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Post by jbrunwa on Feb 17, 2022 18:26:21 GMT -5
What's odd is nothing changed on the hardware, but with 2.5 I'm doing fairly frequent rebooting. Sometimes it's daily. The HDMI connections are very simple: output to a single Panasonic plasma into the ARC HDMI port on that. One input is the AppleTV4k, the current version. The other input is my DirecTV DVR. I've tried changing the HDMI ports to 1.4, and that didn't make a difference. I've changed CEC settings. No difference. I'm thinking of getting a Sony A90J just to make sure it's not due to the relatively ancient TV - it's their 2012 model; I believe a VT50. Iโm curious Is there a particular symptom that you are seeing that requires a reboot, what standby mode do you use, etc? |
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Post by msimanyi on Feb 17, 2022 22:09:59 GMT -5
I don't recall the term for the standby mode, but it's the fast startup. The small Emotiva power button in the middle of the front panel is orange.
I use a Harmony Elite remote. I select Watch TV or Watch AppleTV, and the TV powers up... and nothing else happens. Black screen, then the TV displays a message that there's no signal.
On the RMC-1 the right display shows nothing, while the left display shows the HDMI settings. If I recall correctly, they frequently show a different HDMI source for audio than for video. AppleTV is HDMI 5, while DirecTV is HDMI 1. When I watch DirecTV, I believe the left display shows Audio and Video both are HDMI 1. Usually when I see the hang, they're on different inputs.
Off the top of my head (I'm still at work) I think my right display usually shows the volume setting. Nothing is displayed when the startup fails.
Edited to add: The left display has three columns, and when the lockup occurs only the leftmost column displays. That's how I know the audio and video inputs. The other two columns don't display at all.
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Post by leonski on Feb 19, 2022 22:16:21 GMT -5
I had logitech issues and messed with it until i got it. You might find the SEQUENCE of startup to be part of or the entire fault.......that sort of thing...
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LCSeminole
Global Moderator 
Res firma mitescere nescit.
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Post by LCSeminole on Feb 21, 2022 20:21:46 GMT -5
I've added this video to the first post of this thread.
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Post by msimanyi on Feb 22, 2022 11:58:21 GMT -5
I had logitech issues and messed with it until i got it. You might find the SEQUENCE of startup to be part of or the entire fault.......that sort of thing... Unfortunately that hasnโt been successful for me. Since most items stay powered on, Iโm dealing with a simple set of options: turn on the Emotiva first, or turn on the tv first. Both have resulted in these hangs - more prevalent on 2.5 than 2.4 - even with CEC disabled on the Emotiva and the special HDMI adapters to block the CEC pins on the TV, AppleTV and DirecTV boxes. |
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs 
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
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Post by cawgijoe on Feb 22, 2022 12:07:44 GMT -5
I had logitech issues and messed with it until i got it. You might find the SEQUENCE of startup to be part of or the entire fault.......that sort of thing... Unfortunately that hasnโt been successful for me. Since most items stay powered on, Iโm dealing with a simple set of options: turn on the Emotiva first, or turn on the tv first. Both have resulted in these hangs - more prevalent on 2.5 than 2.4 - even with CEC disabled on the Emotiva and the special HDMI adapters to block the CEC pins on the TV, AppleTV and DirecTV boxes. I use a Harmony One and find that many times when I power up, the TV will come on but the XMC-2 will not go the "full power - amp in use"....I usually have to hit the 'help" button on the Harmony and then it works fine. Firmware version has no effect for me and I'm using and have always used VOS. I don't use CEC or ARC. Edit: I've also had this power on hiccup with a separate Vizio TV and a Yamaha soundbar....most of the time they will power up and I get sound when using "Watch TV", but every once in awhile either the TV or soundbar will fail and I have to hit help....this is with a Harmony 665. |
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Post by leonski on Feb 22, 2022 20:59:40 GMT -5
Unfortunately that hasnโt been successful for me. Since most items stay powered on, Iโm dealing with a simple set of options: turn on the Emotiva first, or turn on the tv first. Both have resulted in these hangs - more prevalent on 2.5 than 2.4 - even with CEC disabled on the Emotiva and the special HDMI adapters to block the CEC pins on the TV, AppleTV and DirecTV boxes. I use a Harmony One and find that many times when I power up, the TV will come on but the XMC-2 will not go the "full power - amp in use"....I usually have to hit the 'help" button on the Harmony and then it works fine. Firmware version has no effect for me and I'm using and have always used VOS. I don't use CEC or ARC. Edit: I've also had this power on hiccup with a separate Vizio TV and a Yamaha soundbar....most of the time they will power up and I get sound when using "Watch TV", but every once in awhile either the TV or soundbar will fail and I have to hit help....this is with a Harmony 665. The 665 is one of the 'budget' remotes, right? Grey and 'peanut' shaped? Mine has always worked fine.......but I did have to adjust it a few times to get it perfect..... Even the WIFE can start up multiple elements now without problem. A testiment to ease of use...... |
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Post by leonski on Feb 22, 2022 23:30:42 GMT -5
I just looked and the 665 is no longer available for 70$ on the Logitech site. they are 'pushing' everyone up the line.
But if you have some REALLY strange amounts of money? Drop over to Amazon for a real insult. I saw 'em for up to OVER 2x list.
I'm guessing NOS remotes for some major money. you MIGHT still find one at a best, which I'll look at next.
Other than that you are into it for features and functionality you MAY not want....or need.
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cawgijoe
Emo VIPs
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it." - Yogi Berra
Posts: 5,030
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Post by cawgijoe on Feb 23, 2022 8:29:48 GMT -5
I just looked and the 665 is no longer available for 70$ on the Logitech site. they are 'pushing' everyone up the line. But if you have some REALLY strange amounts of money? Drop over to Amazon for a real insult. I saw 'em for up to OVER 2x list. I'm guessing NOS remotes for some major money. you MIGHT still find one at a best, which I'll look at next. Other than that you are into it for features and functionality you MAY not want....or need. I've decided to continue to use my Harmony's until they either die or Logitech no longer supports them and not invest in any new or used remote from the company. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Feb 28, 2022 9:13:50 GMT -5
I don't recall the term for the standby mode, but it's the fast startup. The small Emotiva power button in the middle of the front panel is orange. I use a Harmony Elite remote. I select Watch TV or Watch AppleTV, and the TV powers up... and nothing else happens. Black screen, then the TV displays a message that there's no signal. On the RMC-1 the right display shows nothing, while the left display shows the HDMI settings. If I recall correctly, they frequently show a different HDMI source for audio than for video. AppleTV is HDMI 5, while DirecTV is HDMI 1. When I watch DirecTV, I believe the left display shows Audio and Video both are HDMI 1. Usually when I see the hang, they're on different inputs. Off the top of my head (I'm still at work) I think my right display usually shows the volume setting. Nothing is displayed when the startup fails. Edited to add: The left display has three columns, and when the lockup occurs only the leftmost column displays. That's how I know the audio and video inputs. The other two columns don't display at all. Iโll just mention that thereโs a Harmony Remote Discussion where Harmony issues and workarounds have been discussed (including the refresh bug introduced in 2.3 that can affect remote operation). The standby mode you reference is โVideo On Standbyโ. Edit: Thereโs some discussion before, but this post outlines the โrefresh bugโ and my testing, it and following posts show a Harmony workaround (until the bug is fixed). emotivalounge.proboards.com/post/1075822/thread |
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Post by msimanyi on Feb 28, 2022 18:50:52 GMT -5
I will check that out. Thank you!
Still haven't solved it on my end, but I realized I was leaving the Raspberry Pi plugged in all the time and thought perhaps that's impacting it. When the problem occurs, the app doesn't see the RMC-1 properly on the network, hence my thought.
Nope - didn't impact it in the least removing that. Hopefully I can find some good options in the link!
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Post by p4t on Mar 4, 2022 7:24:58 GMT -5
I have a questions, maybe somebody here already try it. My setting is 7.1.4 and my atmos speakers located on middle and rear ceiling almost touching the rear wall. My question is, if my setting on xmc2 for atmos speakers top middle and top rear then I run dirac live, then if I change the setting to top front and top rear then run dirac live, will the sound much difference? Or it doesnt matter how you set it, and dirac will fix it based on dirac alogarithm?
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Post by marcl on Mar 4, 2022 8:49:12 GMT -5
I have a questions, maybe somebody here already try it. My setting is 7.1.4 and my atmos speakers located on middle and rear ceiling almost touching the rear wall. My question is, if my setting on xmc2 for atmos speakers top middle and top rear then I run dirac live, then if I change the setting to top front and top rear then run dirac live, will the sound much difference? Or it doesnt matter how you set it, and dirac will fix it based on dirac alogarithm? Dirac doesn't really have any relationship with your Atmos settings in the way that you describe. How you designate the location of Atmos speakers makes a difference to the processor because the Atmos processing has to know where the speakers are located in order to steer the sounds though the room. It assumes that if you call a speaker by a particular name, that the speaker is located within the range as described in the Dolby spec. So irrespective of Dirac, if you change the designation of the speakers without moving them, the Atmos processing may steer sounds differently and it may sound different. Depending on the content, you may or may not notice. Here's the Dolby spec for reference.  Now as for Dirac, here are a couple things ... - Dirac uses the names of the speaker locations when it creates the calibration file. If you later change the names in the processor (i.e. from Top Middle to Top Front), the Dirac calibration may not apply to the new location.
- Since Dirac uses the names in the calibration file, if you change the names, you will not be able to reload the calibration file into Dirac. It will say something like "the file you selected was created for a different speaker configuration"
- Dirac measures each speaker individually, determines its distance from the main listening position (measurement location #1) and determines its level relative to position #1. Atmos assumes the speakers are time and level aligned. Dirac is just going to time-align and level-match the channels, and correct frequency and impulse response, based on the measurement. Dirac doesn't consider the "job" the speaker does in an Atmos context.
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Post by marcl on Mar 4, 2022 9:30:03 GMT -5
As I see a couple people ready to dive into Dirac calibration this weekend I'd like to share a couple things. First, as we always recommend, please look at the first three posts of this thread for useful information on Dirac and the calibration method. Things have evolved with Dirac and users' understanding of it over the years and it's important to review the latest information as some methods and tutorials from even a year ago are out of date. I'll add a link here to a volume calibration method that was posted on AVSForum. I found it useful for the calibration I did yesterday. Yeah, after many dozens of Dirac calibrations over 3 1/2 years I still learn things.
mehlau.net/audio/dirac-live-2-mic-speaker-levels/A couple comments: - Most of us set the subwoofer level 5-10db higher than all the other speakers. If you don't do this, Dirac will measure the subs at a much lower level and the result will be a final volume alignment that requires you to turn the listening volume up several db. It's not necessarily a problem, but it is disconcerting to many people.
- If you set the calibration volume too high, Dirac will detect clipping and shut down the measurement to protect your speakers (and your ears). You'll have to go back and set the levels again.
- The link above mentions looking at the background noise on the Mic level slider and moving the Mic level so background noise is around -50db. Good recommendation. I set mine to -55db yesterday. Then I set my speaker levels to -26db and my sub level to -19db. Looking for the 20-30db signal to noise ratio. But depending on the efficiency of your speakers this may be too loud or too quiet. There is no one correct level for everyone.
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KeithL
Administrator
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Post by KeithL on Mar 4, 2022 10:15:39 GMT -5
Marcl already provided an excellent summary of how Atmos and Dirac "interact" (or don't) with each other.
There's one other thing which might be worth mentioning (based on the way you worded the question).
Dirac Live, and the corrections it applies, are on one sense of the word "static"...
When you run Dirac Live, it takes its measurements, calculates the corrections to apply, and downloads the filters that apply those corrections to the processor. What you need to understand is that the corrections Dirac Live applies are in the form of "making your speaker act as if it was a perfect speaker in a perfect room" (or as close as it can get to that goal). The corrections themselves are NOT going to "sense what you're playing" or "automatically adjust depending on what channel or content you're sending to that speaker". That's why, if you get new speakers, or rearrange the room, you need to run Dirac Live again, so it can take new measurements and calculate new corrections.
So, in that sense, "Dirac doesn't care what you're playing through that speaker", and "Atmos doesn't know that your speakers are being corrected using adjustments calculated by Dirac Live".
And, if you change your speaker designations, Dirac Live will complain about a filter mismatch "because it knows something has changed - but it doesn't know what". In specific, in your example, when you changed your configuration, "you got rid of a pair of speakers and added a pair of speakers". Therefore the original set of Dirac Live filters is no longer a match to your new speaker setup.
(And Dirac Live has no reason to assume that, even though you've changed your "speaker configuration", the same physical pair of speakers is still connected to the same set of output terminals on the processor.) In theory, when you run Dirac Live again, and assuming nothing else has changed, after measuring that same pair of speakers, Dirac Live will apply the same or very similar corrections. (Although even moving the microphone or your couch a few inches may make a tiny difference here or there.) HOWEVER, the Dolby Atmos decoder very much cares which sets of speakers you have, and may decode things a bit differently now that you have "different pairs of height speakers installed".
I have a questions, maybe somebody here already try it. My setting is 7.1.4 and my atmos speakers located on middle and rear ceiling almost touching the rear wall. My question is, if my setting on xmc2 for atmos speakers top middle and top rear then I run dirac live, then if I change the setting to top front and top rear then run dirac live, will the sound much difference? Or it doesnt matter how you set it, and dirac will fix it based on dirac alogarithm? |
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Post by marcl on Mar 4, 2022 10:32:51 GMT -5
Marcl already provided an excellent summary of how Atmos and Dirac "interact" (or don't) with each other.
There's one other thing which might be worth mentioning (based on the way you worded the question).
Dirac Live, and the corrections it applies, are on one sense of the word "static"...
When you run Dirac Live, it takes its measurements, calculates the corrections to apply, and downloads the filters that apply those corrections to the processor. What you need to understand is that the corrections Dirac Live applies are in the form of "making your speaker act as if it was a perfect speaker in a perfect room" (or as close as it can get to that goal). The corrections themselves are NOT going to "sense what you're playing" or "automatically adjust depending on what channel or content you're sending to that speaker". That's why, if you get new speakers, or rearrange the room, you need to run Dirac Live again, so it can take new measurements and calculate new corrections.
So, in that sense, "Dirac doesn't care what you're playing through that speaker", and "Atmos doesn't know that your speakers are being corrected using adjustments calculated by Dirac Live".
And, if you change your speaker designations, Dirac Live will complain about a filter mismatch "because it knows something has changed - but it doesn't know what". In specific, in your example, when you changed your configuration, "you got rid of a pair of speakers and added a pair of speakers". Therefore the original set of Dirac Live filters is no longer a match to your new speaker setup.
(And Dirac Live has no reason to assume that, even though you've changed your "speaker configuration", the same physical pair of speakers is still connected to the same set of output terminals on the processor.) In theory, when you run Dirac Live again, and assuming nothing else has changed, after measuring that same pair of speakers, Dirac Live will apply the same or very similar corrections. (Although even moving the microphone or your couch a few inches may make a tiny difference here or there.) HOWEVER, the Dolby Atmos decoder very much cares which sets of speakers you have, and may decode things a bit differently now that you have "different pairs of height speakers installed".
I have a questions, maybe somebody here already try it. My setting is 7.1.4 and my atmos speakers located on middle and rear ceiling almost touching the rear wall. My question is, if my setting on xmc2 for atmos speakers top middle and top rear then I run dirac live, then if I change the setting to top front and top rear then run dirac live, will the sound much difference? Or it doesnt matter how you set it, and dirac will fix it based on dirac alogarithm? KeithL I second guessed myself a couple times on one point. I know for sure if in Size you change a speaker to None and try to load a Dirac configuration it won't work. But if you were to change Front Height from Sm Top Middle to Sm Top Front, would Dirac know the difference and not run the correction filters for that speaker, and refuse to load a project in the software citing a speaker configuration mismatch? I checked my Dirac backup file and here's what it records as my Front Height and Rear Height speakers:  So I'm thinking if I changed to Top Middle Dirac would not work. |
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KeithL
Administrator
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Post by KeithL on Mar 4, 2022 12:15:26 GMT -5
That's an interesting question... and I don't know the answer. (I'm thinking you're probably right though...)
I'm not sure if the Dirac Live software internally recognizes each speaker "by name" or "by processor channel". (Technically the correction filter would still be "correct and valid" for that physical speaker at that physical location.) Marcl already provided an excellent summary of how Atmos and Dirac "interact" (or don't) with each other. There's one other thing which might be worth mentioning (based on the way you worded the question). Dirac Live, and the corrections it applies, are on one sense of the word "static"... When you run Dirac Live, it takes its measurements, calculates the corrections to apply, and downloads the filters that apply those corrections to the processor. What you need to understand is that the corrections Dirac Live applies are in the form of "making your speaker act as if it was a perfect speaker in a perfect room" (or as close as it can get to that goal). The corrections themselves are NOT going to "sense what you're playing" or "automatically adjust depending on what channel or content you're sending to that speaker". That's why, if you get new speakers, or rearrange the room, you need to run Dirac Live again, so it can take new measurements and calculate new corrections. So, in that sense, "Dirac doesn't care what you're playing through that speaker", and "Atmos doesn't know that your speakers are being corrected using adjustments calculated by Dirac Live".
And, if you change your speaker designations, Dirac Live will complain about a filter mismatch "because it knows something has changed - but it doesn't know what". In specific, in your example, when you changed your configuration, "you got rid of a pair of speakers and added a pair of speakers". Therefore the original set of Dirac Live filters is no longer a match to your new speaker setup.
(And Dirac Live has no reason to assume that, even though you've changed your "speaker configuration", the same physical pair of speakers is still connected to the same set of output terminals on the processor.) In theory, when you run Dirac Live again, and assuming nothing else has changed, after measuring that same pair of speakers, Dirac Live will apply the same or very similar corrections. (Although even moving the microphone or your couch a few inches may make a tiny difference here or there.) HOWEVER, the Dolby Atmos decoder very much cares which sets of speakers you have, and may decode things a bit differently now that you have "different pairs of height speakers installed". KeithL I second guessed myself a couple times on one point. I know for sure if in Size you change a speaker to None and try to load a Dirac configuration it won't work. But if you were to change Front Height from Sm Top Middle to Sm Top Front, would Dirac know the difference and not run the correction filters for that speaker, and refuse to load a project in the software citing a speaker configuration mismatch? I checked my Dirac backup file and here's what it records as my Front Height and Rear Height speakers: <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> So I'm thinking if I changed to Top Middle Dirac would not work. |
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Post by p4t on Mar 4, 2022 12:33:46 GMT -5
I have a questions, maybe somebody here already try it. My setting is 7.1.4 and my atmos speakers located on middle and rear ceiling almost touching the rear wall. My question is, if my setting on xmc2 for atmos speakers top middle and top rear then I run dirac live, then if I change the setting to top front and top rear then run dirac live, will the sound much difference? Or it doesnt matter how you set it, and dirac will fix it based on dirac alogarithm? Dirac doesn't really have any relationship with your Atmos settings in the way that you describe. How you designate the location of Atmos speakers makes a difference to the processor because the Atmos processing has to know where the speakers are located in order to steer the sounds though the room. It assumes that if you call a speaker by a particular name, that the speaker is located within the range as described in the Dolby spec. So irrespective of Dirac, if you change the designation of the speakers without moving them, the Atmos processing may steer sounds differently and it may sound different. Depending on the content, you may or may not notice. Here's the Dolby spec for reference. <button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button> Now as for Dirac, here are a couple things ... - Dirac uses the names of the speaker locations when it creates the calibration file. If you later change the names in the processor (i.e. from Top Middle to Top Front), the Dirac calibration may not apply to the new location.
- Since Dirac uses the names in the calibration file, if you change the names, you will not be able to reload the calibration file into Dirac. It will say something like "the file you selected was created for a different speaker configuration"
- Dirac measures each speaker individually, determines its distance from the main listening position (measurement location #1) and determines its level relative to position #1. Atmos assumes the speakers are time and level aligned. Dirac is just going to time-align and level-match the channels, and correct frequency and impulse response, based on the measurement. Dirac doesn't consider the "job" the speaker does in an Atmos context.
Ok, I got it. Thank you Marcl. |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Mar 4, 2022 18:59:47 GMT -5
โฆFirst, as we always recommend, please look at the first three posts of this thread for useful information on Dirac and the calibration method. Things have evolved with Dirac and users' understanding of it over the years and it's important to review the latest information as some methods and tutorials from even a year ago are out of date. I'll add a link here to a volume calibration method that was posted on AVSForum. I found it useful for the calibration I did yesterday. Yeah, after many dozens of Dirac calibrations over 3 1/2 years I still learn things.
mehlau.net/audio/dirac-live-2-mic-speaker-levels/โฆ FYI, this link is already on the 2nd page under the title โ Setting microphone and speaker levelsโ. Iโve found it useful too. |
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Post by marcl on Mar 4, 2022 19:15:41 GMT -5
โฆFirst, as we always recommend, please look at the first three posts of this thread for useful information on Dirac and the calibration method. Things have evolved with Dirac and users' understanding of it over the years and it's important to review the latest information as some methods and tutorials from even a year ago are out of date. I'll add a link here to a volume calibration method that was posted on AVSForum. I found it useful for the calibration I did yesterday. Yeah, after many dozens of Dirac calibrations over 3 1/2 years I still learn things.
mehlau.net/audio/dirac-live-2-mic-speaker-levels/โฆ FYI, this link is already on the 2nd page under the title โ Setting microphone and speaker levelsโ. Iโve found it useful too. I think the thing that's so difficult with the volume calibration is the wide range of speaker efficiency and amplifier power. I have a 12db difference from my surrounds to my top rears. And the fact that no matter how you set the levels, Dirac will measure your subs lower and the result will be a lower listening level. I followed the method exactly and ended up with a volume setting of -25db, but then it measured the subs like 12db below the fronts, and I had to increase my listening level by about 6db. So I went back and did it again with the sub level set 6-7db higher, and it still measured the sub below the fronts, but my final listening level was back to normal (nominally -18 to -16). Average user can't get their head around all this back and forth. So the main thing is to promote a process that will not fry the speakers, as has actually happened to some people. |
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