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Post by yves on Jan 27, 2017 10:25:54 GMT -5
In my room all of the corners are already fairly occluded with various furniture, etc. so there's certainly nothing really to do on the floor. It's possible that the upper corners could be treated, but event then, there's only one "real" corner in the line of speaker fire and that's already broken up so it's not going to work well as a corner reflector. In any case, I'll try experimenting again with my friend and see what we can find. In the mean time, I look forward to the release of the new XPA Gen3 Double-Wide fully differential Amplifier Modules, and subsequent reviews from places like Audioholics, etc. I think that those may well end up being Emotiva's answer to having a Reference Amplifier to pair with the upcoming RMC-1 and XMC-2 ... Casey Putting various stuff like furniture in corners to occlude them does not help cure the problem of peaks and nulls resulting from standing waves in a room (modal ringing). The only real reason why porous absorbing bass traps work well if placed in corners is simply because axial room modes meet in corners; in a trihedral corner (where three surfaces meet) all three axial modes can be treated at once with just a single thick chunk of absorbing material so they [trihedral corners] deserve special attention, albeit standing waves occur everywhere in a room, and, ideally, as large a total surface area as possible [in as many corners of the room as possible] should be treated with corner bass traps to maximize on bass trapping performance. That is, unless your room is big enough to use pressure based bass traps (either exclusively, or in conjunction with the aforementioned, porous absorbing, velocity based bass traps...). Two classic mistakes made by many are not enough total surface area covered with bass traps and or not enough thickness of the bass traps; cheap foam products do not qualify as bass traps because they only absorb mids and low mids instead of also absorbing some bass frequencies so they only make the bass problems stand out more... which is usually even worse acoustically than having no room treatments at all. |
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Post by leonski on Feb 1, 2017 0:44:41 GMT -5
Rory should chime in with speaker considerations. Q? Size vs Efficiency vs Power needed. That sort of thing.
A 'flabby' speaker will NEVER have 'tight bass'.
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Post by garbulky on Feb 1, 2017 17:48:24 GMT -5
Rory should chime in with speaker considerations. Q? Size vs Efficiency vs Power needed. That sort of thing. A 'flabby' speaker will NEVER have 'tight bass'. What if it exercised? |
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Post by leonski on Feb 1, 2017 18:01:46 GMT -5
R-Dee-R-R. (Pirate Laugh)
A speaker with a Qt of over 1.2 will NEVER sound 'tight' even with a DF of 10,000 or more.
And in reality land, an amp with a bench DF of 500 will actually be Far Lower in real use, when you add the resistive parts of
Inductors, wiring and the odd power resistor.
You'll be lucky to get to a REAL DF of 50 and more likely somewhat less.
Just for example, and I already know it IS a panel, but the inductor in the LP filter has a DCR of 0.40 ohms. That automatically sets a
limit on DF of my panel. Use the same inductor in a regular 'box' speaker? I'm sure you get it.
That is the inductor of my Maggies.
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Post by coldfusion on Apr 1, 2017 12:29:49 GMT -5
So I've heard that one should looks for Power, Damping Factor and Slew Rate in order to grossly characterize one amplifier or another as having the fundamental basic characteristics for "tight, well-controlled bass". I've also heard commentary on "Push-Pull" amplifiers, being able to stop a woofer's motion, etc. with regard to this. And I'm sure there are tons of other basic amplifier parameters, various feedback schemes, etc. which add up to an amplifier being able to deliver "tight bass". But I've never found a "definitive" description. Anyone want to take a pass at this? Just curious. Casey Servos. And Amps suitable for running them. |
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Post by Boomzilla on Apr 1, 2017 12:41:45 GMT -5
Tight bass IS affected by the room - and probably more by the room than by the electronics.
But transistors are NOT any guarantee of tight bass - nor is damping factor of the amplifier. The success or failure of the amp in controlling bass (once the room is minimized) is the compatibility of the amp and the speakers. So what's compatible with what? I wish I could tell.
I recently had a 75 WPC tube amp (transformer output) and a 275 WPC Crown PSA-2, famed (yes, FAMED) for its iron-fisted control of any woofer that dared challenge it. The tube amp probably had a damping factor of less than 10, the Crown >700. Yet (need I even say it?) the tube amp had ORDERS OF MAGNITUDE better (tighter) bass than the Crown.
This wasn't some "I think I might be able to hear a slight difference if it's a Tuesday in August and we're having a solar eclipse." No. This was night and freaking day. The lesson I learned? Anybody that thinks they can predict power amplifier interaction with speakers strictly on specifications is so full of S**t that their eyes are brown!
Sorry if that shoe fits - You'll still have to wear it.
There is more than damping factor that affects a power amplifier's interaction with the speakers. Perhaps Mr. Levkoff could speak more eloquently about it?
Boom
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