DIY Speaker Stand Project.

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A few weeks ago I started a DIY speaker stand project that just did not work, so I abandoned it.  Here are some pictures from that Screw it up yourself project,

I had some leftover wood from a neghboor's deck project.  I tried to this use it as the poles for the stand.  I bought some wood at Home Depot.  It was not plywood so it ended up flexing, so not stable, and I had difficulty with squareness.  I made a wide base as I was building a stand for two centers to be used a LR speakers in a secondary HT.

FAIL!!!.   I started a new project last week that I will post in later posts.

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I went back to the drawing board.  I decided this time I am going to build stands with 3" PVC pipes (that will be filled with sand), 3/8" threaded steel rod and a 4'x8' oak veneer plywood.   I am building 4 stands, each stand will have three poles.  The pictures below are the cut tubes:

I will be adding detail regard the cutting of the pipe in the following post.

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Cutting the pipes was a bit of an ordeal for me.  I bought an inexpensive mitre hand saw kit (hand saw) to use to cut the pipes.  For each cut I ended up starting with a hacksaw, then, using the mitre saw.  No mater what I did I ended up with slightly skewed cuts.  I used a course file to work on squaring the cuts.  It is not easy to get a really square cut.

After a little research on the internet, I found a better way to do the hand cuts.  Take a piece of paper, wrap it around the PVC pipe to trace your cut line, then do the cut free hand on a work stand.  I found the cut was easier and more true if I rotated the pipe several times during the cut,  These cuts were much better. Even so I needed to spend a lot of time with each pipe filing to work on the square.

If I were to do it again, I would definitely get powered mitre saw for the cuts.

FYI, I will explain the pictures with the washers in my previous post.  I intend to use a 1" Forstner bit to cut recessed holes for threaded steel, and washers.  I intend to use a larger washer on the opposite side of the board for additional support against the thinner wood (nut -washer - wood - washer -nut).  I also figure the two washers an two should help sealing the hole against loss of sand.  I will probable also use glue and caulking for additional sealing. 

In  the picture with the washers you also see a couple pieces of plastic.  These fit into the end of the pipe (like the ends of a mailing tube).  i was thinking this could help seal the sand, but it is recessed so tightening between the washers will probably not work well, so I am probably not going to use them.  I am considering cutting 3'' disks to glue or screw to the board for additional support and to help prevent the PVC from sliding as the steel rod is torqued when I reach that point.

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Wood cuts using a circular saw and a regular hand saw.  No finishing or cleaning the cuts yet.  I have 4 based 16"x16",  two tops of 8"x10" for surrounds, and two 11"x18" tops for 2 centers to be used as LR in a secondary HT.  I may make the bases 12"x12" for the surrounds.

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Well, some new pictures. First post primed with 2 coats.  Next, the tops and bases of the stand routed with 1/2" rounder router bit (not yet sanded).  I cut 2 of my 16"x16" bases down to 12"x"12.  Two surrounds (Polk F/X 1000)that will need a stand have a small trapezoidal base (with built in rubber feet).  They are not small speakers but I needed to cut down the 8"x10" initial cuts so no wood will protrude when the speakers are on the stands.

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Poles painted.   They do need some additional touch up.

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Looks like a lotta work.....but looking good so far! Looking forward to seeing the finished product!