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Post by tchaik on Sept 2, 2014 19:59:53 GMT -5
for all you dc-1 owners out there...
does your dc-1 run warm even when it is "off" i mean when it is turned off by the remote but not by the switch on the back.
is this normal?
tchaik............
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Post by garbulky on Sept 2, 2014 20:17:55 GMT -5
I never tried it on standby. But I can confirm the DC-1 remains very warm almost hot to the touch in the on position. (I like that).
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Post by novisnick on Sept 2, 2014 20:52:41 GMT -5
for all you dc-1 owners out there... does your dc-1 run warm even when it is "off" i mean when it is turned off by the remote but not by the switch on the back. is this normal? tchaik............ Yep, it's called the warm and fuzzy feeling, no charge for the fuzzy,,,,he,,,,,he,,,,,, |
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Post by jlafrenz on Sept 2, 2014 21:10:01 GMT -5
This is normal.
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Post by tchaik on Sept 2, 2014 21:45:47 GMT -5
thanks for the info gents. just checkin..........
tchaik...............
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Post by Poodleluvr on Sept 3, 2014 9:21:44 GMT -5
My DC-1s (2) are warm while off, although the switch on the back is kept in the on position for stby. I've never taken the cover off, but my DC-1s feel even warmer to me in the rear right corner. This "warm" can be defeated by turning the switch on the back to off position.
Remember, the DC-1 was built primarily for the professional studio environment aka "work". When you get to "work" the DC-1 is ready to use.
I've used electronic test equipment, that when plugged-in, incorporated a built-in oven with an oven light to let you know the oven was still on even when the equipment was turned off. Kept it warm, always ready to use.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Sept 3, 2014 9:25:29 GMT -5
Anyone measure the standby draw? I'd probably have to turn off the rear switch.
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Post by Poodleluvr on Sept 3, 2014 9:39:15 GMT -5
I know this for sure.-- As you know the DC-1 has no 12 volt trigger.
As a potential work-a-round on this, I purchased a Niles CS12V to use as a trigger device. BTW, it does not work with the DC-1.
With the DC-1 plugged into the CS-12V and in STBY mode, when using the DC-1 remote control to actually turn on the DC-1, the difference in draw from stby mode to the on mode is not enough difference to operate the Niles CS-12V trigger device. (I called Emo Tech and was informed that this is normal for the DC-1, and it was designed that way.)
And, I believe that I recall Big Dan saying that at Emo HQTRS, they always leave the Stealth monitor speakers "on".
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Post by AudioHTIT on Sept 3, 2014 9:53:16 GMT -5
I know this for sure.-- As you know the DC-1 has no 12 volt trigger. As a potential work-a-round on this, I purchased a Niles CS12V to use as a trigger device. BTW, it does not work with the DC-1. With the DC-1 plugged into the CS-12V and in STBY mode, when using the DC-1 remote control to actually turn on the DC-1, the difference in draw from stby mode to the on mode is not enough difference to operate the Niles CS-12V trigger device. (I called Emo Tech and was informed that this is normal for the DC-1, and it was designed that way.) And, I believe that I recall Big Dan saying that at Emo HQTRS, they always leave the Stealth monitor speakers "on". That's good info and probably indicates it's running close to full steam all the time. The Stealths are also a good example, I'd probably use a DC-1 with some AM5's and/or headphones, I could put the speakers and the DAC on a strip switch. OTOH this would also be my winter road system when extra heat in the room wouldn't hurt. |
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Post by GreenKiwi on Sept 3, 2014 10:41:30 GMT -5
The other problem I have is that if you put it all on a power strip, the dc-1 always goes into standby mode when you flip the switch on. Unfortunately it doesn't have a setting to just turn on, when power is available.
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Post by jevans64 on Sept 3, 2014 11:35:44 GMT -5
The other problem I have is that if you put it all on a power strip, the dc-1 always goes into standby mode when you flip the switch on. Unfortunately it doesn't have a setting to just turn on, when power is available. Mine are on a strip but that isn't really an issue for me since I'm within reach of the DC-1. I think the benefit of being able to turn it off when not in use outweighs the inconvenience of having to manually come out of standby. |
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Post by GreenKiwi on Sept 3, 2014 12:29:03 GMT -5
True... I just wish it had a mode to just come out of standby when power is available.
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Post by Dark Ranger on Sept 3, 2014 13:16:10 GMT -5
Hi tchaik, As several here have confirmed, this is entirely normal. I noticed this as well the day after receiving my DC-1. After enjoying the DC-1 all evening, I put it into standby as is my routine at day's end. The next day I turned it on again and noticed the chassis was warm, about as warm as if I had left it running all night. After some testing and research, I contacted Emotiva to confirm my findings. It is completely normal for the DC-1 to remain warm in standby mode. This is by design. As poodleluvr discovered, the unit is warmer on the right half of the unit. This is also where the primary heatsinks are located according to product photos. I have now owned my DC-1 since July 14, 2014 and have not encountered any issues with this design. If you prefer to shut it off completely, you can flip the rocker switch on the back or use an external power strip or triggered power distribution device to control power flow to the DC-1. Anyone measure the standby draw? I'd probably have to turn off the rear switch. According to my handy Kill-A-Watt P4400, I measured 10 watts with the DC-1 fully powered on and idling, and 9 watts with the DC-1 in standby mode. In standby, the OLED panel turns off, but the transistors, etc. continue to receive power, thus creating heat. As far as temperatures go, my Fluke 62 MAX+ infrared thermometer clocks the right half of the DC-1 chassis ranging from 87°-99° F while in standby mode. The internal components measure higher, but my point is that the chassis temps are nowhere near uncomfortable, let alone a burn hazard. |
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Post by toliandar on Sept 4, 2014 1:51:30 GMT -5
Hi there I'm trying to find the UAC2 driver for the Stealth DC-1; the product manual states it should be on the product page but I can't find it. Anyone got a pointer where I should be looking exactly?
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Post by Dark Ranger on Sept 4, 2014 2:39:29 GMT -5
You can find the latest DC-1 drivers for Windows here. I'd also recommend reading the driver documentation PDF here. If you're running a newish Mac, the DC-1 should work straight out of the box. I have a Late 2011 15" MBP running Mavericks and it works flawlessly over USB. The DC-1 shows up as Speaker. |
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Post by toliandar on Sept 4, 2014 3:27:11 GMT -5
Thanks for the link unfortunately the drivers aren't working and it just asks for the CMEDIA device to be connected. Perhaps this is a Windows 8.1 issue as the drivers are technically only certified for Windows 8. Tried the Schiit drivers as well but to no avail. Will just have to connect it via optical/coax. Are all the inputs considered equal for the DC-1? Nearly everyone seems to have it connected via USB.
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Post by Davecski65 on Sept 4, 2014 5:46:08 GMT -5
Interesting,I noticed ths the other day.Found it weird that it was that Hott when I thought it was off.
Now I just turn the switch off on backside.
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Post by Dark Ranger on Sept 4, 2014 9:30:57 GMT -5
Thanks for the link unfortunately the drivers aren't working and it just asks for the CMEDIA device to be connected. Perhaps this is a Windows 8.1 issue as the drivers are technically only certified for Windows 8. Tried the Schiit drivers as well but to no avail. Will just have to connect it via optical/coax. Are all the inputs considered equal for the DC-1? Nearly everyone seems to have it connected via USB. Interesting indeed. I was going to suggest trying the Schiit drivers, but no-go either. Hmm... I have a Dell laptop running Windows 8.1. I'll try connecting it via USB later today and see if I run into the same issue you mentioned. FYI, my Windows 7 HTPC is connected to the DC-1 via optical. No discernible difference from USB. And with ASRC, jitter is a non-issue. As long as your S/PDIF transmitter can output the sample rates you need, optical is a perfectly acceptable connection method. |
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Post by tchaik on Sept 4, 2014 11:44:27 GMT -5
Thanks for the link unfortunately the drivers aren't working and it just asks for the CMEDIA device to be connected. Perhaps this is a Windows 8.1 issue as the drivers are technically only certified for Windows 8. Tried the Schiit drivers as well but to no avail. Will just have to connect it via optical/coax. Are all the inputs considered equal for the DC-1? Nearly everyone seems to have it connected via USB. Interesting indeed. I was going to suggest trying the Schiit drivers, but no-go either. Hmm... I have a Dell laptop running Windows 8.1. I'll try connecting it via USB later today and see if I run into the same issue you mentioned. FYI, my Windows 7 HTPC is connected to the DC-1 via optical. No discernible difference from USB. And with ASRC, jitter is a non-issue. As long as your S/PDIF transmitter can output the sample rates you need, optical is a perfectly acceptable connection method. so glad i have a mac…. just saying……… no offense to pc users…… tchaik……….. |
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Post by toliandar on Sept 4, 2014 16:35:48 GMT -5
Well if all things are the same I'd prefer to stick with optical then - USB ports are precious!
Never had a driver problem with Windows before.
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