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Post by loonytunes on Apr 21, 2015 3:45:02 GMT -5
I'm looking to run a sub with a monoblock amp. One for each sub. The sub is a Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4. I'm going to get one with the sealed 4 cu.ft. flat pack. The second will be a custom build in a 7 cu. ft. slot port enclosure.
I'm thinking either the XPA100 or the XPA1L. Would either of these amps be capable in these applications? Is there a drawback? Your thoughts, please.
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kazoo
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Post by kazoo on Apr 21, 2015 7:59:51 GMT -5
I would not run the XPA1L, it would be over kill and a waste of an amp for a sub. The XPA100 would be fine. Now did you look into the sub amp that Dayton sells. They are not mono but do have all the controls you need to run subs, like phase and x-over points. How will you handle those, receiver?
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Post by bradford on Apr 21, 2015 8:00:59 GMT -5
If you are running them with an XMC-1, you could be limiting your setup options (unless you add a Minidsp). If you want to try the option where Dirac optimized the combined subs you'll want to at least be able to setup separate time delays. You can either add a Minidsp to do this or use an amp with DSP in it like a Crown. I'm looking a the crown XTi series for a similar application. You may also only need one amp because of their power output. The 2002 has 800W per channel at 4 ohms, the 4002 has 1200W per channel at 4 ohms.
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Post by cheapthryl on Apr 21, 2015 8:34:56 GMT -5
I would also recommend the Crown amps.
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stiehl11
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Post by stiehl11 on Apr 21, 2015 8:51:59 GMT -5
Generally speaking, you don't need as detailed amp to run the limited frequency range that a sub requires. What you need is an amp able to give you large amounts of power, quickly. An XPA-1L maybe too resolving of an amp and the XPA-100 may not have enough power depending on what you're going to be using such large subs for. Seriously, look at the Crown amps as suggested by cheapthryl; you can get one that will give you more wattage than either of the 2 amps you mentioned for about $400. |
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Apr 21, 2015 10:15:34 GMT -5
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Post by knucklehead on Apr 21, 2015 10:43:29 GMT -5
The Crown amps are neither less resolving nor are they lacking in power for driving mains or subs. Read Andrew Robinson's review of the Crown XLS amp for more. The Behringer Inuke with built in DSP is adjustable for each channel is what many DIY sub builders use. It would have no problem driving two subs of just about any size and you'll save a bunch of money. I wouldn't waste money on a pair of consumer grade amps when a single pro amp will do the job - and arguably a better job at that. |
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Post by Gary Cook on Apr 21, 2015 21:24:12 GMT -5
I currently use an XPA-100 as my sub amp for a 17" driver in a dual ported 140 litre enclosure. For music it is easily the best power amp I have had, which includes all manner of professional amps, Crown, Behringer etc. As a comparison I did try an XPA-1L with the same sub and I honestly couldn't pick a difference. With 400 watts into 4 ohms it has plenty of impact, slam, punch etc for movies.
Cheers
Gary
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2015 23:39:15 GMT -5
There has bee MUCH talk of the crown xls amps going into protection when being used as sub amps. I haven't had a chance to test my xls1500 first hand... yet. But there is quite the thread about it over on the forum "that must not be mentioned".. The inukes are excellent but need a fan swap. I absolutely love my sanway clone amps. Also need fan swaps.. loonytunes If your doing a ported enclosure you'll need some sort of dsp to implement a hpf to protect the Dayton driver from bottoming out under tuning. |
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Post by bolle on Apr 22, 2015 1:19:56 GMT -5
Yamaha P7000S is silent and works great...
I also used the PA 7-350 for 5 speakers and 2 Eminence Lab-12 without problems.
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Post by wizardofoz on Apr 22, 2015 3:15:56 GMT -5
I m considering a similar setup as I have a few dead subs (plate amps blown) and have fitted a couple of them with binding posts direct to the driver. I too am wondering without a DSP if the XMC-1 and Dirac will be able to manage the sub with respect to levels, phase and delays etc without having to resort to a miniDSP.
While I have a miniDSP 2x4 and also a miniDSP PWR-ICE-125 I have them in other projects at this time.
I was planning to use an old NAD 2200 power amp or perhaps a crown CE1000 that have laying around unused for an amp. Also have a few UPA-1's handy too.
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Post by loonytunes on May 28, 2015 15:10:35 GMT -5
Thanks for all the replys.
Honestly, I really don't like the look of most sub amps, Crown, Beringer etc. Now, I realise, looks are really not the best criteria for picking an amp, but would like my amp stack to be all Emo.
I am running the Sherbourn PT-7030 and haven't looked into the parametric much. I run my current 2 ch with no eq. I am not opposed to a mini-dsp should I need one.
My main concern is, with a small sealed enclosure the power demands are higher than with the ported design. Sealed 1000 watts vs slot port which should only need about half that. I dont want to have to buy a different amp once I get the ported sub finished. I do plan to run 2 subs at some point, but I simply can't fit two of the huge ported enclosures in my current house. Well, I could but geez, talk about overkill.
This all stems from buying the driver for a 7.5 ft 3 slot port design and currently do not have the time to build it. I thought for now, I would buy a 4 ft 3 knockdown and use that to get by. I currently have a small 10" Boston sub I picked up for cheap and it's just not getting the job done.
I have considered the Dayton plate amp, but the knockdown they sell for this driver does not have a cutout for the amp. I could cut it out and install the amp but, I don't think the enclosure figures in volume for the amp.
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Post by stads77 on May 28, 2015 15:19:53 GMT -5
The plate amp would be fine inside of that box. I don't think the sub performance would change much due to that small amount of space being taken up in the box. Maybe add an extra bit of poly fill inside, but even that is unnecessary. I think the difference between 3.9 cuft and 4.0 is nothing to worry about with sealed enclosure.
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Post by Gary Cook on May 28, 2015 15:21:59 GMT -5
I originally had a 9" long by 9" wide and 2" deep plate amp surface mounted (no cut out) to the rear of the sub enclosure. I just screwed 4 pieces of timber 9" x 2" x 2" to the rear of the enclosure then screwed the plate amp to the timber. When I progressed to a separate power amp I just removed the timber batons and patched the screw holes.
Cheers
Gary
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Post by loonytunes on May 28, 2015 15:32:16 GMT -5
Probably right stads.
According to PE, the amp needs 5.5" of clearance into the enclosure. At the very least I would have to cut into the bracing.
Perhaps just going with their C1500K or the T1504K. I think the price is right and I could resell when I get the ported built. Kind of hard to sell an empty box.
On second thought, a passive with no amp will be tough to sell as well.
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