|
Post by garbulky on May 2, 2024 10:47:20 GMT -5
Alas - The Roon forum says that I can't use the USB socket of the Roku Ultra for audio output - it's for external HDD connection only. The next least expensive option is to buy a "Camera Adapter" for my iPhone. The camera adapter offers a USB-C socket (for power supply) and a USB-A socket. If I plug the Dragonfly into the USB-A socket of the Apple Camera Adapter, I can still use the iPad for Roon Remote, and the Roon core should recognize the Dragonfly through the iPhone. You don't want to do that...so cumbersome
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on May 2, 2024 11:31:27 GMT -5
You don't want to do that...so cumbersome You may be right. Maybe Harman International will expedite the delivery of my Roon Nucleus One in hopes of a review...
|
|
|
Post by leonski on May 2, 2024 13:37:25 GMT -5
I’ve spent the evening creating (and organizing) speaker wires, interconnects, power cords, and wall warts. My butt and knees are sore, and I’ve got sore eyes from squinting at poorly-labeled back panels of components. Hence, my proposals for "the Boomzilla Equipment Rack:" * Switched LEDs both above and below back-panel connections so that users wouldn’t have to read tiny, tiny text on a back panel that is shaded by the equipment shelves and mostly obscured by wires in the way. Otherwise, users have to hold a flashlight in one hand, hold wiring aside with one hand, and make connections with one hand while supporting the front of the component with one hand to prevent movement while making connections! * Power connections pre-wired into the rack to allow power (including space for wall-warts) to be distributed throughout the equipment rack. Perhaps the AC supplies could even be inside the structural steel members of the rack to avoid hum pickup. * Short, IEC-terminated power cables in a variety of lengths, colors, and AWG ratings so that the last few inches of power connection from the rack to the components would be neat and simple * Signal cable routing designed to avoid hum pickup from the power system * Interconnects should be offered in a variety of lengths and colors, both single-ended or balanced, and the rack documentation should provide a chart suggesting correct interconnect lengths from any rack location to any other. * Easily-modifiable structural changes for different equipment heights and depths * Economically expandable for future growth * Quick-change swapping between mounting for 19-inch “pro” equipment and consumer products * Optional, automatic, temperature-activated ventilation fans controlled by magnetic or stick-on sensors * Modular sections of the rack could be changed from carpet-piercing spikes (for the turntable section, for example) to soft rollers that wouldn't mar hard floors * Speaker cable wiring should be secured so that the wires aren't prone to being run over by the casters or pulled apart when the rack is moved * There should be ways to secure connecting wiring to and from external sources (wires to the television, cable-service wires to the rack, Ethernet connections from other parts of the house, routers/modems, etc.) I’d buy an equipment rack like that!PS: I'm sure that KeithL and others will quickly tell me that most users wouldn't care about many of the features I request. I agree with that observation, but still think that some of the options would be applicable to all. The other objection that I expect is that of cost. In reply, may I suggest that you actually LOOK at the current prices of most "audio stands" that offer none of the features suggested above. Would it really cost that much to offer the features I suggest? And finally, it would seem that at least SOME of the features I suggest (switched LEDs at the top and bottom of the back of the rack) could be retrofitted to existing stands. And of course - your needs aren't my needs. If none of the features I suggest appeal to you, then you've got LOTS of stand choices currently available, and at a wide selection of prices. Cordially - Glenn SOUNDS like what you wish for a is a Fully Custom FLEXI RACK...... www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/flexye.htmlThis is one of many such builds. Limited only by YOUR imagination and willingness to learn and 'make it yours'...... If I had the money? The ALL THREAD posts would be ACME thread. This is the Square Thread, not 'pointed' and is used in situations requiring high strength. I'd also consider BRASS all thread......
|
|
|
Post by leonski on May 2, 2024 15:09:57 GMT -5
Example? Each level of such a rack could have Anything at all for shelves. Corian? Or a CLD 'lamination' of anything you wish. Use your imagination here. Me? Very thin plywood (VOID FREE) on the 'top'. A layer of dense silicon rubber....1/8" or 3mm or 4mm for you metric fans. I've got some shelves made from HDF....High Density Fiberboard. Amost looks like it was made from SAWDUST.....it's that fine. A full- dimension 4'x8'x1" sheet is nearly too much for a single person to lift. And it barely floats. I tested a small cut-off and it floats almost entirely subjerged....even with the water surfact.
You could make 'spaced butcher block' for ventilation......
Noodle thru what you want and the priorities. Spikes V Rollers is EASY. If you want the 'easy' shelf? Buy some Boos Block cutting boards....https://butcherblockco.com/john-boos?gad_source=1
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on May 2, 2024 20:59:10 GMT -5
Hi leonski - My existing rack is modular with wooden shelves (probably fiber board with a vinyl wrap). The uprights screw together. Even though I could do better with a DIY, I think that I can modify what I have to meet my needs. Why? None of my components are excessively heavy (No McIntosh) and none of my components generate any significant heat (My Fosi tube buffer excepted, but being a line-level device, it has but two small tubes and doesn't generate much heat). As to getting music from the computer room to the living room, unless the Roku works (and I've been told it won't), my next best option until my Roon Nucleus One arrives, is to add a Lightning to USB adapter to my iPhone and let the Roon core feed the phone via WiFi. Is this an optimal solution? No, it isn't. But it will work for a month and a half until Roon ships that new Nucleus.
|
|
KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 9,992
|
Post by KeithL on May 3, 2024 11:05:20 GMT -5
That actually sounds cool... but I would point out that a lot of that stuff is actually "available"... although not al "part of the rack per-se". (Just for fun... my responses.) * Switched LEDs both above and below back-panel connections so that users wouldn’t have to read tiny, tiny text on a back panel that is shaded by the equipment shelves and mostly obscured by wires in the way. Otherwise, users have to hold a flashlight in one hand, hold wiring aside with one hand, and make connections with one hand while supporting the front of the component with one hand to prevent movement while making connections! I DO NOT like this idea... you would need too many little LED lights, in too many places, which would mean too much extra wiring, too much to go wrong, and possible noise issues with LED drivers. I would suggest one of those little COB LED flashlights with the magnetic base... or one of those "headband flashlights". www.amazon.com/Resistant-Hands-Free-Accessory-Emergency-Equipment/dp/B0776MN73W* Power connections pre-wired into the rack to allow power (including space for wall-warts) to be distributed throughout the equipment rack. Perhaps the AC supplies could even be inside the structural steel members of the rack to avoid hum pickup. I believe some racks already have this. You can also get long all-metal power strips with outlets at intervals along them. They're intended for work bench mounting but can be mounted vertically along the edge members of racks.* Short, IEC-terminated power cables in a variety of lengths, colors, and AWG ratings so that the last few inches of power connection from the rack to the components would be neat and simple You definitely can get IEC power cords in all sorts of lengths and configurations.* Signal cable routing designed to avoid hum pickup from the power system I'm not sure if I've seen any racks with what I would consider "good audio cable routing" built in. But you definitely can make sure to do things like run AC cables in one corner and signal cables in the other. Unfortunately individual pieces of equipment don't always cooperate... For example it would be nice if ALL audio gear had power cables on the back left corner and low level audio inputs on the opposite side of the rear panel. (Maybe someday all audio signals will be handled digitally and we won't have to worry about noise any more.)* Interconnects should be offered in a variety of lengths and colors, both single-ended or balanced, and the rack documentation should provide a chart suggesting correct interconnect lengths from any rack location to any other. You most definitely can buy custom interconnects... made to order... or make your own.* Easily-modifiable structural changes for different equipment heights and depths THAT is sort of what "standard 19" racks" are intended to cover. The width is standard, pretty much all "rack mount gear" fits a 19" rack, and other gear can be sat on a standard 19" shelf. The depth really doesn't matter as long as the rack is deeper than the deepest piece of equipment you have. (And standard commercial 19" racks are quite deep.)
* Economically expandable for future growth THAT sort of depends on your definitions. In the good old days, if you filled up a rack, you sat another one next to it, so your racks were infinitely expandable (more or less).* Quick-change swapping between mounting for 19-inch “pro” equipment and consumer products From my experience pretty well all gear that supports "rack mounting" fits a standard 19" rack. And most consumer gear that doesn't do so will fit on a shelf that then will fit on a standard 19" rack. * Optional, automatic, temperature-activated ventilation fans controlled by magnetic or stick-on sensors I do not like the idea of magnetic or stick on sensors. Many components don't have cabinets that a magnet will stick to. Stick on sensors would tend to be messy... and, either you use permanent adhesive, or risk the sensor falling off eventually or when the cabinet gets warm. (And that could be a fatal problem if it causes something to overheat because its sensor was laying on the bottom of the cabinet.) I would much rather see a fan system that always runs at a very quiet low speed. You can then sense the temperature of the air flowing through the fan and adjust the speed appropriately. (If you want to fantasize you could imagine a standard data format whereby each component could "request cooling" through a control system.)
* Modular sections of the rack could be changed from carpet-piercing spikes (for the turntable section, for example) to soft rollers that wouldn't mar hard floors THAT doesn't really make sense. You cannot have some parts of the same rack roll around while others are spiked to the floor. You are actually talking about separate racks that just sit together.* Speaker cable wiring should be secured so that the wires aren't prone to being run over by the casters or pulled apart when the rack is moved * There should be ways to secure connecting wiring to and from external sources (wires to the television, cable-service wires to the rack, Ethernet connections from other parts of the house, routers/modems, etc.) These are all things which have readily available solutions... or really cannot be "solved". At one end of the spectrum you can secure your speaker cables inside the rack using zip ties... And, at the other end of the spectrum, you could equip your home with "lift up server flooring" (like the kind often used to run cabling under the floor in "server rooms". That sort of thing is very practical in server rooms... I'm also pretty sure that, in some places like studios and conference rooms, a fancier variation of this is also used. (The floor is made out of three foot squares, which can be individually removed, and have channels underneath to run wiring through.) Unfortunately, from what I've seen, any system like that that looks and feels nice will end up being astronomically expensive. I should also point out that, to a significant degree, we are all trapped by some of the requirements and limitations of our current technology. For example, you CAN abandon both HDMI and analog audio cabling, and use entirely Ethernet... Many commercial video production studios currently use Ethernet for ALL of their video traffic... And there are standards, like Dante, which would enable you to handle all of your audio over Ethernet as well... The problem is that the cost of doing so is simply impractical for most home users. It's also worth mentioning that, at least here in the USA, many consumers simply do not PREFER to do things that way. For example you CAN purchase powered monitors that support a digital standard called Dante. Each speaker gets its audio input from a digital controller via Ethernet. And, to be quite blunt, while they cost a lot more than most of our gear, they cost far less than some "expensive audiophile options". However, while this option is becoming popular in studios, most of our customers prefer separate amplifiers and speakers. I’ve spent the evening creating (and organizing) speaker wires, interconnects, power cords, and wall warts. My butt and knees are sore, and I’ve got sore eyes from squinting at poorly-labeled back panels of components. Hence, my proposals for "the Boomzilla Equipment Rack:" * Switched LEDs both above and below back-panel connections so that users wouldn’t have to read tiny, tiny text on a back panel that is shaded by the equipment shelves and mostly obscured by wires in the way. Otherwise, users have to hold a flashlight in one hand, hold wiring aside with one hand, and make connections with one hand while supporting the front of the component with one hand to prevent movement while making connections! * Power connections pre-wired into the rack to allow power (including space for wall-warts) to be distributed throughout the equipment rack. Perhaps the AC supplies could even be inside the structural steel members of the rack to avoid hum pickup. * Short, IEC-terminated power cables in a variety of lengths, colors, and AWG ratings so that the last few inches of power connection from the rack to the components would be neat and simple * Signal cable routing designed to avoid hum pickup from the power system * Interconnects should be offered in a variety of lengths and colors, both single-ended or balanced, and the rack documentation should provide a chart suggesting correct interconnect lengths from any rack location to any other. * Easily-modifiable structural changes for different equipment heights and depths * Economically expandable for future growth * Quick-change swapping between mounting for 19-inch “pro” equipment and consumer products * Optional, automatic, temperature-activated ventilation fans controlled by magnetic or stick-on sensors * Modular sections of the rack could be changed from carpet-piercing spikes (for the turntable section, for example) to soft rollers that wouldn't mar hard floors * Speaker cable wiring should be secured so that the wires aren't prone to being run over by the casters or pulled apart when the rack is moved * There should be ways to secure connecting wiring to and from external sources (wires to the television, cable-service wires to the rack, Ethernet connections from other parts of the house, routers/modems, etc.) I’d buy an equipment rack like that!PS: I'm sure that KeithL and others will quickly tell me that most users wouldn't care about many of the features I request. I agree with that observation, but still think that some of the options would be applicable to all. The other objection that I expect is that of cost. In reply, may I suggest that you actually LOOK at the current prices of most "audio stands" that offer none of the features suggested above. Would it really cost that much to offer the features I suggest? And finally, it would seem that at least SOME of the features I suggest (switched LEDs at the top and bottom of the back of the rack) could be retrofitted to existing stands. And of course - your needs aren't my needs. If none of the features I suggest appeal to you, then you've got LOTS of stand choices currently available, and at a wide selection of prices. Cordially - Glenn
|
|
|
Post by leonski on May 3, 2024 18:11:32 GMT -5
For my nickel? ONE major feature missing. I leave this one to your imagination...... And shelves MUST be beyond merely 'sturdy'. Regardless of required weight supporting ability, vibration is an issue....like it or not. Especially for those who insist on a turntable.
I use a headlamp, a 3 or 4 level PETZL, meant for campers. I also have several mirrors from wifes makeup 'things'.....Not to mention my NEBO Flashlight which is Very Bright and uses a rechargeable 18650 battery....
The DIY inclined can make a wonderful AND good looking shelf unit totally customized to desire....
I would NEVER use tie wraps except in the most dire emergency. Instead? THINK about the design before doing anything physical. LOOK at Conduit Channels. They come in sizes from industrial to more modest. I've also seen feedthrus which are insulated with soft material so cable goes thru but they are dust proof.....and sealed.....
|
|
|
Post by marcl on May 4, 2024 7:38:20 GMT -5
Still chugging! Four days! Primary box on the left, Backup box on the right ...
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on May 4, 2024 8:41:07 GMT -5
Still chugging! Four days! Now you'll have a power blip and it'll start over! LOL
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on May 4, 2024 8:44:48 GMT -5
That actually sounds cool... but I would point out that a lot of that stuff is actually "available"... although not al "part of the rack per-se"... As Cajun humorist, Mr. Justin Wilson used to say: "Great mines, dey tink alike!" Your thoughts mostly mirror mine on how to get what I want from my equipment rack. I did find a clamp-on LED light with a flexible gooseneck that should provide light anywhere it's needed. I also plan to add power strips to the bottom of each shelf. The rest, I can probably accomplish with cable ties and some mounting lugs.
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on May 4, 2024 15:14:39 GMT -5
All today's excitement was for naught. Although the Post Office delivered my iPhone camera adapter (Lightning to USB-A female) they DIDN'T deliver my AudioQuest Dragonfly Red, and without the DAC, I'm still dead in the water. I'm learning to HATE Louis DeJoy with a passion!
|
|
|
Post by leonski on May 4, 2024 19:36:54 GMT -5
Boom?
SIMPLIFY. complexity may be the ultimate enemy of simple enjoyment.
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on May 4, 2024 21:00:14 GMT -5
I’m simplifying to the extent practicable. I think that before I/we get out of this house, I’ll need to compare amps or speakers. This rig makes it convenient.
|
|
|
Post by leonski on May 5, 2024 2:15:48 GMT -5
RARE FIND today.
I was at a late lunch / early dinner after completing most of my errands.
In came a big, tall guy who parked his bike JUST outside the window. He, as it turned out was One Brave Soul.
When I left? I LOOKED at the bike and was gobsmacked. Brave and fast thieves COULD have had this machine.
It was an Original Litespeed Titanium bike. Make with the finest grade of tubing and even 6-4 dropouts...... And NOT a scratch on it. Owner came out and told me it was 17 years old....he being the original purchaser. Also? Guy was OVER 70 years old and FIT.
Of course, NONE of the original components were still in service. I didn't even bother to look.
You simply do not see many of these, even though many consider it the pinacle of metal bicycle construction.
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on May 5, 2024 4:50:29 GMT -5
I designed, cut, and brazed my own Renyolds 531 frame back in the day, but never got to TIG or MIG welding.
And on another note, an audio amigo has offered to loan me a compact Jolida DAC to play with. He’s also a dealer for Black Ice Audio (whose tube DACs I love).
|
|
|
Post by leonski on May 5, 2024 13:51:39 GMT -5
531 is a landmark of Manganese-Molybdenum steels. NOTE: No Chromium..... 753r is identical in composition but post treated to a much harder condition. Reynolds required a special certification from fabricators before you had access to THAT particular tubeset.....
Without crashing? A lifetime frameset.....Unlike Aluminium which WILL stress out even if it takes 50 years.
Jolida has a flawless rep. ENJOY and report back after some listening.
|
|
KeithL
Administrator
Posts: 9,992
|
Post by KeithL on May 5, 2024 15:14:53 GMT -5
Interesting...
You're hoping to have Roon send the audio to the iPhone... And then have the iPhone be "the computer that plays the audio through the DAC"...
(To be quite honest I wouldn't even guess if it will allow you to do that or not... but it's worth a try.)
All today's excitement was for naught. Although the Post Office delivered my iPhone camera adapter (Lightning to USB-A female) they DIDN'T deliver my AudioQuest Dragonfly Red, and without the DAC, I'm still dead in the water. I'm learning to HATE Louis DeJoy with a passion!
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on May 5, 2024 15:57:25 GMT -5
Interesting... You're hoping to have Roon send the audio to the iPhone... And then have the iPhone be "the computer that plays the audio through the DAC"...
(To be quite honest I wouldn't even guess if it will allow you to do that or not... but it's worth a try.) I've read that it can work. Will have feedback tomorrow.
|
|
|
Post by leonski on May 5, 2024 19:25:56 GMT -5
Isn't there a More Difficult way to make all this work?
|
|
|
Post by Boomzilla on May 5, 2024 21:12:25 GMT -5
As of yet, there’s no guarantee that this WILL work. If it doesn’t, I will give up and move the Mac mini to the living room.
|
|