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Post by tank45 on May 17, 2020 10:14:42 GMT -5
Hi, I'm not sure what Gen a 2010 model is. The 4th from the left channel is not putting any sound to the speaker. The front panel light is still blue. I have swapped the rear channel wiring around to rule out a wiring problem. The connectors, unbalanced cable, speaker wire, and banana clips work fine on a different channel. I had this problem recently when I made some changes to my system and went through reworking my banana clips and whatnot and got it to work fine again. It leads me to believe I have a short. I just wonder why, if it is a short, it was working fine, then the next day it was not when nothing was moved/disturbed.
My question is this. I have basic electronics knowledge. What is the danger level opening up the case of an XPA-5 and powering it up to check for a short using a multimeter. Electrocution isn't on my to-do list for today. Would I need to actually have an audio signal active to effectively check it? I don't have a signal generator, only a basic multimeter - Fluke T5-600 Voltage/Current/Resistance. Conversely, with COVID-19, I shudder to think what the turnaround time will be if I ship it off to Emotiva. Obviously - my well-being comes first being that I am still quite able bodied and I don't have a heck of a lot of life insurance LOL.
Thanks,
Tank
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Post by Gary Cook on May 17, 2020 13:08:52 GMT -5
Short is unlikely as it would trip the XPA-5 into protection, orange not blue. More likely open circuit, if you are using an XLR (balanced) interconnect then try an RCA (unbalanced) interconnect (just on ch 4). Or vice versus. That will tell you if the open circuit is in the connector only.
Cheers Gary
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Post by tank45 on May 17, 2020 13:12:51 GMT -5
I'm using unbalanced cables. I don't have any balanced ones. I know the cables are OK because I moved them and tried them on a different channel. Is there a way to rectify an open channel if that is the problem?
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Post by Gary Cook on May 17, 2020 15:16:13 GMT -5
I'm using unbalanced cables. I don't have any balanced ones. I know the cables are OK because I moved them and tried them on a different channel. Is there a way to rectify an open channel if that is the problem? It’s not the cables that you would be checking, it’s the RCA connector and it’s internal wiring within the amp. By trying a balanced interconnect you would be eliminating any issues with just the RCA connector and it’s wiring. I have found that the most common problem with audio gear is cabling, dry solder joints, broken wires etc. Easy to fix once you have isolated them. If you don’t have access (beg, borrow, buy) a cheap XLR/balanced cable then you can use your multimeter to test for open circuit wiring from the RCA plug to the power amp board. No risk there as it is powered off, all you are ding is measuring the resistance. Cheers Gary
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Post by tank45 on May 17, 2020 19:40:09 GMT -5
Ah... very well. I actually see that I can order balanced XLR to unbalanced RCA adapter interconnects from Emotiva. If the RCA connection on the amp is bad, this will be an easier and cheaper fix than boxing it up and mailing it to Tennessee I would imagine.
Thank you sir,
Tank
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Post by vcautokid on May 17, 2020 20:12:35 GMT -5
Most likely is not a speaker connection. On rare occasions, the Gen 1 XPA amplifiers have rather fragile RCA connectors known to fail causing an open if any sideways torque is put upon them or any other more than "normal" handling occurs especially eager grip sleeve portion of the RCA Ferrule. Later model generations use the Tiff like connector which is far more robust for these instances. If possible and your amplifier is Gen1 or even possibly 2, could never remember when they went to Tiff like connectors. This is an easy fix. If you are outside the USA and your amplifier is out of warranty. Very important there, than any competent technician can upgrade all your channels to Tiff like RCA connectors. These are very solid connectors and do not bend or shift on the chassis back plane. It is more expensive to go this route but worth it. Image included is one type of Tiff like connector. Now remember I am not saying this is the cause of your no audio on channel 4, but this is an easy fix and not expensive and is a known rare issue on these generation of amplifiers.
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Post by tank45 on May 18, 2020 11:01:24 GMT -5
Thank You all for the responses. I did open the back panel up and the solder joints all look good; I saw nothing at all that looked wrong/broken/amiss. I am weighing sending it off for repair or doing a trade in for a Gen3 amp; my concern is if one failed and I get it repaired - another might fail. Not sure what I will do at this point... is the new (Gen3) better overall than the old (Gen1)? Reading everything I can find right now.
Tank
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs
"We made too many of the wrong mistakes." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 4,903
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Post by cawgijoe on May 18, 2020 11:17:54 GMT -5
Thank You all for the responses. I did open the back panel up and the solder joints all look good; I saw nothing at all that looked wrong/broken/amiss. I am weighing sending it off for repair or doing a trade in for a Gen3 amp; my concern is if one failed and I get it repaired - another might fail. Not sure what I will do at this point... is the new (Gen3) better overall than the old (Gen1)? Reading everything I can find right now. Tank I have a Gen3 XPA-5 which replaced a Gen1 XPA5. The Gen3 IMO is the better amp. I also like the fact that if there is an issue with one of the channels you can replace the "blade". I had an intermittent protect problem with my Gen1 and decided against sending it in for repair. I did send it back as a trade-in. I'm in the US. Right now I'm very happy with the Gen3.
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