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Post by audiobill on Aug 18, 2016 10:59:52 GMT -5
I'd like some thoughts on the most cost effective, acoustically sound solution for a dropped (suspended) basement ceiling, about 750 sq. ft.
Thanks!
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Post by brutiarti on Aug 18, 2016 11:07:53 GMT -5
Are you trying to treat the whole basement or just the ceiling?
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Post by knucklehead on Aug 18, 2016 11:34:12 GMT -5
Many of the dropped ceiling panels have sound deadening properties built in. It helps keep noises down in a large office setting. Seems like the more effective the sound deadening properties the higher the price.
I lucked out. My house was built in 1950 and came with ceiling acoustic tiles in the living room - my MLP. They were apparently quite cheap 'back in the day'. Not so much now. I remember seeing these same tiles in many F&F's older homes.
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Post by simpleman68 on Aug 18, 2016 11:54:37 GMT -5
Hey Bill, Can you clarify what they are trying to treat? Absorptive, reflective? Trying to keep sound out of the upstairs or treat the ceiling for reflections, or both? Scott
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Post by deltadube on Aug 18, 2016 13:08:23 GMT -5
just get acoustical panels for the dropped ceiling .. for more treatment stuff roxul safe and sound in the joist of the ceiling .. or afb acoustic fire batt same thing..
slow a house fire down.. free bonus..
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Post by Boomzilla on Aug 18, 2016 13:23:52 GMT -5
I'd do it differently (but of course...)
I'd remove the dropped ceiling & raise the ceiling to the joists of the floor above. Then nail in 4x8 sheets of acoustic foam. The higher ceiling will provide more benefits than the acoustic treatment.
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hemster
Global Moderator
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...still listening... still watching
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Post by hemster on Aug 18, 2016 13:37:34 GMT -5
I'd do it differently (but of course...) I'd remove the dropped ceiling & raise the ceiling to the joists of the floor above. Then nail in 4x8 sheets of acoustic foam. The higher ceiling will provide more benefits than the acoustic treatment.How do you figure a high ceiling is more beneficial than acoustic treatment? Not saying it won't but just trying to understand the science behind (er.. above?) it...
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Post by audiobill on Aug 18, 2016 13:39:07 GMT -5
Thanks, all - this is part of finishing a basement project - now joists above.
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Post by Boomzilla on Aug 18, 2016 13:40:46 GMT -5
How do you figure a high ceiling is more beneficial than acoustic treatment? Not saying it won't but just trying to understand the science behind (er.. above?) it... All other things being equal - Reflection time. Larger spaces = longer reflection times (and lower reflection amplitudes) due to the inverse-square law.
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Post by simpleman68 on Aug 18, 2016 13:52:29 GMT -5
I'd do it differently (but of course...) I'd remove the dropped ceiling & raise the ceiling to the joists of the floor above. Then nail in 4x8 sheets of acoustic foam. The higher ceiling will provide more benefits than the acoustic treatment. This is what I did in the basement theater. Removed the drop ceiling, installed acoustic isolation pads to the joists, installed Roxul in between joists, installed OSB and a layer of homasote. Finally covered the entire ceiling with a dark black fabric from Fabric Mate. No solid surface, very minimal reflection from projector light and very good for capturing reflections. In fact when I put wall treatments on it killed the room and I had to pull most of them off. Scott
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Post by bluemeanies on Aug 18, 2016 13:56:16 GMT -5
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Post by Boomzilla on Aug 18, 2016 16:00:25 GMT -5
Aesthetics? We don' need no stinkin' aesthetics! LOL
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Post by yves on Aug 18, 2016 18:04:07 GMT -5
Armstrong ContractorSeries™ 954 (2′ × 2′ × ¾″ classic fine textured mineral fiber tiles) absorb sound up to 70%, are ideal for basement because they are mold resistant, sag resistant, antibacterial, and can be loaded with additional mineral wool insulation several inches thick such that they will give you bass trapping performance at an affordable price. At the early reflection points you could decide to use the RealTraps tiles instead (use the ones that are 3″ thick, or just take it the DIY route because they're like $79.99 each so not "the most cost effective" IMO by any particular stretch). www.menards.com/main/home-decor/ceilings/commercial-ceilings/armstrong-classic-24-x-24-fine-textured-angled-tegular-drop-ceiling-tile/p-1444424309084.htmP.S., they are available at Home Depot too.
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Post by Loop 7 on Aug 18, 2016 18:53:11 GMT -5
Here's my disaster of a room. Even with rugs and window coverings, clapping a hand once offers a bright, sharp return (speakers are not to scale). Ridiculous.
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Post by simpleman68 on Aug 18, 2016 19:25:21 GMT -5
Here's my disaster of a room. Even with rugs and window coverings, clapping a hand once offers a bright, sharp return (speakers are not to scale). Ridiculous. Dang, that must be tough to regulate. More gain and bass on the left channel I'd guess with vastly different 1st order reflections. I don't have the cathedral ceiling but I do have 20' ceilings, nearly square room and hardwood floors as well. Scott
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novisnick
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Post by novisnick on Aug 18, 2016 19:37:21 GMT -5
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novisnick
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Post by novisnick on Aug 18, 2016 19:38:59 GMT -5
OH, and put some heavy drapes up as well as some tapestry.
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Post by simpleman68 on Aug 18, 2016 19:57:40 GMT -5
OH, and put some heavy drapes up as well as some tapestry. Not sure how that's supposed to help.
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Post by yves on Aug 18, 2016 20:00:28 GMT -5
Here's my disaster of a room. Even with rugs and window coverings, clapping a hand once offers a bright, sharp return (speakers are not to scale). Ridiculous. To find out if it is a real issue you need to be at your listening position and let someone else clap his/her hands at the exact acoustic center of each speaker. In the discussion thread below they are mostly talking about using absorption, but a too high percentage of absorbtive surface area will make a room sound too dead so if that's the case then in some strategic locations you could decide to use deflectors instead, but while keeping in mind the fact in some other strategic locations you might want to install diffusors (e.g., DIY diffusors: arqen.com/sound-diffusers ). BUT... generally you should start first by placing as many DIY bass traps as you possibly can, and build them properly so they actually absorb bass frequencies. (Commercial products can work too, but many are junk, and ones that work are typically always on the expensive side even though they are easy to DIY after you have read the facts and thrown away the fiction about how they work and why they're compulsory). www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-building-acoustics/605387-flutter-echo.html
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Post by audiobill on Aug 18, 2016 20:07:24 GMT -5
I knew you guys could help me, some great info here. Keep the great thoughts coming!!!
Thanks,
Bill
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