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Post by blister64 on Jun 29, 2020 13:17:59 GMT -5
'H' is a rail voltage switching PS, not really an amplifier 'class'. The DR series is A/B, which is FINE.....no need to BS people. Fine, I prefer class A even though I hear people suggest that class whatever is more efficient by generating less heat. Power is cheap where I live so what do I care if a lot of heat is generated @hair nick Really love your videos Nick. Wish you'd explain more about your liquor selection from the bar. I've never handled "hard liquor" well and don't really know what one may mean when describing Brandy as smooth In all seriousness I appreciate your use of your subs sensitivity rating. I recently took a db rating of my subs when the mains were at THX levels. I like my soundstage a little more bass heavy and while mains were dialed in at 105db the bass is now 120 db so ignore the 122.6 db from 10 feet in front of the soundstage while listening to Jazz music. Can't wait till your next video Hair Nick! Thanks man. I'm Kyle, I actually have the Life of Bliss YouTube channel. I don't get on here very often, Nick works for Emotiva and posts the reviews up in here when they happen. Let me know what questions you have about the bar and I'll try to answer! It's mainly bourbon or American whiskey. Not much else besides a random bottle of scotch or two... I was speaking on the sensitivity of the mains actually. They are 99 dB @ 2.83v/1m. They are the 1299s from DIY Sound group. The Stereo Integrity HS24s had a sensitivity of about 96 dB I think... But they get down pretty good. Was hitting 115 dB at 7 Hz and in the mid 120s anywhere above 10 Hz before I starting worrying about the house... I prefer my bass a bit heavy as well. You have similar numbers to what I prefer
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Post by blister64 on Jun 29, 2020 13:20:24 GMT -5
Why would using unbalanced be a problem? Many people don't have balanced but want the DR for other reasons. Unbalanced and Balanced only helps connection versatility and hurts nothing. I wish the reviewers would get how these amps work, right. It is a Class H power supply rail system, and class AB amplifier stages. Amazing no reviewer gets it right. It is after all right here. emotiva.com/collections/amps/products/xpa-dr3. Not like it's a secret. My thing is if you don't get the technical right, don't do the technical. Very easy honestly. Sorry it wasn't worded the way you like. I've seen many different resources refer to that type of amp as a class H. As I mentioned in the video, I am definitely not an expert in amp design. There are much smarter people than me watching this video who could definitely educate me the inner workings of the amp.
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Post by leonski on Jul 6, 2020 3:32:42 GMT -5
MG, It' STILL not an amplifier class. But rather a PS configuration. Call it what you will.... And yes, Carver had a couple weird names, like he usually does. Tracking Downconvertor PS or some such. My M400t had such a PS, using 2 or 3 rails and a choke the size of your fist.....Amp emitted a 'putt-putt' sound which was the PS cycling.... It worked, no matter WHAT you call it. Amp was compact, dense and a PIA to disassemble. Like an electronic Chinese Puzzle box. But still an A/B output. Come to think of it? the BIAS may have tracked the input, too...but I don't know that for certain. It DID run fairly cool, even when pushed to the limit driving 5ohm Magnepans....MG-1
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haptik
Seeker Of Truth
Posts: 8
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Post by haptik on Jul 15, 2020 11:23:54 GMT -5
Why would using unbalanced be a problem? Many people don't have balanced but want the DR for other reasons. Unbalanced and Balanced only helps connection versatility and hurts nothing. I wish the reviewers would get how these amps work, right. It is a Class H power supply rail system, and class AB amplifier stages. Amazing no reviewer gets it right. It is after all right here. emotiva.com/collections/amps/products/xpa-dr3. Not like it's a secret. My thing is if you don't get the technical right, don't do the technical. Very easy honestly. I'd like to understand this, too. Going balanced would mean higher voltage output from the receiver to the amp, and lower noise floor, but even unbalanced the amp should still be able to output the same wattage, right?
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Post by vcautokid on Jul 15, 2020 13:08:06 GMT -5
Yes it will. Balanced is mostly about common noise cancelation and getting the full differential topology is nice bonus.
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Post by leonski on Jul 16, 2020 15:36:40 GMT -5
The GENERAL rule is that if you want the FULL benefit of a balanced topology, it should be so from source to amp. Conversions from / to balanced-single ended CAN introduce problems. I'd say not huge or insurrmountable, but I'd personally (and I do) keep such conversions to a minimum. My amps, for example, have a balanced in. Preamp, likewise has balanced OUT. But neither is 'native' balanced so i use single ended. The ONLY place I use balanced is from DAC (I don't know if it is native) to pre, which I know ISN'T. My amps have an OUTPUT which is only single ended, and I think also if you use balanced IN. In my case, I run a single lead to the amp, and an 18" (eighteen INCH) jumper from out of A to in of B. Then I can biamp.
As for Haptik? You got it right. I just watched a video on Ham Radio 'Shack' grounding using some aftermarket device. I really thought that based on audio, this guy was wrong. I become convinced which he glossed over Ground Loop which he clearly didn't understand. IMO, for you HAM radio guys? Multiple grounds MIGHT be a problem. Except a dedicated ground for your 'tower'.
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