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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2020 9:52:23 GMT -5
A friend just picked up the LG OLED C9 series from Costco and loves it. They double the manufacturers warranty and have in the past thrown in two more years if you use the Costco Visa card. I believe the current special is $99 three year Square Trade warranty. It was on sale at Christmas for two hundred dollars less than it is now. If you go for the Samsung, The Big Screen Store will double the manufacturers warranty, will add additional years for fifty bucks a year, and they price match. Their home delivery and setup is very good too. What's a Costco? Just kidding. I know what they are but the closest one is 100 miles away. After much deliberation, I chose the 65" LG OLED B9. It was a tough choice between that and the Samsung Q80. I really couldn't have made a bad choice between the two, but I felt the Samsung as compared to the LG had a slight haze in the blacks and the colors were almost too vivid. Though this may really just be how they were set up for display. As for C9 vs C8 in the LGs, I had a very hard time finding any difference that justified the cost difference. My wife, who really didn't care, but whose opinion I value as a reality check had a slight preference for the Samsung. It was the vivid colors that she liked. I couldn't finish mounting it last night and tonight I have dinner plans so it won't get a chance to view my new purchase till this weekend. The wait is going to drive me nuts. I am just blown away at the picture quality of these new sets. My Sony was very nice, but I have a feeling once I get this one all set up I'm going to see a big improvement. Between Disney WOW and Spears and Munsil which would be the preferred calibration disc? I ordered my Sony OLED from Crutchfield: www.crutchfield.com/ I believe Crutchfield also has a price guarantee. As far as the C8 vs C9 like you I also had a hard time deciding and went with the C8 from Sony.
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Post by doc1963 on Feb 6, 2020 10:38:38 GMT -5
... After much deliberation, I chose the 65" LG OLED B9. It was a tough choice between that and the Samsung Q80. I really couldn't have made a bad choice between the two, but I felt the Samsung as compared to the LG had a slight haze in the blacks and the colors were almost too vivid. Though this may really just be how they were set up for display. As for C9 vs C8 in the LGs, I had a very hard time finding any difference that justified the cost difference. My wife, who really didn't care, but whose opinion I value as a reality check had a slight preference for the Samsung. It was the vivid colors that she liked. I couldn't finish mounting it last night and tonight I have dinner plans so it won't get a chance to view my new purchase till this weekend. The wait is going to drive me nuts. I am just blown away at the picture quality of these new sets. My Sony was very nice, but I have a feeling once I get this one all set up I'm going to see a big improvement. Between Disney WOW and Spears and Munsil which would be the preferred calibration disc? You’ll find that the kind folks at Rtings has already done most of the heavy lifting for you. They will advise that their settings are only specific to the panel they have tested and that all panels will vary. That is true and I would not recommend using their “calibration” settings, but they can at least give you some basics to start from. You can always “Reset to Defaults” per picture mode if you don’t like what you see. I would highly suggest reading their full review found HERE to get a good feel for the capabilities of the TV and what you should (and shouldn’t) do before you start using it on a regular viewing basis. It is also very important to read their in depth “burn-in” study that is tagged in the review. Personally, I always suggest that one of the first things that should be done with an OLED panel is to turn down the “OLED Light” setting to 50 and work your way up only as much as needed to achieve a satisfying picture in your viewing environment. My 55” C6 (with over 16,000 hours “on” time) is sitting in my living room which is well lit during daylight hours. I don’t find the need to have an OLED Light setting much higher than 50 (I believe it’s set to 55) to achieve a quite satisfying and naturally bright picture. I’m not quite sure why they ship these things from the factory with the OLED Light setting fully maxed out at 100, but they do. OLED Light does not effect your basic contrast. It’s also important to turn off all artificial picture “enhancements” like “TruMotion”, “Edge Enhancement” and “Super Resolution”. You can always go back and try them later if you like what they do. Most of us prefer them turned off, but everyone has their own preferences. Another point to remember is that all picture settings are specific (and remembered) to that particular “picture mode” on that particular input. All picture settings on each input are proprietary and are not “one and done” universal settings. If you want the same picture mode settings to apply to all inputs, then remember to click “ Apply to all Inputs” so that you don’t have to do each and every one individually. Some of the settings (like picture “enhancements”) do not carry over, so you will have to do those per mode and per input. The good thing is that you’re likely not going to use every mode or every input, but do remember that the settings are not universal. Additionally, the internal "Smart TV" app section is not considered an input and has its own settings as well. Lastly, with all Dolby Vision settings, it is important to leave these just as they are set from the factory (aside from the artificial motion and sharpening enhancements) as Dolby has certified them specifically for this particular TV. Changing them take you away from what Dolby has intended and shouldn’t be touched by anyone other than a certified calibration specialist who has the skills and the right tools to do so. Congratulations on your purchase and I hope it brings you many years of enjoyment. Both of mine are now over 3 years old and I have no plans of replacing them until I absolutely have too...
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2020 10:41:14 GMT -5
... After much deliberation, I chose the 65" LG OLED B9. It was a tough choice between that and the Samsung Q80. I really couldn't have made a bad choice between the two, but I felt the Samsung as compared to the LG had a slight haze in the blacks and the colors were almost too vivid. Though this may really just be how they were set up for display. As for C9 vs C8 in the LGs, I had a very hard time finding any difference that justified the cost difference. My wife, who really didn't care, but whose opinion I value as a reality check had a slight preference for the Samsung. It was the vivid colors that she liked. I couldn't finish mounting it last night and tonight I have dinner plans so it won't get a chance to view my new purchase till this weekend. The wait is going to drive me nuts. I am just blown away at the picture quality of these new sets. My Sony was very nice, but I have a feeling once I get this one all set up I'm going to see a big improvement. Between Disney WOW and Spears and Munsil which would be the preferred calibration disc? You’ll find that the kind folks at Rtings has already done most of the heavy lifting for you. They will advise that their settings are only specific to the panel they have tested and that all panels will vary. That is true and I would not recommend using their “calibration” settings, but they can at least give you some basics to start from. You can always “Reset to Defaults” per picture mode if you don’t like what you see. I would highly suggest reading their full review found HERE to get a good feel for the capabilities of the TV and what you should (and shouldn’t) do before you start using it on a regular viewing basis. It is also very important to read their in depth “burn-in” study that is tagged in the review. Personally, I always suggest that one of the first things that should be done with an OLED panel is to turn down the “OLED Light” setting to 50 and work your way up only as much as needed to achieve a satisfying picture in your viewing environment. My 55” C6 (with over 8,000 hours “on” time) is sitting in my living room which is well lit during daylight hours. I don’t find the need to have an OLED Light setting much higher than 50 (I believe it’s set to 55) to achieve a quite satisfying and naturally bright picture. I’m not quite sure why they ship these things from the factory with the OLED Light setting fully maxed out at 100, but they do. OLED Light does not effect your basic contrast. It’s also important to turn off all artificial picture “enhancements” like “TruMotion”, “Edge Enhancement” and “Super Resolution”. You can always go back and try them later if you like what they do. Most of us prefer them turned off, but everyone has their own preferences. Another point to remember is that all picture settings are specific (and remembered) to that particular “picture mode” on that particular input. All picture settings on each input are proprietary and are not “one and done” universal settings. If you want the same picture mode settings to apply to all inputs, then remember to click “ Apply to all Inputs” so that you don’t have to do each and every one individually. Some of the settings (like picture “enhancements”) do not carry over, so you will have to do those per mode and per input. The good thing is that you’re likely not going to use every mode or every input, but do remember that the settings are not universal. Lastly, with all Dolby Vision settings, it is important to leave these just as they are set from the factory (aside from the artificial motion and sharpening enhancements) as Dolby has certified them. Changing them take you away from what Dolby has intended and shouldn’t be touched by anyone other than a certified calibration specialist who has the skills and the right tools to do so. Congratulations on your purchase and I hope it brings you many years of enjoyment. Both of mine are now over 3 years old and I have no plans of replacing them until I absolutely have too... I noted the maxed out light setting too. Just curious if that's the "maximum" lighting because the TV actually auto dims depending on lighting in the room. I also note that the AVSforum has calibration settings people share for various TV models. I used one as a baseline.
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Post by tropicallutefisk on Feb 6, 2020 10:48:32 GMT -5
Thanks for the excellent advice doc1963.
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cawgijoe
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"We made too many of the wrong mistakes." - Yogi Berra
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Post by cawgijoe on Feb 6, 2020 10:50:39 GMT -5
... After much deliberation, I chose the 65" LG OLED B9. It was a tough choice between that and the Samsung Q80. I really couldn't have made a bad choice between the two, but I felt the Samsung as compared to the LG had a slight haze in the blacks and the colors were almost too vivid. Though this may really just be how they were set up for display. As for C9 vs C8 in the LGs, I had a very hard time finding any difference that justified the cost difference. My wife, who really didn't care, but whose opinion I value as a reality check had a slight preference for the Samsung. It was the vivid colors that she liked. I couldn't finish mounting it last night and tonight I have dinner plans so it won't get a chance to view my new purchase till this weekend. The wait is going to drive me nuts. I am just blown away at the picture quality of these new sets. My Sony was very nice, but I have a feeling once I get this one all set up I'm going to see a big improvement. Between Disney WOW and Spears and Munsil which would be the preferred calibration disc? You’ll find that the kind folks at Rtings has already done most of the heavy lifting for you. They will advise that their settings are only specific to the panel they have tested and that all panels will vary. That is true and I would not recommend using their “calibration” settings, but they can at least give you some basics to start from. You can always “Reset to Defaults” per picture mode if you don’t like what you see. I would highly suggest reading their full review found HERE to get a good feel for the capabilities of the TV and what you should (and shouldn’t) do before you start using it on a regular viewing basis. It is also very important to read their in depth “burn-in” study that is tagged in the review. Personally, I always suggest that one of the first things that should be done with an OLED panel is to turn down the “OLED Light” setting to 50 and work your way up only as much as needed to achieve a satisfying picture in your viewing environment. My 55” C6 (with over 8,000 hours “on” time) is sitting in my living room which is well lit during daylight hours. I don’t find the need to have an OLED Light setting much higher than 50 (I believe it’s set to 55) to achieve a quite satisfying and naturally bright picture. I’m not quite sure why they ship these things from the factory with the OLED Light setting fully maxed out at 100, but they do. OLED Light does not effect your basic contrast. It’s also important to turn off all artificial picture “enhancements” like “TruMotion”, “Edge Enhancement” and “Super Resolution”. You can always go back and try them later if you like what they do. Most of us prefer them turned off, but everyone has their own preferences. Another point to remember is that all picture settings are specific (and remembered) to that particular “picture mode” on that particular input. All picture settings on each input are proprietary and are not “one and done” universal settings. If you want the same picture mode settings to apply to all inputs, then remember to click “ Apply to all Inputs” so that you don’t have to do each and every one individually. Some of the settings (like picture “enhancements”) do not carry over, so you will have to do those per mode and per input. The good thing is that you’re likely not going to use every mode or every input, but do remember that the settings are not universal. Lastly, with all Dolby Vision settings, it is important to leave these just as they are set from the factory (aside from the artificial motion and sharpening enhancements) as Dolby has certified them. Changing them take you away from what Dolby has intended and shouldn’t be touched by anyone other than a certified calibration specialist who has the skills and the right tools to do so. Congratulations on your purchase and I hope it brings you many years of enjoyment. Both of mine are now over 3 years old and I have no plans of replacing them until I absolutely have too... Due to the many settings in a TV set these days, I actually do use the Rtings "calibration" settings, or Cnet for that matter and then tweak from there. I realize that all sets are different, but I also understand that they use calibration equipment that I don't have to reach these optimal settings. So, I use their settings and then use a calibration bluray to tweak what I can. Some settings remain the same, others change. YMMV. Most of the professional including Rtings will tell you to turn off the enhancement settings. That's a very good idea especially before calibration. I agree with everything else Doc has said. He is spot on!
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Post by doc1963 on Feb 6, 2020 11:01:25 GMT -5
Due to the many settings in a TV set these days, I actually do use the Rtings "calibration" settings, or Cnet for that matter and then tweak from there. I realize that all sets are different, but I also understand that they use calibration equipment that I don't have to reach these optimal settings. So, I use their settings and then use a calibration bluray to tweak what I can. Some settings remain the same, others change. YMMV. Most of the professional including Rtings will tell you to turn off the enhancement settings. That's a very good idea especially before calibration. I agree with everything else Doc has said. He is spot on! Correct... I failed to complete my thought. I should have said not to use them as a "golden ticket" because all panels will naturally vary to some degree. They're absolutely a good starting point...
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Post by doc1963 on Feb 6, 2020 13:05:35 GMT -5
I noted the maxed out light setting too. Just curious if that's the "maximum" lighting because the TV actually auto dims depending on lighting in the room. I also note that the AVSforum has calibration settings people share for various TV models. I used one as a baseline. I can't say what their reasoning is behind this, but I've always found that it's better to start at a midpoint, work your way up and stop when the picture is "bright enough" for your viewing environment. For an OLED (which, as we know, emits their own light), going any higher than necessary just works towards diminishing the lifespan of the pixel...
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Post by Gary Cook on Feb 6, 2020 14:24:14 GMT -5
Even on max an OLED TV just isn’t bright enough in my room for HDR, it needs around 800 to 1000 nits to show the (as Keith calls them) specular effects whilst not making the darker scenes too dark.
Cheers Gary
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2020 15:30:04 GMT -5
Even on max an OLED TV just isn’t bright enough in my room for HDR, it needs around 800 to 1000 nits to show the (as Keith calls them) specular effects whilst not making the darker scenes too dark. Cheers Gary My thoughts exactly. From what I understand the auto dim does not work in HD or Dolby Vision mode [someone verify]. The auto dim only works with lesser formats. I do wish the screen was a tad brighter but I've learned to turn the lights down in the room to compensate. Also I noted that the type of lights in the room make a difference. I mean some of the lights I have mimic candle light [yellow] and it has impact on the screen in comparison to the pendant lights I have which are really white.
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KeithL
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Post by KeithL on Feb 6, 2020 16:47:01 GMT -5
Here's my two cents here.....
1) Modern TVs are better than TVs from yesteryear when it comes to consistency and being more or less right "out of the box". (Many look pretty good without any adjustment at all.)
2) Although panels do vary, and an actual calibration will be the most accurate choice, I've always found the suggestions on RTINGS.COM to be useful, and an excellent starting point.
3) If you purchase a new TV, and don't want to go through a full calibration procedure, it still pays to look through the configuration menus. Many modern sets offer a variety of color profiles like "sports" and "movies". I strongly suggest that you try each and see which looks better to you. Don't make assumptions about which will look more natural or better to you... there is no standard for what they mean. Also don't assume that the default setting is the best one... they are often chosen to make a TV catch your eye in the showroom. (And settings that catch your eye in a brightly lit store are often far too bright or garishly colorful in a living room.) Likewise, "sharpness" and "smooth motion options" vary widely between manufacturers, so see for yourself which of those you prefer as well.
4) It should also come as no surprise that the settings that look best with demo videos don't necessarily look the best with actual movies. The demos are mastered so as to get the most benefit from a top quality modern TV... Most movies are mastered to look their best on the TVs that most of their audience actually owns... The two don't always work out to the same thing. (Do you want your new TV to look best with a super high quality demo, or with the reruns you normally watch, or are you willing to compromise?)
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Post by vcautokid on Feb 7, 2020 6:39:30 GMT -5
I don't care what profile or settings you pick. Just make sure it is out of demo mode! Or as I call the "please sir take me home mode" used in the stores due their lighting etc. Your lighting is never the stores lighting unless you live in a store, than null and void on that one, but otherwise yeah, see rtings.com for some good pointers to get started. Ultimately if your OCD is on overdrive, asf calibration maybe for you. Not cheap! But in all types displayed it makes the picture right!
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