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Post by brand on Feb 21, 2016 15:23:41 GMT -5
Damn the size...get a Rhythmik F25 and act like it's an end table! Mark Act like an end table? My PSA XS-15se IS an end table! Picture taken at a perfect angle so it says "Ma Cave"
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novisnick
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Post by novisnick on Feb 21, 2016 16:20:22 GMT -5
Act like an end table? My PSA XS-15se IS an end table! Picture taken at a perfect angle so it says "Ma Cave" I was wondering how long it would take for a very bright person to notice that!,,,,,,,not very long, was it!,!
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Post by millst on Feb 22, 2016 10:42:42 GMT -5
You could try Dirac and set the curtains to 300Hz (or less). You'd get the benefit of room EQ and probably avoid your smearing issue. You'd also get some graphs that help understand what's deficient in your bass response.
-tm
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Post by 509Paul on Feb 22, 2016 12:23:11 GMT -5
You could try Dirac and set the curtains to 300Hz (or less). You'd get the benefit of room EQ and probably avoid your smearing issue. You'd also get some graphs that help understand what's deficient in your bass response. -tm I think my Polk Audio RTi A9's were wired incorrectly at the factory according to the binding posts. I tapped a AA battery to the woofer terminal cable briefly and the woofer pulled in instead of out. I reversed the cables and the sound is a lot warmer and the bass response of the Polks improved and blended better with the SVS SB 13 Ultra. Need to try Dirac again tonight and see what happens...
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butchgo
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Post by butchgo on Feb 22, 2016 13:48:34 GMT -5
The room is 15'x17' with minimal treatment other than a couch and a thick rug over wood flooring. I currently have an old Polk Audio 50 watt 10" ported sub that will actually overdrive the room but does not play down below around 40hz. It has developed an internal rattle when asked to play loud on some heavy LFE movies. I thought it would give up its ghost on U571 during the depth charge scenes. That's about the size of our room too and I am running 2 Outlaw 12" LFM-1 EX subs and they do a great job. These aren't made any longer but they do have a newer model which is the 12" Ultra-X12 you might look at. Or just wait and check out Emotiva's new subs when they are released.
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selkec
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Post by selkec on Feb 22, 2016 15:03:44 GMT -5
Or go diy with a dayton ultimax kit for a fraction of the price and blow that svs sub away in performance
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 22, 2016 17:18:16 GMT -5
Or go diy with a dayton ultimax kit for a fraction of the price and blow that svs sub away in performance But then it would be too big.
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Feb 22, 2016 17:42:08 GMT -5
You could try Dirac and set the curtains to 300Hz (or less). You'd get the benefit of room EQ and probably avoid your smearing issue. You'd also get some graphs that help understand what's deficient in your bass response. -tm I think my Polk Audio RTi A9's were wired incorrectly at the factory according to the binding posts. I tapped a AA battery to the woofer terminal cable briefly and the woofer pulled in instead of out. I reversed the cables and the sound is a lot warmer and the bass response of the Polks improved and blended better with the SVS SB 13 Ultra. Need to try Dirac again tonight and see what happens... Funny you say that about polarity. I spiked my speakers today and put some foam discs under the sub to minimize room shake and I accidentally put one of the speakers out of phase. It took an hour of trying to fiddle around to figure out why things sounded so much worse and was so thankful my sound came back once I corrected the polarity. So much for tweaking...but in the end I fiddled with things even more and put the sub behind the center seating area against the wall. Of course in my head things sound better than ever!!!
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Post by 509Paul on Feb 22, 2016 17:55:57 GMT -5
Both my main speakers were wired correct at the amp and at the speakers for polarity but after reversing the cables so BOTH speakers are now wired with the positive amp feed going to the negative speaker lug and the negative amp feed is now going to the positive speaker lug. I think the speakers are incorrectly labeled positive and negative because it is like I just bought a whole new set of speakers the difference is so drastic.
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Feb 22, 2016 19:23:20 GMT -5
Both my main speakers were wired correct at the amp and at the speakers for polarity but after reversing the cables so BOTH speakers are now wired with the positive amp feed going to the negative speaker lug and the negative amp feed is now going to the positive speaker lug. I think the speakers are incorrectly labeled positive and negative because it is like I just bought a whole new set of speakers the difference is so drastic. What you effectively did was reverse the phase on the SVS sub. If you change the phase to 180 degrees and put the speaker cables back, I think it's the same effect. Since the phase on the SVS has 15 degree increments, you can fine tune the phase even more but 180 degrees may be the optimal setting if your sub is on the same plane as your main speakers.
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Post by 509Paul on Feb 22, 2016 21:11:54 GMT -5
The difference was noticeable with the sub off also. Everything about the main speakers is better now including bass response running full range.
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Post by ÈlTwo on Feb 23, 2016 0:24:25 GMT -5
So, you actually do have 'bass ackward' speakers.
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Post by 509Paul on Feb 23, 2016 0:29:26 GMT -5
Not sure what I have... About to tear the whole system down and start over.
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Post by rtg97229 on Feb 23, 2016 2:49:09 GMT -5
Or go diy with a dayton ultimax kit for a fraction of the price and blow that svs sub away in performance That and also easily blow the PSAs that people keep recommending out of the water in output, quality, and cost. Depending on needs a Rythmik could also be worth looking at or a DIY with a SI HST18 but that would be slightly larger than what he was looking for.
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albe
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Post by albe on Feb 23, 2016 10:18:29 GMT -5
Not sure what I have... About to tear the whole system down and start over. It can get unnerving. I have found that I really have to be in a tinkering mood to "tune" my gear...Room treatment, in my NsHO, is key and bass management is a very close second. I'm surprised about the POLK's, cool you found it. Does your system provide for a "Direct" mode, a way to bypass the sub when in a critical 2-channel listening mood? I have found that this is sometimes pleasing to me, depending on music content. also do the sub crawl as previously pointed out...this AND phasing will help tremendously check this out... Stereophile Test CD2
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Feb 23, 2016 16:10:55 GMT -5
The difference was noticeable with the sub off also. Everything about the main speakers is better now including bass response running full range. If that's the case full range, I think one of your wires were connected out of phase. If the polarity is reversed on both speakers the net effect is zero. If your reversed both again at the speaker terminal, it should sound the same full range. Regardless, the fact that everything is in phase now and you are achieving the potential of your system is good news. With the one SB13, Im getting room shaking bass...and more importantly, it's tight quality bass. Nothing floppy.
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Post by 509Paul on Feb 23, 2016 22:51:04 GMT -5
45 minutes spend doing the subwoofer crawl and relocating furniture out of the way on the walls and I have found a spot that makes the SVS SB13 Ultra come to life way better than I could have imagined. Ended up placing it in a third of the way from the corner on the wall behind my listening position for the best uniform sound. Found out during the process that my room is horrible for bass response and had more dead spots than anything. A lot of areas along the walls had no bass at all including the spot my original sub was placed. Maybe the ported design of that sub had something to do with its unique room response because it sounded good there.
Now i I just need my iPad camera connection cable to arrive tomorrow and I will see what the Faber Acoustical Signal Scope Pro app says with the 1/3 octave RTA measurements and tweak everything including the time alignment at the crossover point between the mains and sub. I have read several ways about adjusting the sub distance menu to get the sub playing in phase with the mains so I need to try those tricks next. Should keep me busy the next couple nights waiting for my last 2 Polk Audio RTi a3 speakers to arrive for the rear 7.1 channels.
Still waiting for Emotiva to ship my XPA-5 on 2/28 and then another week on the truck of impatiently checking the UPS tracking every 30 minutes like I may have mild OCD... Two months without my surround sound working since sending the XPA-7 back and only having my XPA-2 has gotten me back into revisiting a lot of albums I have enjoyed though.
Then on to the nightmare they call Dirac...
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novisnick
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Post by novisnick on Feb 23, 2016 23:15:24 GMT -5
Time well spent! You found out about your room , more in 45 minutes then most ever learn. Amazing how,,,,it's there,,,,,,and then,,,,,,,it's gone???,,,,,,WHAT? !!!!?!?!? An epiphany!! Keep up the good work my friend!
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Feb 24, 2016 21:34:38 GMT -5
Time well spent! You found out about your room , more in 45 minutes then most ever learn. Amazing how,,,,it's there,,,,,,and then,,,,,,,it's gone???,,,,,,WHAT? !!!!?!?!? An epiphany!! Keep up the good work my friend! Yes he did a good job. It took me what 3 years and I think I finally found the ideal spot for my sub. For some reason I was always stuck on keeping the sub on the same plane as the mains. Now I gotta rerun Dirac! Ugh...its the worst most boring necessary evil I need to do. Good thing it's not as bad as having a Mac. I have an iMac...but I have a Windows laptop as well. Whew!
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Post by 509Paul on Mar 2, 2016 18:48:23 GMT -5
XPA-5 is finally in motion and cruising across the country on a UPS truck! I think UPS should be above the speed limit laws and allowed to drive 90mph to get my stuff to me faster.
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