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Post by rdavidw on Jan 28, 2020 8:57:03 GMT -5
Having trouble with using a remote eye on the IR in on the back of the XMC-1. I have a pair of A-150 amps that drive two sets of outdoor speakers from the Zone-2 off my XMC-1. I just added a outdoor tv and want to use a programmable remote control for that TV and the XMC-1 Zone-2 audio controls. (I tried to set up the smartphone app but couldn't and would prefer a dedicated outdoor remote that the wife and kids can use.) I ran a 25' stereo mini jack line from the XMC-1 IR In to this IR receiver, mounted next to the outdoor tv: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0155FNLZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1The programmable remote works fine when inside pointed at the XMC-1 but does not work when outside pointed to the IR remote receiver (The XMC-1 was turned on at the time). Page 80 of the manual is not clear to me on how to set up a remote IR eye. I would like both the regular remote to work in the house and the outdoor remote to work outside off the IR eye. Do I have to change something in the settings to turn the IR In on? Can I have it on and still have the regular front IR on? Do have to also use a IR blaster and run that near the front of the XMC-1? Thanks for the help. |
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Post by 405x5 on Jan 28, 2020 9:31:04 GMT -5
Having trouble with using a remote eye on the IR in on the back of the XMC-1. I have a pair of A-150 amps that drive two sets of outdoor speakers from the Zone-2 off my XMC-1. I just added a outdoor tv and want to use a programmable remote control for that TV and the XMC-1 Zone-2 audio controls. (I tried to set up the smartphone app but couldn't and would prefer a dedicated outdoor remote that the wife and kids can use.) I ran a 25' stereo mini jack line from the XMC-1 IR In to this IR receiver, mounted next to the outdoor tv: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0155FNLZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1The programmable remote works fine when inside pointed at the XMC-1 but does not work when outside pointed to the IR remote receiver (The XMC-1 was turned on at the time). Page 80 of the manual is not clear to me on how to set up a remote IR eye. I would like both the regular remote to work in the house and the outdoor remote to work outside off the IR eye. Do I have to change something in the settings to turn the IR In on? Can I have it on and still have the regular front IR on? Do have to also use a IR blaster and run that near the front of the XMC-1? Thanks for the help. I thought the IR was an alternate to the front eye for instances when the front of the XMC is obstructed, for whatever reason. Have you run both front and back simultaneously in the past? Not sure that can be done? I’ll be curious to see the answer. Bill |
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KeithL
Administrator 
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Post by KeithL on Jan 28, 2020 9:31:31 GMT -5
OK.... that's an easy one.
The IR eye you tried is a passive one - meaning that it expects to be supplied with operating voltage by whatever it's plugged in to.
The "IR" input on the XMC-1 requires an active UR eye (it doesn't supply operating voltage).
Basically, the unit you've got plugs into a little box, which provides the power to run it, boosts the signal, and passes it on to the XMC-1.
These boxes often include a pickup (what you've got), the box itself, and one or more emitters (often referred to as "flashers"). When used by themselves, you plug the pickup and the emitter into the repeater box, put the pickup someplace convenient, and put the emitter in front of your cable box or other device. Whatever signal the pickup sees is boosted by the box and broadcast from the emitter (which takes the place of the remote control).
With the XMC-1, you want to connect the pickup to the little booster box, but connect the output of the box to the IR input of the XMC-1 instead of to a flasher).
(You connect the IR input on the XMC-1 to the output on the box marked "flasher" or "emitter".
Here's a whole set for $20 from Monoprice:
And here's just the box (but with some extra features) from Amazon:
(I haven't tried these particular units, but they should work... it's sort of standard. Monoprice used to offer a complete set for about $29, which we have used, but I don't see it listed any more.)
Having trouble with using a remote eye on the IR in on the back of the XMC-1. I have a pair of A-150 amps that drive two sets of outdoor speakers from the Zone-2 off my XMC-1. I just added a outdoor tv and want to use a programmable remote control for that TV and the XMC-1 Zone-2 audio controls. (I tried to set up the smartphone app but couldn't and would prefer a dedicated outdoor remote that the wife and kids can use.) I ran a 25' stereo mini jack line from the XMC-1 IR In to this IR receiver, mounted next to the outdoor tv: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0155FNLZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1The programmable remote works fine when inside pointed at the XMC-1 but does not work when outside pointed to the IR remote receiver (The XMC-1 was turned on at the time). Page 80 of the manual is not clear to me on how to set up a remote IR eye. I would like both the regular remote to work in the house and the outdoor remote to work outside off the IR eye. Do I have to change something in the settings to turn the IR In on? Can I have it on and still have the regular front IR on? Do have to also use a IR blaster and run that near the front of the XMC-1? Thanks for the help. |
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Post by RichGuy on Jan 28, 2020 9:33:02 GMT -5
The rear IR port mini jack must be turned ON in the settings to work and if I remember right turning the rear jack ON turns OFF the XMC-1's front IR receiver.
I am only going by memory at the moment as I haven't done anything with this in some time, but I do use only the rear IR input jack with my system.
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 9,928
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Post by KeithL on Jan 28, 2020 9:44:23 GMT -5
In general both the front sensor and the rear IR input should usually coexist just fine. (I'm pretty sure the rear panel input is on by default... and I'm not sure it can be turned off... since you can just not plug it in if you don't want to use it.)
Note that the XMC-1 has a front panel blaster - which emits a copy of whatever you send in the rear panel input. Sometimes this can interfere with other options (and it can be disabled). (The front panel blaster is intended for use when the XMC-1 is in a cabinet with other gear.
In that situation, if you use the rear panel IR input, the blaster "relays" the signal to other components inside the same cabinet. )
Likewise, it is possible for the front panel sensor to interfere with the signal coming in from the rear panel input. Even though they can be used at the same time, in rare instances the signals themselves can end up interfering, which can cause problems. (And, if so, the front panel pickup can also be disabled.)
Having trouble with using a remote eye on the IR in on the back of the XMC-1. I have a pair of A-150 amps that drive two sets of outdoor speakers from the Zone-2 off my XMC-1. I just added a outdoor tv and want to use a programmable remote control for that TV and the XMC-1 Zone-2 audio controls. (I tried to set up the smartphone app but couldn't and would prefer a dedicated outdoor remote that the wife and kids can use.) I ran a 25' stereo mini jack line from the XMC-1 IR In to this IR receiver, mounted next to the outdoor tv: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0155FNLZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1The programmable remote works fine when inside pointed at the XMC-1 but does not work when outside pointed to the IR remote receiver (The XMC-1 was turned on at the time). Page 80 of the manual is not clear to me on how to set up a remote IR eye. I would like both the regular remote to work in the house and the outdoor remote to work outside off the IR eye. Do I have to change something in the settings to turn the IR In on? Can I have it on and still have the regular front IR on? Do have to also use a IR blaster and run that near the front of the XMC-1? Thanks for the help. I thought the IR was an alternate to the front eye for instances when the front of the XMC is obstructed, for whatever reason. Have you run both front and back simultaneously in the past? Not sure that can be done? I’ll be curious to see the answer. Bill |
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Post by RichGuy on Jan 28, 2020 10:00:20 GMT -5
OK maybe I was remembering wrong about the front and rear IR both working, I think I just turned OFF my front input in the settings.
I use rear IR 3.5mm inputs for almost everything in my system so I can control everything reliably without pointing a remote or even being in the same room as my equipment.
I use a URC MX-990 remote with MRF-350 IR/RF control base to combine both infrared and radio frequencies so that my remote works through walls etc.
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Post by creimes on Jan 28, 2020 10:01:51 GMT -5
I have tried to get mine working on two different XMC-1's with no success, I connect a mono trigger cable from the emitter output to my XMC-1 IR input on the rear and nadda nothing. OK.... that's an easy one. The IR eye you tried is a passive one - meaning that it expects to be supplied with operating voltage by whatever it's plugged in to. The "IR" input on the XMC-1 requires an active UR eye (it doesn't supply operating voltage).
Basically, the unit you've got plugs into a little box, which provides the power to run it, boosts the signal, and passes it on to the XMC-1. These boxes often include a pickup (what you've got), the box itself, and one or more emitters (often referred to as "flashers"). When used by themselves, you plug the pickup and the emitter into the repeater box, put the pickup someplace convenient, and put the emitter in front of your cable box or other device. Whatever signal the pickup sees is boosted by the box and broadcast from the emitter (which takes the place of the remote control). With the XMC-1, you want to connect the pickup to the little booster box, but connect the output of the box to the IR input of the XMC-1 instead of to a flasher).
(You connect the IR input on the XMC-1 to the output on the box marked "flasher" or "emitter".
Here's a whole set for $20 from Monoprice:
And here's just the box (but with some extra features) from Amazon:
(I haven't tried these particular units, but they should work... it's sort of standard. Monoprice used to offer a complete set for about $29, which we have used, but I don't see it listed any more.)
Having trouble with using a remote eye on the IR in on the back of the XMC-1. I have a pair of A-150 amps that drive two sets of outdoor speakers from the Zone-2 off my XMC-1. I just added a outdoor tv and want to use a programmable remote control for that TV and the XMC-1 Zone-2 audio controls. (I tried to set up the smartphone app but couldn't and would prefer a dedicated outdoor remote that the wife and kids can use.) I ran a 25' stereo mini jack line from the XMC-1 IR In to this IR receiver, mounted next to the outdoor tv: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0155FNLZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1The programmable remote works fine when inside pointed at the XMC-1 but does not work when outside pointed to the IR remote receiver (The XMC-1 was turned on at the time). Page 80 of the manual is not clear to me on how to set up a remote IR eye. I would like both the regular remote to work in the house and the outdoor remote to work outside off the IR eye. Do I have to change something in the settings to turn the IR In on? Can I have it on and still have the regular front IR on? Do have to also use a IR blaster and run that near the front of the XMC-1? Thanks for the help. |
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 9,928
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Post by KeithL on Jan 28, 2020 10:27:34 GMT -5
There is a reason why this sometimes doesn't work with certain repeater boxes - and in certain installations.
The output of the repeater box is in the form of a digital signal that carries a series of numbers that make up "the IR code". In order for the digital signal to be read by the XMC-1 it must be "clean"... "1's" must be above a certain voltage and "0's" must be below a certain voltage. While the output of most of these boxes fits the requirements - not all do. Some boxes are simply "sloppy" and fail to pull the output as low as they should for the zeros (LED type flashers are quite insensitive to this).
And, in some situations, if the room has bright lights, or there are other IR emitters in the area, there may be enough "IR background noise" to interfere with the signal. (Most of these boxes don't actually pick out and clean up the signal... they simply amplify and rebroadcast whatever is picked up by the sensor.)
Frequent offenders include sunlight, fluorescent lights, CFL bulbs, LED bulbs, motion detectors, and the back light on some TV screens - especially plasmas. To check for this simply see if the remote works when EVERYTHING in the room is turned off... or put the pickup and the remote control together under an opaque cardboard box and see if it works... (Believe it or not a towel or thin blanket may not be opaque enough to block out IR light. Putting both temporarily under a corrugated cardboard box works well.)
If this happens, once you single out the device causing the interference, you can often solve the problem simply by repositioning the pickup. Point it in a different direction, slightly away from the offending noise source... Or put it behind a corner so the TV doesn't shine directly on it... Or even enclose it in a small tube to block signals from certain directions.
They sell fancy little gadgets to do this, and fancy directional sensors, but often a small cardboard tube will do the job.
I have tried to get mine working on two different XMC-1's with no success, I connect a mono trigger cable from the emitter output to my XMC-1 IR input on the rear and nadda nothing. OK.... that's an easy one. The IR eye you tried is a passive one - meaning that it expects to be supplied with operating voltage by whatever it's plugged in to. The "IR" input on the XMC-1 requires an active UR eye (it doesn't supply operating voltage).
Basically, the unit you've got plugs into a little box, which provides the power to run it, boosts the signal, and passes it on to the XMC-1. These boxes often include a pickup (what you've got), the box itself, and one or more emitters (often referred to as "flashers"). When used by themselves, you plug the pickup and the emitter into the repeater box, put the pickup someplace convenient, and put the emitter in front of your cable box or other device. Whatever signal the pickup sees is boosted by the box and broadcast from the emitter (which takes the place of the remote control). With the XMC-1, you want to connect the pickup to the little booster box, but connect the output of the box to the IR input of the XMC-1 instead of to a flasher).
(You connect the IR input on the XMC-1 to the output on the box marked "flasher" or "emitter".
Here's a whole set for $20 from Monoprice:
And here's just the box (but with some extra features) from Amazon:
(I haven't tried these particular units, but they should work... it's sort of standard. Monoprice used to offer a complete set for about $29, which we have used, but I don't see it listed any more.)
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Post by creimes on Jan 28, 2020 11:26:01 GMT -5
Currently I am using my IR repeater with one of the "eyes" stuck on the front of the XMC-1 and all is fine, but if I try and use a connection between the repeater unit and the XMC-1 via 3.5mm mono cable I get nothing, the odd thing is connected to the rear ir input of my previous PT-7020 it worked perfect, like I mentioned not a big deal as the eye stuck on the front works fine but it looks nicer without the eye stuck on the front lol. Chad There is a reason why this sometimes doesn't work with certain repeater boxes - and in certain installations. The output of the repeater box is in the form of a digital signal that carries a series of numbers that make up "the IR code". In order for the digital signal to be read by the XMC-1 it must be "clean"... "1's" must be above a certain voltage and "0's" must be below a certain voltage. While the output of most of these boxes fits the requirements - not all do. Some boxes are simply "sloppy" and fail to pull the output as low as they should for the zeros (LED type flashers are quite insensitive to this). And, in some situations, if the room has bright lights, or there are other IR emitters in the area, there may be enough "IR background noise" to interfere with the signal. (Most of these boxes don't actually pick out and clean up the signal... they simply amplify and rebroadcast whatever is picked up by the sensor.)
Frequent offenders include sunlight, fluorescent lights, CFL bulbs, LED bulbs, motion detectors, and the back light on some TV screens - especially plasmas. To check for this simply see if the remote works when EVERYTHING in the room is turned off... or put the pickup and the remote control together under an opaque cardboard box and see if it works... (Believe it or not a towel or thin blanket may not be opaque enough to block out IR light. Putting both temporarily under a corrugated cardboard box works well.)
If this happens, once you single out the device causing the interference, you can often solve the problem simply by repositioning the pickup. Point it in a different direction, slightly away from the offending noise source... Or put it behind a corner so the TV doesn't shine directly on it... Or even enclose it in a small tube to block signals from certain directions.
They sell fancy little gadgets to do this, and fancy directional sensors, but often a small cardboard tube will do the job.
I have tried to get mine working on two different XMC-1's with no success, I connect a mono trigger cable from the emitter output to my XMC-1 IR input on the rear and nadda nothing. |
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Post by rdavidw on Jan 30, 2020 21:57:07 GMT -5
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