|
Post by Casey Leedom on Jun 9, 2018 23:59:41 GMT -5
So my MPS-1 is no longer powering up. It's been a bit persnickety about powering up over the last couple of years[1], sometimes requiring that I hold the power button down for 60s. That generally wasn't a problem since I leave it in standby 100% of the time, but I came home a couple of days ago and it was off and nothing I've been able to do will get it to power up. I've checked the fuses and they're both okay. It's almost 11 years old, so obviously it's out of warranty and shipping it back to Emotiva is likely to be a non-started given its weight.
Any ideas on what I could investigate? I really don't want to be buying a new amplifier at this point ...
Casey
[1] This problem seemed to start when I accidentally let a metal connector briefly short across the outputs of the center channel. There wasn't anything paying at the time but it did make a very loud pop/thump sound in the speaker and that channel's light went out. A difficult 60s power cycle later it came back but has never really liked doing a cold power up ever since. (sigh) Always unplug everything when changing connections!
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Jun 10, 2018 0:09:51 GMT -5
Unless EMO will part with a Schematic, you're stuck with their service. Amps are essentially simple things with generally FEW 'proprietary' parts, though some semiconductors may be difficult to source after a decade. For example, the company I worked for sold an entire line to another company. WE did the 'build-out' which was supposed to give them enough stock to bring the line back at one of THEIR facilities. Than a bunch of legal BS ensued. But you can STILL get those parts which are by all measure 'old stuff'. Resistors and capacitors should be NO problem, but if you smoked a circuit board? THAT could be an issue. I hope it's something simple
|
|
|
Post by creimes on Jun 10, 2018 0:12:05 GMT -5
Are you able to take the amp module out that you shorted, I'm wondering if just that amp module is causing the grief ?
Chad
|
|
|
Post by vcautokid on Jun 10, 2018 3:58:53 GMT -5
That is a good question. Will the amp post and allow operation with the shorted amp module removed?
|
|
|
Post by willcycle on Jun 10, 2018 5:38:35 GMT -5
Have you checked the power button switch? I have an XPR-2 in which all four switches went bad (internal corrosion). Luckily I found replacements.
|
|
|
Post by rdperry12 on Jun 10, 2018 7:16:40 GMT -5
The great thing about the mps was it's modualarty so a couple things to start with. I would remove all the amp modules test them all individually. If they all power up then it is most likely the relay in the main plug/power switch that is in the main case of the amp. I have had to replace a couple in Rpa-1 amps I have had so given the age this seems a likely scenario. If this repair is beyond your diy skills it will at least make it much easier and cheaper to return to Emotiva than the amp with all the modules installed.I could also be way wrong but thought I would share my experiences.
|
|
|
Post by Casey Leedom on Jun 12, 2018 14:47:23 GMT -5
Well, the Good News™ is that after leaving the MPS-1 powered off (Power Cord disconnected) for a few days, it came back on finally when I reconnected it and held the Power Button down for ~30s. A 12 hour disconnection wasn't good enough, so I'm assuming that the capacitors needed to drain sufficiently to allow the Control Board to completely Power Down and Reset itself ... Or maybe the 50th attempt was just the charm ...
The obvious outtake, is Never Power It Down! :-)
Casey
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Jun 12, 2018 14:58:21 GMT -5
A good tech should be able to figure this out without schematic, I HOPE. Sound like you could give him enough information and symptoms to lead to the power board, and to a fix.
It could be something as simple as some caps. (caps need to discharge to release relay?) or even a bad relay. If the relay is socketed, (should be) it's a simple plug-and-play fix.
The bad news? Tech will charge hourly fee for Diagnosis. But may WAIVE such fee IF you continue with fix.
|
|
|
Post by Casey Leedom on Jun 12, 2018 15:41:13 GMT -5
Thanks for the ideas! I'll hold off doing anything till the next time it accidentally gets powered off. Some day I want to get a new amplifier, but the cheapest option is ~$2K ranging up to about $7.5K and I'd rather not spend that now ...
Casey
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Jun 12, 2018 17:44:49 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Casey Leedom on Jun 12, 2018 18:45:16 GMT -5
Actually I use al 7 channels: Left/Center/Right, Surround Left/Right, Zone2 (Front Porch) Left/Right. Choices I've considered for a new amplifier include:
$1,999: XPA-7 Gen 3 $3,995: ATI AT527NC $4,398: $1,399 XPA-4 Gen3 + $1,999 XPA-DR3 Gen3 $7,995: ATI AT6007
Casey
|
|
|
Post by creimes on Jun 12, 2018 22:45:48 GMT -5
Did you try removing the amp blade or any of the amp blades for that matter but specifically the one you shorted that time.
Chad
|
|
|
Post by Casey Leedom on Jun 12, 2018 23:18:49 GMT -5
Nope, I didn't get around to that. And, given how problematic it is about powering back on, I think I'll duck my head in the sand and wait till the next time there's a power outage ... :-)
Casey
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Jun 13, 2018 0:03:54 GMT -5
Actually I use al 7 channels: Left/Center/Right, Surround Left/Right, Zone2 (Front Porch) Left/Right. Choices I've considered for a new amplifier include: $1,999: XPA-7 Gen 3 $3,995: ATI AT527NC $4,398: $1,399 XPA-4 Gen3 + $1,999 XPA-DR3 Gen3 $7,995: ATI AT6007 Casey A TOTALLY wacky idea. 7 of the m2200 mono amps from OUTLAW. 1879$ and free shipping. That's 7x200@8ohms but you'll need TWO circuits to go to redline on all 7 simultaniously. Which is probably NEVER going to happen.
|
|
|
Post by teaman on Jun 13, 2018 0:07:05 GMT -5
Actually I use al 7 channels: Left/Center/Right, Surround Left/Right, Zone2 (Front Porch) Left/Right. Choices I've considered for a new amplifier include: $1,999: XPA-7 Gen 3 $3,995: ATI AT527NC $4,398: $1,399 XPA-4 Gen3 + $1,999 XPA-DR3 Gen3 $7,995: ATI AT6007 Casey A TOTALLY wacky idea. 7 of the m2200 mono amps from OUTLAW. 1879$ and free shipping. That's 7x200@8ohms but you'll need TWO circuits to go to redline on all 7 simultaniously. Which is probably NEVER going to happen. Just wondering if you have ever heard them. If so what did you think?
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Jun 13, 2018 1:12:02 GMT -5
Sorry. Never heard them. Not that it matters, but if you find a reviewer you respect and trust? Maybe that would help? The RR2150 has been around forever and has recently been 'upgraded' For my .05$ that's the best value in the OutLaw line. If you hear something.....good or bad.....about the M2200, please post me direct or back to the thread. hometheaterhifi.com/volume_10_2/outlaw-audio-200-amplifier-4-2003.htmlThis test was for the m200, the ancestor of the m2200. I have NO idea what got changed. Test was from 2003, so it's a real history lesson.
|
|
|
Post by teaman on Jun 13, 2018 2:17:30 GMT -5
Sorry. Never heard them. Not that it matters, but if you find a reviewer you respect and trust? Maybe that would help? The RR2150 has been around forever and has recently been 'upgraded' For my .05$ that's the best value in the OutLaw line. If you hear something.....good or bad.....about the M2200, please post me direct or back to the thread. hometheaterhifi.com/volume_10_2/outlaw-audio-200-amplifier-4-2003.htmlThis test was for the m200, the ancestor of the m2200. I have NO idea what got changed. Test was from 2003, so it's a real history lesson. Thanks, I actually owned a pair of the M2200 and didn't care for them. I used them in a 2.2 set up and for both music and television they amps sounded rather odd. Okay at low or low-moderate volumes but as the listening level increased the amps sort of thinned out. They sounded strained. They sounded tinny, like the low end was unattainable and the top end was breaking up a bit. I did hear that these are amps that Outlaw does not actually build, but rather they are rebadged amps from a manufacturer in Thailand or something. I have heard good things about the other Outlaw amps that they actually build themselves, several people on my audio FB page own Outlaws and seem to like them. I was hoping for another perspective in case mine was off base. I appreciate your input! Tim
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Jun 13, 2018 11:38:58 GMT -5
I'm kinda' led to ask if OutLaw owns ANY manufacturing? Or do they get everything built by others 'to spec' ??
|
|
|
Post by Casey Leedom on Jun 13, 2018 12:19:04 GMT -5
Yeah, I thought that Outlaw used 100% out-sourced manufacturing and design. Not a criticism; it's a completely reasonable Business Model. They specify products and QA processes and create a portfolio of products that their customers want and trust Outlaw to get designed/manufactured/tested in a reasonable manner.
Casey
|
|
|
Post by leonski on Jun 13, 2018 13:50:12 GMT -5
You could run the entire company (OutLaw) from a 4 room suite of offices in some backwater commercial area.
Hire what you need as you need it. Have some 'head' of engineering employed by the company and offsite support / technical.
When I visited the world HQ of HSU Research (subs) I walked in to the entry, down the hall was engineering and the break room, while off to my left was an awful-shaped listening area and in back to the right was a warehouse space, from which my sub appeared as if by Magic. As I walked back to the break room (free coffee) the son of the good Dr. Hsu practically threw himself between me and the door to the technical room where they had a very good bench setup and stuff under test. Like it was some kind of SECRET.
|
|