Post by td1836 on Oct 27, 2014 15:08:20 GMT -5
I recently completed a build of the ZRT 2-way kit. I don't post on forums often, but I always rely on the forums and other people's builds to get through mine. So I wanted to share my experiences, which hopefully will be beneficial to others in the future. I was upgrading from a pair of SR-71 speakers I build a while ago. The ZRT speakers are definitely an improvement, especially in midrange clarity, detail, and instrument separation. I absolutely love them and don't think I will ever need to make a speaker change. However, are they 2-3x as good, according to their price? No. For me, I wanted to built some floor standers that I would be happy with forever, and would be the best use of my budget compared to commercially available options.
Here is a quick picture of the final product, and below are all the detailed steps.
I ordered the 2-way kit from Madisound and picked up some 3/4 inch MDF from Lowes. Throughout the build, I followed the standard plans on Zaph's website and didn't make any major modifications to the design. This was my first attempt at veneering anything, and I have to say I enjoyed working with it. I purchased some curly walnut raw veneer from Certainly Wood, and used the HeatLock glue from VeneerSupplies along with an iron to attach the veneer (more details on the veneering method below).
First step was cutting the wood and gluing the sides, and braces together. I only used glue throughout, no screws.
The baffles are 2 pieces of MDF (1.5" total thickness), the inner piece sized to fit inside the box opening and the outer piece sized to be flush with the sides and top. Gluing them together in the correct spot took some precision.
The bases are 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF with a 1/2" undersized piece on top that will provide the appearance separation between the bottom of the speaker and the base itself.
Here is some of the raw walnut veneer before it was cut and applied.
I started by gluing the veneer to the rear panel of the box, as well as the front baffle (which isn't secured to box yet). I have some more pictures of the actual veneering process below. I used a flush trim router bit to trim the edges once the glue was dry.
Next, it was time to cut the holes in the baffles for the drivers and port. I chose to do this after the veneer had been applied to eliminate any chance that I would mess up the precision of these cuts. I know some like to cut the holes in the substrate first, apply the veneer, then cut the holes in the veneer. For me, it was easier just to cut once. The holes were cut with a router using a Jasper circle jig.
Then it was time for the insides. I applied the foam dampening material per the specs to the sides, back, and top. Soldered the crossover wires and installed the crossovers in the bottom of the speaker boxes. I don't have a picture, but I packed the crossover compartment with acousti-stuff. At this point I connected the drivers and clamped the baffles shut so I could do some testing before I sealed them in for good.
Now it was time to start working on the finish. I started with the baffles. My method was as follows:
1) Sanded the veneer to 320 grit
2) Applied 2 coats of Bulls Eye SealCoat (de-waxed shellac)
3) Sanded to 400 grit
4) Wiped on 6 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Semi-gloss, sanding with 400 grit between every 2 coats
Installing the drivers and ports and gluing the baffle to the box.
Now that the baffles were glued on, I was able to attached the side and top pieces of veneer. The veneering method was as follows:
1) Apply the HeatLock glue to both the veneer and the MDF
2) Using a roller, evenly spread the glue across both surfaces
3) Allow glue to dry (about 30 minutes)
4) Place the veneer onto the MDF and align
5) Using a clothes iron set on the low end of the Cotton temp setting, apply heat and pressure to the veneer (start in the center and work out). This activates to bond between the glue on the MDF and veneer. I used an old t-shirt as a separator between the iron and the surface of the veneer. I also used a lot of steam from the iron to minimize cracking in the veneer from the heat drying it out. I probably spent 20-30 minutes of ironing time on each panel.
6) Allow the glue to fully dry (about 1 day)
7) Trim the veneer edges flush using a flush trim router bit
Applying the finish and sanding the rest of the sides.
And finally, the finished product!!
Hope this is helpful to someone.
-Tim
Here is a quick picture of the final product, and below are all the detailed steps.
I ordered the 2-way kit from Madisound and picked up some 3/4 inch MDF from Lowes. Throughout the build, I followed the standard plans on Zaph's website and didn't make any major modifications to the design. This was my first attempt at veneering anything, and I have to say I enjoyed working with it. I purchased some curly walnut raw veneer from Certainly Wood, and used the HeatLock glue from VeneerSupplies along with an iron to attach the veneer (more details on the veneering method below).
First step was cutting the wood and gluing the sides, and braces together. I only used glue throughout, no screws.
The baffles are 2 pieces of MDF (1.5" total thickness), the inner piece sized to fit inside the box opening and the outer piece sized to be flush with the sides and top. Gluing them together in the correct spot took some precision.
The bases are 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF with a 1/2" undersized piece on top that will provide the appearance separation between the bottom of the speaker and the base itself.
Here is some of the raw walnut veneer before it was cut and applied.
I started by gluing the veneer to the rear panel of the box, as well as the front baffle (which isn't secured to box yet). I have some more pictures of the actual veneering process below. I used a flush trim router bit to trim the edges once the glue was dry.
Next, it was time to cut the holes in the baffles for the drivers and port. I chose to do this after the veneer had been applied to eliminate any chance that I would mess up the precision of these cuts. I know some like to cut the holes in the substrate first, apply the veneer, then cut the holes in the veneer. For me, it was easier just to cut once. The holes were cut with a router using a Jasper circle jig.
Then it was time for the insides. I applied the foam dampening material per the specs to the sides, back, and top. Soldered the crossover wires and installed the crossovers in the bottom of the speaker boxes. I don't have a picture, but I packed the crossover compartment with acousti-stuff. At this point I connected the drivers and clamped the baffles shut so I could do some testing before I sealed them in for good.
Now it was time to start working on the finish. I started with the baffles. My method was as follows:
1) Sanded the veneer to 320 grit
2) Applied 2 coats of Bulls Eye SealCoat (de-waxed shellac)
3) Sanded to 400 grit
4) Wiped on 6 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Semi-gloss, sanding with 400 grit between every 2 coats
Installing the drivers and ports and gluing the baffle to the box.
Now that the baffles were glued on, I was able to attached the side and top pieces of veneer. The veneering method was as follows:
1) Apply the HeatLock glue to both the veneer and the MDF
2) Using a roller, evenly spread the glue across both surfaces
3) Allow glue to dry (about 30 minutes)
4) Place the veneer onto the MDF and align
5) Using a clothes iron set on the low end of the Cotton temp setting, apply heat and pressure to the veneer (start in the center and work out). This activates to bond between the glue on the MDF and veneer. I used an old t-shirt as a separator between the iron and the surface of the veneer. I also used a lot of steam from the iron to minimize cracking in the veneer from the heat drying it out. I probably spent 20-30 minutes of ironing time on each panel.
6) Allow the glue to fully dry (about 1 day)
7) Trim the veneer edges flush using a flush trim router bit
Applying the finish and sanding the rest of the sides.
And finally, the finished product!!
Hope this is helpful to someone.
-Tim
How cool !
