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Post by vcautokid on Dec 14, 2016 6:07:03 GMT -5
Okay there is a number to consider. Budget. Otherwise, yeah spend $15000.00 plus on a Pre Pro and $20,000.00 on an amp. Sound ridiculous? How far do you want it to go? Perfection by anyone's estimation is often weighed by budget, and other constraints . Without that knowledge, everyone should buy a Ferrari. Or not. Audio and video like many things. What are your expectations in performamce, and budget. Saying just what your receiver is, and speakers are tell little. The more detailed, the more useful the recommendation. Keeping it real. Just my 2 cents.
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Post by millst on Dec 14, 2016 10:33:16 GMT -5
That's another set of advice I hate. Somebody shouldn't just buy something that has a chance of improving their system because Emotiva has a great return policy. First, that isn't free. It's going to take a lot of time and effort to go through the process of installing, configuring, testing, and then possibly doing it all again in reverse. Second, that's all going to lead to confirmation bias. That 30-day free trial is a wonderful policy that shows Emotiva believes in their product, but it's also smart marketing. I bet people almost never return and it helps us convince ourselves to buy things.
Again, identify the weakest link and start there. It's usually not amplification these days.
-tm
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Post by gzubeck on Dec 14, 2016 12:49:16 GMT -5
That's another set of advice I hate. Somebody shouldn't just buy something that has a chance of improving their system because Emotiva has a great return policy. First, that isn't free. It's going to take a lot of time and effort to go through the process of installing, configuring, testing, and then possibly doing it all again in reverse. Second, that's all going to lead to confirmation bias. That 30-day free trial is a wonderful policy that shows Emotiva believes in their product, but it's also smart marketing. I bet people almost never return and it helps us convince ourselves to buy things. Again, identify the weakest link and start there. It's usually not amplification these days. -tm Depends on the speakers. the a700 will have plenty of reserve so most of the time it will be outputting over a 100 watts for the front three channels. the conservative estimate is 80 watts per channel all channels driven with the same speakers for all channels. given that we dont know the size and type of each and every speaker this amp should have plenty of power for most surround sound duties if the surround are less demanding than the fron three channels. if youve got behemoth speakers you may need more power. |
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Post by millst on Dec 14, 2016 16:30:09 GMT -5
We know OP's speakers. Go back and read the thread.
-tm
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Post by knucklehead on Dec 14, 2016 17:04:17 GMT -5
If there is any 'knock' when it comes to finding fault in a Yamaha AVR it is with real world power specs. With such sensitive speakers I wouldn't think there is an issue. ============================================= Here's the power specs from Sound & Vision: Yamaha RX-A1020 A/V Receiver HT Labs Measures HT Labs Measures Two channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads: 0.1% distortion at 113.5 watts 1% distortion at 129.2 watts Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads: 0.1% distortion at 63.9 watts 1% distortion at 73.2 watts Seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads: 0.1% distortion at 57.0 watts 1% distortion at 65.1 watts Analog frequency response in Pure Direct mode: –0.06 dB at 10 Hz –0.02 dB at 20 Hz +0.11 dB at 20 kHz –2.49 dB at 50 kHz Analog frequency response with signal processing: –0.23 dB at 10 Hz –0.08 dB at 20 Hz –0.12 dB at 20 kHz –64.25 dB at 50 kHz ======================================= The first spec is the FTC required 'with two channels driven' - an ancient spec as we now have more multi channel receivers than 2 channel being sold. AVR and amp makers MUST include the FTC mandated power specs in their proclamations or face the wrath of the FTC. The rest of the power specs show the 1020 to be somewhat anemic driving 5 channels - and downright sick driving 7 channels. But you have to ask yourself how much power do you really need. Driving 7 channels of low efficiency (92db and lower) speakers I'd recommend an external amp (mono-blocks not required!) for at least the front three. The biggest improvement in almost any setup will be changing out the speakers. To simply tell someone they need to invest in $3-4000 in a preamp processor and a pair of mono amps is ludicrous. No - actually it's stupid! Spend that much on speakers first - then get some electronics that cost what the Tekton speakers cost. |
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Post by millst on Dec 14, 2016 23:23:12 GMT -5
Nothing wrong with the "two channels driven" spec. Most people listen to music in stereo. Even in the cases where you are using all channels, they aren't likely to all be at max output.
-tm
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Post by knucklehead on Dec 15, 2016 2:57:36 GMT -5
Nothing wrong with the "two channels driven" spec. Most people listen to music in stereo. Even in the cases where you are using all channels, they aren't likely to all be at max output. -tm Nothing at all. Too bad more audiophiles can't come to grips with how much power is actually needed to drive a pair of speakers. |
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Post by yves on Dec 15, 2016 5:00:59 GMT -5
Nothing wrong with the "two channels driven" spec. Most people listen to music in stereo. Even in the cases where you are using all channels, they aren't likely to all be at max output. -tm Nothing at all. Too bad more audiophiles can't come to grips with how much power is actually needed to drive a pair of speakers. It's not driving them that's the problem, but driving them to high enough SPL without getting distorted. Listening to stereo music in my small-ish room whilst sitting at ~10″ from my medium speaker sensitivity (88.5dB/W/m) floorstanders that are slightly difficult to drive because their impedance does dip slightly below 4 ohms (albeit their phase angle stays reasonably well below 45 degrees along the entire spectrum), at reference SPL the peak meter LEDs on my XPA-2 indicate there is still a good strong amount of headroom there. But as soon as I start to crank it, which is something I love doing from time to time, a visible decline in this headroom will gradually exponentially emerge. So I think the power output is not really oversized for what I have. The nicest thing for me, and that is making me smile, is it can play the better quality dinosaur rock vinyl rips extremely loud without causing the earbleed that I usually get from listening to the squishy CD. |
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Post by urwi on Dec 15, 2016 9:13:19 GMT -5
pallpoul, your Tekton Lore's are rated 98dB (1W/1m). About 50W will drive them to ear shattering 105dB SPL in 10ft listening distance with the speakers far away from walls. Usually people listen 10dB or even more below reference level so even 5W from your amp is enough. Don't know about your other speakers as you didn't provide enough details. So power doesn't seem to be the problem here hence upgrading the pre-pro and amp will only cost you money and the net effect is probably just a different looking black box. I would recommend the following approach. First familiarize yourself with acoustic measurements so you can optimize level, delay and more importantly bass management settings. Here's a link that will get you started: www.avsforum.com/forum/91-audio-theory-setup-chat/1449924-simplified-rew-setup-use-usb-mic-hdmi-connection-including-measurement-techniques-how-interpret-graphs.htmlSecond step is to improve room acoustics. This means experimenting with speaker and subwoofer positions, listening location and room treatments. Once you've nailed these topics you will have a great understanding of what is important and what is not. The process will be time consuming, challenging and often frustrating but will ultimately result in the best possible sound from your gear. Good luck on this journey. Ok, so I am debating if getting the MC-700 and the A-700 would improve the sound in my mini theater area, currently using a Yamaha RX A-1020 with 2 Tekton Lore's for front and polk csi center and 4 in-ceiling speakers: 5.5" for surrounds, and front high and two 10" subwoofers. Room is 15#14 and 9 foot ceiling. The Yammi is rated at 110 wpc, 2 ch. driven. the A-700 at 80 wpc, all channels driven. I also I was wondering if the MC-700 supports Dolby Prologic IIz for height speakers. Any thoughts?
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Post by pknaz on Dec 15, 2016 22:34:56 GMT -5
98db sensitive, means you only need 1 watt to reach 98db, that's very, very, very loud. Even if you wanted enough power reserve to safely play dynamic content at that level, you'd only need:
98db - 1 Watt
101db - 2 Watts
104db - 4 Watts
107db - 8 Watts
110db - 16 Watts
113db - 32 Watts
116db - 64 Watts
Even at 10ft away, in an anechoic room, you'd only lose:
98db/1 Watt/1 Meter
92db/1 Watt/2 Meter
[Something between 92-86db]/1 Watt/10 Feet
86db/1 Watt/4 Meter
But, you're not in an anechoic room, you're in a mostly reflective room, so you won't actually lose SPL based on the rate above. In a "Small" (defined as any room in a residential space) room, you're going to lose very little percieved SPL with distance.
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