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Post by novisnick on Aug 4, 2021 20:35:24 GMT -5
I’ve owned a Klipsch SW110 for I don’t remember how long and it blew a fuse for the first time. I opened it up and looked around, couldn’t find anything amiss. Replaced the fuse and closed it up. Plugged it in and turned it on to a disturbing sound and smoke! Opened it back up and couldn’t find the source at first but after turning the amp over I found the burn spot. I took a quick look around the net and only found used amp plates or subs all without any warranty. I’m now undecided as to try a used plate amp, a used sub, its been a really good product, or just purchase a new one. I really hadn’t anticipated a sub purchase. Its a big room but I don’t need to bring the house down, for that I’d go to system #1.  |
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ttocs
Global Moderator 
I always have a wonderful time, wherever I am, whomever I'm with. (Elwood P Dowd)
Posts: 8,171
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Post by ttocs on Aug 4, 2021 20:45:18 GMT -5
The SE12 seems like a pretty similar replacement spec wise, but in a 12" form factor.
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Post by sockemdog on Aug 4, 2021 23:45:46 GMT -5
I’ve owned a Klipsch SW110 for I don’t remember how long and it blew a fuse for the first time. I opened it up and looked around, couldn’t find anything amiss. Replaced the fuse and closed it up. Plugged it in and turned it on to a disturbing sound and smoke! Opened it back up and couldn’t find the source at first but after turning the amp over I found the burn spot. I took a quick look around the net and only found used amp plates or subs all without any warranty. I’m now undecided as to try a used plate amp, a used sub, its been a really good product, or just purchase a new one. I really hadn’t anticipated a sub purchase. Its a big room but I don’t need to bring the house down, for that I’d go to system #1. Connect the speaker driver wires to the plate speaker input posts and use an external amp. I’ve done that on two subs I have… Emotiva monoblocks of course! |
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Post by 405x5 on Aug 5, 2021 14:21:20 GMT -5
I’ve owned a Klipsch SW110 for I don’t remember how long and it blew a fuse for the first time. I opened it up and looked around, couldn’t find anything amiss. Replaced the fuse and closed it up. Plugged it in and turned it on to a disturbing sound and smoke! Opened it back up and couldn’t find the source at first but after turning the amp over I found the burn spot. I took a quick look around the net and only found used amp plates or subs all without any warranty. I’m now undecided as to try a used plate amp, a used sub, its been a really good product, or just purchase a new one. I really hadn’t anticipated a sub purchase. Its a big room but I don’t need to bring the house down, for that I’d go to system #1. Have you communicated yet with Klipsch customer service? It won’t take much to make the determination as to whether or not your sub. Is worth investing in a replacement plate. My own sub. is a VERY integrated system between the driver, the servo mechanism and the electronics on board the plate amp that control the servo. My advice is to proceed cautiously if contemplating an aftermarket fix. |
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Post by novisnick on Aug 6, 2021 0:46:09 GMT -5
I’ve owned a Klipsch SW110 for I don’t remember how long and it blew a fuse for the first time. I opened it up and looked around, couldn’t find anything amiss. Replaced the fuse and closed it up. Plugged it in and turned it on to a disturbing sound and smoke! Opened it back up and couldn’t find the source at first but after turning the amp over I found the burn spot. I took a quick look around the net and only found used amp plates or subs all without any warranty. I’m now undecided as to try a used plate amp, a used sub, its been a really good product, or just purchase a new one. I really hadn’t anticipated a sub purchase. Its a big room but I don’t need to bring the house down, for that I’d go to system #1. Connect the speaker driver wires to the plate speaker input posts and use an external amp. I’ve done that on two subs I have… Emotiva monoblocks of course! So I should bypass the plate amp and connect the sub driver directly to the input posts and drive with an external amp. How would I control the crossover? Via processor? I don’t have a spare amp with enough power to drive it I believe. I don’t think the Sherbourn 2/150 will be enough. Ill look up the wpc. The original plate amp was 200 watts. |
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Post by sockemdog on Aug 6, 2021 8:16:05 GMT -5
Connect the speaker driver wires to the plate speaker input posts and use an external amp. I’ve done that on two subs I have… Emotiva monoblocks of course! So I should bypass the plate amp and connect the sub driver directly to the input posts and drive with an external amp. How would I control the crossover? Via processor? I don’t have a spare amp with enough power to drive it I believe. I don’t think the Sherbourn 2/150 will be enough. Ill look up the wpc. The original plate amp was 200 watts. Yessir, that's what I did. Those input posts have a very high impedance hookup internal to the amp. So, it's ok to solder the wires from the speaker directly to the area where they solder to the board on the plate (or they might be easy to disconnect from the internals too). That Sherbourn would probably work fine considering you're giving it some high-current power... probably much higher than the plate amp. Maybe it could be bridged? Anyway, I have an old M&K sub hooked to an XPA-HC1 and an old Sunfire sub hooked to an XPA-100. I use the crossover from my processors to run them. Won't cost you much to try even if the Klipsch is putting some EQ on the sub itself. Be brave! You are our monoblock society monarch... Experiment   |
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KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 10,276
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Post by KeithL on Aug 6, 2021 9:10:22 GMT -5
Disconnect the plate amp from both AC power and the subwoofer driver itself.
You could try to re-route the wires from the driver directly to the input terminals. I would suggest disconnecting the inputs of the amp entirely (the amp's input should be quite a high impedance but it could still cause distortion in some instances).
If the high-level input binding posts are easily accessible you could wire the driver directly to them. Otherwise it would be easier to just mount a new pair of 5-way binding posts into the back of the sub and connect the driver directly to them.
Most home theater processors have bass management built in - so you have no need for a crossover in the sub.
Do remember, however, that SOME subs include things like limiting, and even EQ, in their built-in plate amp... So your sub may sound somewhat different without those.
Connect the speaker driver wires to the plate speaker input posts and use an external amp. I’ve done that on two subs I have… Emotiva monoblocks of course! So I should bypass the plate amp and connect the sub driver directly to the input posts and drive with an external amp. How would I control the crossover? Via processor? I don’t have a spare amp with enough power to drive it I believe. I don’t think the Sherbourn 2/150 will be enough. Ill look up the wpc. The original plate amp was 200 watts. |
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Post by novisnick on Aug 6, 2021 10:43:37 GMT -5
Can’t remember the last time I soldered something, I don’t believe I break anything! LOL  |
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Post by leonski on Aug 18, 2021 14:30:00 GMT -5
Novisnik? when it comes to soldering? ONLY one rule. 'the Bigger the Blob, the Better the job'........
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Post by 405x5 on Aug 18, 2021 16:40:41 GMT -5
Novisnik? when it comes to soldering? ONLY one rule. 'the Bigger the Blob, the Better the job'........ Seriously?? If that we’re REALLY true….most components would BLOW UP as soon as you hit the switch  |
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Post by monkumonku on Aug 18, 2021 17:26:10 GMT -5
Novisnik? when it comes to soldering? ONLY one rule. 'the Bigger the Blob, the Better the job'........ True words of wisdom. Just like amplifier watts, you can never have too much solder, either.  |
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Post by leonski on Aug 19, 2021 0:48:30 GMT -5
Novisnik? when it comes to soldering? ONLY one rule. 'the Bigger the Blob, the Better the job'........ Seriously?? If that we’re REALLY true….most components would BLOW UP as soon as you hit the switch View Attachment Sheesh, 405, you are such a maroon. |
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Post by 405x5 on Aug 19, 2021 16:17:51 GMT -5
Seriously?? If that we’re REALLY true….most components would BLOW UP as soon as you hit the switch View Attachment Sheesh, 405, you are such a maroon. Lol! I like that we can attack each other in spite of the moderators  |
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Post by DavidR on Aug 19, 2021 16:57:55 GMT -5
Soldering Rule #2: Heat the piece you're working on and NOT the solder. The work should be hot enough to melt the solder.
You don't need a big blob, just enough to hold the connection. If the solder flows then all should be good.
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Post by leonski on Aug 19, 2021 18:30:51 GMT -5
Sheesh, 405, you are such a maroon. Lol! I like that we can attack each other in spite of the moderators View AttachmentEntertainment is just a sideline for me...... |
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Post by Ex_Vintage on Aug 19, 2021 22:07:55 GMT -5
Back on the topic, why not just buy an appropriate plate amp. They are not expensive!
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Post by leonski on Aug 20, 2021 1:53:15 GMT -5
Back on the topic, why not just buy an appropriate plate amp. They are not expensive! Some people prefer to fix than replace. New 'plate' must fit hole and seal properly. The PLUS side of a new plate? Might get some control the original lacks. Maybe contiuous phase, rather than '0-180'. ? Crossover might go lower, if that helps? Power might not be an issue....You'd need 2x for a mere 3db increase... |
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Post by 405x5 on Aug 20, 2021 9:17:50 GMT -5
Back on the topic, why not just buy an appropriate plate amp. They are not expensive! Unfortunately that is not true in all cases. I have a long discontinued Velodyne HGS 18. It has a servo control that integrates with the plate amp. 1250/3000 watt that was specifically designed for the servo and the electronics for that are built into the amp. I had it replaced 10 years ago by Velodyne before they closed their doors. I did find a highly regarded company that’s become the go to for customers like myself looking to maintain the originality of the system |
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Post by leonski on Aug 20, 2021 13:58:23 GMT -5
Soldering Rule #2: Heat the piece you're working on and NOT the solder. The work should be hot enough to melt the solder. You don't need a big blob, just enough to hold the connection. If the solder flows then all should be good. David? Tongue firmly in cheek. I Thought I knew how to solder, and I had built stuff from kits.....UNTIL I was retaught several things by a Mil Spec rated guy. In the Mil Spe class? They'd even cut soldered joints apart so you could SEE the penetration and wetting. And look for voids / flux blobs. |
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Post by novisnick on Aug 20, 2021 21:45:30 GMT -5
Didn’t I post pictures of the Sherbourn amp? I can’t seem to find them on the Lounge.
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