|
|
Post by ÈlTwo on Sept 30, 2015 9:31:49 GMT -5
I too can't connect. My XMC-1 is on a wired connection (IP is something like 192.168.0.19) and the iPhone is wireless at 192.168.1.6 Everything else in my home can connect wired to wireless. Do you have two different DHCP servers? The first three octets are going have to be the same for the XMC-1 and whatever device you're using for control. So, assuming your DHCP server is at 192.168.0.x, your iPhone has to have an address of 192.168.0.y. (was busy posting, but read AudioHTIT's post before mine) |
|
|
|
Post by socketman on Sept 30, 2015 9:34:09 GMT -5
> There's at least 1 on the lounge that has 2 XMCs. I have 2 XMC-1's and downloaded the App tonight. From what little time I've played with it it works really well. Immediately found both XMC-1's and controls them well. I'm happy ! This is IOS with version 8. I can start the app and turn on the XMC and turn it off. But if the XMC is already on and I start the app the button on the app is orange, I touch it and it goes blue and I can use the app. After that the app will shut the XMC down when I am done. I would expect the app to recognize the fact the XMC is already on and activate itself, other than that its all good. |
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on Sept 30, 2015 11:26:26 GMT -5
Well, after a couple days with the XMC-1 App(s) here are my initial thoughts. They both work very well for me, I haven't had any connectivity or display issues. Some of the buttons have a small 'hot spot', so on occasion I will press a button and nothing happens, I have to more carefully press the exact spot. Unlike some here, my Power buttons echo my XMC's buttons, if my XMC's power is on, the button is blue and I don't have to press it, if my XMC is off the App's button is orange and pressing it turns the unit on. Zone 2 works the same way. I expect this is how the App is supposed to work. Edit: I'm using video standby
I very much like the feedback, or status info like the OLED screen, trim levels, mode status, loudness and preset state. I think this separates this App from just the remote or even the Harmony App, the Harmony has lots of features, buttons, and is very powerful, but no feedback.
Currently I like the iPhone version better; cleaner look, more features. The iPad version looks a little clunky in comparison, maybe clean up the center buttons, certainly keep the features in parity with the iPhone (Loudness & Dim missing on the iPad). Here are my 'update' suggestions:
- Add system messages and menus to the OLED function (just as they're mirrored with the OSD). It not only useful to easily read these messages, but would allow you to setup or change options remotely (without viewing the XMC-1 or TV).
- On the Selections screen: Give more info about the XMC-1 that was found, IP and MAC addresses, maybe even the address of the device running the App. This could help with troubleshooting (and add a slight geek factor), as suggested maybe a checkbox to skip this page if all connectivity is the same.
- Several have commented on the Main volume fader, but I like it. It's good for rough settings before using the buttons to fine tune, it's nice for a quick slide down when the phone rings and back up when you want. Some may want to set the XMC-1's max level if they are worried about their speakers. I especially like the Zone 2 volume slider, I sat on the front porch last night and used it to adjust the level. The buttons are fine, but I wouldn't want to lose the fader
- Needs tone controls, probably with Loudness, maybe a whole screen with all on the fly audio tuning functions together: tone, loudness, trims, modes, etc. It would be nice to directly select or compare modes without scrolling (discrete buttons).
- To be really complete I'd like much of the remote command set exposed, especially discrete inputs, I wonder if there's any EQ info, speaker distance or level info that could be queried and displayed? This is low priority back page stuff, but nice to have.
All in all I think this is a nice and welcome App that mostly needs some polish, a couple features, and a little more feedback - the iPhone version actually looks great - my final expectations are probably higher for the iPad.
Edit: My tests were done on an iPhone 6, and an iPad Air, both using iOS 9.0.1
|
|
|
|
Post by geebo on Sept 30, 2015 11:36:31 GMT -5
This is IOS with version 8. I can start the app and turn on the XMC and turn it off. But if the XMC is already on and I start the app the button on the app is orange, I touch it and it goes blue and I can use the app. After that the app will shut the XMC down when I am done. I would expect the app to recognize the fact the XMC is already on and activate itself, other than that its all good. Are you using Video Standby? |
|
|
|
Post by socketman on Sept 30, 2015 12:05:52 GMT -5
I am not sure of the terminology but its set to start up quick and it will pass video when off so I would say yes.
|
|
|
|
Post by geebo on Sept 30, 2015 12:10:13 GMT -5
I am not sure of the terminology but its set to start up quick and it will pass video when off so I would say yes. Yes, that's Video Standby and explains why you can turn yours on with the app. I wonder if it may have something to do with the startup color of the power button in the app... |
|
KeithL
Administrator 
Posts: 10,261
|
Post by KeithL on Sept 30, 2015 13:26:17 GMT -5
Actually, many wireless routers use a different subnet for their WiFi clients and their wired clients - but, if so, then the router should also be configured to route between them. (You might check the router's settings and see if there are any security options telling it NOT to route certain protocols between those two networks and, if so, disable them.) I too can't connect. My XMC-1 is on a wired connection (IP is something like 192.168.0.19) and the iPhone is wireless at 192.168.1.6 Everything else in my home can connect wired to wireless. It's unusual to have two different subnets in your home, unless you set it up that way, or you have a guest network. 192.168.0.x is a different IP network than 192.168.1.x, and the App may only scan the network it's on. Do you know why you have two networks, or was that a typo? |
|
|
|
Post by millst on Sept 30, 2015 14:04:50 GMT -5
The problem with different subnets is that broadcasts don't normally traverse them. The auto discovery of the XMC-1 is done through a broadcast. Unless the router behaves in a somewhat unconventional manner, the application won't be able to find the XMC-1.
-tm
|
|
|
|
Post by ÈlTwo on Sept 30, 2015 14:45:53 GMT -5
Actually, many wireless routers use a different subnet for their WiFi clients and their wired clients - but, if so, then the router should also be configured to route between them. (You might check the router's settings and see if there are any security options telling it NOT to route certain protocols between those two networks and, if so, disable them.) It's unusual to have two different subnets in your home, unless you set it up that way, or you have a guest network. 192.168.0.x is a different IP network than 192.168.1.x, and the App may only scan the network it's on. Do you know why you have two networks, or was that a typo? I did not know that many wireless routers used different subnets. Out of the dozen different wireless routers I'm using at work and at home, including dual-band, all of them use same first three octets, but those routers are only capable of running one DHCP server. |
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on Sept 30, 2015 14:51:19 GMT -5
Actually, many wireless routers use a different subnet for their WiFi clients and their wired clients - but, if so, then the router should also be configured to route between them. (You might check the router's settings and see if there are any security options telling it NOT to route certain protocols between those two networks and, if so, disable them.) I did not know that many wireless routers used different subnets. Out of the dozen different wireless routers I'm using at work and at home, including dual-band, all of them use same first three octets, but those routers are only capable of running one DHCP server. I agree and still would say multiple subnets are 'unusual'. If you do have them you can still use a single DHCP server by setting the DHCP 'Helper' address to let it know it should also service the other subnet, the helper address function is actually on the router to let it know to forward the packet to the server's subnet. Again, it's not typical in home or small business, but I used it in a large enterprise network. |
|
KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,261
|
Post by KeithL on Sept 30, 2015 16:54:29 GMT -5
I don't know what the percentages are, but I've seen a few set up that way (it really shouldn't matter since, if the router is set to its defaults, then it should be configured to route between the two networks it is connected to anyway). There are a lot of ways in which most home and lower-end routers are usually configured - but they aren't requirements. For example, if the first three octets are the same, then all the addresses you get with different numbers in that last octet will be on the same subnet AS LONG AS YOUR NETMASK IS 255.255.255.0. However, if you use a netmask of 255.255.255.128 then, even if the first three octets are the same, all the addresses from 0 - 127 will be on one subnet and all the addresses between 128 - 255 will be on a different one. Different netmasks will set different "dividing lines". And, while a simple DHCP server may only serve one range, and on a first-come first-served basis, some of the fancier ones allow you to set multiple address ranges, and to exclude certain addresses from being used, or "hard assign" certain addresses to specific devices that require a fixed address. The DHCP servers on some home routers are also limited in terms of how many devices they can "keep track of" simultaneously - sometimes as few as five or ten. What happens then is that, once you hit that limit, the router simply refuses to give IP addresses to any more devices; then, since devices not currently being used "age out" and are dropped from the list after several hours, it "mysteriously" starts working again once a few devices have aged off the list. (That's one reason why rebooting the router often helps with odd problems; because rebooting the router clears the routing tables and DHCP assignment lists.) Another issue I sometimes see is that some customers have two different cable modems or routers in different rooms. In that situation, the devices connected to each cable modem are on its network, which it will route to the Internet, but there is no route connecting the two networks to each other. (The route to the Internet is "one way"; it will route outbound traffic from your browser or app to the Internet, and allow replies to your outbound traffic to enter your network, but will normally block other inbound traffic from entering. This is great for security, but it means that devices connected to one router probably won't be able to connect to devices connected to the other - unless you make special configuration settings on both routers to "open an inbound port" to allow traffic in from outside, or add a route to allow traffic on each router's subnet to pass directly between them.) A "cable modem" or "WiFi router" is actually a rather complex little device. Most contain a WiFi access point (the part that handles the radio); a cable modem (the part that connects to the cable itself); a switch (the part that connects the four wired ports together directly if yours has four Ethernet ports); a router (which routes packets between the Internet, the WiFi subnet, and the wired Ethernet subnet); and a DHCP server. Luckily, there are default settings that work most of the time, so you don't have to configure them all - unless you're trying to do something interesting  Also note that the reason certain addresses seem to be very common is that specific ranges of addresses are designated as "private" - which means that they are intended for use on "in home" networks "behind" a NAT router (they won't route over the Internet even if they accidentally get connected directly to it). Therefore, almost all properly configured routers will assign addresses within these ranges to devices connected to them.... The private IP addresses are: IP addresses: 10.0.0.0 -- 10.255.255.255 IP addresses: 172.16.0.0 -- 172.31.255.255 IP addresses: 192.168.0.0 – 192.168.255.255 Since getting this wrong will often result in weird problems that are difficult to track down, it's usually better to leave the default settings unless you know exactly what you're doing. (And, since routers do occasionally get confused, if something that seems like it should work doesn't, powering your cable modem and routers off for a few minutes, then on again, often cures all sorts of occasional weird problems.) Actually, many wireless routers use a different subnet for their WiFi clients and their wired clients - but, if so, then the router should also be configured to route between them. (You might check the router's settings and see if there are any security options telling it NOT to route certain protocols between those two networks and, if so, disable them.) I did not know that many wireless routers used different subnets. Out of the dozen different wireless routers I'm using at work and at home, including dual-band, all of them use same first three octets, but those routers are only capable of running one DHCP server. |
|
|
|
Post by villock on Sept 30, 2015 17:02:08 GMT -5
It's gone...it was pretty slick while I was using it earlier today  |
|
|
|
Post by wilburthegoose on Sept 30, 2015 18:28:17 GMT -5
I too can't connect. My XMC-1 is on a wired connection (IP is something like 192.168.0.19) and the iPhone is wireless at 192.168.1.6 Everything else in my home can connect wired to wireless. It's unusual to have two different subnets in your home, unless you set it up that way, or you have a guest network. 192.168.0.x is a different IP network than 192.168.1.x, and the App may only scan the network it's on. Do you know why you have two networks, or was that a typo? I did it that way on purpose - I have Verizon FiOS, and my own wireless router (dual band, faster). I have the "0" for the wired, "1" for the wireless. Both have the same subnet mask: 255.255.255.0. Dirac picks up the XMC-1 from my wireless laptop perfectly. And all my other stuff works perfectly - Wired <--> Wireless. (Reason - the VZ-provided router has a crappy wireless functionality) |
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on Sept 30, 2015 18:52:20 GMT -5
It's unusual to have two different subnets in your home, unless you set it up that way, or you have a guest network. 192.168.0.x is a different IP network than 192.168.1.x, and the App may only scan the network it's on. Do you know why you have two networks, or was that a typo? I did it that way on purpose - I have Verizon FiOS, and my own wireless router (dual band, faster). I have the "0" for the wired, "1" for the wireless. Both have the same subnet mask: 255.255.255.0. Dirac picks up the XMC-1 from my wireless laptop perfectly. And all my other stuff works perfectly - Wired <--> Wireless. (Reason - the VZ-provided router has a crappy wireless functionality) So as millst notes above, broadcasts are not normally routed by design, this is to reduce network traffic and broadcast storms. If the App is using a broadcast to find the XMC-1, then your router must forward the broadcast to the adjacent network. You could check your router configuration to see if you can forward broadcasts. My preference would be to use your wireless router in bridge mode, extending the wired network. This would eliminate special router settings like this and also allow DHCP to easily service wired and wireless from a single configuration. But if you've done it this way for a reason, you'll just have to work with these issues. |
|
|
|
Post by millst on Sept 30, 2015 20:43:23 GMT -5
It would be nice of Emotiva to add a manual configuration option (enter name and IP). The rest of the protocol is regular UDP and would be easily routed.
On the other hand, I'm not surprised it isn't in there since it makes things more complicated for regular users. If one creates a network that is above average home complexity, that person can probably get things working on his/her own.
-tm
|
|
|
|
Post by JNieves on Sept 30, 2015 20:45:48 GMT -5
See, now this is something I don't care for. If my XMC-1 is already on , should I really have to hit the power button. And the buttons along the bottom being grey look as though they are dead and when first tried the app I was waiting for them to change to an active color. I think he meant his unit was turned off, indicated by the yellow power button. If the XMC-1 is already on then the button is blue and you don't have to push it. No, my unit was on and the button in the app was yellow. I touched the yellow button and the app came to life. it's like Socketman said. |
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on Sept 30, 2015 21:13:15 GMT -5
I think he meant his unit was turned off, indicated by the yellow power button. If the XMC-1 is already on then the button is blue and you don't have to push it. No, my unit was on and the button in the app was yellow. I touched the yellow button and the app came to life. it's like Socketman said. Got it, since then several have reported this. Do you have video standby on or off? |
|
|
|
Post by ÈlTwo on Sept 30, 2015 21:20:45 GMT -5
My preference would be to use your wireless router in bridge mode, extending the wired network. This would eliminate special router settings like this and also allow DHCP to easily service wired and wireless from a single configuration. But if you've done it this way for a reason, you'll just have to work with these issues. My XMC-1, Oppo, and XBox are on the network via a bridged router, since I'm too lazy to do another cable run. |
|
|
|
Post by geebo on Sept 30, 2015 21:25:12 GMT -5
My preference would be to use your wireless router in bridge mode, extending the wired network. This would eliminate special router settings like this and also allow DHCP to easily service wired and wireless from a single configuration. But if you've done it this way for a reason, you'll just have to work with these issues. My XMC-1, Oppo, and XBox are on the network via a bridged router, since I'm too lazy to do another cable run. I do the same with my XMC, Oppo and TV. And I'm able to stream 4K Amazon content to the TV just fine. |
|
|
|
Post by AudioHTIT on Sept 30, 2015 21:31:39 GMT -5
My XMC-1, Oppo, and XBox are on the network via a bridged router, since I'm too lazy to do another cable run. I do the same with my XMC, Oppo and TV. And I'm able to stream 4K Amazon content to the TV just fine. Things are pretty cushy in the geebo household, streaming 4K willy nilly through the air!  |
|
