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Post by aswiss on May 16, 2020 8:54:48 GMT -5
There are many really good things about the new firmware. Unfortunately one thing that is still problematic is a loud burst of noise with DSD over HDMI from an Oppo 205. When the stereo SACD disc finished playing and therefore DSD was switched back to PCM from the player, I was rudely shocked by a loud noise out of all speakers. Same here with the oppo203.
And the same clicky noise is hearable when switching from a Atmos Stream (HiRes) to DTS 5.1 (non HiRes).
For me it looks like its HiRes related. Do we have a Ticket at support for this?
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on May 16, 2020 9:20:14 GMT -5
There are many really good things about the new firmware. Unfortunately one thing that is still problematic is a loud burst of noise with DSD over HDMI from an Oppo 205. When the stereo SACD disc finished playing and therefore DSD was switched back to PCM from the player, I was rudely shocked by a loud noise out of all speakers. Same here with the oppo203. And the same clicky noise is hearable when switching from a Atmos Stream (HiRes) to DTS 5.1 (non HiRes).
For me it looks like its HiRes related. Do we have a Ticket at support for this?
Not sure, but it can’t hurt to contact support with the issue....multiple contacts are fine.... |
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Post by AudioHTIT on May 16, 2020 9:40:53 GMT -5
This cable is NOT the 2.5mm TS to 3.5mm required for going between the Harmony Hub and RMC/XMC (at least if my reading of numbers in German is correct 🙂) |
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Post by andersmi on May 16, 2020 10:19:20 GMT -5
They don't ship to Denmark :-( It's actually not easy to find this type of cable here in Denmark, I found it with the right connections but it was stereo. I will try searching a little more or else I know a guy that should be able to make me one :-) Thanks guys for all the help. 👍 It was a 2.5 to 3.5 mono you needed? They deliver to Sweden so I guess Denmark is OK as well. When I click the link it says that it is unavailable. What do you search for to find this, I can't seem to find any of these cables on amazon. My search skills is being tested on this 😅 |
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Post by andersmi on May 16, 2020 10:21:17 GMT -5
That is a 3.5 to 3.5 i need a 2.5 to 3.5 but thanks anyway. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2020 10:22:56 GMT -5
As a follow-up to my choppy sound problem via analog in/USB, I reverted back to 1.09 firmware and it cleared up all my problems. I probably would have never noticed this had I not decided to hook up my Brooklyn DAC+. Completely unusable on 1.10. Looks like I'm stuck on 1.09 until this gets resolved.
I'll put a ticket in for this on Monday.
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richb
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Post by richb on May 16, 2020 10:24:50 GMT -5
I'm going to start by suggesting that, if this discussion is to be taken further, it should be moved....perhaps to the DIY or Audio Technology sections on the forum.... (I'll also mention that, personally, I think that this is probably not worth the effort for a home loudspeaker or modification... although I am a big fan of bi-amped powered monitors.)
That said, I will conclude my contribution by suggesting that combining both active and passive crossovers is really opening up a BIG can of design worms. First off, if you do that, you are sacrificing almost all of the major advantages of a true bi-amping, and avoiding the use of a passive crossover.
You are not avoiding using large and expensive passive components, some of which may introduce distortion, and some of which reduce efficiency by using up power.
And you are not eliminating the reduction in damping and coupling caused by having those components between the amp and the individual drivers. Beyond that, there is a major difference between adding an active crossover to the passive crossover components already in a speaker, and designing a custom hybrid system. If you were to design such a system from scratch, you could calculate the active and passive sections to work together, and to produce slopes that sum properly. This has been done quite effectively by some manufacturers in the past... and also offers the advantage of being able to include EQ or DSP corrections in the active circuitry.
However, assuming that the passive sections already deliver a smooth transition between speaker sections, then any attempt to move the crossover point will result in a dip or gap. (All you could hope to do would be to sharpen the slopes on each half - separately - while avoiding causing them to move apart and so creating a serious dip.) And, if you're really considering the added protection against amplifier failure offered by the passive components, there is a better solution.
That solution is to include a relatively large value capacitor on the midrange and tweeter section of the speaker....
If you calculate the value of this capacitor for a crossover point one or two octaves below the acoustic crossover point.... then it will still block DC, or seriously excessive low frequency bass, while not significantly altering the actual crossover point of the speaker. (And, by doing it that way, you will allow the amplifier that powers the woofer, which is where damping is the most critical, to remain connected directly.)
I suppose I'll make my final statement here as well. Let's see about, 99.99 percent of Emotiva customers are applying bass management with passive crossovers to their systems.  This is not fundamentally different so long as the crossover set in the RMC-1 does not attenuate before the speakers passive crossover. The Salon2's which are crossed at 150Hz to the bass section. Therefore, the power distribution is not mostly in the bass. The distribution is based on content and speaker. Considering that amps are providing voltage amplification, the distribution is not primarily in the bass. The power may often be required in the bass but that is not a guarantee. Consider an orchestra... I am currently bi-amping the Salon2's and have demonstrated (with Sarah McLachlan I Love you) the high-frequency (upper) amplifier gains 1 dB of headroom). These are essentially 4 Ohm speakers, so that is only a gain of 60 watts on this bass heavy track, so not an endorsement of bi-amping. The AHB2's clip indicators distinguish between voltage and current clipping. In this case, and all experiments I have performed show the AHB2's are voltage clipping. Therefore, a proper crossover settings, at say 300Hz, should attenuate 15O Hz and could provide significant headroom. Even 2 dB additional, which is not out of the question, yields an effective doubling of amplification which is significant. I think has donh50 made the point that a trumpet can clip an amplifier. This may not be the same power, but requires voltage. Amirm has published that demonstrated an AVR not clipping the highs while clipping the lows amp with a limited and shared power supply. Voltage need not be clipped when current is. Limiting the range of voltage amplification is also beneficial because it can reduce inter-modulation distortion. It's not hard to find measurements (on HomeTheaterHifi) showing dual tones 60 Hz and 7 kHz tones that exhibit increased intermodulation distortion. These are non-linear distortions, which are not as easily masked. So respectfully, I do not agree with your position on bi-amping and would greatly appreciate this feature, even if it requires expansion modules, which is the raison d'être for the existence of an RMC-1. Dan mentioned supporting bi-amping with crossover as possible feature on the RMC-1. There are processors that support it. - Rich |
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Post by AudioHTIT on May 16, 2020 10:27:42 GMT -5
That is a 3.5 to 3.5 i need a 2.5 to 3.5 but thanks anyway. I will also caution you that the upper ‘lip’ of the Harmony Hub can interfere with Fat connectors. Take a look at the size of the stereo cable you have and note the clearance with the hub, that will give you an idea what the issue is. The cables that have been linked so far seem to be ok in this regard, but I have at least one cable or adapter that’s too wide to fit. |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on May 16, 2020 10:35:00 GMT -5
There are many really good things about the new firmware. Unfortunately one thing that is still problematic is a loud burst of noise with DSD over HDMI from an Oppo 205. When the stereo SACD disc finished playing and therefore DSD was switched back to PCM from the player, I was rudely shocked by a loud noise out of all speakers. Same here with the oppo203. And the same clicky noise is hearable when switching from a Atmos Stream (HiRes) to DTS 5.1 (non HiRes).
For me it looks like its HiRes related. Do we have a Ticket at support for this?
My Oppo UDP-203 only registers the "slightest" of pops after the last track and that's at a substantially high volume, not reference level but approaching it. I've tried quite a few two channel and multi-channel SACD's, including several of Billy Joel's two-channel and multi-channel, Dire Straits, Al Di Meola, Diana Krall, Genesis and a couple of Linn Records SACD Collections. |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on May 16, 2020 10:40:29 GMT -5
That is a 3.5 to 3.5 i need a 2.5 to 3.5 but thanks anyway. I will also caution you that the upper ‘lip’ of the Harmony Hub can interfere with Fat connectors. Take a look at the size of the stereo cable you have and note the clearance with the hub, that will give you an idea what the issue is. The cables that have been linked so far seem to be ok in this regard, but I have at least one cable or adapter that’s too wide to fit. These adapters for those that can't find the 2.5mm-3.5mm cable may work for those already with the regular 3.5mm mono cable. Not sure if they're too wide to fit though. www.amazon.com/Ancable-Connector-Extenders-Repeaters-Receivers/dp/B07FDNP3MY |
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Post by AudioHTIT on May 16, 2020 10:54:41 GMT -5
I will also caution you that the upper ‘lip’ of the Harmony Hub can interfere with Fat connectors. Take a look at the size of the stereo cable you have and note the clearance with the hub, that will give you an idea what the issue is. The cables that have been linked so far seem to be ok in this regard, but I have at least one cable or adapter that’s too wide to fit. These adapters for those that can't find the 2.5mm-3.5mm cable may work for those already with the regular 3.5mm mono cable. Not sure if they're too wide to fit though. www.amazon.com/Ancable-Connector-Extenders-Repeaters-Receivers/dp/B07FDNP3MYI believe that’s the exact adapter that showed me this problem, and that they are too wide. I’ll see if I can find mine and test them again, but I don’t think they fit. |
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LCSeminole
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Post by LCSeminole on May 16, 2020 10:57:40 GMT -5
I believe that’s the exact adapter that showed me this problem, and that they are too wide. I’ll see if I can find mine and test them again, but I don’t think they fit. I just read through the reviews on Amazon and there are mixed reviews of success and failures. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on May 16, 2020 11:26:02 GMT -5
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Post by hsamwel on May 16, 2020 11:41:23 GMT -5
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Post by andersmi on May 16, 2020 11:54:23 GMT -5
I will also caution you that the upper ‘lip’ of the Harmony Hub can interfere with Fat connectors. Take a look at the size of the stereo cable you have and note the clearance with the hub, that will give you an idea what the issue is. The cables that have been linked so far seem to be ok in this regard, but I have at least one cable or adapter that’s too wide to fit. These adapters for those that can't find the 2.5mm-3.5mm cable may work for those already with the regular 3.5mm mono cable. Not sure if they're too wide to fit though. www.amazon.com/Ancable-Connector-Extenders-Repeaters-Receivers/dp/B07FDNP3MYThat look like the one that I have 😊 |
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Post by andersmi on May 16, 2020 11:56:01 GMT -5
Thanks for the effort but no dice 🥺😊👍 |
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Post by bolle on May 16, 2020 12:31:10 GMT -5
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Post by steelman1991 on May 16, 2020 12:34:49 GMT -5
Not sure, about the stability of BEQ. Spent most of this afternoon trying to import filters from a USB thumb drive. Occassionally it would clarify acceptance, but on check had imported nothing, other times it would crash - with USB read error (tried several different ones - all with the same consequences) - verification of import (but nothing actually there), or USB Read crash. All other speaker location filters loaded correctly
Eventually managed to get them to stick, by manually entering them - though again this took many attempts and a re-flash of the most recent firmware to get them to stick.
Anyone seeing anything similar?
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Post by andersmi on May 16, 2020 13:09:52 GMT -5
That look like the one that I have 😊 Just checked the adapter and the whole plug gets in the socket so it seems like it fits, but it doesn't change the fact that it doesn't work. |
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Post by andersmi on May 16, 2020 13:15:46 GMT -5
That are a 4 pole and a stereo cable. Some have reported it can course problems and mono cables are recommended. I currently have a 3.5 stereo cable with an adapter that doesn't work. |
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