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Post by geebo on Mar 16, 2016 13:17:45 GMT -5
Oh, and what are you going to power it with?
And is Putty required to program the unit?
Any old 5.1 volt .5 watt Zener diode and 1K ohm 1/4 watt resistor okay?
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Mar 16, 2016 14:27:49 GMT -5
Oh, and what are you going to power it with? And is Putty required to program the unit? When the Arduino is connected to your computer it gets power from the USB. Otherwise there is a barrel connector that will accept 12V with the UNO. The USB link is used to program the Ardunio, but once programmed it becomes a serial port on the Arduino. Putty is free and it is an ANSI compliant terminal(Serial Link) program allowing cursor control, screen erasing, color and text positioning. This is only used to get the system up and running with the delay parameters you wish. After that the LEDs on the unit give you status info. I'm using a 5.0V Zenier and 10K 1/4W resistor. There's no real current draw here! |
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Post by geebo on Mar 16, 2016 14:29:04 GMT -5
Oh, and what are you going to power it with? And is Putty required to program the unit? When the Arduino is connected to your computer it gets power from the USB. Otherwise there is a barrel connector that will accept 12V with the UNO. The USB link is used to program the Ardunio, but once programmed it becomes a serial port on the Arduino. Putty is free and it is an ANSI compliant terminal(Serial Link) program allowing cursor control, screen erasing, color and text positioning. This is only used to get the system up and running with the delay parameters you wish. After that the LEDs on the unit give you status info. Could the XMC USB port power it? |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Mar 16, 2016 14:30:42 GMT -5
See previous post which I edited.
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Mar 16, 2016 14:32:42 GMT -5
Could the XMC USB port power it? Maybe the Ardunio, but I want the trigger outputs on their own 12V supply |
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Post by geebo on Mar 16, 2016 14:36:15 GMT -5
Could the XMC USB port power it? Maybe the Ardunio, but I want the trigger outputs on their own 12V supply Ah, okay. So just a 12v wall wart with enough current then? I've ordered the parts. Wish me luck... |
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Post by millst on Mar 16, 2016 17:15:26 GMT -5
You could just splice off the 12V supply for the Arduino (if it has enough spare amps). No point in having two 12v wall warts.
-tm
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Post by geebo on Mar 17, 2016 11:19:45 GMT -5
So after connecting the Arduino and uploading the sketch I assume I would then start Putty? And if so, then what? Forgive my ignorance on this. I'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row before the parts arrive. Thanks, Chuck Chuck Elliot |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Mar 17, 2016 13:05:04 GMT -5
So after connecting the Arduino and uploading the sketch I assume I would then start Putty? And if so, then what? Forgive my ignorance on this. I'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row before the parts arrive. Thanks, Chuck Chuck ElliotYou probably want to get some male to female jumper wires to connect the relay board to the Arduino. The same place that I gave you that sells the relay board has them. Have you loaded the Arduino IDE and transferred the files I linked above to your documents folder? Compile and upload the program with the IDE and then switch to Putty. I will be gone for a week starting Sunday. |
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Post by geebo on Mar 17, 2016 13:12:04 GMT -5
So after connecting the Arduino and uploading the sketch I assume I would then start Putty? And if so, then what? Forgive my ignorance on this. I'm just trying to get all my ducks in a row before the parts arrive. Thanks, Chuck Chuck ElliotYou probably want to get some male to female jumper wires to connect the relay board to the Arduino. The same place that I gave you that sells the relay board has them. Have you loaded the Arduino IDE and transferred the files I linked above to your documents folder? Compile and upload the program with the IDE and then switch to Putty. I will be gone for a week starting Sunday. Thanks, I don't have the parts yet. Tomorrow they should be here. But I downloaded all the software and figured I would have to compile and upload to the Arduino. Then I just start up Putty and select the proper com port? The relay board doesn't require connection for that, does it? And thanks for the tip on the jumper wires. Got some coming. |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Mar 17, 2016 14:27:34 GMT -5
I don't have the parts yet. Tomorrow they should be here. But I downloaded all the software and figured I would have to compile and upload to the Arduino. Then I just start up Putty and select the proper com port? The relay board doesn't require connection for that, does it? And thanks for the tip on the jumper wires. Got some coming. No the interface should run just fine with just the Arduino. I also have a newer version that displays a trigger count-down while it's waiting to turn on/off. I'll post a link tonight. |
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Post by geebo on Mar 17, 2016 14:30:41 GMT -5
I don't have the parts yet. Tomorrow they should be here. But I downloaded all the software and figured I would have to compile and upload to the Arduino. Then I just start up Putty and select the proper com port? The relay board doesn't require connection for that, does it? And thanks for the tip on the jumper wires. Got some coming. No the interface should run just fine with just the Arduino. I also have a newer version that displays a trigger count-down while it's waiting to turn on/off. I'll post a link tonight. Thanks, I'll watch for it. What's the max delay time? And what about when I run Putty? Do I just select the proper com port and there it is? |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Mar 17, 2016 15:15:23 GMT -5
No the interface should run just fine with just the Arduino. I also have a newer version that displays a trigger count-down while it's waiting to turn on/off. I'll post a link tonight. Thanks, I'll watch for it. What's the max delay time? And what about when I run Putty? Do I just select the proper com port and there it is? Turn on delay is 1-60 seconds Turn off is 1-999 seconds ( about 16 min. ) Baudrate = 38400 These are all adjustable inside the program. |
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Post by geebo on Mar 17, 2016 15:21:28 GMT -5
Thanks, I'll watch for it. What's the max delay time? And what about when I run Putty? Do I just select the proper com port and there it is? Turn on delay is 1-60 seconds Turn off is 1-999 seconds ( about 16 min. ) Baudrate = 38400 These are all adjustable inside the program. Awesome! Thanks again. I'm looking forward to trying it out. Do you have yours complete and fully operational now? |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Mar 17, 2016 18:24:50 GMT -5
Awesome! Thanks again. I'm looking forward to trying it out. Do you have yours complete and fully operational now? No, I'm having problems with the plastic enclosure I bought. With going away next week, I may not finish until the weekend after. This is new software and a video showing the new display of the count-down timers. New VideoNew version of Triggers.ino |
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Post by geebo on Mar 17, 2016 19:30:55 GMT -5
Awesome! Thanks again. I'm looking forward to trying it out. Do you have yours complete and fully operational now? No, I'm having problems with the plastic enclosure I bought. With going away next week, I may not finish until the weekend after. This is new software and a video showing the new display of the count-down timers. New VideoNew version of Triggers.inoThe software looks cool. Thanks! Electrically it's good to go right? |
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Post by petew on Mar 17, 2016 20:05:32 GMT -5
Very cool project! I've been dabbling with Arduino and stepper motors - always good to look at other projects! I found a commercial product that could be a good starting point for a custom power sequencer from Carvin. This box is just dying to be hacked - it's run by an 8051 microcontroller and all the glue chips are old school DIP packaged CMOS. It'd be easy to hack with no pesky surface mount devices to mess with. The box is very functional as-is but could be much better. At $140 you can't go wrong, even in stock form.    Along the bottom edge are ten relays, neatly cabled to the mains. Lower left third is the power supply. Upper left third is a worthless volt meter. I'd remove all those volt meter parts to make room for an Arduino board. The 40 pin DIP to the right is the 8051 surrounded by support chips to drive the relays, deal with front panel buttons, and drive LEDs. Replace the 8051 with a socket to connect to the arduino. The LED window on the front panel is a good place for an ethernet jack and usb port for control. Then it's just a software project! Sorry for the hijack. |
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Post by Chuck Elliot on Mar 17, 2016 20:24:02 GMT -5
Yes, the only change I will need to make is to remove the simulated trigger input (1 or 0) that is done via Putty and use the actual electrical input from the zenier circuit.
Best to be sure the relay board is working correctly first.
Remove Following Lines @347:
case '1':
inputPin = HIGH;
break;
case '0':
inputPin = LOW;
break;
Add @305 Just before if (objHeartbeatTimer.Expired())
inputPin = digitalRead(pinINPUT);
Change Line 179
From: pinMode(pinINPUT, OUTPUT);
To: pinMode(pinINPUT, INPUT);
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Post by geebo on Mar 17, 2016 20:50:15 GMT -5
Yes, the only change I will need to make is to remove the simulated trigger input (1 or 0) that is done via Putty and use the actual electrical input from the zenier circuit. Best to be sure the relay board is working correctly first. Remove Following Lines @347:
case '1':
inputPin = HIGH;
break;
case '0':
inputPin = LOW;
break;
Add @305 Just before if (objHeartbeatTimer.Expired())
inputPin = digitalRead(pinINPUT);
Change Line 179
From: pinMode(pinINPUT, OUTPUT);
To: pinMode(pinINPUT, INPUT);
Thanks for the code. It should be easy enough to test with a 12v supply and VOM. |
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Post by geebo on Mar 17, 2016 22:15:55 GMT -5
Yes, the only change I will need to make is to remove the simulated trigger input (1 or 0) that is done via Putty and use the actual electrical input from the zenier circuit. Best to be sure the relay board is working correctly first. Remove Following Lines @347:
case '1':
inputPin = HIGH;
break;
case '0':
inputPin = LOW;
break;
Add @305 Just before if (objHeartbeatTimer.Expired())
inputPin = digitalRead(pinINPUT);
Change Line 179
From: pinMode(pinINPUT, OUTPUT);
To: pinMode(pinINPUT, INPUT);
Stupid question: Where does the trigger input ground connect? And in the above I assume you meant line 205 and not 305. |
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