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Post by doc1963 on Feb 20, 2021 7:13:20 GMT -5
Has anyone streamed any Disney+ content on their ATV4K today? If so are you getting Dolby Atmos? Mine seems to be only streaming 5.1pcm, and none of the content on the Disney+ that is clearly stating in the content info that it is DolbyAtmos is streaming, but I do get DolbyVision. I'm thinking the Disney+ app was recently updated and they've messed it up somehow on the ATV4K platform. Confirmed... Disney broke Atmos with the latest update on the ATV. Atmos still works fine in the Disney+ app on the Shield. |
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LCSeminole
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Res firma mitescere nescit.
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Post by LCSeminole on Feb 20, 2021 7:26:15 GMT -5
Has anyone streamed any Disney+ content on their ATV4K today? If so are you getting Dolby Atmos? Mine seems to be only streaming 5.1pcm, and none of the content on the Disney+ that is clearly stating in the content info that it is DolbyAtmos is streaming, but I do get DolbyVision. I'm thinking the Disney+ app was recently updated and they've messed it up somehow on the ATV4K platform. Confirmed... Disney broke Atmos with the latest update on the ATV. Atmos still works fine in the Disney+ app on the Shield. Thanks for confirming that Doc. I resorted to watching “WandaVision” on the FireTV Cube, as Atmos still works fine on its Disney+ app as well. |
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Post by jayce996 on Feb 20, 2021 8:38:00 GMT -5
so my XMC2 is broken... here is the video happening for whichever version 2.1 or 2.2: videoon the other side, the test was first failing: failure 1then another failure: failure 2and finally successful |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Feb 20, 2021 9:12:14 GMT -5
so my XMC2 is broken... here is the video happening for whichever version 2.1 or 2.2: videoon the other side, the test was first failing: failure 1then another failure: failure 2and finally successfulIt's directly related to time. Waiting long enough for the processor to be ready for the test. In your case, it may be slower due to the processor running so slowly. Any change in the processor since? |
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Post by doc1963 on Feb 20, 2021 10:38:01 GMT -5
so my XMC2 is broken... here is the video happening for whichever version 2.1 or 2.2: videoon the other side, the test was first failing: failure 1then another failure: failure 2and finally successfulJust curious... Why were you not using the front panel USB port to apply the firmware update...? As for your loopback test results, as ttocs said, the CEC Loopback test is time sensitive which is why it might fail on the first attempt. What’s more important is that you do get a “successful” result on a subsequent test. |
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on Feb 20, 2021 10:56:17 GMT -5
so my XMC2 is broken... here is the video happening for whichever version 2.1 or 2.2: videoon the other side, the test was first failing: failure 1then another failure: failure 2and finally successfulJust curious... Why were you not using the front panel USB port to apply the firmware update...? As for your loopback test results, as ttocs said, the CEC Loopback test is time sensitive which is why it might fail on the first attempt. What’s more important is that you do get a “successful” result on a subsequent test. I’ve always used the front USB input.....could this be part of the problem? Just checked and the manual does say you can use the back USB. |
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errtu
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Post by errtu on Feb 20, 2021 10:58:47 GMT -5
so my initial feeling after using few days without dirac kit yet, I know it has been said many times but I'm not sure if it has been fixed or not yet since there isn't a list of what is fixed and not. is there a firmware log here? 1 - playing music, every first second of the track is lost due to checking and locking sound format (*have not tested DSD yet) 2 - on the knob, couldn't select reference stereo. I did enable and it was selectable from the knob but after gone to low power standby, it disappeared. Have to use remote control to pick reference stereo. 3 - the display panels do indeed produce a subtle high frequency noise when I'm near to it changing volume, not sure if it will pollute the signal or not. (*reported before that someone has similar effect*) 4 - after on, have to relock the signal by changing source to get picture/sound for devices that aren't off.(*commonly reported) 5 - changing inputs on knob can be slow at times. overall, liking it much still. looking forward to receive my dirac kit. ad 4. In my case it helped to change output from HDMI1 to HDMI2 (at FW 2.1 at least) |
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Post by JKCashin on Feb 20, 2021 11:37:32 GMT -5
Has anyone streamed any Disney+ content on their ATV4K today? If so are you getting Dolby Atmos? Mine seems to be only streaming 5.1pcm, and none of the content on the Disney+ that is clearly stating in the content info that it is DolbyAtmos is streaming, but I do get DolbyVision. I'm thinking the Disney+ app was recently updated and they've messed it up somehow on the ATV4K platform. Confirmed... Disney broke Atmos with the latest update on the ATV. Atmos still works fine in the Disney+ app on the Shield. Wait... what Disney+ app on Shield? I have the latest shield and there's no Disney+ app... do you have an older version? |
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Post by doc1963 on Feb 20, 2021 11:38:52 GMT -5
Just curious... Why were you not using the front panel USB port to apply the firmware update...? As for your loopback test results, as ttocs said, the CEC Loopback test is time sensitive which is why it might fail on the first attempt. What’s more important is that you do get a “successful” result on a subsequent test. I’ve always used the front USB input.....could this be part of the problem? Just checked and the manual does say you can use the back USB. Not certain that it would yield a different result if it shares the same path to the controller, but I’m more curious if he tried the front port which I think most of us would use. |
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Post by doc1963 on Feb 20, 2021 11:44:35 GMT -5
Confirmed... Disney broke Atmos with the latest update on the ATV. Atmos still works fine in the Disney+ app on the Shield. Wait... what Disney+ app on Shield? I have the latest shield and there's no Disney+ app... do you have an older version? Nope... I have the 2019 Shield Pro and there’s definitely a Disney+ app... 😊 Attachment Deleted |
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Post by Goodfella on Feb 20, 2021 12:03:12 GMT -5
Confirmed... Disney broke Atmos with the latest update on the ATV. Atmos still works fine in the Disney+ app on the Shield. Thanks for confirming that Doc. I resorted to watching “WandaVision” on the FireTV Cube, as Atmos still works fine on its Disney+ app as well. I just noticed no Atmos on Disney on ATV as well. That stinks that its broke. Noticing a lot more popping with ver2.2 vs 2.1. It snaps and pops which it use to just snap occasionally when switching from Atmos to DTS. Now it’s pretty much all the time. Very disappointing. |
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on Feb 20, 2021 13:02:50 GMT -5
Thanks for confirming that Doc. I resorted to watching “WandaVision” on the FireTV Cube, as Atmos still works fine on its Disney+ app as well. I just noticed no Atmos on Disney on ATV as well. That stinks that its broke. Noticing a lot more popping with ver2.2 vs 2.1. It snaps and pops which it use to just snap occasionally when switching from Atmos to DTS. Now it’s pretty much all the time. Very disappointing. I don’t currently have Atmos and have not noticed any significant popping sounds.....narrowed down? |
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Post by hsamwel on Feb 20, 2021 15:45:26 GMT -5
After using 2.2 for about a day. Still buggy. Some things improved, some made worst. Far from perfect. I did not remeasure but I did re upload Dirac file and it sounds very good as before. Took some Rew measurements and frequency response was very similar. Sound levels were a tad off as before. I cut 1db from front three speakers as before. Scrolling through input and menu is still slow, about the same, give or take as before. At this point, I have no faith in Emotiva fixing the laggy menu and input scrolling. Probably a hardware issue. It is what it is. To sum it up, it's a good budget processor with bugs, but sounds awesome. I’m not sure what is causing the slow issue that some are reporting. I don’t have this and have been trying to replicate. Some are saying VRO may be part of the issue, but I always use VRO and menu and input scrolling are quick. I don’t get it. Please do a video of your fast menu’s during especially input scrolling.. Then post here! IMO the speed ”difference” is not there just that we all have different preferences and feelings of how the processor should behave. |
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Post by hsamwel on Feb 20, 2021 16:36:30 GMT -5
Unfortunately the AppleTV is well known for being a nuisance when it comes to unwanted CEC "signals". (So much so that at least one company sells an HDMI adapter that physically disconnects the CEC control line - specifically intended as "an AppleTV fix".)
The real issue with CEC is that all of your HDMI-CEC devices share a physical connection between them. Therefore, we can pretty much disable whether our processor responds to CEC commands, and whether it sends them... But we cannot block the AppleTV from sending CEC commands to other devices and vice versa... (The only 100% fix for that is to neuter it by physically cutting that line in its HDMI cable...)
So I installed ver2.2 and disabled input change and that fixed my Apple 4k switching issue. I couldn’t get the bass increase under control so I ran Dirac again. Seems to be ok now. Fingers crossed. Couldn’t you neuter it digitally by stopping any CEC signals passing through. Maybe by adding a ”CEC All Off” feature? |
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on Feb 20, 2021 16:53:59 GMT -5
I’m not sure what is causing the slow issue that some are reporting. I don’t have this and have been trying to replicate. Some are saying VRO may be part of the issue, but I always use VRO and menu and input scrolling are quick. I don’t get it. Please do a video of your fast menu’s during especially input scrolling.. Then post here! IMO the speed ”difference” is not there just that we all have different preferences and feelings of how the processor should behave. I just timed it using the Emotiva remote and the “Input” up button on the remote. If there is nothing connected to an input, it takes about 2 seconds to display the input. If there is something connected, say Directv, it takes approximately 5 to 6 seconds to lock on and display a pic. Using HDMI of course. Maybe this is slow, I don’t know. It’s about the same with the direct push buttons. If this is slow or slower than it used to be, I apologize for questioning it. Thoughts? |
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Post by Goodfella on Feb 20, 2021 17:01:05 GMT -5
Unfortunately the AppleTV is well known for being a nuisance when it comes to unwanted CEC "signals". (So much so that at least one company sells an HDMI adapter that physically disconnects the CEC control line - specifically intended as "an AppleTV fix".)
The real issue with CEC is that all of your HDMI-CEC devices share a physical connection between them. Therefore, we can pretty much disable whether our processor responds to CEC commands, and whether it sends them... But we cannot block the AppleTV from sending CEC commands to other devices and vice versa... (The only 100% fix for that is to neuter it by physically cutting that line in its HDMI cable...)
Couldn’t you neuter it digitally by stopping any CEC signals passing through. Maybe by adding a ”CEC All Off” feature? Tried turning off CEC, still popping and snapping. Tried hard reboot, still popping and snapping. |
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Post by hsamwel on Feb 20, 2021 17:31:59 GMT -5
Is there anyone that know what DTS direct option actually do?
I could guess that ENABLED only does 7.1 Neural:X upmixing and DISABLED the full 7.1.4 upmixing?
Basically fooling Neural:X into thinking you have a lesser system with ENABLED.
If yes, then how useful is this? DTS ES and DD EX and such formats only want surround to
surround back upmixing. Neural:X do stuff into the front stage as well I believe?
But maybe some want it not to upmix to the height speakers..
DTS Dialog Control if the same as provided by DTS only works if DTS:X is in full object format
with the dialog placed in its own object. Or is this something else?
Btw cycling through the menus in 2.2 is the slowest it has been since before 1.10 atleast.
Whatever version it was that added the hugh speed increase.
No real issues though. Everything went fine with the update and no bugs found.
The sound seems smoother, less prone to siblance with female voices on some recordings.
Also smoother overall..
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Post by hsamwel on Feb 20, 2021 17:55:53 GMT -5
Please do a video of your fast menu’s during especially input scrolling.. Then post here! IMO the speed ”difference” is not there just that we all have different preferences and feelings of how the processor should behave. I just timed it using the Emotiva remote and the “Input” up button on the remote. If there is nothing connected to an input, it takes about 2 seconds to display the input. If there is something connected, say Directv, it takes approximately 5 to 6 seconds to lock on and display a pic. Using HDMI of course. Maybe this is slow, I don’t know. It’s about the same with the direct push buttons. If this is slow or slower than it used to be, I apologize for questioning it. Thoughts? Nothing wrong with the direct remote input buttons or cycling buttons up and down. They certainly go ”fast enough” IMO. What I’m taking about is the settings. Cycling through options there is NOT fast. You can actually see the refresh drawing the screen after each remote press. Emotiva should ditch the live update and overlay graphics in the settings IMO. With the simple text based setup they have it would be like running MSDOS on a new Core i9 processor PC. Insanely fast.. Just ditching the overlay would help enormously. To make this smooth they would have needed to have add a GPU handling the overlay. Exactly why would you need to see the video in the background while editing your settings? Live update is only warranted in some settings dealing with sound. Certainly not in the input settings menu anyway. Sorry for the rant, not directed to you specifically.  |
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on Feb 20, 2021 19:25:46 GMT -5
I just timed it using the Emotiva remote and the “Input” up button on the remote. If there is nothing connected to an input, it takes about 2 seconds to display the input. If there is something connected, say Directv, it takes approximately 5 to 6 seconds to lock on and display a pic. Using HDMI of course. Maybe this is slow, I don’t know. It’s about the same with the direct push buttons. If this is slow or slower than it used to be, I apologize for questioning it. Thoughts? Nothing wrong with the direct remote input buttons or cycling buttons up and down. They certainly go ”fast enough” IMO. What I’m taking about is the settings. Cycling through options there is NOT fast. You can actually see the refresh drawing the screen after each remote press. Emotiva should ditch the live update and overlay graphics in the settings IMO. With the simple text based setup they have it would be like running MSDOS on a new Core i9 processor PC. Insanely fast.. Just ditching the overlay would help enormously. To make this smooth they would have needed to have add a GPU handling the overlay. Exactly why would you need to see the video in the background while editing your settings? Live update is only warranted in some settings dealing with sound. Certainly not in the input settings menu anyway. Sorry for the rant, not directed to you specifically. You know what, I’ve never even thought about it....I’ll check it out when I’m able to play with the tv. Family watching now. |
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Post by Stephen Park on Feb 20, 2021 22:54:50 GMT -5
After upgrade 2.2, there is significant much delay both sound and menu.
When watching HDMI 1 and I pause it, and want move HDMI 2, remote is not responding like 3 to 5 seconds, after source is changed, again processor is determining what kind of sound it is, will take also 2 or 3 seconds. It is only occur for HDMI audio source, change analog to analog does not affect. 2.1 was not like this slow.
And today I run latest Dirac, and all process goes through without problem but very last, when I export filter to slot, save to slot is success(so Dirac show the message that filter is successfully stored), and finally trying to show stored filters on RMC-1, device time out. RMC-1 not responding. I have to disable dirac and enable again, then Dirac can connect RMC-1 again from the start. So I can see there is filter exist which I finally save to slot, date and time is latest one but not sure it is really stored. Maybe it is error not from RMC-1 but new Dirac software, I don’t know.
2.2 is quite stable and solid but getting slow menu when source is paused, and pops and clicks with Loudness control, is new bug, I presume.
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Displays: Sony VPL-VW570ES (a.k.a. 695ES) + SeymourAV CenterStageXD 137", Sony KLD-50W829B. Sources: Panasonic DP-UB9000, HTPC (i9, RTX 2080 Super), Nvidia Shield Pro, Auralic Aries G2 (Roon). Pre/pro: RMC-1L Amps: Emotiva XPA-DR3 3ch + Cambridge Audio Azur 851W. Speakers: 5.0 Sonus Faber Homage Tradition Serafino/Vox/Guarneri. Sub: SVS SB-4000.
