Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 7, 2020 21:32:50 GMT -5
Does Emotiva have any control over the volume level of the DTS Neural X? It’s too low. It could do with a bump. I find my self switching to dolby surround to fix this as i leave my volume at -16. it's definitely too soft vs dolby so it would be nice if the volume could be matched. Anyone here running a Panasonic AE8000 projector got the HDMI CEC working? The projector does not put the XMC-2 into standby. Another thing is do we have a remote control app for windows 10 or access to the API? Based on my experience with the XMC2, DTS Neural X is terrible. On DTS movies, change the mode from auto to surround to get the best sound. Unfortunately there isn’t a way to configure settings to exclude DTS Neural X without excluding the DSU (set default to surround).
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Post by marcl on Apr 9, 2020 16:56:23 GMT -5
My XMC-2 is headed back to the mother ship for repair. Thanks Keith and Kayla for the quick response! Hope to ship tomorrow.
For others' benefit here are the symptoms:
Unit will sometimes lock up when changing inputs, freezing on "Please Wait". Over the past couple months this has happened maybe five times. When I cycle the back switch or hold the power button for reboot, it comes up with an error code .... err: init EDA2. It freezes there. It will restart, but I have to do the following .... unplug the power cord and all HDMI inputs and output; let it sit with power cord disconnected several minutes; plug in power cord and allow it to come up; reconnect HDMI I/O. Note that the freeze also happens any time I try a cold reboot even if it previously had not frozen. So I have left it in "Video Remains On" mode which works okay 95% of the time.
Appreciate the quick reply to my support request, and hoping the turnaround is smooth. Back to the OPPO 205 as backup DAC and video switcher.
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Post by ttocs on Apr 9, 2020 17:33:19 GMT -5
^^^^^^
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Post by marcl on Apr 10, 2020 10:23:08 GMT -5
My XMC-2 is headed back to the mother ship for repair. Thanks Keith and Kayla for the quick response! Hope to ship tomorrow. For others' benefit here are the symptoms: Unit will sometimes lock up when changing inputs, freezing on "Please Wait". Over the past couple months this has happened maybe five times. When I cycle the back switch or hold the power button for reboot, it comes up with an error code .... err: init EDA2. It freezes there. It will restart, but I have to do the following .... unplug the power cord and all HDMI inputs and output; let it sit with power cord disconnected several minutes; plug in power cord and allow it to come up; reconnect HDMI I/O. Note that the freeze also happens any time I try a cold reboot even if it previously had not frozen. So I have left it in "Video Remains On" mode which works okay 95% of the time. Appreciate the quick reply to my support request, and hoping the turnaround is smooth. Back to the OPPO 205 as backup DAC and video switcher. Update: Since the unit works with the reboot process described (so far) I called to see what the turnaround might be. Got a quick response that it could be weeks, so for now better to keep the unit and wait until the world around us settled down. Thanks Steve for the prompt response!
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 10, 2020 11:10:37 GMT -5
Anyone using front wides?
Before I buy 2 more Revels, I am using my old Definitive BP2 as front wides and it’s amazing how wide the front soundstage is now. Also the front to back panning is smoother.
Are you guys experiencing the same thing?
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Post by rochesterboy on Apr 10, 2020 11:11:58 GMT -5
Anyone using front wides? Before I buy 2 more Revels, I am using my old Definitive BP2 as front wides and it’s amazing how wide the front soundstage is now. Also the front to back panning is smoother. Are you guys experiencing the same thing? Are you referring to music contents or movies?
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 10, 2020 11:29:27 GMT -5
Anyone using front wides? Before I buy 2 more Revels, I am using my old Definitive BP2 as front wides and it’s amazing how wide the front soundstage is now. Also the front to back panning is smoother. Are you guys experiencing the same thing? Are you referring to music contents or movies? Movies, specifically Dolby Atmos movies. For music, I just use 2 channels and sub. So I’m running 9.1.4 right now with my front wides.
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Post by rochesterboy on Apr 10, 2020 11:31:10 GMT -5
Are you referring to music contents or movies? Movies. For music, I just use 2 channels and sub. So I’m running 9.1.4 right now with my front wides. The reason I was asking is, I was told that DSU does not consider wides. Is your content coded for 9.x channels?
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 10, 2020 13:03:37 GMT -5
Movies. For music, I just use 2 channels and sub. So I’m running 9.1.4 right now with my front wides. The reason I was asking is, I was told that DSU does not consider wides. Is your content coded for 9.x channels? That’s what I heard too. I’m talking about Dolby Atmos movies. DSU doesn’t play a part in Atmos movies. Playing Alita (amazing sound), there is sound coming out of the front wides. The front to rear panning is a lot more seamless and the movie throws a huge soundstage.
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Post by megash0n on Apr 10, 2020 13:21:54 GMT -5
The reason I was asking is, I was told that DSU does not consider wides. Is your content coded for 9.x channels? That’s what I heard too. I’m talking about Dolby Atmos movies. DSU doesn’t play a part in Atmos movies. Playing Alita (amazing sound), there is sound coming out of the front wides. The front to rear panning is a lot more seamless and the movie throws a huge soundstage. I haven't checked the channel layout of Alita. I don't think I've watched it since owning the RMC. Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't the wides simply be mixed in? I'm not sure how Emotiva handles things like this. I was planning on getting wides myself until I realized none of my movies have those channels designated.
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 10, 2020 13:33:51 GMT -5
That’s what I heard too. I’m talking about Dolby Atmos movies. DSU doesn’t play a part in Atmos movies. Playing Alita (amazing sound), there is sound coming out of the front wides. The front to rear panning is a lot more seamless and the movie throws a huge soundstage. I haven't checked the channel layout of Alita. I don't think I've watched it since owning the RMC. Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't the wides simply be mixed in? I'm not sure how Emotiva handles things like this. I was planning on getting wides myself until I realized none of my movies have those channels designated. I’m a novice with Atmos but I believe with Atmos if you have speakers like wides and the movie’s bed channels are 7.1.4, then any additional channels like front wides and top middle (ceiling), Atmos uses objects for them. Let’s wait for Keith’s dissertation (I’m kidding Keith 😊).
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Post by alhull on Apr 10, 2020 13:58:32 GMT -5
I am currently using only HDMI output 1 going to my OLED TV. I do not have ARC/CEC enabled on anything as far as I know. Where do you check that? Are you saying that by using output 2 instead of 1, you're seeing less connection issues? This stuff is all getting ridiculously complex nowadays. HDMI Out 2 is considered the 'Primary' output, even if you're not using ARC (which is a good thing). I would suggest using it as well. I switched my output to HDMI Output 2, and my Roku came up quickly. So far so good. I'll keep testing switching between inputs and see how the XMC-2 behaves.
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Post by megash0n on Apr 10, 2020 14:17:43 GMT -5
I haven't checked the channel layout of Alita. I don't think I've watched it since owning the RMC. Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't the wides simply be mixed in? I'm not sure how Emotiva handles things like this. I was planning on getting wides myself until I realized none of my movies have those channels designated. I’m a novice with Atmos but I believe with Atmos if you have speakers like wides and the movie’s bed channels are 7.1.4, then any additional channels like front wides and top middle (ceiling), Atmos uses objects for them. Let’s wait for Keith’s dissertation (I’m kidding Keith 😊). Yeah, I have no idea and havent researched it myself. I would think for it to be "of value", the producer would need to create the object. I see some value of calculating something between surround and fronts, but only for rooms with a decent width. Like.. 25 feet or wider. Only my opinion of course. I think Keith's overall opinion is that more is not better and that we don't necessarily need all these channels with good bed channels and good sound track production. I wonder what we are doing to room treatments at some point with all these speakers. If you treated the first reflection from an 11.1.6 config for example... Would you have any wall left? 😂😂😂 Edit... Dang autocorrect. It's funny how it can completely change and entire sentence by messing up one word.
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 10, 2020 15:49:02 GMT -5
I’m a novice with Atmos but I believe with Atmos if you have speakers like wides and the movie’s bed channels are 7.1.4, then any additional channels like front wides and top middle (ceiling), Atmos uses objects for them. Let’s wait for Keith’s dissertation (I’m kidding Keith 😊). Yeah, I have no idea and havent researched it myself. I would think for it to be "of value", the producer would need to create the object. I see some value of calculating something between surround and fronts, but only for rooms with a decent width. Like.. 25 feet or wider. Only my opinion of course. I think Keith's overall opinion is that more is not better and that we don't necessarily need all these channels with good bed channels and good sound track production. I wonder what we are doing to room treatments at some point with all these speakers. If you treated the first reflection from an 11.1.6 config for example... Would you have any wall left? 😂😂😂 Edit... Dang autocorrect. It's funny how it can completely change and entire sentence by messing up one word. I’ve watched a couple of scenes from Wonder Woman (Atmos) and Furious 7 (DTS Neural X). Wonder Woman sounds better as in more immersive, it’s quite impressive. The sound seems like it’s just floating around the room. Furious 7 there was no difference. Neural X didn’t use the front wides and it sounds dull until I jack it up to -10 or so. So I have my Revel F208/C208 across the front 3. Then I’m using my 4 Revel F12 (full range) for my front wides and side surrounds. Unfortunately this leaves no more matching speakers for my surround backs. I have a pair of old Definitive BP2 and Polk S10 along with my legacy Klipsch Forte IIs. I decided to use the Polk S10s since they are not bi-polar speakers nor are they horns. A little sound mismatch so I’ll need to replace them at some point. But having my best 7 speakers covering the front stage to the sides made a huge difference in my overall Atmos experience (with a lot of action). I’ll need to run REW again. Dirac would be so much easier lol. I gotta run REW for 7 speakers then rewire my speakers so I can run REW for the other 6, then load it all into preset 1. 🤦♂️ Guess I’ll do that later when it quiets down around the house. 😊
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Post by motogp34 on Apr 10, 2020 15:49:39 GMT -5
Any update on Dirac yet ?!?
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Post by megash0n on Apr 10, 2020 16:06:42 GMT -5
Yeah, I have no idea and havent researched it myself. I would think for it to be "of value", the producer would need to create the object. I see some value of calculating something between surround and fronts, but only for rooms with a decent width. Like.. 25 feet or wider. Only my opinion of course. I think Keith's overall opinion is that more is not better and that we don't necessarily need all these channels with good bed channels and good sound track production. I wonder what we are doing to room treatments at some point with all these speakers. If you treated the first reflection from an 11.1.6 config for example... Would you have any wall left? 😂😂😂 Edit... Dang autocorrect. It's funny how it can completely change and entire sentence by messing up one word. I’ve watched a couple of scenes from Wonder Woman (Atmos) and Furious 7 (DTS Neural X). Wonder Woman sounds better as in more immersive, it’s quite impressive. The sound seems like it’s just floating around the room. Furious 7 there was no difference. Neural X didn’t use the front wides and it sounds dull until I jack it up to -10 or so. So I have my Revel F208/C208 across the front 3. Then I’m using my 4 Revel F12 (full range) for my front wides and side surrounds. Unfortunately this leaves no more matching speakers for my surround backs. I have a pair of old Definitive BP2 and Polk S10 along with my legacy Klipsch Forte IIs. I decided to use the Polk S10s since they are not bi-polar speakers nor are they horns. A little sound mismatch so I’ll need to replace them at some point. But having my best 7 speakers covering the front stage to the sides made a huge difference in my overall Atmos experience (with a lot of action). I’ll need to run REW again. Dirac would be so much easier lol. I gotta run REW for 7 speakers then rewire my speakers so I can run REW for the other 6, then load it all into preset 1. 🤦♂️ Guess I’ll do that later when it quiets down around the house. 😊 Rew can be a pain. You can use ASIO4ALL as a sound card driver and actually pick from a 7.1 config. It kinda messed my laptop up, so proceed with caution. 😂😂😂 those drivers are a bit flaky and don't work with all versions of Rew. The other pain, besides rewiring, is that you have to go into the speaker config each time to adjust the distance as well. It's all a pain. I've decided to leave it all alone and wait for Dirac.
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Apr 10, 2020 16:20:37 GMT -5
REW can be a pain. You can use ASIO4ALL as a sound card driver and actually pick from a 7.1 config. It kinda messed my laptop up, so proceed with caution. 😂😂😂 those drivers are a bit flaky and don't work with all versions of Rew. The other pain, besides rewiring, is that you have to go into the speaker config each time to adjust the distance as well. It's all a pain. I've decided to leave it all alone and wait for Dirac. I’m with you. It’s a pain but since I rearranged my room to fit the front wides, I gotta re do it. I don’t think you gotta worry about speaker distance when you run REW, since the measurements are independent of each other. I hope I’m right bc I’m not going to bother with that (or I might now that you mentioned it 😂).
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Post by megash0n on Apr 10, 2020 16:33:49 GMT -5
REW can be a pain. You can use ASIO4ALL as a sound card driver and actually pick from a 7.1 config. It kinda messed my laptop up, so proceed with caution. 😂😂😂 those drivers are a bit flaky and don't work with all versions of Rew. The other pain, besides rewiring, is that you have to go into the speaker config each time to adjust the distance as well. It's all a pain. I've decided to leave it all alone and wait for Dirac. I’m with you. It’s a pain but since I rearranged my room to fit the front wides, I gotta re do it. I don’t think you gotta worry about speaker distance when you run REW, since the measurements are independent of each other. I hope I’m right bc I’m not going to bother with that (or I might now that you mentioned it 😂). This is an area I know just enough to be dangerous... And most the time I am wrong. After thinking through it, I'd say the main issue would just be having your speakers in proper time alignment. This would be more critical on speakers that roll off to your subs, but most important on LCR I would think. Rew allows you to specify a timing speaker as well. I understand a lot of this when I'm watching videos, but putting it into practice is another thing.
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Post by AudioHTIT on Apr 10, 2020 17:26:36 GMT -5
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on Apr 10, 2020 19:44:37 GMT -5
REW can do all sorts of interesting things... but it's main benefit is in measuring frequency response and calculating correction filters for it. REW measures each channel separately... one at a time... And then calculates "standard PEQ-based corrections" to adjust the frequency response. Just use the "Distance" settings on the processor to adjust the relative timing.
(Trying to control and rely on things like the latency in your computer audio drivers is really complex... and unnecessary.) If you're really obsessive about the timing... here's something you could try. Record a monaural audio file with a single sharp loud "tick" sound on it... like a metronone.
Play that file through your processor in All Stereo. At your prime listening position the tick should sound sharp and clear... with no doubling... and no echoes. If you hear multiple ticks, or a sort of blurry tick, or echoes... then adjust your distance settings until the ticks sound sharp and clear. You could put a microphone at your listening position and look at the sound on your computer screen with your favorite audio editor.
The tick is PLAYING at exactly the same time on all your speakers. Therefore, when the sound is arriving from all of them at the same time, you'll see a single spike on the screen... and your speakers are time aligned. (Due to the room, and your speakers, you won't get it perfect... but, the closer, the better.)
I've attached a little bit of advice about using REW with your processor...
NOTE:
While all of the other channels work properly... the manual PEQ settings in the subwoofer channel do not work in firmware v1.9 and some previous versions. This has been addressed in beta versions of the firmware and will be working properly in the next release. I’m with you. It’s a pain but since I rearranged my room to fit the front wides, I gotta re do it. I don’t think you gotta worry about speaker distance when you run REW, since the measurements are independent of each other. I hope I’m right bc I’m not going to bother with that (or I might now that you mentioned it 😂). This is an area I know just enough to be dangerous... And most the time I am wrong. After thinking through it, I'd say the main issue would just be having your speakers in proper time alignment. This would be more critical on speakers that roll off to your subs, but most important on LCR I would think. Rew allows you to specify a timing speaker as well. I understand a lot of this when I'm watching videos, but putting it into practice is another thing.
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