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Post by PaulBe on Nov 22, 2022 21:31:04 GMT -5
Perfectly aware of the benefit of having HDMI pass trough and the shorter boot up time. My point is "no benefit compared to achieving this without this waste". Random google search, spec YAMAHA RX-V573_V473: Standby Power Consumption HDMI Control Off, Standby Through Off............................0.1 W or less HDMI Control On, Standby Through On (No Signals)...1.0 W (Typical) Network Standby On ................................................................2.0 W (Typical) So why again 35W for Emotiva? Makes me worried about this unanswered question regarding the 200W power supply in G4: "Q) A larger 200 Watt power supply is spec’d for the G4P, the current G3P draw about 38 Watts, how much wattage will the new G4P use at idle?"
No intention to gas light, just providing a counter balance to this dismissive "not a big deal" attitude from Emotiva. Lonnie said "If you choose to set the processor to low power standby, that is your choice". Do you understand the definition of 'choice'? There is nothing dismissive about it. No one forces us to use VRO. It's your choice. Just like no one forces Elites to travel every year to Climate Summits - traveling by private jet and yacht, flitting to and fro from their mansions, using more carbon than the places they go to, use in a whole year. They could do a virtual meeting, online. That would save a watt or two. Maybe a few terrawatts or more. Save some power for us peons, instead of us saving power for the elites. That would be counter balance - when the folks who cry the loudest practice what they preach. Funny how these elitist clowns fear monger about the oceans rising while they buy up all the ocean front property. Perhaps you could find some real perspective instead of begrudging your peers for using a dollar's worth of electricity every month. However, if you would like to find some cold rock to live under this winter, that's OK with me. It's your 'choice'. Some elitist will honor you and say "Eviroloon, I salute you", while he jets to some fancy private warm weather watering hole. Do you own a RMC? Do you use VRO? |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Nov 22, 2022 22:08:32 GMT -5
Perfectly aware of the benefit of having HDMI pass trough and the shorter boot up time. My point is "no benefit compared to achieving this without this waste". Random google search, spec YAMAHA RX-V573_V473: Standby Power Consumption HDMI Control Off, Standby Through Off............................0.1 W or less HDMI Control On, Standby Through On (No Signals)...1.0 W (Typical) Network Standby On ................................................................2.0 W (Typical) So why again 35W for Emotiva? Makes me worried about this unanswered question regarding the 200W power supply in G4: "Q) A larger 200 Watt power supply is spec’d for the G4P, the current G3P draw about 38 Watts, how much wattage will the new G4P use at idle?"
No intention to gas light, just providing a counter balance to this dismissive "not a big deal" attitude from Emotiva. Lonnie said "If you choose to set the processor to low power standby, that is your choice". Do you understand the definition of 'choice'? There is nothing dismissive about it. No one forces us to use VRO. It's your choice. Just like no one forces Elites to travel every year to Climate Summits - traveling by private jet and yacht, flitting to and fro from their mansions, using more carbon than the places they go to, use in a whole year. They could do a virtual meeting, online. That would save a watt or two. Maybe a few terrawatts or more. Save some power for us peons, instead of us saving power for the elites. That would be counter balance - when the folks who cry the loudest practice what they preach. Funny how these elitist clowns fear monger about the oceans rising while they buy up all the ocean front property. Perhaps you could find some real perspective instead of begrudging your peers for using a dollar's worth of electricity every month. However, if you would like to find some cold rock to live under this winter, that's OK with me. It's your 'choice'. Some elitist will honor you and say "Eviroloon, I salute you", while he jets to some fancy private warm weather watering hole. Do you own a RMC? Do you use VRO? He made a specific statement to a specific person, he did not state that others can’t make the choice to use VRO, he questioned the CTO ‘encouraging’ people to do it. If you have a different opinion state it without attacking the person you disagree with. |
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Post by PaulBe on Nov 22, 2022 22:21:07 GMT -5
Lonnie said "If you choose to set the processor to low power standby, that is your choice". Do you understand the definition of 'choice'? There is nothing dismissive about it. No one forces us to use VRO. It's your choice. Just like no one forces Elites to travel every year to Climate Summits - traveling by private jet and yacht, flitting to and fro from their mansions, using more carbon than the places they go to, use in a whole year. They could do a virtual meeting, online. That would save a watt or two. Maybe a few terrawatts or more. Save some power for us peons, instead of us saving power for the elites. That would be counter balance - when the folks who cry the loudest practice what they preach. Funny how these elitist clowns fear monger about the oceans rising while they buy up all the ocean front property. Perhaps you could find some real perspective instead of begrudging your peers for using a dollar's worth of electricity every month. However, if you would like to find some cold rock to live under this winter, that's OK with me. It's your 'choice'. Some elitist will honor you and say "Eviroloon, I salute you", while he jets to some fancy private warm weather watering hole. Do you own a RMC? Do you use VRO? He made a specific statement to a specific person, he did not state that others can’t make the choice to use VRO, he questioned the CTO ‘encouraging’ people to do it. If you have a different opinion state it without attacking the person you disagree with. Lonnie stated that people have a choice. He didn't 'encourage' a direction. Try reading his post again. BTW, you have quite an equipment list. Ya think you could save a watt or two... for me? |
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Post by AudioHTIT on Nov 23, 2022 0:15:26 GMT -5
I think I’ll follow ttocs lead and start my winter early, Happy Thanksgiving everyone 🦃 |
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cawgijoe
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Post by cawgijoe on Nov 23, 2022 8:39:34 GMT -5
All issues discussed in this thread aside, I find this attitude a bit concerning and it’s not the first time you express that. It’s not about the individuals power bill: if every company in consumer electronics had this attitude it would have enormous consequences globally…for absolutely zero benefit whatsoever as IMHO this is just an unnecessary engineering choice. What percentage of PC, PlayStation’s, TV etc consumes more than very low singe digit watt in standby vs your 35? This is ignoring the efforts of countless of people working against such pointless waste. Just a tiny pointer: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_Watt_Initiative"for absolutely zero benefit whatsoever" is not quite accurate. Lots of people us it to watch sources connected to the processor and be able to change sources and volume. It has a lot more benefits than your TV, Playstation or PC can provide while in standby which is essentially zero. That functionality doesn't come without a cost. And it also provides a much quicker start up time for when you want to use the processor with connected amps and speakers. Personally I never use VRO because I really don't mind the boot time and I have sources connected to the TV so I don't need that functionality. But lots of people use it and prefer it greatly to LPS. To them it's far from an "unnecessary engineering choice". Emotiva gives us a choice. Agree here. I have always used VRO. My sources all go through the XMC-2. I could probably become used to LPS, but I guarantee my wife and family when they are here would not. I'm willing to pay for this function because it's useful to me. It is a choice. EDIT: HAPPY THANKSGIVING to all on this wonderful forum! I appreciate you all. |
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Lonnie
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Post by Lonnie on Nov 23, 2022 9:01:53 GMT -5
If you choose to set the processor to low power standby, that is your choice, but honestly the processor does not draw enough juice in this mode to make any significant difference in your electric bill. Depending on where you live it is like a dollar a month. All issues discussed in this thread aside, I find this attitude a bit concerning and it’s not the first time you express that. It’s not about the individuals power bill: if every company in consumer electronics had this attitude it would have enormous consequences globally…for absolutely zero benefit whatsoever as IMHO this is just an unnecessary engineering choice. What percentage of PC, PlayStation’s, TV etc consumes more than very low singe digit watt in standby vs your 35? This is ignoring the efforts of countless of people working against such pointless waste. Just a tiny pointer: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_Watt_InitiativeLike so many other electronic companies on the market, we offer a choice of standby power settings. In low power standby the power consumed is less than 0.5 watts, which is mandated by most countries around the world. In this state, the only thing active in the unit is the front panel micro controller and the IR system. In video remains on, we keep the HDMI board active as you would expect, but we also have a portion of the DSP active. The reason for this is not all TVs can decode all audio formats. So we choose to keep the decoder active to accept any audio stream type and convert it to PCM which is something that every TV can accept. This also means that we have to keep a portion of the master controller active to manage what is going on. Where possible, we power down as much of the other circuits in the unit to save on energy consumption. Now we could simply keep the HDMI board active which would draw roughly 10 to 12 watts and pass the incoming audio stream straight through, but history has taught us that approach doesn't work for everyone and the goal is to make it work with as many different pieces of gear as possible. Now how this differs from a source like a gaming console, PC, cable box etc. is that when they power down, there is no reason for them to keep anything active, because they are the source, while we are a repeater. So there are reasons behind the choices that were made in how we handle lowest power standby and higher power standby, and I don't see them as zero benefit. For those who choose to run the processor in either mode, those individuals have their reasons and we are simply trying to accommodate their needs. Now in regards to the G4P with a 200 watt power supply. These units will actually have two power supplies. A very small off line switcher to run the front panel micro for lowest power standby and a larger off line switcher to run the processor itself. One of the reasons we choose to use an off line switcher is the efficiency of the power supply which is roughly 95 to 98%, vs. that of a transformer. The amount of power drawn from the supplies is directly proportional to what is needed. So while the supply has a capacity of 200 watts, if only 20 or 30 are needed, then it will only draw like 21 or 31 watts respectively. There are two main reasons for the increased power supply and the first is the new 8K HDMI board. There are four, 8K 4x2 switchers on the board and they are current hogs. To get the 48gig bandwidth they run at very low voltage but suck up a great deal of current. In total, the HDMI board will consume roughly 46 watts by itself. This is an unfortunate byproduct of higher bandwidth that we have no control over. The other part of the new units that use more energy is the main audio board. The new design uses very high performance DACs, that have individual VRef regulators on, as well as bipolar I to V converts. While this design topology gives us superior performance, it comes at a cost and that is power. It uses roughly 35 watts of power. Because the new boards use so much more energy to operate, we are taking extra steps in the design to be able to selectively shut down as much as possible when not being used. The goal is simply to use the least amount of energy when in video remains on as possible. I hope this helps to explain some of the reasons behind the design choices that we made. Lonnie |
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Post by rogerlons on Nov 23, 2022 11:38:03 GMT -5
Thanks, Lonnie. This is quite helpful and gives some insight into the design choices that need to be made. :-)
So far, I've been sitting on the sidelines with 3.1. I am still running 2.4 and given that I have few issues with my setup I am going to let 3.x work itself out.
Cheers,
Roger
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Post by Ninjician on Nov 23, 2022 16:48:41 GMT -5
This FW has broken my SHARC.
Will no longer grab onto Audio, and when it does it’s after 10 minutes of idle.
You’ve fully convinced me to sell my product and use the money that was allocated for the next-gen upgrade and just upgrade to another brand that actually tests their firmware before rolling out.
Unbelievable. I will not be recommending this brand to any of my clients henceforth. Good luck with everything, you’ll need it.
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Post by jdmusante on Nov 23, 2022 16:50:11 GMT -5
Happy Thanksgiving!
I sent this into Emotiva as well but I thought I'd post here too. Not sure if they are working on Friday.
I wanted to give the new firmware some time but its still giving me trouble since I installed this past past Saturday. I had been running the same firmware (2.4) that I've had on the unit since I received it last December. The issues I'm having were not present before I installed the new firmware. When I installed the firmware, the process was seamless. No issues.
My System:
RMC-1L (new HDMI board)
Apple TV 4K (2021)
Oppo UDP-205
Nintendo Switch (I rarely use this)
UltraRendu -> Oppo 205 -> Balanced inputs on the RMC-1L
Using Zeskit Maya 8K HDMI cables
Issues I’m having now (I use VRO) -
- Rethink HiFi on the right side of the display takes a long time to clear when I turn it on.
- After I perform a cold reboot it seems to work well until I turn it off. When I turn it back on again it becomes mostly unresponsive. I need to perform another cold reboot for it to work again.
- There are handshake issues with my Oppo where when I go to play a bluray, it can take up to a minute + for it to lock on. I ran a cold boot on this too and it did not help. It will eventually work, just takes what feels like forever.
Any advice or settings help anyone could offer would be great.
Jason
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Post by thecrusherk on Nov 23, 2022 16:50:25 GMT -5
How has Disney+ been working since the update? I think this is the primary one that still hoses up our system on occasion. I will update you after pushing it hard tonight and the next couple days streaming Star Wars content with the family. Catching up on some episodes we are behind on. It won't take long to know. Streaming Disney+ is better. Had only one incident so far where all sound dropped out. Video continued with no observed issue and no internet service disruption that I know or could have impacted. The stream just seemed to lose audio lock/sync. Restarting the stream was all that was required, pausing and resume play did not help. No need to intervene with the RMC-1L at all as previously required. Sorry for the late update life got in the way earlier this week! |
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Post by lanescott on Nov 23, 2022 16:51:01 GMT -5
After updating my RMC-1L to v3.1 firmware I am also having a similar problem with no sound, as stated below. I have a Sharc-V2 8k eARC Audio Processor/FLR Switch that acts much like an HDFurry VRROOM but is not as sophisticated and doesn’t cost as much. This enables me to plug all sources into my LG G2 to take advantage of 120 refresh rate from Xbox Series X while still getting the proper audio decoded in my 5.2.4 setup. I run one HDMI cable from Input 1 of RMC1 to the Sharc-V2, one HDMI cable from the eARC/ARC from the Sharc-V2 to the eARC input from the LG G2 (HDMI 2), and then have my Xbox Series X and Blu-ray Player connected to the TV Inputs (HDMI 1 & 3). With firmware v2.5, this setup worked great and even improved the stability of the RMC1. Before I had this device, I would constantly encounter audio dropouts with the RMC, when pausing the TV during a show or switching apps on my TV or Xbox, the audio would randomly drop out. I could sometimes fix the issue by selecting a different input on the RMC and then going back to the original but most of the time the only fix would be a hard restart by holding the power switch down for 7 seconds until the processor completely shut off. I would wait a good minute and then turn it back on and let it run through the whole startup cycle again. Doing so would restore the sound. After the Sharc-V2 was implemented, I very rarely ever lost audio. It would still happen every couple months but nothing like before when I would lose audio several times a week and have to do the restart. After installing v3.1 and following the directions to a tee, and keeping my setup as mentioned above the exact same, I was not getting ANY audio from my speakers. I re-checked everything, cables, settings, and re-downloaded the firmware and installed again and still no audio. Sound was not coming out but I did notice that the processor was changing or cycling through audio formats every couple of minutes. I would see TrueHD, then TrueHD 7.1, PCM 5.0, PCM 2.0, and PCM 0.0. With much frustration and having my TV on playing a video source watching the RMC cycle through audio formats with no sound and waiting for a call back from Emotiva customer support, the AUDIO RANDOMLY CAME ON AND STARTED WORKING in the proper audio atmos format. I turned my TV and Xbox off and on again while keeping the processor on and the sound continued to working. I then turned the processor off and on again and was right back to square one with no audio and the format changing every couple of minutes. I have found that if I leave the processor on with the tv and source playing, the audio will usually fix itself and randomly start playing between 30-60minutes. There was one day when I could not get the audio to work at all and had to revert to my TV speakers. I turned everything off for the night, went to work the next day and came home and turned everything on again and within 30-60min the processor started working. I talked to customer support and they said they had several people complaining about similar issues when using the HDFurry and would make a note of the problem and flag my account if they find a work around in the future but ultimately they did not have a fix unless I removed the Sharc-V2 and hooked everything into the processor. As of now, I turn my processor off every couple of days so it is not constantly on but when I do I have to roll the dice and see if the audio will eventually work or not for the day. Sorry to be long winded but if anyone has any recommendations or possible fixes please let me know. I had just noticed my mid tops were super low but front and rear heights were fine. What I did to fix it was factory reset. Ran the built in pink and they were back. Then re-saved my Dirac presets over from the PC. Manually set back up the rest of the settings and I'm back in action. Another note I was unable to get audio after the 3.1 firmware update from from the audio out of my VRROOM. My temp fix is somehow I am able to do audio out from VRROOM to input 8 of XMC 2. Then I have a HDMI going from input #2 of my LG C1 (ARC Port) going back to the arc audio output of the XMC 2. I have audio now when I select input 8 (but not ARC HDMI input) but if I remove the ARC cable from the TV to the XMC, I lose audio... lol wut The only way I could get audio other than the way listed above was to eliminate the VRROOM and plug my devices (Ps5, Shield, 820) directly into the inputs of the XMC. At that point I do not need the ARC cable between the TV and the XMC and audio works by selecting the appropriate input on the XMC. I want my 120 hz from my PC and PS5 via the VRROOM without the extra ARC cable. I didn't have to use on 2.5 everything worked fine. Pretty sure this is all a bug. Setup: LG C1 77" VRROOM for PS5, Shield, Pany 820 XMC 2 |
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Post by audiovideojunky on Nov 23, 2022 16:53:19 GMT -5
If you choose to set the processor to low power standby, that is your choice, but honestly the processor does not draw enough juice in this mode to make any significant difference in your electric bill. Depending on where you live it is like a dollar a month. All issues discussed in this thread aside, I find this attitude a bit concerning and it’s not the first time you express that. It’s not about the individuals power bill: if every company in consumer electronics had this attitude it would have enormous consequences globally…for absolutely zero benefit whatsoever as IMHO this is just an unnecessary engineering choice. What percentage of PC, PlayStation’s, TV etc consumes more than very low singe digit watt in standby vs your 35? This is ignoring the efforts of countless of people working against such pointless waste. Just a tiny pointer: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_Watt_InitiativeOkay, I should probably leave this alone, but I can't resist. I respect you for being energy conscious. Really. I try to recycle and conserve where I can too. However, harping at other RMC owners about saving a few watts in a WIKI dedicated to surround processors (which by definition require lots of high current amplifiers, etc.) is pretty hypocritical. It's like driving your sports car to a muscle car show and then harping about gas mileage. If you really are an RMC owner and are that environmentally conscious, you should consider trading out your equipment for components that are actually energy efficient. Check out these tiny components that are about the size of paperback novels. I'm actually serious - I own several, and they sound AMAZING. They are extremely efficient - the power supply and amplification are digital chips (made in Japan and Germany respectively). And they are even fully balanced! I use them in rooms where I don't want a big stack of equipment. The only downside to S.M.S.L is it's designed and manufactured in China. Ugh... This little DAC works nicely as a 2 channel pre-amp : SMSL SU-9 DACAnd this tiny amp is jaw dropping. It puts out power you'd have to hear to believe, and can run at very high volume without even getting warm: SMSL DA-9 Amp
Edit: I should also mention that the amp allows you to switch (via remote) between balanced, RCA, and Bluetooth inputs. So it can be used without a pre-amp. Pretty cool. I have to wonder if Emotiva has considered using these digital power supply or amplifier chips in any of their products? They are pretty fantastic! Happy Thanksgiving! |
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Lonnie
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Post by Lonnie on Nov 23, 2022 17:01:12 GMT -5
After updating my RMC-1L to v3.1 firmware I am also having a similar problem with no sound, as stated below. I have a Sharc-V2 8k eARC Audio Processor/FLR Switch that acts much like an HDFurry VRROOM but is not as sophisticated and doesn’t cost as much. This enables me to plug all sources into my LG G2 to take advantage of 120 refresh rate from Xbox Series X while still getting the proper audio decoded in my 5.2.4 setup. I run one HDMI cable from Input 1 of RMC1 to the Sharc-V2, one HDMI cable from the eARC/ARC from the Sharc-V2 to the eARC input from the LG G2 (HDMI 2), and then have my Xbox Series X and Blu-ray Player connected to the TV Inputs (HDMI 1 & 3). With firmware v2.5, this setup worked great and even improved the stability of the RMC1. Before I had this device, I would constantly encounter audio dropouts with the RMC, when pausing the TV during a show or switching apps on my TV or Xbox, the audio would randomly drop out. I could sometimes fix the issue by selecting a different input on the RMC and then going back to the original but most of the time the only fix would be a hard restart by holding the power switch down for 7 seconds until the processor completely shut off. I would wait a good minute and then turn it back on and let it run through the whole startup cycle again. Doing so would restore the sound. After the Sharc-V2 was implemented, I very rarely ever lost audio. It would still happen every couple months but nothing like before when I would lose audio several times a week and have to do the restart. After installing v3.1 and following the directions to a tee, and keeping my setup as mentioned above the exact same, I was not getting ANY audio from my speakers. I re-checked everything, cables, settings, and re-downloaded the firmware and installed again and still no audio. Sound was not coming out but I did notice that the processor was changing or cycling through audio formats every couple of minutes. I would see TrueHD, then TrueHD 7.1, PCM 5.0, PCM 2.0, and PCM 0.0. With much frustration and having my TV on playing a video source watching the RMC cycle through audio formats with no sound and waiting for a call back from Emotiva customer support, the AUDIO RANDOMLY CAME ON AND STARTED WORKING in the proper audio atmos format. I turned my TV and Xbox off and on again while keeping the processor on and the sound continued to working. I then turned the processor off and on again and was right back to square one with no audio and the format changing every couple of minutes. I have found that if I leave the processor on with the tv and source playing, the audio will usually fix itself and randomly start playing between 30-60minutes. There was one day when I could not get the audio to work at all and had to revert to my TV speakers. I turned everything off for the night, went to work the next day and came home and turned everything on again and within 30-60min the processor started working. I talked to customer support and they said they had several people complaining about similar issues when using the HDFurry and would make a note of the problem and flag my account if they find a work around in the future but ultimately they did not have a fix unless I removed the Sharc-V2 and hooked everything into the processor. As of now, I turn my processor off every couple of days so it is not constantly on but when I do I have to roll the dice and see if the audio will eventually work or not for the day. Sorry to be long winded but if anyone has any recommendations or possible fixes please let me know. I had just noticed my mid tops were super low but front and rear heights were fine. What I did to fix it was factory reset. Ran the built in pink and they were back. Then re-saved my Dirac presets over from the PC. Manually set back up the rest of the settings and I'm back in action. Another note I was unable to get audio after the 3.1 firmware update from from the audio out of my VRROOM. My temp fix is somehow I am able to do audio out from VRROOM to input 8 of XMC 2. Then I have a HDMI going from input #2 of my LG C1 (ARC Port) going back to the arc audio output of the XMC 2. I have audio now when I select input 8 (but not ARC HDMI input) but if I remove the ARC cable from the TV to the XMC, I lose audio... lol wut The only way I could get audio other than the way listed above was to eliminate the VRROOM and plug my devices (Ps5, Shield, 820) directly into the inputs of the XMC. At that point I do not need the ARC cable between the TV and the XMC and audio works by selecting the appropriate input on the XMC. I want my 120 hz from my PC and PS5 via the VRROOM without the extra ARC cable. I didn't have to use on 2.5 everything worked fine. Pretty sure this is all a bug. Setup: LG C1 77" VRROOM for PS5, Shield, Pany 820 XMC 2 We have seen a few reports like this and I am sorry for the issue. We are currently working on this and have ordered a couple of different "Boxes" like what you described for evaluation. Once they arrive, I believe we will be able to figure it out in short order. Again, I am sorry for the issue and wish I had a work-a-round or fix for you right now but I do not. What I can say is that we are digging in and we will figure this out. Lonnie |
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NicS
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Will the G4 upgrade help quell my RMC1-L frustrations...?
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Post by NicS on Nov 23, 2022 17:07:01 GMT -5
I think the VPL-VW325ES Getting a little "friends of Sony" discount. It's not much but it helps. This thing is decent spec but lacking set-up bells and whistles. Very nice. I pivoted. Going laser instead: VPL-XW5000ES Hot tip: Sony just did a price reduction and there might be some Black Friday deals too.... |
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Post by Ninjician on Nov 23, 2022 17:07:46 GMT -5
After updating my RMC-1L to v3.1 firmware I am also having a similar problem with no sound, as stated below. I have a Sharc-V2 8k eARC Audio Processor/FLR Switch that acts much like an HDFurry VRROOM but is not as sophisticated and doesn’t cost as much. This enables me to plug all sources into my LG G2 to take advantage of 120 refresh rate from Xbox Series X while still getting the proper audio decoded in my 5.2.4 setup. I run one HDMI cable from Input 1 of RMC1 to the Sharc-V2, one HDMI cable from the eARC/ARC from the Sharc-V2 to the eARC input from the LG G2 (HDMI 2), and then have my Xbox Series X and Blu-ray Player connected to the TV Inputs (HDMI 1 & 3). With firmware v2.5, this setup worked great and even improved the stability of the RMC1. Before I had this device, I would constantly encounter audio dropouts with the RMC, when pausing the TV during a show or switching apps on my TV or Xbox, the audio would randomly drop out. I could sometimes fix the issue by selecting a different input on the RMC and then going back to the original but most of the time the only fix would be a hard restart by holding the power switch down for 7 seconds until the processor completely shut off. I would wait a good minute and then turn it back on and let it run through the whole startup cycle again. Doing so would restore the sound. After the Sharc-V2 was implemented, I very rarely ever lost audio. It would still happen every couple months but nothing like before when I would lose audio several times a week and have to do the restart. After installing v3.1 and following the directions to a tee, and keeping my setup as mentioned above the exact same, I was not getting ANY audio from my speakers. I re-checked everything, cables, settings, and re-downloaded the firmware and installed again and still no audio. Sound was not coming out but I did notice that the processor was changing or cycling through audio formats every couple of minutes. I would see TrueHD, then TrueHD 7.1, PCM 5.0, PCM 2.0, and PCM 0.0. With much frustration and having my TV on playing a video source watching the RMC cycle through audio formats with no sound and waiting for a call back from Emotiva customer support, the AUDIO RANDOMLY CAME ON AND STARTED WORKING in the proper audio atmos format. I turned my TV and Xbox off and on again while keeping the processor on and the sound continued to working. I then turned the processor off and on again and was right back to square one with no audio and the format changing every couple of minutes. I have found that if I leave the processor on with the tv and source playing, the audio will usually fix itself and randomly start playing between 30-60minutes. There was one day when I could not get the audio to work at all and had to revert to my TV speakers. I turned everything off for the night, went to work the next day and came home and turned everything on again and within 30-60min the processor started working. I talked to customer support and they said they had several people complaining about similar issues when using the HDFurry and would make a note of the problem and flag my account if they find a work around in the future but ultimately they did not have a fix unless I removed the Sharc-V2 and hooked everything into the processor. As of now, I turn my processor off every couple of days so it is not constantly on but when I do I have to roll the dice and see if the audio will eventually work or not for the day. Sorry to be long winded but if anyone has any recommendations or possible fixes please let me know. We have seen a few reports like this and I am sorry for the issue. We are currently working on this and have ordered a couple of different "Boxes" like what you described for evaluation. Once they arrive, I believe we will be able to figure it out in short order. Again, I am sorry for the issue and wish I had a work-a-round or fix for you right now but I do not. What I can say is that we are digging in and we will figure this out. Lonnie How about you swap out my HDMI board instead? I only updated as eARC was promised via a Customer Support call I had with Brent, which would eliminate the need for the SHARC. Lo and behold it doesn’t work on all models, and I only upgraded about 1 year ago. EARC has been working with other brands for a very long time, Denon being one of them. I am clueless to why this wasn’t a standard for these models. |
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Post by Ninjician on Nov 23, 2022 17:14:28 GMT -5
I pivoted. Going laser instead: VPL-XW5000ES Hot tip: Sony just did a price reduction and there might be some Black Friday deals too.... We professionally calibrated a 5000ES a couple weeks back for a post client in Huntington Beach. Fantastic image, and very bright! |
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Post by ElectricKoolAid on Nov 23, 2022 17:21:38 GMT -5
I pivoted. Going laser instead: VPL-XW5000ES Hot tip: Sony just did a price reduction and there might be some Black Friday deals too.... I know this isn't necessarily the time or place to debate projectors but I would highly consider checking out some of JVC's offerings. Maybe you already have considered them, if not, the contrast on the JVCs is top notch and the colors are great. I recently purchased a used JVC RS440 and it's been amazing. Obviously the downside is it's bulb based and not laser, if you can afford the new laser offerings from JVC then that's awesome, I certainly cannot. Or you could always pick up the previous model or the newer JVC NP5 I believe it's called? It's bulb based as well but has all the new features. Anyway, I'll leave it at that but just throwing it out there. |
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NicS
Sensei
Will the G4 upgrade help quell my RMC1-L frustrations...?
Posts: 241
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Post by NicS on Nov 23, 2022 18:54:16 GMT -5
I pivoted. Going laser instead: VPL-XW5000ES Hot tip: Sony just did a price reduction and there might be some Black Friday deals too.... I know this isn't necessarily the time or place to debate projectors but I would highly consider checking out some of JVC's offerings. Maybe you already have considered them, if not, the contrast on the JVCs is top notch and the colors are great. I recently purchased a used JVC RS440 and it's been amazing. Obviously the downside is it's bulb based and not laser, if you can afford the new laser offerings from JVC then that's awesome, I certainly cannot. Or you could always pick up the previous model or the newer JVC NP5 I believe it's called? It's bulb based as well but has all the new features. Anyway, I'll leave it at that but just throwing it out there. I did. A friend got the JVC. Looks amazing. Better than what I'm getting probably. Just too pricey for me. This new laser projector from Sony has no bells or whistles. Setup in manual and unmotorized but it has the same basic engine as the ore expensive projectors, minus the lumen output. It hits a few sweet spots for me: a) the price b) it's laser not bulb c) it's 2000 lumens at 24db of noise, which is fab, since I need 1300 lumens to hit 12FL at 17 feet. d) the price, an finally.... e) the price. And that buying it is possible to justify with "she who must be adored". And given that I spend quite a bit of my day looking at a $50K 31" ,000 NT 4K grading monitor you could fry an egg on top of, this is an acceptable compromise. |
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Post by cwmcobra on Nov 23, 2022 19:01:26 GMT -5
I pivoted. Going laser instead: VPL-XW5000ES Hot tip: Sony just did a price reduction and there might be some Black Friday deals too.... Good move. I love the laser in my JVC! |
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Post by KimbaWLion on Nov 23, 2022 19:08:43 GMT -5
Well I finally sent in my old receiver that was laying around for the RMC-1. Can I safely assume that when I receive it will already be FW 3.1? Seeing some one with no ARC on their LG C9 is kind of concerning, but the dice have been rolled. Given the time it took to get this firmware out makes me hope that the next one will be a lot sooner. I am really hopeful I will have almost no issues getting things set up and running, from what I have been reading here that is 50/50 at BEST... I am a once and done sort of guy. I can only hope for a few things. 1. For my needs, everything works after taking the time to set things up. 2. Should I have issues they are minor in nature 3. Should the issues be minor hopefully these issues will be fixed with an 3.XX version of firmware shortly since it took so long to get 3.XX out... Here's hoping, or as some where would say I live in a dream land.. It will have FW 3.1. While it's great to do research ahead of time don't get hung up on what you see on the forum. Honestly, Ignore most of the stuff in this thread and older archived versions of this thread unless you find yourself with an actual issue once you have the system up and running. I would say by and large this thread doesn't represent the larger population of owners. That doesn’t mean people haven’t hit issues in their setup but the forum often is the place people go when something is wrong over when it’s all just humming away. I've had an RMC-1 since its been available. I've had one major issue where my unit was replaced in less than a week due to a hardware fault and one or two other minor issues along the way in the last 5 years. I've converted a few neighbors and friends to Emotiva gear. Their biggest complaints on the RMC series are almost all around the performance of the UI or pops when changing sources (I've never had that problem on any firmware release.) Beyond a mystery backup problem that went away with a new usb stick after the 3.1 update everything appears to be working fine for me. I have the older HDMI board and I am using it with an Apple Tv 4k (Gen2), a Google Tv (Over Arc) ((Ack I hate Arc and CEC in general, maybe when vendors can agree on a standard implementation it won't be a trash pile.)), a Shield, a UHD 4k Blu-ray player. No problems with my center channel, heights, top middles, or subs. No problems with my Blu-ray player but I send audio only down a second HDMI link to the RMC for that. As far as the "Updating Fonts" bit, I don't particularly care much. There was a time when it was seemingly better to use lowest power mode. I guess time will tell if VRO is in better shape after the changes made to the HDMI switching and control code. I am one of those people that tends to over think everything, and those who really had a bad time are very vocal for very good reasons. Even the owner of PS Audio has very good things to say about Emotiva Multichannel Amps and even the pre-pros so I take that in too. I did this hoping the good outweighs the bad as the price of other gear that does what the RMC-1 does is cost prohibitive for me. I mean some one will always have more and as well as better, I just want the best for what I can get so I can be happy. I mean I haven't changed my speakers since around 1990! Change is rare to me and I like that. I just want to enjoy what I have no more and no less as I have owned a lot of gear over the decades and finally learned to stop chasing the best. |
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