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Post by leonski on Jul 29, 2017 0:14:36 GMT -5
For biamp you should open the speaker and simply GUT the crossover and put a line level crossover between the pre and Main amps. The gains from biamp as you propose are absolutely minimal. And probably more cost-effective to to with a more powerful amp. Connecting direct to the amp is the Best way to go, should you decide to really biamp. sound.whsites.net/bi-amp.htmWhile your power line at 15 amps may actually be capable of 1800 watts, the long term power DeRate is 20%. So really closer to 1400 watts than 1800. Also? If you are in the Least Curious, get a Kill-A-Watt meter so you can see actual line voltage and how much SAG you may or may not have as you crank it up. Such a meter is about 20$ and well worth having. As others have pointed out, max power demand from everything all at once will not be a factor. Satisfy yourself of this using the meter I suggest. Also? Is that the sub in the corner? Any OTHER feasible place for it? You might be getting some kind of suck-out with mains set to small. Something to do with phase thru the crossover region. I had a similar problem, only the reverse. Real one-note bass which I fixed by reducing bass to the main speakers and setting my crossovers to a 'gap' between the crossover for the mains and sub. The problem was clearly the interference between the mains and the sub THRU the crossover region. Putting stuff where it Fits rather than where it sounds best is a recipe for endless puttering and dissatisfaction. Do a detailed setup using something like the CARDAS system which should help your system sound its best. www.cardas.com/room_setup_main.php |
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Post by mrloren on Jul 30, 2017 0:09:58 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply,
I'm going to wait for the BasX A300 next month, NO to pulling out crossovers and bi-amping either.
Current room layout is the best I can get it with wife acceptance factor. If it was up to her we would not even have the in-ceiling speakers. I have been trying to talk her into letting me 180 shift the room, she keeps saying no.
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Post by leonski on Jul 30, 2017 12:16:54 GMT -5
Don't know where I got the idea you wanted to experiment wiht BiAmp?
DO, however, get the Kill-A-Watt meter. Inexpensive and will help you be clear on just how much power stuff DOES use.
As far as your current setup? You're screwed. If you can't even experiment with moving some stuff around than you are STUCK.
Read thru the CARDAS material I linked and you may be able to come to some accommodation. If all else fails, send the wife and
a couple of her GFs to the movies and rearrange while they are away.
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Post by mrloren on Jul 31, 2017 0:03:57 GMT -5
Don't know where I got the idea you wanted to experiment wiht BiAmp? DO, however, get the Kill-A-Watt meter. Inexpensive and will help you be clear on just how much power stuff DOES use. As far as your current setup? You're screwed. If you can't even experiment with moving some stuff around than you are STUCK. Read thru the CARDAS material I linked and you may be able to come to some accommodation. If all else fails, send the wife and a couple of her GFs to the movies and rearrange while they are away. I was thinking about getting an A500 and run my front 3 with it, I had a crazy thought of using two channels to bi-amp my S60 and use a single channel for the center. I thought about it for a second then thought no I'll just wait for the A300 in a week. Yes I will get the meter to see how much power I am using. A friend that is an electrician told my I*'m good and bad in my house. It's a Y2K built home so the wiring is good for the 15A circuit but pulling another 20A circuit would be a lot of drywall cutting. He told me to stay under 1600 total watts and I am good. Now for the room as it is sounds good, could it sound better oh yes. Big problem I have is the wiring in the wall for the in-ceiling speakers wraps around that darn fireplace. Family room is not that well suited for HT. I did at one point move the sub to the left placing it more open and yes it did sound better but looked like crud. At the bottom of the stairs the this pop out ledge that prevents anything from being flush. Family room is very open. Kitchen to the left, staircase that is open and hall going out to the living room. What I would like to do is move the HT to the living room which only has one hall opening and a much better square layout for HT. I could also if needed pull more power through the garage. The one big disadvantage to that is it's the front of the house vs. family room is in the back. I do like to turn it up sometimes and then it would be just flooding the street. A few years ago my wife was thinking of adding a room and it's one of the top thing on the "when we have money" list. Yeah I will dial it in for a 7.2.4 setup. For now it will be add a BasX A300 to help open up the signatures. Attachments:
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Post by leonski on Jul 31, 2017 2:21:48 GMT -5
Unless you are willing to REALLY biamp, don't bother with splitting the inputs. You simply don't gain much, if anything. Read the article I linked, it's the truth. I don't see a crossover frequency listed for the S60, but do see sensitivity @90db. That's a pretty good number and you will be simply Amazed at how little amp power you use under 'normal' conditions. 100 db per speaker comes on at about 10 watts. With 100 watt peaks? That's 110db peaks and you are into it for an audiologist and a divorce attorney. www.soundandvision.com/content/polk-signature-s60-speaker-system-review-test-benchThe huge phase angle listed in the test data, (nearly 65 degrees) indicates that not much power is actually doing any 'work' at that frequency. I'd have to see the entire plot, especially against impedance. I'd need to HEAR these with the proposed amp to make sure it's what I'm looking for. |
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Post by mrloren on Jul 31, 2017 10:31:06 GMT -5
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Post by leonski on Jul 31, 2017 21:54:12 GMT -5
I don't know what that means?
Sensitivity, for example, is a really 'iffy' number. First you have 2 speakers, not 1, so ++. Than you are in a room, so you have 'room gain'++. You also don't know HOW it was measured??
And finally you are more than 1 meter away. Maybe 3 meters would be typical. So -- .
So? You have a few 'plusses' and a couple 'minuses'.
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Post by garbulky on Jul 31, 2017 22:19:08 GMT -5
I don't know what that means? Sensitivity, for example, is a really 'iffy' number. First you have 2 speakers, not 1, so ++. Than you are in a room, so you have 'room gain'++. You also don't know HOW it was measured?? And finally you are more than 1 meter away. Maybe 3 meters would be typical. So -- . So? You have a few 'plusses' and a couple 'minuses'. It seems like a pretty standard measurement to me? 1 meter you get 90 db. I assume they measured it at the way they figured was best.... I doubt they were measuring in some tiny speaker. |
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Post by leonski on Aug 1, 2017 20:22:46 GMT -5
The 2 polar opposite ways to measure would be First in an Anachoic space. No 'echos' and the sound simply disappears into the walls OR a more normal room of say 12' x 15' with some kind of time limit for measurments which exclude the reflected sound.
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Post by transchris1 on Aug 12, 2017 21:35:33 GMT -5
As for space,I put my gear on a 1960's stereo console...Works real well for the big amps..
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Post by mrloren on Aug 12, 2017 22:56:13 GMT -5
I made the stand out of Baltic Birch... came out decent
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