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Post by leonski on Feb 15, 2022 23:28:43 GMT -5
AH! Potentially a good idea.......I'll bet if I had a MiniDSP, I could to the SAME thing....
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Feb 16, 2022 22:58:47 GMT -5
I found a very good video for "aligning" multiple subs together using REW. For "normal" setups with multiple subs connected to a miniDSP, one input from the processor, multiple outputs to all the subs, the procedure is very well explained. It looks to be quite a bit easier than how I've been doing things, so I'll try it out this weekend.
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Post by p4t on Feb 18, 2022 9:56:41 GMT -5
I have a questions. Maybe a silly questions. If I have 2 SVS SB3000 and 2 JL E112, is there a general rule of thumb about how to corner placing these subs! For example both sb3000 on front corner and both JL on rear corner, or cris cros, SB3000s on front right corner and left rear corner, E112 on front left corner and right rear corner. Also if I replaced Both E112 to 2 SB3000, does all 4 SB3000 overall make a better sound as they are the same subs now? Thank you. Sorry I missed this when originally posted. I would avoid a "criss cross" approach, it might be interesting to experiment with, but I wouldn't expect miracles and it might even sound a bit "off" or uneven. If it's possible, try mid-wall placement. When given the opportunity to try both, mid-wall vs corner can make for better overall results. No problem. Yeah maybe I will avoid criss cross setup. Regarding midwall position I heard from gene of audioholics, it will give the smoothest FR but loss a lot of SPL. He always suggest corner location, so we get a few db boost because of in the corner and then just need to eq it. And I did some experiment with elevated the sub a few feet and it can do wonders with FR. |
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Post by ttocs on Feb 18, 2022 10:21:44 GMT -5
Sorry I missed this when originally posted. I would avoid a "criss cross" approach, it might be interesting to experiment with, but I wouldn't expect miracles and it might even sound a bit "off" or uneven. If it's possible, try mid-wall placement. When given the opportunity to try both, mid-wall vs corner can make for better overall results. No problem. Yeah maybe I will avoid criss cross setup. Regarding midwall position I heard from gene of audioholics, it will give the smoothest FR but loss a lot of SPL. He always suggest corner location, so we get a few db boost because of in the corner and then just need to eq it. And I did some experiment with elevated the sub a few feet and it can do wonders with FR. Raising subs can give some good results. Kind of like moving the sub farther from the wall, because I think it's just moving the starting point of the wave up which effectively moves where it interacts with the MLP. At the same time though it's also removing interaction with the floor. It's always something. I wish we could use something like that Flo-vis paint they use in Formula One, whereby we could visually see the effects of frequency waves. But I guess we do have something kinda close with REW's RTA when we also use Generator to see the live response. Also, you might want to try using vvvvery thick rock wool. I experimented with the usual 3-1/2" thick stuff and layered it up thicker and thicker, measuring in-between, and ended up two columns 14" thick x 24" wide x 6' tall, and placed them next to my Front L&R on the MLP side, so yes - they're very visible - but they tamed bass reflections/cancellations a lot. In the end, I'm making smaller versions using 24" x 48" x 7.5" thick rock wool (easier to work with). I'm making one that's over 6' tall, and two more just 2x4'. These help in the. bass region with reducing the nulls and reducing decay. I've done a lot of experiments placing lots of panels all over my room to find the best spots that help the most. Unfortunately, my room is not one that benefits as much by placing thick stuff in vertical corners and where walls meet floor. No. The best spots happen to be the most cumbersome visually. The absolute best result is when I have 15" thick by 4-6' tall but extend the panels to 4' wide, basically encroaching on the seating area. But we gotta pick our poison, so I compromise knowing things could be better, but I want the place to look nice, so . . . . |
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Post by p4t on Feb 19, 2022 9:52:34 GMT -5
No problem. Yeah maybe I will avoid criss cross setup. Regarding midwall position I heard from gene of audioholics, it will give the smoothest FR but loss a lot of SPL. He always suggest corner location, so we get a few db boost because of in the corner and then just need to eq it. And I did some experiment with elevated the sub a few feet and it can do wonders with FR. Raising subs can give some good results. Kind of like moving the sub farther from the wall, because I think it's just moving the starting point of the wave up which effectively moves where it interacts with the MLP. At the same time though it's also removing interaction with the floor. It's always something. I wish we could use something like that Flo-vis paint they use in Formula One, whereby we could visually see the effects of frequency waves. But I guess we do have something kinda close with REW's RTA when we also use Generator to see the live response. Also, you might want to try using vvvvery thick rock wool. I experimented with the usual 3-1/2" thick stuff and layered it up thicker and thicker, measuring in-between, and ended up two columns 14" thick x 24" wide x 6' tall, and placed them next to my Front L&R on the MLP side, so yes - they're very visible - but they tamed bass reflections/cancellations a lot. In the end, I'm making smaller versions using 24" x 48" x 7.5" thick rock wool (easier to work with). I'm making one that's over 6' tall, and two more just 2x4'. These help in the. bass region with reducing the nulls and reducing decay. I've done a lot of experiments placing lots of panels all over my room to find the best spots that help the most. Unfortunately, my room is not one that benefits as much by placing thick stuff in vertical corners and where walls meet floor. No. The best spots happen to be the most cumbersome visually. The absolute best result is when I have 15" thick by 4-6' tall but extend the panels to 4' wide, basically encroaching on the seating area. But we gotta pick our poison, so I compromise knowing things could be better, but I want the place to look nice, so . . . . Yes, room acoustics is very tricky. Just wondering is there a trick or easier way on how to find the best spot to place an bass trap in a room. My room have a FR dip at 45Hz. No matter where I position the sub, always have dip in this freq. I think this is a room mode. |
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Post by marcl on Feb 19, 2022 10:40:57 GMT -5
Raising subs can give some good results. Kind of like moving the sub farther from the wall, because I think it's just moving the starting point of the wave up which effectively moves where it interacts with the MLP. At the same time though it's also removing interaction with the floor. It's always something. I wish we could use something like that Flo-vis paint they use in Formula One, whereby we could visually see the effects of frequency waves. But I guess we do have something kinda close with REW's RTA when we also use Generator to see the live response. Also, you might want to try using vvvvery thick rock wool. I experimented with the usual 3-1/2" thick stuff and layered it up thicker and thicker, measuring in-between, and ended up two columns 14" thick x 24" wide x 6' tall, and placed them next to my Front L&R on the MLP side, so yes - they're very visible - but they tamed bass reflections/cancellations a lot. In the end, I'm making smaller versions using 24" x 48" x 7.5" thick rock wool (easier to work with). I'm making one that's over 6' tall, and two more just 2x4'. These help in the. bass region with reducing the nulls and reducing decay. I've done a lot of experiments placing lots of panels all over my room to find the best spots that help the most. Unfortunately, my room is not one that benefits as much by placing thick stuff in vertical corners and where walls meet floor. No. The best spots happen to be the most cumbersome visually. The absolute best result is when I have 15" thick by 4-6' tall but extend the panels to 4' wide, basically encroaching on the seating area. But we gotta pick our poison, so I compromise knowing things could be better, but I want the place to look nice, so . . . . Yes, room acoustics is very tricky. Just wondering is there a trick or easier way on how to find the best spot to place an bass trap in a room. My room have a FR dip at 45Hz. No matter where I position the sub, always have dip in this freq. I think this is a room mode. That is very unfortunate. You could buy a TON of bass traps and not get rid of that dip. Resistive/velocity traps are most efficient 1/4 wavelength from the wall which is like 6.3ft! Maybe a tuned membrane trap (or 3 or 4) would help. Sure can't fix it with PEQ. I know it's likely to be inconvenient, but just to try .... one thought is to put the sub in the center of the width of the room and 25% of the length from the front wall. I have a huge peak at 40Hz in my room, but if I put a sub in the center of the width I get a 90Hz dip. So I'm thinking your situation may be reversed. |
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Post by jbrunwa on Feb 19, 2022 15:34:13 GMT -5
Raising subs can give some good results. Kind of like moving the sub farther from the wall, because I think it's just moving the starting point of the wave up which effectively moves where it interacts with the MLP. At the same time though it's also removing interaction with the floor. It's always something. I wish we could use something like that Flo-vis paint they use in Formula One, whereby we could visually see the effects of frequency waves. But I guess we do have something kinda close with REW's RTA when we also use Generator to see the live response. Also, you might want to try using vvvvery thick rock wool. I experimented with the usual 3-1/2" thick stuff and layered it up thicker and thicker, measuring in-between, and ended up two columns 14" thick x 24" wide x 6' tall, and placed them next to my Front L&R on the MLP side, so yes - they're very visible - but they tamed bass reflections/cancellations a lot. In the end, I'm making smaller versions using 24" x 48" x 7.5" thick rock wool (easier to work with). I'm making one that's over 6' tall, and two more just 2x4'. These help in the. bass region with reducing the nulls and reducing decay. I've done a lot of experiments placing lots of panels all over my room to find the best spots that help the most. Unfortunately, my room is not one that benefits as much by placing thick stuff in vertical corners and where walls meet floor. No. The best spots happen to be the most cumbersome visually. The absolute best result is when I have 15" thick by 4-6' tall but extend the panels to 4' wide, basically encroaching on the seating area. But we gotta pick our poison, so I compromise knowing things could be better, but I want the place to look nice, so . . . . Yes, room acoustics is very tricky. Just wondering is there a trick or easier way on how to find the best spot to place an bass trap in a room. My room have a FR dip at 45Hz. No matter where I position the sub, always have dip in this freq. I think this is a room mode. Most rooms have dips or nulls. If you look at the sides of the dip, what is the low and high frequency at say -6 dB? Remember that 40 to 80 Hz is only 1 octave, and often nulls affect only a few notes in an octave, so it might look bad on a graph but might not have much impact to your listening experience. |
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Post by foggy1956 on Feb 19, 2022 17:17:10 GMT -5
Yes, room acoustics is very tricky. Just wondering is there a trick or easier way on how to find the best spot to place an bass trap in a room. My room have a FR dip at 45Hz. No matter where I position the sub, always have dip in this freq. I think this is a room mode. Most rooms have dips or nulls. If you look at the sides of the dip, what is the low and high frequency at say -6 dB? Remember that 40 to 80 Hz is only 1 octave, and often nulls affect only a few notes in an octave, so it might look bad on a graph but might not have much impact to your listening experience. Guy named Ansat used to frequent this forum told me that any dip had to be at least 1/3 of an octive wide to be audible. |
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Post by donh50 on Feb 19, 2022 17:43:30 GMT -5
A room mode null is caused by sound from the speaker hitting a wall and reflecting back so it cancels the direct wave. EQ will not do anything for it; it is like having one wave A and it's reflection arriving out of phase so you get A - A = 0. If you try to boost the amplitude by say a factor of ten, then you get 10*A - 10*A = 0 -- still a null, but now you are dumping (wasting) a ton of power and out of the null the sound will be overpowering. The usual solutions are to (a) move the main listening position (MLP) out of the null, and/or (b) place a sub in the null to "drive" it so the sub cancels the null. Here is an online room mode calculator spreadsheet that has a nice visual presentation: www.harman.com/documents/Room%20Mode%20Calculator_0.xlsAnd here is Todd Welti's classic paper about optimizing in-room response using multiple subs: www.harman.com/documents/multsubs_0.pdfAndy C's multi-sub optimizer (MSO) program is a great thing to try if you have more than one sub and a miniDSP -- his program will generate filter coefficients for you. See it at www.andyc.diy-audio-engineering.org/mso/html/ and there is a long thread on AVS about it. HTH - Don |
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Post by fbczar on Feb 19, 2022 20:00:41 GMT -5
No problem. Yeah maybe I will avoid criss cross setup. Regarding midwall position I heard from gene of audioholics, it will give the smoothest FR but loss a lot of SPL. He always suggest corner location, so we get a few db boost because of in the corner and then just need to eq it. And I did some experiment with elevated the sub a few feet and it can do wonders with FR. Raising subs can give some good results. Kind of like moving the sub farther from the wall, because I think it's just moving the starting point of the wave up which effectively moves where it interacts with the MLP. At the same time though it's also removing interaction with the floor. It's always something. I wish we could use something like that Flo-vis paint they use in Formula One, whereby we could visually see the effects of frequency waves. But I guess we do have something kinda close with REW's RTA when we also use Generator to see the live response. Also, you might want to try using vvvvery thick rock wool. I experimented with the usual 3-1/2" thick stuff and layered it up thicker and thicker, measuring in-between, and ended up two columns 14" thick x 24" wide x 6' tall, and placed them next to my Front L&R on the MLP side, so yes - they're very visible - but they tamed bass reflections/cancellations a lot. In the end, I'm making smaller versions using 24" x 48" x 7.5" thick rock wool (easier to work with). I'm making one that's over 6' tall, and two more just 2x4'. These help in the. bass region with reducing the nulls and reducing decay. I've done a lot of experiments placing lots of panels all over my room to find the best spots that help the most. Unfortunately, my room is not one that benefits as much by placing thick stuff in vertical corners and where walls meet floor. No. The best spots happen to be the most cumbersome visually. The absolute best result is when I have 15" thick by 4-6' tall but extend the panels to 4' wide, basically encroaching on the seating area. But we gotta pick our poison, so I compromise knowing things could be better, but I want the place to look nice, so . . . . Have you ever worked with a stack of subs designed like these? hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/speaker/subwoofers/ken-kreisel-dxd-12012-dual-12-push-pull-subwoofer/ |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Feb 19, 2022 20:50:31 GMT -5
Yes, room acoustics is very tricky. Just wondering is there a trick or easier way on how to find the best spot to place an bass trap in a room. My room have a FR dip at 45Hz. No matter where I position the sub, always have dip in this freq. I think this is a room mode. I've been playing around with some things this week while making some new bass traps. Next week I'll be trying out an idea or two for just this, seeing if there's a trick for locating bass traps with less effort. |
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ttocs
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I always have a wonderful time, wherever I am, whomever I'm with. (Elwood P Dowd)
Posts: 8,162
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Post by ttocs on Feb 19, 2022 20:50:39 GMT -5
Nope. But these are very interesting! They remind me of subwoofer arrays I've read about, mainly for arenas and theaters, whereby subs are arranged in patterns to create specific dispersion patterns. A stack of three subs with top and bottom facing frontwards and the middle facing rearwards creates a cardioid pattern. This is useful for a stage where the sound engineer doesn't want to overload the musicians onstage with excess bass. The bass propagates out to the audience in a horizontal cardioid pattern. Something that's pointed out in some of the array layout articles I've read is that when subs are stacked vertically the sound is propagated horizontally. With subs lined up side by side they propagate the sound more vertically. So if placing subs on the floor, unless you want the sound to be squeezed width-wise, place them far enough apart so that they don't interact as an array.   The DXD-12012, according to the review, has very low distortion by way of its design. Not much to look at, but seems like a great performer, especially when quad-stacked!! Four stacks of four is only $50,000. Here's a single subwoofer animation.  |
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Post by fbczar on Feb 19, 2022 21:12:16 GMT -5
Nope. But these are very interesting! They remind me of subwoofer arrays I've read about, mainly for arenas and theaters, whereby subs are arranged in patterns to create specific dispersion patterns. A stack of three subs with top and bottom facing frontwards and the middle facing rearwards creates a cardioid pattern. This is useful for a stage where the sound engineer doesn't want to overload the musicians onstage with excess bass. The bass propagates out to the audience in a horizontal cardioid pattern. Something that's pointed out in some of the array layout articles I've read is that when subs are stacked vertically the sound is propagated horizontally. With subs lined up side by side they propagate the sound more vertically. So if placing subs on the floor, unless you want the sound to be squeezed width-wise, place them far enough apart so that they don't interact as an array. The DXD-12012, according to the review, has very low distortion by way of its design. Not much to look at, but seems like a great performer, especially when quad-stacked!! Four stacks of four is only $50,000.  I own two DXD 12012’s and wish I had two more so I could stack two sets! They are also impressive when not stacked. Very quick sounding and exceptional for music. I plan to use them with a pair of Magneplanar 3.7i’s. It should be interesting. In stacks of two, the subs are address room modes because of the height of the subs. I would imagine a stack of four would be eye opening. |
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Post by leonski on Feb 19, 2022 21:46:03 GMT -5
Nope. But these are very interesting! They remind me of subwoofer arrays I've read about, mainly for arenas and theaters, whereby subs are arranged in patterns to create specific dispersion patterns. A stack of three subs with top and bottom facing frontwards and the middle facing rearwards creates a cardioid pattern. This is useful for a stage where the sound engineer doesn't want to overload the musicians onstage with excess bass. The bass propagates out to the audience in a horizontal cardioid pattern. Something that's pointed out in some of the array layout articles I've read is that when subs are stacked vertically the sound is propagated horizontally. With subs lined up side by side they propagate the sound more vertically. So if placing subs on the floor, unless you want the sound to be squeezed width-wise, place them far enough apart so that they don't interact as an array. The DXD-12012, according to the review, has very low distortion by way of its design. Not much to look at, but seems like a great performer, especially when quad-stacked!! Four stacks of four is only $50,000. This may, and I can see how, work in a large space. But has problems in a normal room with ceiling height of even 10 feet... Room reflections will be in several 'modes'......Long way? Across the width? Up-Down? These are the 3 main 2-wall modes. Add a 3rd wall mode for fun and entertainment... Now? with stack-height approcing 6 feet? One tiny slip...and it'll happen given the whole stack is vibrating, and it's gonna come down.....OOOPS! What do you do with Downfiring drivers and rear ports? Whoever suggested Astronomical Cost was on to something. Even the HSU Research VTF2 mk5 is 600 and change EACH. This is a very capable sub and the least expensive they sell.......2x3 stacks? 3600$ and change than add for shipping....and TAX. The link? Shows a variation on ISOBARIC design.... Link I've added will be some history for those few who are interested.... audiojudgement.com/isobaric-subwoofer-box-design/ |
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Post by fbczar on Feb 19, 2022 22:04:57 GMT -5
Nope. But these are very interesting! They remind me of subwoofer arrays I've read about, mainly for arenas and theaters, whereby subs are arranged in patterns to create specific dispersion patterns. A stack of three subs with top and bottom facing frontwards and the middle facing rearwards creates a cardioid pattern. This is useful for a stage where the sound engineer doesn't want to overload the musicians onstage with excess bass. The bass propagates out to the audience in a horizontal cardioid pattern. Something that's pointed out in some of the array layout articles I've read is that when subs are stacked vertically the sound is propagated horizontally. With subs lined up side by side they propagate the sound more vertically. So if placing subs on the floor, unless you want the sound to be squeezed width-wise, place them far enough apart so that they don't interact as an array. The DXD-12012, according to the review, has very low distortion by way of its design. Not much to look at, but seems like a great performer, especially when quad-stacked!! Four stacks of four is only $50,000. This may, and I can see how, work in a large space. But has problems in a normal room with ceiling height of even 10 feet... Room reflections will be in several 'modes'......Long way? Across the width? Up-Down? These are the 3 main 2-wall modes. Add a 3rd wall mode for fun and entertainment... Now? with stack-height approcing 6 feet? One tiny slip...and it'll happen given the whole stack is vibrating, and it's gonna come down.....OOOPS! What do you do with Downfiring drivers and rear ports? Whoever suggested Astronomical Cost was on to something. Even the HSU Research VTF2 mk5 is 600 and change EACH. This is a very capable sub and the least expensive they sell.......2x3 stacks? 3600$ and change than add for shipping....and TAX. The link? Shows a variation on ISOBARIC design.... Link I've added will be some history for those few who are interested.... audiojudgement.com/isobaric-subwoofer-box-design/Fear not. The subs are bolted together, and they are inverted. The action of the woofers essentially eliminates vibration of the sub enclosures. The subs do not have ports. They are sealed. If you have time check the drawing in the article that shows how the drivers are oriented in a stack. The total height of a stack of four is 8 feet. |
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Post by leonski on Feb 19, 2022 22:14:43 GMT -5
Between COST and No Need, this is a non-starter for me. And at 8 feet? You must assemble standing UP since you can't 'swing' it up after horizontal assembly!
At least in a room of less than 10 feet.
IMO? A solution in search of a problem. Especially at what will end up to be an Astronomical Cost....
I don't see much actual informatin about the Holtmeyer design but DO note his bias to arean / large space where his
design, I suspect, actually has merit..
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Post by p4t on Feb 20, 2022 10:47:55 GMT -5
Yes, room acoustics is very tricky. Just wondering is there a trick or easier way on how to find the best spot to place an bass trap in a room. My room have a FR dip at 45Hz. No matter where I position the sub, always have dip in this freq. I think this is a room mode. That is very unfortunate. You could buy a TON of bass traps and not get rid of that dip. Resistive/velocity traps are most efficient 1/4 wavelength from the wall which is like 6.3ft! Maybe a tuned membrane trap (or 3 or 4) would help. Sure can't fix it with PEQ. I know it's likely to be inconvenient, but just to try .... one thought is to put the sub in the center of the width of the room and 25% of the length from the front wall. I have a huge peak at 40Hz in my room, but if I put a sub in the center of the width I get a 90Hz dip. So I'm thinking your situation may be reversed. I did try that, also does not make any significant different. I pretty much try every location in the room for sub position, but always have dip in 45Hz region. I think it might be cause the floor to ceiling reflection, as I do not have any absortion at all on the ceiling. |
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Post by p4t on Feb 20, 2022 10:52:10 GMT -5
Raising subs can give some good results. Kind of like moving the sub farther from the wall, because I think it's just moving the starting point of the wave up which effectively moves where it interacts with the MLP. At the same time though it's also removing interaction with the floor. It's always something. I wish we could use something like that Flo-vis paint they use in Formula One, whereby we could visually see the effects of frequency waves. But I guess we do have something kinda close with REW's RTA when we also use Generator to see the live response. Also, you might want to try using vvvvery thick rock wool. I experimented with the usual 3-1/2" thick stuff and layered it up thicker and thicker, measuring in-between, and ended up two columns 14" thick x 24" wide x 6' tall, and placed them next to my Front L&R on the MLP side, so yes - they're very visible - but they tamed bass reflections/cancellations a lot. In the end, I'm making smaller versions using 24" x 48" x 7.5" thick rock wool (easier to work with). I'm making one that's over 6' tall, and two more just 2x4'. These help in the. bass region with reducing the nulls and reducing decay. I've done a lot of experiments placing lots of panels all over my room to find the best spots that help the most. Unfortunately, my room is not one that benefits as much by placing thick stuff in vertical corners and where walls meet floor. No. The best spots happen to be the most cumbersome visually. The absolute best result is when I have 15" thick by 4-6' tall but extend the panels to 4' wide, basically encroaching on the seating area. But we gotta pick our poison, so I compromise knowing things could be better, but I want the place to look nice, so . . . . Have you ever worked with a stack of subs designed like these? hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/speaker/subwoofers/ken-kreisel-dxd-12012-dual-12-push-pull-subwoofer/This sub remind me when Ken Kreisel still in M&K. Once in 1997 I listened their top of the line sub backthen MX5000 and the sound just awesome. Now, their “design” is use by perlisten. And according the audioholics review, it is the most accurate subs they have tested so far. |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Feb 20, 2022 11:58:52 GMT -5
That is very unfortunate. You could buy a TON of bass traps and not get rid of that dip. Resistive/velocity traps are most efficient 1/4 wavelength from the wall which is like 6.3ft! Maybe a tuned membrane trap (or 3 or 4) would help. Sure can't fix it with PEQ. I know it's likely to be inconvenient, but just to try .... one thought is to put the sub in the center of the width of the room and 25% of the length from the front wall. I have a huge peak at 40Hz in my room, but if I put a sub in the center of the width I get a 90Hz dip. So I'm thinking your situation may be reversed. I did try that, also does not make any significant different. I pretty much try every location in the room for sub position, but always have dip in 45Hz region. I think it might be cause the floor to ceiling reflection, as I do not have any absortion at all on the ceiling. Walk around the room with a mic in your hand while playing a 45Hz tone with REW and watching the trace in REW's RTA. If you haven't done this, you might be surprised about what you see. I would try with all four subs, then one sub, then two, then move the third sub into a triangle config and measure three subs. All while seeing if 45Hz will raise up higher than now. Start at the MLP, then move the mic forward and back, then left and right of MLP. This will help to map in your mind where weak and strong spots are. You may find that the mic doesn't need to move very far. |
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Post by fbczar on Feb 20, 2022 23:07:20 GMT -5
This sub remind me when Ken Kreisel still in M&K. Once in 1997 I listened their top of the line sub backthen MX5000 and the sound just awesome. Now, their “design” is use by perlisten. And according the audioholics review, it is the most accurate subs they have tested so far. Home theater HiFi indicated the Kreisel’s were the most accurate, lowest distortion subs they had tested at the time of the review. They are exceptional with music and, for lack of a better term, they sound incredibly quick. I think they will be a good match with my new Magneplanar speakers. I did not know Perlisten used the same design. I must say Ken Kreisel is the most helpful person/manufacturer I have ever dealt with. I hope Emotiva comes through with Dirac’s bass control soon so I can maximize the DXD-12012’s. The best of all subwoofer world’s. |
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