|
Post by brubacca on Sept 27, 2019 13:47:52 GMT -5
I would encourage you to buy them, but I don't believe for one second that you would be Happy with them. They seem to have too little discplacement for your room, unless you have a second smaller system/room that I don't know about.
|
|
|
Post by Gary Cook on Sept 27, 2019 17:02:59 GMT -5
...So as long as you have sub woofer with inbuilt volume and a low pass filter you should be able to get a pretty good result. Hi Gary Cook - I'm in agreement with you. But I still don't want to do things that way for the following reasons: 1. I sometimes like to run my 12-watt Heathkit tube mono-blocks. They're much happier with they don't have to deal with full-range signals. By using a low-cut filter on my main speakers, I "unload" the little Heathkits of the higher-current bass frequencies, and they can play not only much louder but also much cleaner, with less distortion. 2. I run a variety of main speakers - anything from tiny bookshelf ones to full-range towers. Being able to adjust the turnover frequency allows me to get the best of most of those different types of speakers. 3. I have no control over how quickly the main speakers roll off their bass frequencies - Sealed-box speakers come through here that roll off at 6 dB per octave, ported-box ones come through that roll off at 12. Most (not all, but most) sub crossovers "cut in" the bass at 12 dB per octave. Without an external crossover, I often get a dip or a peak at the crossover frequency due to mismatches. This is not a phasing issue (OK, technically, it is), but can be caused by a disparity in the the attenuation rates of the main speakers vs. the sub. 4. If I'm using main speakers that are truly "full range," the sub crossover won't go to a low enough frequency for a blend. This means that in the 40-50 Hz. region both the main speakers and the sub are playing at the same time, resulting in more thump than desired. Many (most?) don't have the above concerns, and for them, the use of no electronic crossover but the low-pass one on the sub's plate amp works very well. In my specific case, though, I get much better results with an upstream frequency dividing network. Cordially - Boom I understand and agree, but from my reading of your original post you were looking for “a computer room integrated amp” and that was what I was responding to. I didn’t consider an environment involving changing amps, full range towers, different subwoofers etc. Hence the simple response, apologies. Cheers Gary
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Sept 27, 2019 18:09:34 GMT -5
My computer room can get complicated...
Yeah, I'd prefer an integrated, but failing to find a stereo one, I think I'll next just look at AVRs.
|
|
|
Post by frenchyfranky on Sept 29, 2019 17:51:29 GMT -5
I just saw one of the VERY BEST SPEAKERS I'VE EVER HEARD for sale on eBay. This is the imaging KING - outperforms everything else I've ever heard. It reminds me a certain Snell Acoustic type Ci 1985-89, my very first falling in love of hi-fi speakers...
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Sept 29, 2019 20:02:43 GMT -5
Does, doesn't it?
|
|
|
Post by frenchyfranky on Sept 30, 2019 0:09:23 GMT -5
Never heard your King, but remember the Snell sounding amazingly live.
|
|
|
Post by garbulky on Sept 30, 2019 9:32:49 GMT -5
I just saw one of the VERY BEST SPEAKERS I'VE EVER HEARD for sale on eBay. This is the imaging KING - outperforms everything else I've ever heard. The pricing seems very reasonable too! Are you thinking of revisiting an old flame?
|
|
|
Post by brubacca on Sept 30, 2019 12:42:05 GMT -5
5 ohm, 86dB efficient. I'd pass on these.
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Sept 30, 2019 13:26:51 GMT -5
The Avalon Symbol speakers are not for me. But if you ever get a chance to hear some, DO IT!
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Oct 5, 2019 16:24:45 GMT -5
Is there any theoretical advantage to isolating audio and video equipment onto different power conditioners? The two conditioners would be plugged into different sockets, but still on the same breaker.
I know that daisy-chaining surge suppressors is NOT recommended for audio gear, but does the same caveat apply to video gear?
Also, assuming that I could have the option of having two surge suppressors in series on the same incoming coax cable connection, would that provide any additional protection to my cable box or TV against surges on the cable system?
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2019 8:36:00 GMT -5
Boom, daisy chain voltage suppressors should not be an issue, they are just passing voltage. I see no advantage separating audio & video. I do however separate my source components from high power draw. There is no "technical" reason why I do other than cheap 'wall warts' can be noisy. I prefer to have fully analogue equipment on seperate line (breaker), but that's just my preference. Since you're only using one power line in (breaker), none of what I stated matters. The issue so many "gurus" don't tell you is the Neutral to Ground voltage ideally should be 0VAC, in real world under 1V is ok. BUT you got wiring problems if it's 2.0-2.5VAC or more. I can explain further if you have high neutral to ground voltage & what to do.
Surge protection, lower clamping voltage indicates better protection. so put lowest value first, best spike protection. Voltage absorption MOV type (joules} Highest value first. Coax cable should be grounded before entering house (check it). I have series coax but only for my convenience of splitting. I figure a cable box strike is their problem not mine, but straight coax to my TV is a problem for me, protect it.
There is a great product on the market called "Power Saver" (under $200) that is wired into the breaker box. It's basically a huge capacitor that adsorbs voltage and gives any inductive load (motors, compressors, etc) a boast when it turns on and lowers the run amperage, thus saving you money, 10-20%. It is an excellent first line of defense. There will be one xn in my new house.
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Oct 6, 2019 17:27:41 GMT -5
Thanks kindly, @texzick - I've got two Monster products - a HTS-1650 and a HTS-3600 Mk. II. My game plan is to route the incoming cable coax through the 1650 and to source the cable box's power from that also. The TV can also be hooked to the 1650. The other (all analog) components will be routed through the 3600. The only exception is the Audio-gd preamp, that must be plugged directly into the wall because of its internal regenerative power supply. Fortunately, I'm running either 12 watt tube amps or the Emotiva PA-1 (low current) power amps, so there won't be any heavy current draw for the 3600. I like the whole-house power-saver idea, and will look into that as well. Thanks - Boom
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Oct 9, 2019 18:40:13 GMT -5
Listening to EVERYTHING, and it's ALL sounding good! Roon on a MacBook Pro with external HDD (in another room - not shown in photo) Oppo 4K player (used as a Roon destination only with SP/DIF output) Denafrips Ares 2 DAC Audio-gd preamp JL Audio CR-2 crossover Emotiva PA-1 monoblocks Paradigm & Velodyne subs Klipsch RP-600M speakers on sand-filled sands All balanced connectors from the Ares on Bi-wired Canare speaker wires Ixos digital interconnect Ixos subwoofer interconnects Monster power for all And curiously, in my room, the little Klipsch bookshelf speakers sound more open, airy, and real than the bigger Emotiva T2 speakers. The T2s can sound a touch boxy in some locations and require a bit more speaker-dancing to find their voice. The smaller Klipches sing just about anywhere.
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Oct 11, 2019 19:25:07 GMT -5
Tis the season... A haze on the far horizon, The infinite, tender sky, The ripe rich tint of the cornfields, And the wild geese sailing high. And all over upland and lowland, The charm of the goldenrod, Some of us call it Autumn, And others call it God. From William Herbert Carruth "Each In His Own Tongue," 1902
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Oct 26, 2019 18:05:52 GMT -5
The next experiment at casa Boom will be one where I'm betting the vast majority of Loungers will have STRONG preconceptions. I have some of my own, but want to at least check to make sure I'm hearing what I think I'm hearing.
My current system (that I think sounds as good as anything I've ever owned) consists of:
Streaming source via USB to Denafrips Ares DAC via XLR to Audio-gd preamplifier via XLR to JL Audio CR-2 line-level electronic crossover (set @100 Hz) via XLR to Emotiva PA-1 monoblock amplifiers via Carnare bi-wire cables to Klipsch RP-600m loudspeakers The JL also feeds 4 subwoofers via RCA unbalanced wiring
The "contender" system will consist of:
Streaming source via USB to Oppo UDP-205 via XLR to Emotiva PA-1 monoblock amplifiers via Carnare bi-wire cables to Klipsch RP-600m loudspeakers The Oppo will also feed one subwoofer via RCA unbalanced wiring
NOTES: The Oppo will be used as a (digital volume control) preamplifier, as a bass-management system, and as a DAC. Note also that while the first system has discrete right and left channel subwoofer feeds, the Oppo will have only a summed, monophonic subwoofer output. Due to the likely inability of the Oppo's subwoofer output chip to drive the paralleled (very low) impedance of multiple subwoofers, the Oppo will be driving only one (as it was designed to do).
The "smart money" is on the first system due to its ability to optimize each of the multiple functions that the Oppo will be asked to perform. And I'm suspecting that the first system will be triumphant (by no small margin), but since it's been a while since I listened to the Oppo alone, I want to revisit that option just so see how well (or not) it does.
Boomzilla
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Oct 29, 2019 21:20:23 GMT -5
Yep - NOW I remember why DYohn told me to use a preamp. All my music loses its dynamics when driving the power amps directly from the Oppo. The tone is fine, but the dynamics are MIA. Boom
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Oct 30, 2019 3:23:45 GMT -5
Variation "B" - Next I'll replace the preamplifier into the system and remove the JL Audio CR-1 crossover. In this configuration, the satellite speakers will be run full-range, and the low-pass crossovers on the subwoofers will be used to blend in the subs below the natural roll-off of the speakers. From what I've read, many (most?) of you run your subs this way. Will it work in my system? I'll find out soon!
Boom
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Nov 1, 2019 15:46:16 GMT -5
Yep - it works fine but I DO miss those subs! Once one gets used to truly full-range sound, it's hard to go back.
|
|
klinemj
Emo VIPs
Honorary Emofest Scribe
Posts: 14,741
|
Post by klinemj on Nov 1, 2019 16:52:33 GMT -5
Yep - it works fine but I DO miss those subs! Once one gets used to truly full-range sound, it's hard to go back. Yes indeed...Once in a while, I turn my sub off to remind me of that. I quickly turn it back on. Mark
|
|
|
Post by boomzilla on Nov 3, 2019 17:00:55 GMT -5
For a while, I've been noticing that whenever my laser printer comes on in my computer room, the lights dim and my UPS always switches to battery mode for a few seconds. The computer room is sucking hind-teat on the whole house's electrical wiring system. So I decided to adapt.
I moved the printer to my bedroom (on a circuit with virtually NOTHING else on it), and enabled wireless (after a massive battle with the printer). But in the end I persevered.
The surprise from all this is that the first page from a cold printer has always been poorly fused and prone to smudging. Now (with a healthier power supply), the first page is (pardon the expression) "laser sharp." So if you have a laser, and the first page is poorly fused, consider getting closer to the house breaker. It made a difference for me.
Boom
|
|