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Post by sydhaynes on Feb 13, 2017 14:30:44 GMT -5
I added a 50" Vizio to my office setup this weekend and during the reconnection process I replaced my HDMI cables. I used Blue Jeans "BJC Belden Bonded-Pair" cables. These were very affordable and recommended in this thread earlier. Once I brought the system back to life everything seemed to work much better. I no longer have sync issues changing inputs and the unit seems much happier. I played with it all weekend and never had a failure moving from input to input including analog inputs.
My old cables were by no means cheapies, but I'm a believer that there is a lot to be said for using "premium certified" cables with the MC-700. I never thought to replace my cables earlier as I was not utilizing any 4K components at the time.
I'll post the same link provided earlier if anyone else wants to give these a whirl.
www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
-Syd |
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Post by scottyp1 on Feb 14, 2017 21:46:09 GMT -5
I added a 50" Vizio to my office setup this weekend and during the reconnection process I replaced my HDMI cables. I used Blue Jeans "BJC Belden Bonded-Pair" cables. These were very affordable and recommended in this thread earlier. Once I brought the system back to life everything seemed to work much better. I no longer have sync issues changing inputs and the unit seems much happier. I played with it all weekend and never had a failure moving from input to input including analog inputs.
My old cables were by no means cheapies, but I'm a believer that there is a lot to be said for using "premium certified" cables with the MC-700.  I never thought to replace my cables earlier as I was not utilizing any 4K components at the time.
I'll post the same link provided earlier if anyone else wants to give these a whirl.
www.bluejeanscable.com/store/hdmi-cables/hdmi-cable.htm
-Syd |
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Post by scottyp1 on Feb 14, 2017 21:57:22 GMT -5
I've had major issues from the get go, the same ones discussed before with. With addition of no bi-amping which I was told it would.... and my new problem ..EmoQ makes my sub sound great and punchy.. but the deep bass is completely gone.. like 1/15 the output it had before?.... does anyone know what to do to fix this?
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Post by rbk123 on Feb 14, 2017 23:05:24 GMT -5
Redo EmoQ? Move the mic around a foot in various directions and see which gives you the best result.
Alternatively, go in and manually adjust EmoQ's EQ settings on the sub to get the low end back.
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Post by mgbpuff on Feb 16, 2017 8:54:34 GMT -5
So, I went over to my son's house yesterday to take a look at the problems he said he was having with the MC-700 that I gave him. He said he was having sound drop outs, noises, and picture loss after long periods of use. I suspected some sort of heat problem and bought a fan unit to help cool the unit. Much to my surprise, the MC-700 has no vents and depends on radiation of heat entirely (oh, yes, there are a few slots on the bottom but I hate to inform you that heat rises!!!). But I found other problems with connectors, both HDMI and RCA analog outs. Because his A/V cabinet is barely sufficient in depth, the Emo unit was pushed back hard against the back wall, so I made a large cutout so the entire back of the MC-700 could protrude through. So two RCA output connections and one HDMI were bad because the connectors were not seated. I fixed that and put the fan unit on top of the MC-700 (it blows air down on the UNSLOTTED top of the MC-700). Sound and picture looked good for a couple of hours. My question to Emotiva - why not have ventilation slots on top?
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KeithL
Administrator 
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Post by KeithL on Feb 16, 2017 11:14:07 GMT -5
The MC-700 doesn't need much in the way of vents simply because it doesn't make much heat. The surface area of the cabinet on the MC-700 is more than enough to radiate the heat that the circuitry generates. You'll notice that the cabinet doesn't get hot - just pleasantly warm. Our big amplifiers, which make a significant amount of heat when they're playing loudly, have heat sinks which transfer that heat to the air in the cabinet. This hot air now needs a way to get out of this cabinet so more room temperature air will be pulled in. Because hot air rises, as long as the vents on top are not obstructed, the hot air will rise out of the top of the cabinet, and new room temperature air will be pulled into the bottom and sides to replace it. This process is known as convection cooling, and is passive, which means that there isn't a lot of pressure pushing the air, so even a piece of paper placed on top of the amplifier can obstruct it. This is why all those vents need to remain open - with nothing even slowing down the air flowing through them. Fans make all this finesse largely unnecessary because they force the air to go where you want it to (the down-side to fans is that they make noise). So, I went over to my son's house yesterday to take a look at the problems he said he was having with the MC-700 that I gave him. He said he was having sound drop outs, noises, and picture loss after long periods of use. I suspected some sort of heat problem and bought a fan unit to help cool the unit. Much to my surprise, the MC-700 has no vents and depends on radiation of heat entirely (oh, yes, there are a few slots on the bottom but I hate to inform you that heat rises!!!). But I found other problems with connectors, both HDMI and RCA analog outs. Because his A/V cabinet is barely sufficient in depth, the Emo unit was pushed back hard against the back wall, so I made a large cutout so the entire back of the MC-700 could protrude through. So two RCA output connections and one HDMI were bad because the connectors were not seated. I fixed that and put the fan unit on top of the MC-700 (it blows air down on the UNSLOTTED top of the MC-700). Sound and picture looked good for a couple of hours. My question to Emotiva - why not have ventilation slots on top? |
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Post by mgbpuff on Feb 16, 2017 11:17:14 GMT -5
The MC-700 doesn't need much in the way of vents simply because it doesn't make much heat. The surface area of the cabinet on the MC-700 is more than enough to radiate the heat that the circuitry generates. You'll notice that the cabinet doesn't get hot - just pleasantly warm. Our big amplifiers, which make a significant amount of heat when they're playing loudly, have heat sinks which transfer that heat to the air in the cabinet. This hot air now needs a way to get out of this cabinet so more room temperature air will be pulled in. Because hot air rises, as long as the vents on top are not obstructed, the hot air will rise out of the top of the cabinet, and new room temperature air will be pulled into the bottom and sides to replace it. This process is known as convection cooling, and is passive, which means that there isn't a lot of pressure pushing the air, so even a piece of paper placed on top of the amplifier can obstruct it. This is why all those vents need to remain open - with nothing even slowing down the air flowing through them. Fans make all this finesse largely unnecessary because they force the air to go where you want it to (the down-side to fans is that they make noise). So, I went over to my son's house yesterday to take a look at the problems he said he was having with the MC-700 that I gave him. He said he was having sound drop outs, noises, and picture loss after long periods of use. I suspected some sort of heat problem and bought a fan unit to help cool the unit. Much to my surprise, the MC-700 has no vents and depends on radiation of heat entirely (oh, yes, there are a few slots on the bottom but I hate to inform you that heat rises!!!). But I found other problems with connectors, both HDMI and RCA analog outs. Because his A/V cabinet is barely sufficient in depth, the Emo unit was pushed back hard against the back wall, so I made a large cutout so the entire back of the MC-700 could protrude through. So two RCA output connections and one HDMI were bad because the connectors were not seated. I fixed that and put the fan unit on top of the MC-700 (it blows air down on the UNSLOTTED top of the MC-700). Sound and picture looked good for a couple of hours. My question to Emotiva - why not have ventilation slots on top? Yes, of course I follow that, but what is the rationality for slots on the bottom only? |
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KeithL
Administrator
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Post by KeithL on Feb 16, 2017 11:29:08 GMT -5
To be honest, I suspect that the vents were simply part of the original design of that cabinet, and nobody bothered to remove them. Unnecessary vents on the top and sides are generally removed because they make the metalwork easier to bend or dent - and allow stuff to fall in from the top. (Also, even though I'm sure the MC-700 would be just fine if it was totally sealed, some engineers prefer a tiny bit of ventilation over a totally sealed cabinet. - just on principle.) The MC-700 doesn't need much in the way of vents simply because it doesn't make much heat. The surface area of the cabinet on the MC-700 is more than enough to radiate the heat that the circuitry generates. You'll notice that the cabinet doesn't get hot - just pleasantly warm. Our big amplifiers, which make a significant amount of heat when they're playing loudly, have heat sinks which transfer that heat to the air in the cabinet. This hot air now needs a way to get out of this cabinet so more room temperature air will be pulled in. Because hot air rises, as long as the vents on top are not obstructed, the hot air will rise out of the top of the cabinet, and new room temperature air will be pulled into the bottom and sides to replace it. This process is known as convection cooling, and is passive, which means that there isn't a lot of pressure pushing the air, so even a piece of paper placed on top of the amplifier can obstruct it. This is why all those vents need to remain open - with nothing even slowing down the air flowing through them. Fans make all this finesse largely unnecessary because they force the air to go where you want it to (the down-side to fans is that they make noise). Yes, of course I follow that, but what is the rationality for slots on the bottom only? |
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Post by mgbpuff on Feb 16, 2017 11:48:33 GMT -5
To be honest, I suspect that the vents were simply part of the original design of that cabinet, and nobody bothered to remove them. Unnecessary vents on the top and sides are generally removed because they make the metalwork easier to bend or dent - and allow stuff to fall in from the top. (Also, even though I'm sure the MC-700 would be just fine if it was totally sealed, some engineers prefer a tiny bit of ventilation over a totally sealed cabinet. - just on principle.) Yes, of course I follow that, but what is the rationality for slots on the bottom only? O.K. but as an engineer who had two semesters of thermodynamics, I would prefer a few slots on top, just on principle, and on the probability of stacking and inside cabinet installations. We need more time to see if there really is a heat problem - right now I doubt that. Thanks for the response! |
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Post by darklogix on Feb 16, 2017 16:58:28 GMT -5
Well I'm having general PCM issues.
So I have my Computer (GTX980) connected to HDMI3 on the MC-700, and at first it was working fine, but now it's not locking when I set it to 192KHz 24bit, I had to drop to 16bit and 96KHz.
Also sometimes it just won't lock and says "no audio" but then outputs horrible sounds.
Also when using my Samsung 4K player I paused a movie and then got some horrible sounds that didn't abate till I stopped the movie.
I'm really hoping a firmware update will help.
Also ARC has been buggy as anything.
If it weren't for the benefit of more HDMI ports I'd consider just running toslink from the TV to the MC-700.
Oh and I'm only using it at 1080P for now since my larger TV is only 1080P (and 3D) I would love it if a TV existed that would do 4K and 1080P-3D.
Oh and of course the HDMI-CEC issues, it's like the MC-700 just doesn't interact with device's CEC commands. IE when my stuff was connected directly to the TV I didn't need to use the TV remote to change the input, I could just use the device's control and the TV would switch to that input. (made for a nicer user experience.
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Post by rbk123 on Feb 16, 2017 23:13:27 GMT -5
mgpuff - "Why no slots on top, since heat rises?"
keithl - "Just to clarify, heat rises. This is called convection."
Gold, Jerry. Gold.
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jahu
Seeker Of Truth
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Post by jahu on Feb 19, 2017 2:18:51 GMT -5
Hello,
If this is the wrong place for this question, let me know and I will move it elsewhere.
I am supposedly in line for an MC-700, but I just ran across a good deal on a new Onkyo TX-RZ810. Are the MC700 and the TX-RZ810 comparable? Should I spring for the Onkyo and cancel my MC-700 order, or should I stay in line for the MC-700, and hope most of the bugs will be resolved in a semi-timely manner?
Also, if it matters, the system is used 95% for movies/tv. Whatever pro/receiver I get will be mated with a UPA-500.
Thank you for any input.
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Post by mgbpuff on Feb 19, 2017 8:47:12 GMT -5
They are not comparable, they are two different categories of equipment, one being a receiver, the other being a pre-pro. Do you want a Mac Truck or a Prius? The pre-pro is more suited to the direction you have started out (separate amplification). Both, however will give you problems if you do not have an up to date tv.
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Post by millst on Feb 19, 2017 11:20:47 GMT -5
Please, they are very comparable. In fact, some pre-pros are just receivers with the amplifier section removed. The RZ810 has pre-outs and would work fine with an external amp.
-tm
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Post by jessa69 on Feb 21, 2017 1:11:54 GMT -5
Forget about the Onkyo....yes it has all the bells n whistles, if u need all that, if u want good sound clarity/ dynamics/imaging then go for the MC-700....It will complement the power amp. I had the RZ 900 offloaded and back to separates , surely a firmware update will iron out the bugs in due time.
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Post by cwt on Feb 21, 2017 5:00:54 GMT -5
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Post by mgbpuff on Feb 21, 2017 8:36:38 GMT -5
Please, they are very comparable. In fact, some pre-pros are just receivers with the amplifier section removed. The RZ810 has pre-outs and would work fine with an external amp. -tm So you are probably the kind of guy who wears both a belt and suspenders at the same time over a jump suit!  |
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KeithL
Administrator
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Post by KeithL on Feb 21, 2017 9:45:39 GMT -5
I have a late 2015 model 4k TV from Samsung - and it still does 3D (I haven't tried it - but it's in the manual). It wasn't even mentioned in the list of features in the advertisements - but it's there in the book. My guess is that, if you look at some of the older models still around on clearance you'll find some that do 3D. (Although you'll probably have to give up HDR - since most models with HDR will be new designs - without 3D.) Well I'm having general PCM issues. So I have my Computer (GTX980) connected to HTMI3 on the MC-700, and at first it was working fine, but now it's not locking when I set it to 192KHz 24bit, I had to drop to 16bit and 96KHz. Also sometimes it just won't lock and says "no audio" but then outputs horrible sounds. Also when using my Samsung 4K player I paused a movie and then got some horrible sounds that didn't abate till I stopped the movie. I'm really hoping a firmware update will help. Also ARC has been buggy as anything. If it weren't for the benefit of more HDMI ports I'd consider just running toslink from the TV to the MC-700. Oh and I'm only using it at 1080P for now since my larger TV is only 1080P (and 3D) I would love it if a TV existed that would do 4K and 1080P-3D. Oh and of course the HDMI-CEC issues, it's like the MC-700 just doesn't interact with device's CEC commands. IE when my stuff was connected directly to the TV I didn't need to use the TV remote to change the input, I could just use the device's control and the TV would switch to that input. (made for a nicer user experience. |
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KeithL
Administrator
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Post by KeithL on Feb 21, 2017 10:10:53 GMT -5
 There are THREE ways in which heat is dissipated: - convection - conduction - radiation In a power amplifier, where there's a lot of heat to get rid of, the hot air rises out the top, which pulls cool air in the bottom or sides, thus making air flow over the heat sinks. That's convection, which is the most effective way to get rid of a lot of heat in air (it doesn't work in the vacuum of space). On something like the MC-700, which has very few parts that even get warm, and none that make a lot of heat, the hot air simply rises inside and warms the top of the cabinet. The parts also conduct heat directly to the PCB they're mounted on, which then passes it on to the cabinet via radiation and some convection. The cabinet then passes the heat on to the room - by some combination of conduction, convection, and radiation. The cabinet has more than enough surface area to radiate and conduct away the heat the MC-700 generates... and probably never gets warm enough for significant convection. mgpuff - "Why no slots on top, since heat rises?" keithl - "Just to clarify, heat rises. This is called convection." Gold, Jerry. Gold.
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Post by geebo on Feb 21, 2017 11:03:08 GMT -5
Well I'm having general PCM issues. So I have my Computer (GTX980) connected to HTMI3 on the MC-700, and at first it was working fine, but now it's not locking when I set it to 192KHz 24bit, I had to drop to 16bit and 96KHz. Also sometimes it just won't lock and says "no audio" but then outputs horrible sounds. Also when using my Samsung 4K player I paused a movie and then got some horrible sounds that didn't abate till I stopped the movie. I'm really hoping a firmware update will help. Also ARC has been buggy as anything. If it weren't for the benefit of more HDMI ports I'd consider just running toslink from the TV to the MC-700. Oh and I'm only using it at 1080P for now since my larger TV is only 1080P (and 3D) I would love it if a TV existed that would do 4K and 1080P-3D. Oh and of course the HDMI-CEC issues, it's like the MC-700 just doesn't interact with device's CEC commands. IE when my stuff was connected directly to the TV I didn't need to use the TV remote to change the input, I could just use the device's control and the TV would switch to that input. (made for a nicer user experience. You can still find some LG and Sony models. Here are two: www.bestbuy.com/site/lg-65-class-64-5-diag--led-2160p-smart-3d-4k-ultra-hd-tv-with-high-dynamic-range-silver-black/4924100.p?skuId=4924100www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-55-class-54-6-diag-led-2160p-smart-3d-4k-ultra-hd-tv-with-high-dynamic-range-black/4803401.p?skuId=4803401 |
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