Successful startup order for XMC-1 with V3 board?

[petes]

I've just finally got around to installing the v3 HDMI board in my XMC1.  I've had the board for quite a while, but didn't need to swap over as my TV wasn't 4K.  Now a nice 4K oled is coming tomorrow so was going to do the swap anyway, and the final straw was a massive lightning strike a couple of days ago, which actually blew the video output on the old board completely - input was working and sound was fine, but no video passthru.

So, spent several hours pulling the rack to pieces to get the xmc out, then about 10 mins swapping the board over.  After another couple of hours tidying up all of the cables, swapping over hdmi's for new monoprice and a fiber for the run to the tv from the rack, I turned it all on to a blank screen.  After initially pulling my hair out and thinking that i'd damaged the fibre cable pulling it through the conduit, I swapped inputs - voila - all working.  Switched back, and still all working.  However, turn it off and on, and no good - no image until I switch inputs.

My question is - what startup order to you guys use?  It doesn't actually matter as the whole thing is controlled by programmable remote anyway, so I can do whatever, but I'd be curious for any input on the order that works best, or I'll just have to build a "start on an empty input, then switch back" to the script.

Thanks

pete S
 

[megash0n]

Aug 19, 2020 18:00:10 GMT -5 petes said:

I've just finally got around to installing the v3 HDMI board in my XMC1.  I've had the board for quite a while, but didn't need to swap over as my TV wasn't 4K.  Now a nice 4K oled is coming tomorrow so was going to do the swap anyway, and the final straw was a massive lightning strike a couple of days ago, which actually blew the video output on the old board completely - input was working and sound was fine, but no video passthru.

So, spent several hours pulling the rack to pieces to get the xmc out, then about 10 mins swapping the board over.  After another couple of hours tidying up all of the cables, swapping over hdmi's for new monoprice and a fiber for the run to the tv from the rack, I turned it all on to a blank screen.  After initially pulling my hair out and thinking that i'd damaged the fibre cable pulling it through the conduit, I swapped inputs - voila - all working.  Switched back, and still all working.  However, turn it off and on, and no good - no image until I switch inputs.

My question is - what startup order to you guys use?  It doesn't actually matter as the whole thing is controlled by programmable remote anyway, so I can do whatever, but I'd be curious for any input on the order that works best, or I'll just have to build a "start on an empty input, then switch back" to the script.

Thanks

pete S
 

Welcome to Emotiva 4k. Good luck. I hope you get it straight soon.

[doc1963]

Aug 19, 2020 18:00:10 GMT -5 petes said:

I've just finally got around to installing the v3 HDMI board in my XMC1.  I've had the board for quite a while, but didn't need to swap over as my TV wasn't 4K.  Now a nice 4K oled is coming tomorrow so was going to do the swap anyway, and the final straw was a massive lightning strike a couple of days ago, which actually blew the video output on the old board completely - input was working and sound was fine, but no video passthru.

So, spent several hours pulling the rack to pieces to get the xmc out, then about 10 mins swapping the board over.  After another couple of hours tidying up all of the cables, swapping over hdmi's for new monoprice and a fiber for the run to the tv from the rack, I turned it all on to a blank screen.  After initially pulling my hair out and thinking that i'd damaged the fibre cable pulling it through the conduit, I swapped inputs - voila - all working.  Switched back, and still all working.  However, turn it off and on, and no good - no image until I switch inputs.

My question is - what startup order to you guys use?  It doesn't actually matter as the whole thing is controlled by programmable remote anyway, so I can do whatever, but I'd be curious for any input on the order that works best, or I'll just have to build a "start on an empty input, then switch back" to the script.

Thanks

pete S
 

Sink > Switch (Processor) > Source. Make sure you’re using HDMI Out 2 on your XMC-1 (which is the opposite of the old board). Hang in there, it might stabilize on its own.

[Gary Cook]

I use low power standby on the XMC-1, takes a bit longer to boot up but works every time.

Cheers
Gary

[bolle]

Did you update the firmware after installing the new board? Stability has much improved over the last versions.

[405x5]

Aug 19, 2020 18:00:10 GMT -5 petes said:

I've just finally got around to installing the v3 HDMI board in my XMC1.  I've had the board for quite a while, but didn't need to swap over as my TV wasn't 4K.  Now a nice 4K oled is coming tomorrow so was going to do the swap anyway, and the final straw was a massive lightning strike a couple of days ago, which actually blew the video output on the old board completely - input was working and sound was fine, but no video passthru.

So, spent several hours pulling the rack to pieces to get the xmc out, then about 10 mins swapping the board over.  After another couple of hours tidying up all of the cables, swapping over hdmi's for new monoprice and a fiber for the run to the tv from the rack, I turned it all on to a blank screen.  After initially pulling my hair out and thinking that i'd damaged the fibre cable pulling it through the conduit, I swapped inputs - voila - all working.  Switched back, and still all working.  However, turn it off and on, and no good - no image until I switch inputs.

My question is - what startup order to you guys use?  It doesn't actually matter as the whole thing is controlled by programmable remote anyway, so I can do whatever, but I'd be curious for any input on the order that works best, or I'll just have to build a "start on an empty input, then switch back" to the script.

Thanks

pete S
 

I know this can’t be easy to hear, but after that lightning strike you described and saying it cooked the board....no one could be sure of the integrity of the entire unit without a bench test. I would have sent everything back to the company for installation and testing under those circumstances.

Bill

[krauley]

 I pull the plugs everytime i know theres a storm in the area. EVERYTIME!
Good luck with your XMC-1 as its a great unit.

[petes]

Aug 20, 2020 9:03:54 GMT -5 405x5 said:

I know this can’t be easy to hear, but after that lightning strike you described and saying it cooked the board....no one could be sure of the integrity of the entire unit without a bench test. I would have sent everything back to the company for installation and testing under those circumstances.

Bill

Yep - it's a little concerning, but the strike didn't actually hit us - just close by. Any literally the only thing that went was the output of the XMC - we have completely modern electrics and none of the breakers even tripped. Add to that that I live in the UK, so sending it back to hundreds of $ and probably 3 or more weeks turn around, it's not really a go-er.

The good news is - it's all working, so playing it by ear for now.

(except CEC of course, but the board for that has been toast since day 1)

[petes]

Aug 20, 2020 10:23:29 GMT -5 krauley said:

 I pull the plugs everytime i know theres a storm in the area. EVERYTIME!
Good luck with your XMC-1 as its a great unit.

Yep - I've had it since the very early days. Once we got through those teething problems with early firmware (hmmm, sound familiar), it's great and really solid. TBH, I've got the offer to swap over to an XMC-2, but I'm reluctant to go through all of that pain again when the XMC1 is really solid - assuming the V3 board plays nicely of course. Seems to be OK for now.

[petes]

Aug 20, 2020 5:37:03 GMT -5 bolle said:

Did you update the firmware after installing the new board? Stability has much improved over the last versions.

Yep - put the latest one on there as soon as I'd done the hardware swap. Was a bit of a fiddle since the XMC1 wouldn't see the update - no idea what the naming convention is supposed to be now, but it wouldn't find it. After messing around, I changed the name of the new update to be the same as the "special" upgrade one, and then it saw it and happily did the upgrade.

[Gary Cook]

Aug 20, 2020 5:37:03 GMT -5 bolle said:

Did you update the firmware after installing the new board? Stability has much improved over the last versions.

I'm still on the original version, no issues so no need to update.

Cheers
Gary

[bolle]

Aug 20, 2020 16:49:36 GMT -5 Gary Cook said:

Aug 20, 2020 5:37:03 GMT -5 bolle said:

Did you update the firmware after installing the new board? Stability has much improved over the last versions.

I'm still on the original version, no issues so no need to update.

Cheers
Gary

That may be the case for you and - good for you! - but generally the firmware has much improved from 5.4 on, so it it sound advice to update. I am still on 5.8 but that made a huge difference to 5.4.

[rlstrader]

Aug 19, 2020 18:36:13 GMT -5 doc1963 said:

Aug 19, 2020 18:00:10 GMT -5 petes said:

I've just finally got around to installing the v3 HDMI board in my XMC1.  I've had the board for quite a while, but didn't need to swap over as my TV wasn't 4K.  Now a nice 4K oled is coming tomorrow so was going to do the swap anyway, and the final straw was a massive lightning strike a couple of days ago, which actually blew the video output on the old board completely - input was working and sound was fine, but no video passthru.

So, spent several hours pulling the rack to pieces to get the xmc out, then about 10 mins swapping the board over.  After another couple of hours tidying up all of the cables, swapping over hdmi's for new monoprice and a fiber for the run to the tv from the rack, I turned it all on to a blank screen.  After initially pulling my hair out and thinking that i'd damaged the fibre cable pulling it through the conduit, I swapped inputs - voila - all working.  Switched back, and still all working.  However, turn it off and on, and no good - no image until I switch inputs.

My question is - what startup order to you guys use?  It doesn't actually matter as the whole thing is controlled by programmable remote anyway, so I can do whatever, but I'd be curious for any input on the order that works best, or I'll just have to build a "start on an empty input, then switch back" to the script.

Thanks

pete S
 

Sink > Switch (Processor) > Source. Make sure you’re using HDMI Out 2 on your XMC-1 (which is the opposite of the old board). Hang in there, it might stabilize on its own.

I have the same issue. I tried using HDMI Out 2 but it did not work. Do I have to change anything on the XMC-1 to make it work?


I have tried using the "lowest power" standby mode and that seemed to work although it kept making my cable box reset to the 720P from 4K setting.

[doc1963]

Nov 4, 2020 18:28:01 GMT -5 rlstrader said:

Aug 19, 2020 18:36:13 GMT -5 doc1963 said:

Sink > Switch (Processor) > Source. Make sure you’re using HDMI Out 2 on your XMC-1 (which is the opposite of the old board). Hang in there, it might stabilize on its own.

I have the same issue. I tried using HDMI Out 2 but it did not work. Do I have to change anything on the XMC-1 to make it work?


I have tried using the "lowest power" standby mode and that seemed to work although it kept making my cable box reset to the 720P from 4K setting.

Cable boxes always seem to cause the most problems and the causes are not easy to diagnose or to overcome. IMO, the biggest reason for this issue is that the cable box never truly powers down and either doesn’t renegotiate a successful handshake or “times out” before the XMC-1 completes its bootup. This is why the simple act of switching to a different input, and then back, resolves the issue... a new handshake occurs.

Regardless of the cause and effect, here’s what I suggest you try. First, always use HDMI Out 2 as it is the “primary” output of the G3 HDMI board. Second, move your cable box to HDMI In 5. Then, go to “Setup > Inputs > HDMI 5 > HDMI Type” and change the HDMI type to 1.4 (2.0 is the default).

Now, place your XMC-1 into standby and turn off the master power switch on the back panel. Press the “standby” button on the XMC-1’s front panel and hold it in for 5 seconds. Unplug the power cord of your cable box (which is the only way to fully turn it off). Now, wait 5 minutes.

After 5 minutes has passed, turn on your display (TV) and wait for it to boot. Then, turn on the master power switch of your XMC-1 and boot it up. Lastly, plug in your cable box and immediately switch your XMC-1 to HDMI 5.

This may help or it may not, but do try it. If it doesn’t help, there are other options. The easiest of which would be to connect the cable box directly to the display and run audio only back to your XMC-1, but let’s try this first... 😉

[rlstrader]

doc1963,

Thanks for the reply. Two additional questions, though:

1. Why is Out 2 better than 1?
2. If I set my cable input to 1.4, won't I lose 4K60fps, and HDR when streaming Netflix and Prime?

[doc1963]

Nov 5, 2020 17:46:29 GMT -5 rlstrader said:

doc1963,

Thanks for the reply. Two additional questions, though:

1. Why is Out 2 better than 1?
2. If I set my cable input to 1.4, won't I lose 4K60fps, and HDR when streaming Netflix and Prime?

Sorry for my late response... since you didn’t “tag” or quote me, I didn’t realize you had additional questions.

From a capabilities perspective, aside from being the only output with support for ARC, there is no benefit from using HDMI Output 2 over HDMI Output 1. However, since HDMI Out 2 is designed to be (and specifically appointed as) the “primary” output, it’s always desirable to use this output as such. I’m sure there could be some other “technical” reasons why one is preferred over the other, but since Emotiva designed the board, that question is best answered by them directly. But from my perspective, since the ports are only an inch apart, I would opt to use the designated “primary”.

As for your cable box, yes, limiting the input to only HDMI 1.4 compatibility would cause you to lose support for “true” 4K@60Hz. When you said “cable box”, I immediately assumed you had the garden variety cable box that most would have. Newer generation boxes would require an HDMI 2.0 handshake to support 4K UHD streaming.