novisnick
EmoPhile
CEO Secret Monoblock Society
Posts: 27,223
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Post by novisnick on Jul 13, 2019 12:21:50 GMT -5
Spent yesterday morning assembling my new 17.5KW portable generator. The instruction manual contained a postage-stamp-sized blow-up (almost literally) of how the parts went together and no mention whatsoever of how to get the product off its shipping pallet. Nevertheless, it wasn't rocket science, and I got the axle and wheels mounted - then rolled the generator off the pallet. Next, the shipping hold-downs needed to be removed from the generator frame. Again - no mention in the manual. The bolt heads were accessible, but the retaining nuts were inside the chassis, and took some unconventional wrench maneuvering to grip them (don't bring any crescent wrenches...). The oil capacity was given in English units; the supply bags marked in liters. The tires were low on air by 33%, and I had to pump them up to be able to roll them (over wet ground) to where the generator protective box was sited. The fuel cap had a strip attached by a plastic retainer whose purpose was not mentioned in the documentation. I finally figured out that it was supposed to be a cap retainer. You squish the strip to force it through the fuel opening, and then when you remove the cap, the retainer keeps the cap from being lost or blown away while you fuel. The battery did not have enough amperage to crank the motor, but after trickle charging for about two hours, all was well. The instructions give a list of tools that will be required for assembly, but fail to mention the approximately 50% of additional tools that were actually needed. The instructions were not ignorant of the additional tool requirements ("two 7/16" wrenches will be needed to attach the terminals") but the opening tool list overlooked the fact that they'd be required. It's disappointing that a company that touts its products as being proudly American-made would so a poor job of documentation. Perhaps Generac is taking lessons from the U.S. car companies of the 1970's? After all, nostalgia IS big again... But all's well that ends well. If the performance is satisfactory, then I'll forgive the one-time irritations of assembly. Boom 🤔
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Post by Boomzilla on Jul 14, 2019 4:18:36 GMT -5
Also, I got a reply from Hong Kong's Vinshine Audio, saying that they were shipping me the "new" Denafrips Ares DAC. Any idea what that's about?
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Post by Boomzilla on Aug 4, 2019 9:50:36 GMT -5
I had the pleasure of a visit from garbulky last night - He wanted to hear the new Denafrips Aries DAC in my system. Rather than put words in his mouth, I'll let him tell the tale. But the comparison between my usual DAC (the Sabre one built into my Oppo 205) and the R2R Denafrips is instructive. When I get time away from work, I'll be doing a review of the Denafrips for the Secrets site. Hopefully it'll be soon. Boom
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Post by audiobill on Aug 4, 2019 19:01:56 GMT -5
Also, I got a reply from Hong Kong's Vinshine Audio, saying that they were shipping me the "new" Denafrips Ares DAC. Any idea what that's about? Maybe off point, but a large concern about denafrips is just one US distributor/service source. I was considering the Terminator before my Directstream, but that kept me away. Very happy with the Directstream as it turns out.
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 22, 2019 19:15:07 GMT -5
Transferring 4 GB of music from my old WD external HDD (that is slowly failing) to a new drive. I have another backup if the failing dive doesn't make it through the transfer, but with the vageries of HDDs, better safe than sorry.
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Post by foggy1956 on Sept 22, 2019 19:32:26 GMT -5
Transferring 4 GB of music from my old WD external HDD (that is slowly failing) to a new drive. I have another backup if the failing dive doesn't make it through the transfer, but with the vageries of HDDs, better safe than sorry. Why not transfer it from the back up if the main drive is already shakey?
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 22, 2019 20:03:01 GMT -5
Bits is bits. Either the files transfer without errors or the process stops. If they DO transfer, then it's just as fast with one source as another.
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 24, 2019 22:46:04 GMT -5
Not only did the data transfer from the questionable drive go without a hitch, but since the data dump, the old drive has quit acting peculiar. Go figure... Anyway, I've got another question for the Lounge experts. I'm looking for a computer room integrated amp. Stuff it's got to have: 5-way binding posts - no cheap spring loaded ones Bass management - I plan to use a sub. Remote control Small form factor Stuf I can do without: Everything else. I checked first to see if an Emotiva A-100 would fill the bill, but no bass management ( ) A PS-Audio Sprout would be schweet, but I'm trying to get by for a lot less than $500. I think that maybe Topping makes some small amps? Note that I can take or leave a built-in DAC... Any suggestions? PS: If I can't find anything for <$300, I might as well just buy a cheap AVR.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Sept 25, 2019 11:41:40 GMT -5
If you replaced your sub amp with (Dayton Audio SPA250DSP 250W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier with DSP) then your main speaker out option is limitless. (maybe some amp in your closet not being used) or get an ice module for mains- small form factor. miniDSP offers a multitude of options for small form factor audio. I see Sprout100 on ebay around $375
I use older model AVR's for stereo, options are large; so is size.
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Post by garbulky on Sept 25, 2019 12:44:59 GMT -5
Not only did the data transfer from the questionable drive go without a hitch, but since the data dump, the old drive has quit acting peculiar. Go figure... Anyway, I've got another question for the Lounge experts. I'm looking for a computer room integrated amp. Stuff it's got to have: 5-way binding posts - no cheap spring loaded ones Bass management - I plan to use a sub. Remote control Small form factor Stuf I can do without: Everything else. I checked first to see if an Emotiva A-100 would fill the bill, but no bass management ( ) A PS-Audio Sprout would be schweet, but I'm trying to get by for a lot less than $500. I think that maybe Topping makes some small amps? Note that I can take or leave a built-in DAC... Any suggestions? PS: If I can't find anything for <$300, I might as well just buy a cheap AVR. Emotiva TA-100 (that's the PT-100 with an integrated amp) Also for @$300 Amazon Echo Link amp. It hasn't received great reviews for audiophile quality but it's supposed for be okay.
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 25, 2019 19:51:15 GMT -5
Emotiva TA-100 (that's the PT-100 with an integrated amp) Correct me if I'm wrong, but despite having a sub out, that amp doesn't really roll off the bass from the main speakers. Instead, both the speakers and the sub-out get a full-range signal. I want true bass management. I don't need variable turnover frequencies (although it would be handy), but I do want a true crossover.
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Post by garbulky on Sept 25, 2019 21:38:38 GMT -5
Emotiva TA-100 (that's the PT-100 with an integrated amp) Correct me if I'm wrong, but despite having a sub out, that amp doesn't really roll off the bass from the main speakers. Instead, both the speakers and the sub-out get a full-range signal. I want true bass management. I don't need variable turnover frequencies (although it would be handy), but I do want a true crossover. Sprout does not either . I don't know any that do.
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 26, 2019 3:25:48 GMT -5
To the best of my knowledge, ALL the AVRs have a crossover. 80 Hz. is typical.
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Post by frenchyfranky on Sept 26, 2019 11:31:30 GMT -5
Emotiva TA-100 (that's the PT-100 with an integrated amp) Correct me if I'm wrong, but despite having a sub out, that amp doesn't really roll off the bass from the main speakers. Instead, both the speakers and the sub-out get a full-range signal. I want true bass management. I don't need variable turnover frequencies (although it would be handy), but I do want a true crossover. Hi boomzilla, I have a TA-100 for this type of application with a sub plugin in and it blends perfectly with the satellites even if the Sub summed output of the TA-100 doesn't have bass management, because the subwoofer having itself the Bass management as the great majority of the Sub for this precisely purpose.
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Post by frenchyfranky on Sept 26, 2019 12:05:43 GMT -5
To the best of my knowledge, ALL the AVRs have a crossover. 80 Hz. is typical. www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/marnr1609/marantz-nr1609-slim-7.2-ch-x-50-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.htmlOk it's not an integrated stereo, it's an AVR with bass management relatively small and it does a great job in stereo listening, nice and natural sounding, at 379$ it's a deal. I recently bought this small AVR for my daughter to replace a defective UMC-1, UPA-500 combo and it sounds awesome, everybody enjoy this little AVR even if it is less powerful than the old combo, anyway they never really listening at high volume level.
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Post by frenchyfranky on Sept 26, 2019 15:33:34 GMT -5
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Post by Gary Cook on Sept 26, 2019 22:17:09 GMT -5
I want true bass management. I don't need variable turnover frequencies (although it would be handy), but I do want a true crossover. I have always run my main speakers full range and then, using their natural roll off, blend in the sub woofer. So as long as you have sub woofer with inbuilt volume and a low pass filter you should be able to get a pretty good result. Cheers Gary
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 27, 2019 0:35:33 GMT -5
...So as long as you have sub woofer with inbuilt volume and a low pass filter you should be able to get a pretty good result. Hi Gary Cook - I'm in agreement with you. But I still don't want to do things that way for the following reasons: 1. I sometimes like to run my 12-watt Heathkit tube mono-blocks. They're much happier with they don't have to deal with full-range signals. By using a low-cut filter on my main speakers, I "unload" the little Heathkits of the higher-current bass frequencies, and they can play not only much louder but also much cleaner, with less distortion. 2. I run a variety of main speakers - anything from tiny bookshelf ones to full-range towers. Being able to adjust the turnover frequency allows me to get the best of most of those different types of speakers. 3. I have no control over how quickly the main speakers roll off their bass frequencies - Sealed-box speakers come through here that roll off at 6 dB per octave, ported-box ones come through that roll off at 12. Most (not all, but most) sub crossovers "cut in" the bass at 12 dB per octave. Without an external crossover, I often get a dip or a peak at the crossover frequency due to mismatches. This is not a phasing issue (OK, technically, it is), but can be caused by a disparity in the the attenuation rates of the main speakers vs. the sub. 4. If I'm using main speakers that are truly "full range," the sub crossover won't go to a low enough frequency for a blend. This means that in the 40-50 Hz. region both the main speakers and the sub are playing at the same time, resulting in more thump than desired. Many (most?) don't have the above concerns, and for them, the use of no electronic crossover but the low-pass one on the sub's plate amp works very well. In my specific case, though, I get much better results with an upstream frequency dividing network. Cordially - Boom
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Post by garbulky on Sept 27, 2019 10:27:11 GMT -5
...So as long as you have sub woofer with inbuilt volume and a low pass filter you should be able to get a pretty good result. Hi Gary Cook - I'm in agreement with you. But I still don't want to do things that way for the following reasons: 1. I sometimes like to run my 12-watt Heathkit tube mono-blocks. They're much happier with they don't have to deal with full-range signals. By using a low-cut filter on my main speakers, I "unload" the little Heathkits of the higher-current bass frequencies, and they can play not only much louder but also much cleaner, with less distortion. 2. I run a variety of main speakers - anything from tiny bookshelf ones to full-range towers. Being able to adjust the turnover frequency allows me to get the best of most of those different types of speakers. 3. I have no control over how quickly the main speakers roll off their bass frequencies - Sealed-box speakers come through here that roll off at 6 dB per octave, ported-box ones come through that roll off at 12. Most (not all, but most) sub crossovers "cut in" the bass at 12 dB per octave. Without an external crossover, I often get a dip or a peak at the crossover frequency due to mismatches. This is not a phasing issue (OK, technically, it is), but can be caused by a disparity in the the attenuation rates of the main speakers vs. the sub. 4. If I'm using main speakers that are truly "full range," the sub crossover won't go to a low enough frequency for a blend. This means that in the 40-50 Hz. region both the main speakers and the sub are playing at the same time, resulting in more thump than desired. Many (most?) don't have the above concerns, and for them, the use of no electronic crossover but the low-pass one on the sub's plate amp works very well. In my specific case, though, I get much better results with an upstream frequency dividing network. Cordially - Boom You might do well with a set of used airmotiv 6's. Creimes has one on sale for a nice price. For a smaller room like your office it would be huge amounts of power and bass - I doubt you'd want a subwoofer. You could also go for an Airmotiv T-zero or T1 if you want something tower size. I doubt they would need a sub either.
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Post by Boomzilla on Sept 27, 2019 12:03:01 GMT -5
I just saw one of the VERY BEST SPEAKERS I'VE EVER HEARD for sale on eBay. This is the imaging KING - outperforms everything else I've ever heard.
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