the amount of 'A' power desired, you BETTER be adding lots of heat sink. That's why I wouldn't look at any Full-On 'A' amp of less than 1lb per watt. So the more powerful 'A' amp produces more HEAT but doesn't reach a higher TEMPRETURE. At some point, the 'space heater' thing kicks in and you start seeing a BIG impact on your AC bill.....but can recover some of that in the winter with reduced heating bills. The EMO 'High Bias' designs as you'll see, ARE pretty heavy for their power. If I had a set of 4 of the 1L's, I'd run AB 90% of the time and 'A' only.....for critical listening. And than, with Magnepans, would I end up in AB much of the time, anyway?
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Post by Bonzo on Sept 30, 2013 11:46:47 GMT -5
Got it. Small switch in a 'fragile' place. I'd like a backpanel rocker....flush mount switch, but that's just me. With a front panel indicator lamp. Emotiva fails again.   Just can't make anyone happy can they? Trim the switch with some side cutters. Fragile place? Do you do aerobics in your room? Are you a bull in a china shop? Now if they'd just give me a dimmer / off switch for all the lights.......  Oh that's right, no one seems to care about that other than me. Guess we are both just weird in our own sort of way.  |
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Post by leonski on Oct 2, 2013 0:27:25 GMT -5
The switch is front-panel to appeal to the 'switch flippers' among us. I'm not one.
However, I can see the benefit to a dimmer.....either continuous or 3 or 4 position...like on my GCC250 from PSAudio. The accent light is on/off while the display has a couple 'levels' before off altogether.
As a matter of fact, I don't see WHY there is a switch at all? Pass makes do with no switch. The 30 watt x2 stereo amp runs to over 100 watts in AB / 1% distortion. And near double into 4 ohms. The AB amp built on the same platform is 150 / 300 with maybe the first 8 or 10 watts in 'A'. The transisiton is 'seamless'. THe electric bill / heat issue is much less on the 150 watt AB amp. SQ differences are minimal.
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Post by garbulky on Oct 2, 2013 4:23:31 GMT -5
The switch is front-panel to appeal to the 'switch flippers' among us. I'm not one. However, I can see the benefit to a dimmer.....either continuous or 3 or 4 position...like on my GCC250 from PSAudio. The accent light is on/off while the display has a couple 'levels' before off altogether. As a matter of fact, I don't see WHY there is a switch at all? Pass makes do with no switch. The 30 watt x2 stereo amp runs to over 100 watts in AB / 1% distortion. And near double into 4 ohms. The AB amp built on the same platform is 150 / 300 with maybe the first 8 or 10 watts in 'A'. The transisiton is 'seamless'. THe electric bill / heat issue is much less on the 150 watt AB amp. SQ differences are minimal. I guess I don't understand the problem. This is the first time the switch has been an issue that I've heard. I think it's a good idea. At 60 watts class A it will be consuming quite a bit of current. I like to leave my amps on. So when I'm not in, I can simply switch it to A/B and still leave my amp on. |
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Post by pedrocols on Oct 2, 2013 7:27:11 GMT -5
The switch is front-panel to appeal to the 'switch flippers' among us. I'm not one. However, I can see the benefit to a dimmer.....either continuous or 3 or 4 position...like on my GCC250 from PSAudio. The accent light is on/off while the display has a couple 'levels' before off altogether. As a matter of fact, I don't see WHY there is a switch at all? Pass makes do with no switch. The 30 watt x2 stereo amp runs to over 100 watts in AB / 1% distortion. And near double into 4 ohms. The AB amp built on the same platform is 150 / 300 with maybe the first 8 or 10 watts in 'A'. The transisiton is 'seamless'. THe electric bill / heat issue is much less on the 150 watt AB amp. SQ differences are minimal. The pre amp I have goes for $3,000 brand new and guess where is the power switch located...the power switch is on the front panel and it looks brittle. |
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Post by leonski on Oct 2, 2013 19:37:26 GMT -5
The power switch is a 'daily' switch, unless you use the remote. My PSAudio has a flush mounted 'soft touch' switch which is user friendly.
I just don't believe that, in general, an AB/A switch is needed frequently enough to be a front panel switch. If Pass thought it was important, HE'D have put one on his ($$$$) amps.
I've replaced too many broken miniature or sub mini toggle switches.....many of which simply had a broken toggle. A proper switch will last multiple thousands of cycles.
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Post by deltadube on Oct 3, 2013 0:30:13 GMT -5
The power switch is a 'daily' switch, unless you use the remote. My PSAudio has a flush mounted 'soft touch' switch which is user friendly. I just don't believe that, in general, an AB/A switch is needed frequently enough to be a front panel switch. If Pass thought it was important, HE'D have put one on his ($$$$) amps. I've replaced too many broken miniature or sub mini toggle switches.....many of which simply had a broken toggle. A proper switch will last multiple thousands of cycles. Hi Leonski... i think you left out a $ in your ($$$$) amps... more like pass amps ($$$$$) |
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Post by garbulky on Oct 3, 2013 3:24:28 GMT -5
The power switch is a 'daily' switch, unless you use the remote. My PSAudio has a flush mounted 'soft touch' switch which is user friendly. I just don't believe that, in general, an AB/A switch is needed frequently enough to be a front panel switch. If Pass thought it was important, HE'D have put one on his ($$$$) amps. I've replaced too many broken miniature or sub mini toggle switches.....many of which simply had a broken toggle. A proper switch will last multiple thousands of cycles. I think you may have made some assumptions here: - The switch will fail. It hasn't been reported failed yet on the XPA-1 L yet. - It's intended use frequency - Pass and Emotiva are not the same amp/company/designer. |
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Post by leonski on Oct 3, 2013 18:02:01 GMT -5
Your right, switches are NOT failure prone. However, people DO clip the toggle on miniature and sub-mini switches. They are, to me, at least, on the fragile side. I would PERSONALLY use some kind of flush mount switch to prevent ANY possiblity of that kind of failure. Stuff gets moved / bumped at the worst possible time. It's one of the rules.
I like the idea, for those with sensitive enough speakers especially, to go to 'A' when using the amp and back to AB when NOT in use....to preserve power and lower heat generation. To that end, a front panel switch works...but I'd still go for a flush mount style.
As for Pass being $$$$$ rather than a mere $$$$, point taken. The preowned amps are a little more reasonable, but still expensive. I'm sure the latest, XS series will give even wealthy persons pause.
Pass is an 'aspirational' piece. Emotiva is real....available....and represents a great value. It's all 'just' stereo.
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Just can't make anyone happy can they? Trim the switch with some side cutters. Fragile place? Do you do aerobics in your room? Are you a bull in a china shop?
Oh that's right, no one seems to care about that other than me. 
