|
|
Post by Boomzilla on Mar 6, 2020 7:35:38 GMT -5
I've been using a HP desktop as an audio server. The machine boots from a SSD drive, and has a 6TB second drive installed internally to hold my music library. The drive was formatted in Windows 10 (EXFAT) internally to the desktop, and is a "plain vanilla" SATA drive.
Wanting to change my configuration, I pulled the SATA drive from the HP, installed it in a cradle adapter, and tried to use it as an external USB drive. This was totally unsuccessful. Not only is the drive not even recognized by my Win-7 machine or my Macs, but the original HP desktop with Win-10 won't recognize it as a USB drive either! Yet when I reinstall the drive internally on the HP, the drive works fine.
I've been told that the problem lies in the BIOS. What need I change to make this drive universally usable as a USB drive?
|
|
|
|
Post by vcautokid on Mar 6, 2020 8:14:54 GMT -5
Did you look at Legacy and UEFI boot mode in bios. Also that Win 7 machine should not see the outside world as no more security fixes are available from Microsoft as of January 22nd 2020. That computer is now a risk and vulnerable.
|
|
|
|
Post by ÈlTwo on Mar 6, 2020 8:37:18 GMT -5
Have you tried a different drive in the cradle adapter?
Does the adapter run on external power?
|
|
|
|
Post by ÈlTwo on Mar 6, 2020 8:39:36 GMT -5
As for the BIOS, it depends upon your motherboard. If it is an older adapter, you may have to allow legacy USB connections, and some BIOS require you to explicitly permit USB storage.
|
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on Mar 6, 2020 9:40:34 GMT -5
Have you tried a different drive in the cradle adapter? Does the adapter run on external power? Adapter cradle is self-powered. Works with all other drives. |
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on Mar 6, 2020 9:43:09 GMT -5
As for the BIOS, it depends upon your motherboard. If it is an older adapter, you may have to allow legacy USB connections, and some BIOS require you to explicitly permit USB storage. Don’t need BIOS on HP to allow USB drives - already does. Need to make current internal drive usable as external USB. |
|
|
|
Post by ÈlTwo on Mar 6, 2020 11:20:23 GMT -5
Model of HP machine?
Now that I'm at my office, I actually have one in front of me.
|
|
|
|
Post by garbulky on Mar 6, 2020 11:46:10 GMT -5
I've been using a HP desktop as an audio server. The machine boots from a SSD drive, and has a 6TB second drive installed internally to hold my music library. The drive was formatted in Windows 10 (EXFAT) internally to the desktop, and is a "plain vanilla" SATA drive. Wanting to change my configuration, I pulled the SATA drive from the HP, installed it in a cradle adapter, and tried to use it as an external USB drive. This was totally unsuccessful. Not only is the drive not even recognized by my Win-7 machine or my Macs, but the original HP desktop with Win-10 won't recognize it as a USB drive either! Yet when I reinstall the drive internally on the HP, the drive works fine. I've been told that the problem lies in the BIOS. What need I change to make this drive universally usable as a USB drive? Did you try the mounting technique? |
|
|
|
Post by Jean Genie on Mar 6, 2020 13:13:28 GMT -5
Have you tried a different drive in the cradle adapter? Does the adapter run on external power? Adapter cradle is self-powered. Works with all other drives. Did you re-set the jumpers? The drive should have a chart showing different jumper settings. Try setting the jumpers to "slave"? Then you may need to reconfigure the BIOS. Sorry I can't be more help, it's been a long time since I've done any of this kinda stuff.  |
|
|
|
Post by ÈlTwo on Mar 6, 2020 14:36:58 GMT -5
Use Windows+R hotkey to open Run window. Then type "Diskmgmt.
In the Disk Management console see if the drive is listed but not assigned a letter.
If the drive is there, but doesn't have a letter, right click on the drive and assign a drive letter.
If it's not there, then:
Last questions, and then I'll see if I can find an answer by tonight:
Make and model of the machine the drive was pulled from,
Make and model of the hard drive,
make and model of the cradle.
|
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on Mar 6, 2020 15:47:34 GMT -5
Use Windows+R hotkey to open Run window. Then type "Diskmgmt. In the Disk Management console see if the drive is listed but not assigned a letter. If the drive is there, but doesn't have a letter, right click on the drive and assign a drive letter. If it's not there, then: Last questions, and then I'll see if I can find an answer by tonight: Make and model of the machine the drive was pulled from, Make and model of the hard drive, make and model of the cradle. Good questions... As of right now, the drive is still internal & working. Once I get the data on it edited & moved, I'll try reformatting the thing & see how that works. The desktop machine is a HP 2UA3491SJ2 with an i5 processor & 8GB ram The drive is a 6TB Seagate SATA with no jumpers The cradle is a SABRENTE4C-DFLT |
|
|
|
Post by garbulky on Mar 6, 2020 15:51:51 GMT -5
Use Windows+R hotkey to open Run window. Then type "Diskmgmt. In the Disk Management console see if the drive is listed but not assigned a letter. If the drive is there, but doesn't have a letter, right click on the drive and assign a drive letter. If it's not there, then: Last questions, and then I'll see if I can find an answer by tonight: Make and model of the machine the drive was pulled from, Make and model of the hard drive, make and model of the cradle. Good questions... As of right now, the drive is still internal & working. Once I get the data on it edited & moved, I'll try reformatting the thing & see how that works. The desktop machine is a HP 2UA3491SJ2 with an i5 processor & 8GB ram The drive is a 6TB Seagate SATA with no jumpers The cradle is a SABRENTE4C-DFLT (reposting In case you didn't see it) Did you try the mounting technique? |
|
KeithL
Administrator 
Posts: 9,938
|
Post by KeithL on Mar 6, 2020 16:27:51 GMT -5
The "adapter cradle" is actually a rather complicated device.
Various specific models have their own quirky limitations and requirements.
- some won't work with older versions of Windows
- some won't work with specific drives or with drives over a certain size
- it could just plain be non-working
I've run into a similar situation with new external USB drives.
Windows 10 recognizes them but Windows 7 does not.
And, when I try to access them with a drive manager utility under Windows 7, it also is unable to recognize or modify them.
If there is a viable solution it probably involves accessing the drive using Windows 10...
From there you might be able to identify that it is using something that Windows 7 doesn't support...
And, if so, you might be able to re-format the drive to work with Windows 7...
Unfortunately some of these devices require drivers or other specific types of support that are built into Windows 10...
However those drivers may not be present in Windows 7... and may not be available as separate drivers you can install.
|
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on Mar 6, 2020 20:17:21 GMT -5
(reposting In case you didn't see it) Did you try the mounting technique? I have not tried any mounting methods yet. Why not? Because as of now, this drive is still installed inside the HP machine, and is working properly. Once I finish sorting the data on the drive, and then transferring it to a different external drive, and then reformatting the internal drive - then (and only then) will I remove it from the HP machine and try again with the cradle. Despite KeithL's skepticism about drive cradle compatibility, the SABRENT cradle that I have has successfully worked with EVERY SATA drive both smaller & larger in capacity, both older and newer, and both bought as raw drives or salvaged from computers / external USB housings that I've tried it with - EXCEPT for the drive under discussion. And I'm pretty well convinced that not the hardware but the drive format (done by Windows 10) is the culprit. The "most universal format" I've gotten on multiple drives that I've tried is from an old MacBook pro (using about a 3-generation old version of OS-X). I can format any drive in either FAT32 or EXFAT from that machine, and the drives will work with ANY version of Windows OR OS-X. The newer the OS (Windows or Mac) the pickier their formatted drives seem to be about which machines they'll work with. I suspect that Microsoft and Apple are just trying to demonstrate their independence from and superiority over each other, but the users are the ones paying the price. It will take a few more days before I finish sorting files and transferring them, so until then, experimentation with the "problem child" drive is on hold. |
|
|
|
Post by garbulky on Mar 6, 2020 22:41:09 GMT -5
(reposting In case you didn't see it) Did you try the mounting technique? I have not tried any mounting methods yet. Why not? Because as of now, this drive is still installed inside the HP machine, and is working properly. Once I finish sorting the data on the drive, and then transferring it to a different external drive, and then reformatting the internal drive - then (and only then) will I remove it from the HP machine and try again with the cradle. Despite KeithL's skepticism about drive cradle compatibility, the SABRENT cradle that I have has successfully worked with EVERY SATA drive both smaller & larger in capacity, both older and newer, and both bought as raw drives or salvaged from computers / external USB housings that I've tried it with - EXCEPT for the drive under discussion. And I'm pretty well convinced that not the hardware but the drive format (done by Windows 10) is the culprit. The "most universal format" I've gotten on multiple drives that I've tried is from an old MacBook pro (using about a 3-generation old version of OS-X). I can format any drive in either FAT32 or EXFAT from that machine, and the drives will work with ANY version of Windows OR OS-X. The newer the OS (Windows or Mac) the pickier their formatted drives seem to be about which machines they'll work with. I suspect that Microsoft and Apple are just trying to demonstrate their independence from and superiority over each other, but the users are the ones paying the price. It will take a few more days before I finish sorting files and transferring them, so until then, experimentation with the "problem child" drive is on hold. I am talking about mounting it in the software of Windows 10. Not the hardware part. Watch this: Remember you probably DON'T want to format it when you are doing it, or you'll lose the music so read the screens when you follow those instructions and select do not format in the appropriate dialogue box when you mount it. |
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on Mar 11, 2020 15:32:56 GMT -5
OK - After DAYS of library sorting, I've transferred ALL the data off the internal drive. Yanking it from the Win-10 desktop, I put it in a USB cradle & tried to mount it from a Win-7 laptop. No can do - The drive wasn't even recognized.
I then hooked it up to my OLD MacBook Pro. The OS-X system declined to use the drive because of the NTFS format, but it DID see and mount the drive. So I reformatted the drive in EXFAT from the Mac. Now the drive can be seen over USB by the Win-10 machine, the Win-7 machine, the older OS-X laptop, and by my newest MacBook Pro with Catalina OS-X. I think that both Apple & MS are both becoming more proprietary about their formats...
Also, an audio amigo whom I ate lunch with today suggested a different music library arrangement. He suggests abandoning "albums," and using only "Artist / Tracknames" instead. That way, there are FAR fewer files & folders to manage, and the library is quicker and easier to index by whatever player you opt for. Although this works fine for pop music, he admits that it is sub-optimal for classical. He recommends keeping "albums" for classical music with a "Album Name + Composer / Conductor + Orchestra + Soloist(s) / Tracks" format. Wha'd'yall think?
The LDS software on the Auralic Aries may not be what I want after all. It's true that it "gets the computer out of the system," but it also crashes a lot, is highly temperamental about power interruptions, and its DSP is relatively primitive. If I go back to Roon, I'll probably get a NUC and the ROCK operating system. I'll keep the Auralic Vega DAC/Preamp since it seems to work well, and is already Roon-ready.
The Magnepan II models that my neighbor generously gifted me are showing their signs of age. The treble is reduced in volume, and the panels just don't do it for my room. I could compensate with equalization, but short of tweeter replacement, they may not be worth messing with. I need to do some research on YouTube to see how feasible a DIY rebuild is.
I'm waiting for a replacement fan (a MUCH quieter one) for the Ashly power amplifier. I took the top off for now & disconnected the fan completely - no heat buildup - no fan noise, and it still sounds really good!
Boom
UPDATE: The 6TB drive from inside the Win-10 machine (reformatted to EXFAT by the old Mac computer) now resides in the Sabrent "generic SATA cradle" and is working reliably with the Auralic Aries streamer. Now that the RAID is no longer the library source for the Aries, the system seems less crash-prone, and indexing of the library drive takes about half the time that it did before the change. Is this an artifact of the single drive vs. the RAID? I'm not sure, but the performance definitely seems to be improved with the single drive. This seems odd because the data transfer rate of the RAID is virtually identical to that of the cradle drive. Even so, I'm not looking the gift horse in the mouth.
So today, after a brief attempt to EQ some treble back into the MG-II speakers, I'm switching back to the Emotiva T2 towers & enjoying some music again. The excellent classical discs that I bought from the local Rotary Club "Trash and Treasure" sale for $1 each offer some GREAT classical that I've not yet heard. I'm particularly looking forward to hearing the Vasks cello works and the Dutilleaux / Lutoslawski cello concertos both played by Rostropovich.
Once I can get my Dahlquist DQ-LP1 active crossover fixed, I'll try to get the subs back on line. I can use the subs with their internal crossovers, but the minimum frequency that their plate amp allows is 60 Hz. and the Emotiva T2s go down to just below 40. This means that there's a fairly broad band of overlap, causing a peak in the bass response. If I get ambitious today, I'll whip out REW and see if I can use some parametric EQ to compensate. But I have no idea of when the crossover will be repaired (or even, at this point, where I can go to get such a repair). I don't have the equipment to signal trace the low-pass circuit, so other than just replacing everything (that I could do if I had to - it's a simple circuit), the thing will remain broken. I'll also need to change the single crossover cap for the high-pass sections to make the frequency work with the input impedance of my amps. Since the high-pass is a 6dB/octave passive circuit, the amplifier input impedance has a significant effect on the actual turnover frequency. And once the cap is set for a specific amplifier input impedance, use of any other amp will usually mess things up again. Might just be easier to do this in the digital domain...
|
|
