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Post by wizardofoz on Sept 7, 2011 10:39:23 GMT -5
I'm from Asia running on 240 V and still waiting for Emo to convert to Europe voltage so I can buy the Ultra sub. David...why you sell off the old subs then??? Anyway... when doing the Euro/Asia voltage thing be warned NOT ALL emo gear is AUTO... like the ERC-1 is NOT AUTO select and ships as 120V selected by default...its not all plug and play...be safe and check... |
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Post by Nemesis.ie on Sept 7, 2011 10:40:26 GMT -5
The X-ref subs support Euro voltage (via a switch).
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Post by freehighway on Sept 9, 2011 3:23:39 GMT -5
Hi Nemesis,
Let me clarify...
I use the adapter only for the LCD TV as it only accepts 110V.
For the emo gears... they go directly to the 220V socket.
;-)
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Post by Nemesis.ie on Sept 9, 2011 5:57:00 GMT -5
Perfect.  |
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Post by mervynaugustine on Mar 19, 2013 6:16:11 GMT -5
Wonder if the CM-6 works for 220V.
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Post by garbulky on Mar 19, 2013 6:21:16 GMT -5
I used a hefty 750 VA step up power device when I went from 110 V to 220 V. Works like a charm for a 110 V DVD player which is connected to a 220V tv. Also worked with 110V speaker systems. However the power supply on the step up device did hum and vibrate slightly and they arent cheap usually at least $140
Dont use a shaving adapter if that's what you are thinking ;D
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Post by Nemesis.ie on Mar 19, 2013 9:00:08 GMT -5
Wonder if the CM-6 works for 220V. Apparently not, there was supposed to be a 230v version in the works but no news on it that I recall seeing.  |
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Post by megash0n on Jun 17, 2020 9:46:03 GMT -5
Drumming up an old thread. I'm in the US. I have a 220V circuit in my closet I'm not using and want to tie into the breaker box in the closet to feed my Behringer amps and 2 XPA amps. Is there anything specific I need to know or do other than typical wiring for common 220V appliances? Obviously, I'd prefer not to mess up my amps if they need to be wired a different way. If needed, I'm happy to make custom power cables. I forget exactly how 220 is wired, but Google will help there. I'm more so asking if the Emotiva amps need anything different than "standard".
Thanks in advance!
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Post by JKCashin on Jun 17, 2020 19:51:46 GMT -5
220V in US is two hot 110V connectors; in europe it's one hot 220V and a neutral... not sure how grounding would work... I am thinking of doing same but need to do more research here's the other thread |
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ttocs
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Post by ttocs on Jun 17, 2020 20:34:11 GMT -5
Please be very, very careful here. Like JKCashin said, in EU one wire carries 220V, in the USA one wire carries 120V. And unlike what was stated earlier in this thread, 220 in the USA does indeed need a Neutral. Further, 4 wires in total are required by current code: 2 Hots, 1 Neutral, 1 Ground. It's for appliances, not plug-in components. Please consult an electrician. Think about all the items in a household that is 220V in the USA, and all of them are major appliances. Now here's a twist. Take a peak at the D'Agostino Relentless amp. It can be wired for normal plug-in 20A usage, or wired for 30A usage using the bolts on the amp for direct connection. The 30A version is the only way to get the 6000 watt output. Here is a photo of how a 220V appliance is wired in the USA:  |
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Logan
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Post by Logan on Jul 28, 2020 11:01:57 GMT -5
I have both the XPR-1 1000W Monoblocks and XPA-2 Stereo version Amp. Let me ASSURE you, 220V power makes these amps come alive!
You'll be shocked if you have a good image now; bass will crisp and distortion goes away; articulation improves dramatically; airiness and softness of music becomes evident! I was SHOCKED at the improvement with the XPA-2; most likely because the amp was straining more to keep up. 220V essentially doubles your TRANSFORMER output which helps with keeping the Capacitors fully charged. It's when power supply can't keep up that distortion and edginess happen.
Take any 220 (double breaker) that's free in your panel (I had one for a drier that I converted to gas). Install a #12-3 cable (3 conductors and bare ground) and you'll be able to install a double 220 Outlet plus a 110V outlet in a double (renovation) box. I went the next step and used a #10-4 (all 4 conductors insulated so ground insulated too); the larger the cable the lower the resistance. 220V cuts the resistance in 1/2 on any conductor.
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Post by 405x5 on Jul 28, 2020 13:16:57 GMT -5
Use whatever’s available.
There are no improved sound goals to be had by making a choice regardless of what people claim to hear.
Bill
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Logan
Minor Hero
Posts: 24
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Post by Logan on Jul 28, 2020 13:27:30 GMT -5
Bill, I respectfully DISAGREE. Read my recent post on my XPA-2 experience. It was Night & Day! And, I have an audiophile buddy who I'll call Dr Moneybags. His investment is much higher than mine and he has the KEF Blade Speakers that retail over $30K. I trust his ears and he was shocked at the improvement. I spoke today with EMOTIVA's Lonny (CTO Chief Technology Officer; so read-expert) who confirmed that connecting their AMPS to 220V essentially doubles the effective TRANSFORMER size which aids immensely at keeping the CAPACITORS fully charged (read NO STRAIN or distortion).
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Post by 405x5 on Jul 28, 2020 14:39:54 GMT -5
Bill, I respectfully DISAGREE. Read my recent post on my XPA-2 experience. It was Night & Day! And, I have an audiophile buddy who I'll call Dr Moneybags. His investment is much higher than mine and he has the KEF Blade Speakers that retail over $30K. I trust his ears and he was shocked at the improvement. I spoke today with EMOTIVA's Lonny (CTO Chief Technology Officer; so read-expert) who confirmed that connecting their AMPS to 220V essentially doubles the effective TRANSFORMER size which aids immensely at keeping the CAPACITORS fully charged (read NO STRAIN or distortion). I read it |
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Logan
Minor Hero
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Post by Logan on Aug 8, 2020 18:06:18 GMT -5
Drumming up an old thread. I'm in the US. I have a 220V circuit in my closet I'm not using and want to tie into the breaker box in the closet to feed my Behringer amps and 2 XPA amps. Is there anything specific I need to know or do other than typical wiring for common 220V appliances? Obviously, I'd prefer not to mess up my amps if they need to be wired a different way. If needed, I'm happy to make custom power cables. I forget exactly how 220 is wired, but Google will help there. I'm more so asking if the Emotiva amps need anything different than "standard". Thanks in advance! Using 220V is not difficult and your XPA amps will love it. They're auto-switching so no worries there. just cut off the 110 plug and apply the 220V plug. Should have black, white and ground. Black & white to hot plugs. I've done this and the bass response and airiness will significantly improve if you have good speakers/good room. Just moved my sound room to the basement rec room and added a 220 circuit using #10, 4 conductor cable.. You don't need neutral for 220 but if you want 110 in the same box (I have 2 outlets 220 and 2 outlets of 20A 110 in the double wide box). Connect neutral and either HOT to the 110. Check with a volt meter when done is always a good idea. |
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Post by megash0n on Aug 8, 2020 18:50:24 GMT -5
Drumming up an old thread. I'm in the US. I have a 220V circuit in my closet I'm not using and want to tie into the breaker box in the closet to feed my Behringer amps and 2 XPA amps. Is there anything specific I need to know or do other than typical wiring for common 220V appliances? Obviously, I'd prefer not to mess up my amps if they need to be wired a different way. If needed, I'm happy to make custom power cables. I forget exactly how 220 is wired, but Google will help there. I'm more so asking if the Emotiva amps need anything different than "standard". Thanks in advance! Using 220V is not difficult and your XPA amps will love it. They're auto-switching so no worries there. just cut off the 110 plug and apply the 220V plug. Should have black, white and ground. Black & white to hot plugs. I've done this and the bass response and airiness will significantly improve if you have good speakers/good room. Just moved my sound room to the basement rec room and added a 220 circuit using #10, 4 conductor cable.. You don't need neutral for 220 but if you want 110 in the same box (I have 2 outlets 220 and 2 outlets of 20A 110 in the double wide box). Connect neutral and either HOT to the 110. Check with a volt meter when done is always a good idea. Thanks. I haven't done anything yet with that circuit, but it is a dedicated run that feeds my shower steamer which I'm not currently using. I've gotta tap into it and run it up into the attic and down to my gear. I'll do it at some point. |
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Post by audiosyndrome on Aug 9, 2020 11:54:21 GMT -5
I have both the XPR-1 1000W Monoblocks and XPA-2 Stereo version Amp. Let me ASSURE you, 220V power makes these amps come alive! You'll be shocked if you have a good image now; bass will crisp and distortion goes away; articulation improves dramatically; airiness and softness of music becomes evident! I was SHOCKED at the improvement with the XPA-2; most likely because the amp was straining more to keep up. 220V essentially doubles your TRANSFORMER output which helps with keeping the Capacitors fully charged. It's when power supply can't keep up that distortion and edginess happen. Take any 220 (double breaker) that's free in your panel (I had one for a drier that I converted to gas). Install a #12-3 cable (3 conductors and bare ground) and you'll be able to install a double 220 Outlet plus a 110V outlet in a double (renovation) box. I went the next step and used a #10-4 (all 4 conductors insulated so ground insulated too); the larger the cable the lower the resistance. 220V cuts the resistance in 1/2 on any conductor. Hi Logan - I have to agree with Bill; going to 220 versus 110 will do nothing to improve audio quality unless the panel is a very significant difference (100 feet or so) from the load. The only advantage to 220 is half the current, so half the voltage drop in a very long feed. Emotiva amps auto sense the line voltage and automatically connect the correct primary winding in the transformer. Regardless then, 220 or 110, the secondary side sees the EXACT same voltage, not "double". You misunderstood Lonnie. Russ |
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Post by gunslingerfin on Sept 17, 2024 5:44:27 GMT -5
Sorry for resurrecting old thread, but this kind of relates to this topic. Is there a "correct" way to plug in the power cord in EU area, where plugs are reversible?
I keep reading that I should have all my gear in same phase (L, N) to minimize loop issues. My new Supra power distribution block has N and L marked next to the sockets, and for example my SVS sub power cord has N and L marked on the cord itself. I tried to look for this info at my owners manuals (XMC-2, XPA-11) and tried to look for the info at this forum, but could not find anything.
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ttocs
Global Moderator
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Posts: 8,145
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Post by ttocs on Sept 17, 2024 7:43:50 GMT -5
Sorry for resurrecting old thread, but this kind of relates to this topic. Is there a "correct" way to plug in the power cord in EU area, where plugs are reversible? I keep reading that I should have all my gear in same phase (L, N) to minimize loop issues. My new Supra power distribution block has N and L marked next to the sockets, and for example my SVS sub power cord has N and L marked on the cord itself. I tried to look for this info at my owners manuals (XMC-2, XPA-11) and tried to look for the info at this forum, but could not find anything. The Load and Neutral on IEC plugs in the USA are wired one way. Many IEC plugs show L and N on them. When in doubt, open the top of the processor or amp and look at the color of the wires. White is always Neutral, Black is Load, Green is always Ground. Using a multimeter you may determine the continuity between the ends of the cable to trace which is which. |
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Post by gunslingerfin on Sept 17, 2024 8:44:56 GMT -5
Before opening the top of my devices, I pulled a picture from Google (this is RMC-1, but I'd guess XMC-2 has similar color scheme) and the wires seem to be all red   |
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