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Post by unsound on Apr 25, 2015 9:20:20 GMT -5
I bought a pair of XPA-1Ls in Jan and absolutely love them. Last week I got the XMC and moved the 1Ls into my HT setup to add to the XPA-5 that was already there. I also have 2 SVS PB-12 NSD subs in my HT. This past week, my 15A breaker to the HT room has tripped every night. It doesn't seem to happen during loud scenes, but after an extended time. So, if I have the setup on for a couple hours, no issues even with high volume. But, if I get to 3-4 hours, it trips. Any suggestions are welcome - well, other than "Get a 20A dedicated circuit" I do really like the 1Ls and would like not to have to sell them, even though I know the XPA-5 will be plenty for my HT.
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Apr 25, 2015 9:29:55 GMT -5
Is it a fuse or circuit breaker. If a breaker, try replacing it.
Mark
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bootman
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Post by bootman on Apr 25, 2015 9:32:42 GMT -5
You should be able to see wattage usage on everything connected to that circuit now. List them. Then know that 15A*120V = 1800W Can't fight simple math.  |
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Post by unsound on Apr 25, 2015 9:33:58 GMT -5
It's a breaker, sorry. Corrected the post.
So, the behavior isn't to be expected where it's tripping after a few hours of use and you think it's a bum breaker?
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Post by unsound on Apr 25, 2015 9:37:33 GMT -5
You should be able to see wattage usage on everything connected to that circuit now. List them. Then know that 15A*120V = 1800W Can't fight simple math. I was using the VA on the power supplies. The Amps by themselves bring me to 2100VA, which is17.5A at 120V. But, I didn't think they draw that current at all volumes. |
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bootman
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Post by bootman on Apr 25, 2015 10:12:47 GMT -5
You should be able to see wattage usage on everything connected to that circuit now. List them. Then know that 15A*120V = 1800W Can't fight simple math. I was using the VA on the power supplies. The Amps by themselves bring me to 2100VA, which is17.5A at 120V. But, I didn't think they draw that current at all volumes. No they don't, but is that all you have on that circuit? Also in class A mode you are at max all of the time regardless of music level. |
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Post by unsound on Apr 25, 2015 10:30:19 GMT -5
No they don't, but is that all you have on that circuit? Also in class A mode you are at max all of the time regardless of music level. The amps, the 2 subs, the XMC and my plasma TV. Essentially, what surprises me is that the tripping is related to length of usage and not to volume or source material. For instance cranking up the intro scene/music on Game of Thrones didn't trip it. Is that normal or does it indicate something unusual? I only switch to class A for music and that triggers the XPA -5 into standby and it hasn't tripped in those situations, but I also haven't had music going for a few hours non-stop. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Apr 25, 2015 10:36:43 GMT -5
It's a breaker, sorry. Corrected the post. So, the behavior isn't to be expected where it's tripping after a few hours of use and you think it's a bum breaker? I would doubt you're overloading the circuit with gear. You could use something like a Kill-O-Watt and monitor each device, or the whole if your on some kind of power strip. It could be a loose connection at the breaker or plug arching and generating heat. If your experienced with electrical work you could check the connections or swap two breakers (which would also tighten the connections). Of course this is potentially deadly work so if you don't know what you're doing call an experienced electrician to help. ⚡️ |
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Post by garbulky on Apr 25, 2015 10:44:38 GMT -5
There may be a short going on with your speaker wires (stray ends touching), your interconnects, or your power cables. What I would do is unplug everything and replug it one by one and wait before plugging in a new device to see when it trips. Then you'll know which unit is doing it. Now, it is possible you may just have poor voltage supply at your house and any kind of load makes the voltage eventually swing too much and do something wierd. Does anything run or stop running when it trips? Like the AC just kicked in (or off), the dryer kicks on? Lights dim?
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Post by unsound on Apr 25, 2015 10:48:00 GMT -5
I would doubt you're overloading the circuit with gear. You could use something like a Kill-O-Watt and monitor each device, or the whole if your on some kind of power strip. It could be a loose connection at the breaker or plug arching and generating heat. If your experienced with electrical work you could check the connections or swap two breakers (which would also tighten the connections). Of course this is potentially deadly work so if you don't know what you're doing call an experienced electrician to help. ⚡️ I definitely don't have any experience with electrical stuff and, from what I hear, music sounds better when you're alive, so I'll need to call in the professionals. |
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bootman
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Post by bootman on Apr 25, 2015 10:58:24 GMT -5
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jlamo
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Post by jlamo on Apr 25, 2015 15:49:11 GMT -5
You can get a inexpensive amp meter at harbor freight and clamp it around the hot wire that connect to the breaker and see how many amps you are pulling. I bet it doesn't pull 6-7 amps . I would like to see how many amps the xpr series really pull. Bet not much.
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Post by autiger on Apr 25, 2015 20:34:58 GMT -5
sounds like a faulty a faulty breaker. get an electrician to check it and/or see how hard to run another 15a or 20a line to your room. Could you run it under the house (easiest if you have a crawl space) or in the attic and drop it down.
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Post by knucklehead on Apr 25, 2015 21:12:09 GMT -5
Breakers trip when they get too much juice (amperage) drawing through them. Specifically an electromagnetic switch. More current flow creates more magnetism until it overcomes the forces that normally hold it in place and the lights go out. If you are not over-drawing on that circuit but it still trips then you probably have a faulty breaker. Its a 10 minute job for an electrician.
If you don't know how to work inside electrical panels get help! In the meantime you could run a short (and stout) extension cord and isolate the amps from the rest of the gear. If you own your own home it might be a good time to run 220v to the theater room. Most Emotiva gear will run off 220v just fine and it relieves the rest of your gear from experiencing low power. Which is a real possibility - electronics gear don't like voltage drops.
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Post by unsound on Apr 25, 2015 21:29:20 GMT -5
I actually purchased a new home and it hasn't been a year yet. So, I will have the builder come and check it out. Thanks for all the input - it does sound like I may have a faulty breaker, which is what I was thinking/hoping. Surprisingly, they put a 20A breaker going to the dining room and only 15A to the theater room  |
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Post by knucklehead on Apr 25, 2015 21:35:49 GMT -5
It would be easy to switch those breakers but you'll need to confirm that you have 12ga wire running to the theater room to use a 20a breaker on that line. Often contractors put all 12ga throughout the home and cheap out when they get to installing the breakers.
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Post by unsound on Apr 25, 2015 21:48:15 GMT -5
It would be easy to switch those breakers but you'll need to confirm that you have 12ga wire running to the theater room to use a 20a breaker on that line. Often contractors put all 12ga throughout the home and cheap out when they get to installing the breakers. Oh, that would be awesome. I'll ask. There's really nothing connected in the dining room that would draw even 5 Amps. |
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Post by ttocs on Apr 25, 2015 23:02:32 GMT -5
I would agree with those above that mentioned "loose connections" as a first place to look. Loose connections can create phantom overload conditions due to wires heating up.
A faulty breaker can be determined by swapping with another of the same type/size in the panel. It's not very common to have multiple faulty breakers.
The breaker probably isn't an Arc Fault type because the room isn't a bedroom, but if it "is" arc fault then a number of devices and conditions can trip it because they are more sensitive. Some brands are overly sensitive and can trip with a single low wattage desk lamp with a low quality on/off switch.
And yes, it's common these days to use all 12 gauge wire, even though some circuits are designed for 15A usage. If this is the case then replace the 15A with a 20A. But - I agree that with the room having been designed as a theater, all the circuits in that room really should be 20A.
A qualified electrician can investigate all of this pretty quickly. |
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Post by deltadube on Apr 25, 2015 23:19:11 GMT -5
put a new circuit into the ht room maybe 2 just for fun..
cheers
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bootman
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Post by bootman on Apr 26, 2015 6:51:54 GMT -5
You can get a inexpensive amp meter at harbor freight and clamp it around the hot wire that connect to the breaker and see how many amps you are pulling. I bet it doesn't pull 6-7 amps . I would like to see how many amps the xpr series really pull. Bet not much. It will all depend on the type of speaker (and crossover design) attached to it. If you put a big enough 8ohm resister on them and crank it up you can easily trip a 15A line. www.audioholics.com/amplifier-reviews/emotiva-xpr1-amplifier/emotiva-xpr1-amplifier-measurementsBut we usually don't hook up resistors to amps. The closest commonly available speaker that acts this way would be maggies. This is why they have earned the reputation as being power hungry.  |
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