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Post by yellowbalt on Nov 25, 2021 15:05:47 GMT -5
I would suggest you reboot both the Apple TV as well as the XMC-2, this might clear things up. Put the XMC-2 into standby wait a short while then back on. I would consider rebooting the ATV 4K first though while the XMC-2 is still on. Over time you will probably find this becomes necessary due to various glitches and other hangups. The XMC-2 is a computer. Hope this helps. Found the issue. The TV should always be on. Whenever i listen to just music, i usually turn off the tv and works okay with Fire Stick 4K listening to Spotify but ATV4K wants the TV to be always "ON" or it will always pause. |
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs 
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,033
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Post by cawgijoe on Nov 25, 2021 17:28:00 GMT -5
I would suggest you reboot both the Apple TV as well as the XMC-2, this might clear things up. Put the XMC-2 into standby wait a short while then back on. I would consider rebooting the ATV 4K first though while the XMC-2 is still on. Over time you will probably find this becomes necessary due to various glitches and other hangups. The XMC-2 is a computer. Hope this helps. Found the issue. The TV should always be on. Whenever i listen to just music, i usually turn off the tv and works okay with Fire Stick 4K listening to Spotify but ATV4K wants the TV to be always "ON" or it will always pause. I didn’t think about that because my tv is on when I’m playing Apple Music through the ATV. It’s nice to see the album cover, lyrics, etc. |
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Post by vinylfinal on Nov 26, 2021 10:02:32 GMT -5
My RMC 1L has the latest FW and I use zone 2 but not very frequently. Went to use it today and it has a lot of static on zone 2 regardless of the source (turntable, CD player-optical, Oppo BR player -HDMI, cable box). I rebooted and fiddled with settings and inputs (main or component) and nothing seems to affect it. I do recall when I first got the unit earlier this year that Zone 2 worked ok before I upgraded the FW. Any suggestions would be helpful. This has been reported before, so I’m pretty sure it’s a real problem that has developed in a recent FW (2.2 or 2.3?) I however have been unable to duplicate it. I’ll give it another shot today and see what I come up with. Ok, I tested the same album via three different formats into Zone 2. Turntable/Grado Sonata > XPS-1 > RMC-1 Analog 1 in > Zone 2 Out > Nuvo Zone Amp > 3 different pairs of speakers Oppo CD > RMC-1 HDMI 4 in > Zone 2 Out > Nuvo Zone Amp > 3 different pairs of speakers Apple Music > Mac mini > RMC-1 USB in > Zone 2 Out > Nuvo Zone Amp > 3 different pairs of speakers The HDMI input requires "Follow Main", the others I tried both Follow Main and the Zone 2 discrete input selection I do not hear anything unusual with any of the sources or speakers. I tried several things: Hitting pause while playing the CD to see if there was noise behind the music, turning it up loud and walking around listing to various speakers from different location (all outdoors). I'll keep trying various things over the weekend. Just to clarify, you used the term 'static', which is also what someone else called it. To me * 'static' implies a somewhat random but frequent noise, possibly a pop or crackle that may be present with or without a signal (often associated with AM radio) * 'noise' means a constant sound, typically a 'hiss' that is in the background all the time with or without signal, but may get louder with volume (or not). White and Pink noise are good examples of a defined combination of all audible frequencies. * 'distortion' (while technically any change to the signal) is an unpleasant 'grunge' that accompanies the signal and may get worse with volume (or not). * 'clipping' similar to distortion, but normally only at louder levels, or when an input section is overdriven. Which one of these should I listen for, or something else?Also, what is your Zone 2 output driving? Can you drive that with another source to eliminate it as the culprit? (I can also drive my Zone amp with an AirPort express, it sounds very similar) When music is playing through zone two, the noise is 'static' as you have defined it. I use two channels from a GFA 7000 for my zone 2. The other channels drive rears and center speakers. I evaluated using my Ipod as a source direct to the amp with no issues (no static). Next, I reconnected the zone 2 to the amp but then made sure there were no sources powered on. The static is present but it comes out in bursts. When there is a source powered on and playing through zone 2 the static is much more continuous and correlated with the music. Using the CD player, I paused on a track and the static would stop. As soon as I hit play, the static returned with the music. Same with the OPPO player. Question: Is it worth trying to reload the lastest FW again? Is that advisable? |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Nov 26, 2021 11:01:14 GMT -5
When music is playing through zone two, the noise is 'static' as you have defined it. I use two channels from a GFA 7000 for my zone 2. The other channels drive rears and center speakers. I evaluated using my Ipod as a source direct to the amp with no issues (no static). Next, I reconnected the zone 2 to the amp but then made sure there were no sources powered on. The static is present but it comes out in bursts. When there is a source powered on and playing through zone 2 the static is much more continuous and correlated with the music. Using the CD player, I paused on a track and the static would stop. As soon as I hit play, the static returned with the music. Same with the OPPO player. Question: Is it worth trying to reload the lastest FW again? Is that advisable? I probably wouldn’t reload the firmware and just wait for the next release. I might try however backing up your settings and resetting the RMC back to Factory defaults. After that you have choices, if it’s not too difficult, manually setup just enough to be able to test Z2 with a known problematic source. If that is still bad I’d open a ticket with Emotiva (though I have now reported this), opening a ticket will give them more incentive to look into it, and maybe reach out to see what in your system might be causing it. If however Z2 now is now good in this stripped down configuration, reload your backup settings and test again. That should give you some good info on what to do next. |
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Post by yellowbalt on Nov 26, 2021 12:08:49 GMT -5
Ok, I tested the same album via three different formats into Zone 2. Turntable/Grado Sonata > XPS-1 > RMC-1 Analog 1 in > Zone 2 Out > Nuvo Zone Amp > 3 different pairs of speakers Oppo CD > RMC-1 HDMI 4 in > Zone 2 Out > Nuvo Zone Amp > 3 different pairs of speakers Apple Music > Mac mini > RMC-1 USB in > Zone 2 Out > Nuvo Zone Amp > 3 different pairs of speakers The HDMI input requires "Follow Main", the others I tried both Follow Main and the Zone 2 discrete input selection I do not hear anything unusual with any of the sources or speakers. I tried several things: Hitting pause while playing the CD to see if there was noise behind the music, turning it up loud and walking around listing to various speakers from different location (all outdoors). I'll keep trying various things over the weekend. Just to clarify, you used the term 'static', which is also what someone else called it. To me * 'static' implies a somewhat random but frequent noise, possibly a pop or crackle that may be present with or without a signal (often associated with AM radio) * 'noise' means a constant sound, typically a 'hiss' that is in the background all the time with or without signal, but may get louder with volume (or not). White and Pink noise are good examples of a defined combination of all audible frequencies. * 'distortion' (while technically any change to the signal) is an unpleasant 'grunge' that accompanies the signal and may get worse with volume (or not). * 'clipping' similar to distortion, but normally only at louder levels, or when an input section is overdriven. Which one of these should I listen for, or something else?Also, what is your Zone 2 output driving? Can you drive that with another source to eliminate it as the culprit? (I can also drive my Zone amp with an AirPort express, it sounds very similar) When music is playing through zone two, the noise is 'static' as you have defined it. I use two channels from a GFA 7000 for my zone 2. The other channels drive rears and center speakers. I evaluated using my Ipod as a source direct to the amp with no issues (no static). Next, I reconnected the zone 2 to the amp but then made sure there were no sources powered on. The static is present but it comes out in bursts. When there is a source powered on and playing through zone 2 the static is much more continuous and correlated with the music. Using the CD player, I paused on a track and the static would stop. As soon as I hit play, the static returned with the music. Same with the OPPO player. Question: Is it worth trying to reload the lastest FW again? Is that advisable? Yes fair enough. I usually just close my eyes while sitting in the couch if not working. Otherwise, i'm always on the laptop. |
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Sayer
Sensei
Chasing better sound.
Posts: 145
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Post by Sayer on Nov 26, 2021 21:56:29 GMT -5
I'm trying to wrap my head around the bass management issue and how best to compensate for it until the next firmware release. I tried Dirac today and the results were not great, a step down in sound quality compared to the manual setup I did with the sound meter and measuring tape, so Dirac is off for now. So far I have reduced the subwoofer level by 7db. The front speakers (T2+) are set to small, crossover set to 40hz. Even with the sub turned down it still seems that bass is too loud. Could the bass in the mains (T2+) be elevated by the bass management issue, or is it only with the sub? Try a cold boot (back power switch off, wait 60 seconds, back power switch on, wait for boot sequence, then front power switch on from standby. Another possibility is an interaction with installing a Dirac filter and the switching back to User EQ may in some scenario cause elevated bass in small speakers. @ttoc has researched this extensively. In some scenarios it might take even more sub trim, but it’s best to ensure that settings are stable with cold reboots. I hope this is some help. emotivalounge.proboards.com/thread/58985/g3p-elevated-bm-lfe-issue?page=10As an aside, I have had multiple brands of AVRs present anomalies with Dirac filters being installed, etc., and so as a result I always cold boot my AVR after installing a Dirac Filter, if I install a second Dirac filter in another slot I always cold boot between changes, and I never rush the cold boot to ensure that power has completely drained. I never overwrite a Dirac filter, instead opting to factory restore setting and install a new Dirac filter, and I always cold boot after changing presets. Maybe I’m overly cautious… Thank you for the suggestions and info. I will try a cold boot. It's a bit involved since it requires moving some furniture, rolling the large rug out of the way, and then pulling out the cabinet to access the back of the XMC-2. Not something I want to do on a regular basis.  |
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Post by benjam on Nov 27, 2021 8:58:53 GMT -5
Hi Emotivas and Emotivos :-)
Will we get another Christmas present from Emotiva this year in the form of a new firmware update? DTS-X Pro?
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Post by doc1963 on Nov 27, 2021 9:32:56 GMT -5
Hi Emotivas and Emotivos :-) Will we get another Christmas present from Emotiva this year in the form of a new firmware update? DTS-X Pro? Since Emotiva continues to remain quiet on this subject, let’s consult the Magic 8 Ball… When asked exactly as quoted, the response was “ Concentrate and ask again”… So when broken into two questions and asked will we receive a firmware update by Christmas, the response was “ Very doubtful”. Then, when asked whether the next update will contain final code for DTS:X Pro, the response was “ Outlook good”. Let’s see how close that is to being accurate…  |
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Post by zdoggz on Nov 27, 2021 10:36:54 GMT -5
And here my 8 ball had the next firmware being available before Christmas to be likely but it including dtsx pro to be very doubtful. 😬
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ttocs
Global Moderator 
I always have a wonderful time, wherever I am, whomever I'm with. (Elwood P Dowd)
Posts: 8,154
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Post by ttocs on Nov 27, 2021 11:00:14 GMT -5
And here my 8 ball had the next firmware being available before Christmas to be likely but it including dtsx pro to be very doubtful. 😬 This is the most likely scenario. Keith talking about DTS-X Pro a couple pages ago said ".. and it will be at least a few more months..." |
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Post by doc1963 on Nov 27, 2021 11:22:13 GMT -5
And here my 8 ball had the next firmware being available before Christmas to be likely but it including dtsx pro to be very doubtful. 😬 My 8 Ball has been known to be wrong before, but I’m holding out hope… 😉 |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Nov 27, 2021 11:53:53 GMT -5
And here my 8 ball had the next firmware being available before Christmas to be likely but it including dtsx pro to be very doubtful. 😬 My 8 Ball has been known to be wrong before, but I’m holding out hope… 😉 … but didn’t you just upgrade to the Nimbus 2022 8-Ball-Deluxe? I’m going with you! |
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Post by geebo on Nov 27, 2021 12:09:38 GMT -5
So whose 8 ball to get behind?
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Post by jbrunwa on Nov 27, 2021 12:44:58 GMT -5
Thank you for the suggestions and info. I will try a cold boot. It's a bit involved since it requires moving some furniture, rolling the large rug out of the way, and then pulling out the cabinet to access the back of the XMC-2. Not something I want to do on a regular basis. Sorry, I didn’t consider the physical access to the power button. Booting from Low Power Standby could be an alternative, that will completely reload the operating system and temporary memory. In theory this is equivalent to a cold boot. I think that externally shutting the power off to the AVR for a minute should also work. Some users can run without rebooting for months at a time with no issues, and that may be the case after you have settled on all the parameter settings and the configuration is stable. |
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Post by ElectricKoolAid on Nov 29, 2021 9:29:00 GMT -5
And here my 8 ball had the next firmware being available before Christmas to be likely but it including dtsx pro to be very doubtful. 😬 This seems most likely to me as well...just hoping that the new firmware does come before Christmas... |
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ttocs
Global Moderator
I always have a wonderful time, wherever I am, whomever I'm with. (Elwood P Dowd)
Posts: 8,154
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Post by ttocs on Nov 29, 2021 11:55:43 GMT -5
I've been having some issues lately with my internet which I thought was the cable modem because I've been having to reboot it so often. But it turns out that it was the incoming coax and connection box on the house that were water damaged. The coax had been repaired a few months ago, but only at each end. The tech last night said that the water travels within the coax causing much more damage than can be seen.
So now the audio stream on TiVo tv shows comes in instantly when changing channels or pausing/un-pausing or skipping around, etc. Even before the picture has stabilized the audio is running, even when going from 2.0 to 5.1 content. It's never been this good before without using PCM Audio.
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Sayer
Sensei
Chasing better sound.
Posts: 145
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Post by Sayer on Nov 29, 2021 14:17:49 GMT -5
Sorry, I didn’t consider the physical access to the power button. Booting from Low Power Standby could be an alternative, that will completely reload the operating system and temporary memory. In theory this is equivalent to a cold boot. I think that externally shutting the power off to the AVR for a minute should also work. Some users can run without rebooting for months at a time with no issues, and that may be the case after you have settled on all the parameter settings and the configuration is stable. Before seeing your post above, I tried changing Standby mode to Video On, which got me into trouble. After a while the XMC-2 became somewhat unresponsive, and it kept emitting loud spikey popping sounds through the speakers, which was a bit unnerving. Eventually, it wouldn't go into standby mode anymore, I had to get to the back and cycle the power. Changed it back to Low Power Standby and plan to leave it there for now. Booting from Low Power Standby mode does seem to fix things when problems occur. I've given up on Dirac for now, after several tries the sound always seems less lively, less dynamic, speaker levels are not correct. The results don't seem to be consistent from one try to the next. I'm happy with the sound without Dirac. When the new firmware is released (and confirmed by others) I will try it again. For now I've settled on a -8.5 for the sub level to compensate for the bass management issue, which still has the level slightly elevated, but I do like bass. Having ongoing issues with needing to switch inputs back and forth to get the sound to work. The input that struggles the most is the Xfinity STB. I have turned off HDMI-CEC in its settings, but that didn't seem to make a difference. Also, the ARC can be problematic. We do most of our streaming with the Roku TV and use ARC to get the sound to the XMC-2. It takes a few tries to get sound from the ARC, and if the streaming is paused for a while the sound does not pick up when you hit play. When things are working the sound is fantastic. My wife even notices the sound improvements. Hopefully a new firmware will be available to smooth things out in the near future. |
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Post by jbrunwa on Nov 29, 2021 15:13:25 GMT -5
Sorry, I didn’t consider the physical access to the power button. Booting from Low Power Standby could be an alternative, that will completely reload the operating system and temporary memory. In theory this is equivalent to a cold boot. I think that externally shutting the power off to the AVR for a minute should also work. Some users can run without rebooting for months at a time with no issues, and that may be the case after you have settled on all the parameter settings and the configuration is stable. Before seeing your post above, I tried changing Standby mode to Video On, which got me into trouble. After a while the XMC-2 became somewhat unresponsive, and it kept emitting loud spikey popping sounds through the speakers, which was a bit unnerving. Eventually, it wouldn't go into standby mode anymore, I had to get to the back and cycle the power. Changed it back to Low Power Standby and plan to leave it there for now. Booting from Low Power Standby mode does seem to fix things when problems occur. I've given up on Dirac for now, after several tries the sound always seems less lively, less dynamic, speaker levels are not correct. The results don't seem to be consistent from one try to the next. I'm happy with the sound without Dirac. When the new firmware is released (and confirmed by others) I will try it again. For now I've settled on a -8.5 for the sub level to compensate for the bass management issue, which still has the level slightly elevated, but I do like bass. Having ongoing issues with needing to switch inputs back and forth to get the sound to work. The input that struggles the most is the Xfinity STB. I have turned off HDMI-CEC in its settings, but that didn't seem to make a difference. Also, the ARC can be problematic. We do most of our streaming with the Roku TV and use ARC to get the sound to the XMC-2. It takes a few tries to get sound from the ARC, and if the streaming is paused for a while the sound does not pick up when you hit play. When things are working the sound is fantastic. My wife even notices the sound improvements. Hopefully a new firmware will be available to smooth things out in the near future. I agree, it sounds great with the trim adjusted. I havent used ARC, but with HDMI-CEC I suspect some equipment seems to send or use CEC even when I turn it off on each component that has an option, and some HDMI components seem to be sensitive about what gets turned on first. I think the manufacturers designed it to make setup easy for mass market sound bar users, and it seems to be the most common complaint in component HT. Some users have no problems, so I suspect it is component/configuration/compatibility that differs, and figuring out what works in HT. I’d be surprised though if we don’t see continuing improvements. If you try Dirac again, with decent speakers I find the default full frequency correction in Dirac is too much and does seem suck the life out of the sound. A lot of users drop the correction window curtain down to only correct low frequencies up to about 400-500 Hz depending on the room. This corrects for the room but still lets the speakers sound the way the speaker manufacturer intended IMO. I’m sure there is more info in the Dirac thread. |
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Post by donh50 on Nov 29, 2021 16:49:11 GMT -5
I have a vague memory of being able to perform a cold boot of my XMC-1 by holding the front-panel power button down for 10 seconds or something like that. Does that work for the new toys? Saves a lot of grief for those of us with installations that are very user-hostile to rear-panel access.
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Post by ElectricKoolAid on Nov 29, 2021 17:04:10 GMT -5
I have a vague memory of being able to perform a cold boot of my XMC-1 by holding the front-panel power button down for 10 seconds or something like that. Does that work for the new toys? Saves a lot of grief for those of us with installations that are very user-hostile to rear-panel access. Yes, that's how I normally do a hard reboot of my XMC-2 if something goes wrong. |
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