Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Dec 16, 2019 11:09:26 GMT -5
A couple thoughts on the topic of crossovers .... maybe stating the obvious at first, but to get us aligned ... Yes the LFE in movies always goes to the sub so the crossover is irrelevant for actual movie LFE. Also for multichannel music the .1 goes to the sub. For all the other speakers (for both movies and music) you set the crossover to achieve the best balance of the low frequency capabilities of the speakers. You should measure this to see that there is a smooth transition at the crossover point. And of course listen to be sure it sounds good too. Large main speakers generally have faster, more accurate bass ... so cross them over lower (I cross my Magnepan 3.7's at 40Hz). Small in-ceiling speakers will be deficient in low frequencies so crossing at 100 or 120Hz is reasonable. My Magnepan MC1 surround speakers (on the wall) cross at 100Hz. In general I think it makes sense to cross as low as possible because subs will always be a bit sluggish. Measurements are also useful to ensure that the speakers and subs are in phase at the crossover point so you don't end up with a null. Very well put. I’ve also heard it said that setting the crossover (even) higher for ceiling speakers might be desirable as it makes them more directional and may enhance height effects. This would certainly be subjective and room / speaker dependent, but a consideration. I think Emotiva defaults the height speakers’ crossover to 150hz. I’ll leave it at 120hz for me then. I’ve now changed my sub setup to dual mono and it’s fine. I guess the LFE is sent to the subs along with the bass from the other speakers. I don’t have a third sub just for the LFE. I don’t understand the purpose of the LFE designation if someone has 1 sub. Unless someone has full range speakers all around, bass will be “lost”.
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Post by Gary Cook on Dec 16, 2019 12:01:24 GMT -5
Personally I would never buy ceiling speakers that couldn’t handle a cross over at around 60 to 70 hz. As unlikely as it is, I don’t want any chance of directional sound coming from the sub woofer that the movie sound mixer intended to emanate from the ceiling.
The movie sound mixer via the LFE channel decides what sound effects are directed to the sub woofer. Anything else that emanates from the sub woofer is determined by where I set the cross over. To me it’s is illogical to have different frequencies (from different channels/speakers) redirected to the sub woofer, most especially frequencies where their direction can be discerned. It is generally accepted that human hearing can detect directionality in sound above around 80 hz. That’s why crossing over above that risks sound effects coming from the sub woofer that I can determine should have been coming from somewhere else. Kinda defeats the purpose of having a movie sound track designed to place sounds around the room.
Merry Xmas Gary
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Post by Pioneer on Dec 16, 2019 12:35:27 GMT -5
Personally I would never buy ceiling speakers that couldn’t handle a cross over at around 60 to 70 hz. As unlikely as it is, I don’t want any chance of directional sound coming from the sub woofer that the movie sound mixer intended to emanate from the ceiling. The movie sound mixer via the LFE channel decides what sound effects are directed to the sub woofer. Anything else that emanates from the sub woofer is determined by where I set the cross over. To me it’s is illogical to have different frequencies (from different channels/speakers) redirected to the sub woofer, most especially frequencies where their direction can be discerned. It is generally accepted that human hearing can detect directionality in sound above around 80 hz. That’s why crossing over above that risks sound effects coming from the sub woofer that I can determine should have been coming from somewhere else. Kinda defeats the purpose of having a movie sound track designed to place sounds around the room. Merry Xmas Gary Gary, if you have large floor standing speakers as mains that do well down to 30 to 40 hertz are you going to cross them over at lets say 80 hertz like your other surround and ceiling speakers as well? I think this is the point that we are trying to make, that the cross over points would vary with each particular system. I myself am getting ready to use large towers for mains, two dedicated subs that will hook up to feed from the main power amp as well as the LFE at the same time (Sumiko S.10's, Rels do the same thing) and maybe a third larger sub hooked up LFE only.
Merry Xmas also, Chris.
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Post by hsamwel on Dec 16, 2019 14:30:19 GMT -5
A couple thoughts on the topic of crossovers .... maybe stating the obvious at first, but to get us aligned ... Yes the LFE in movies always goes to the sub so the crossover is irrelevant for actual movie LFE. Also for multichannel music the .1 goes to the sub. For all the other speakers (for both movies and music) you set the crossover to achieve the best balance of the low frequency capabilities of the speakers. You should measure this to see that there is a smooth transition at the crossover point. And of course listen to be sure it sounds good too. Large main speakers generally have faster, more accurate bass ... so cross them over lower (I cross my Magnepan 3.7's at 40Hz). Small in-ceiling speakers will be deficient in low frequencies so crossing at 100 or 120Hz is reasonable. My Magnepan MC1 surround speakers (on the wall) cross at 100Hz. In general I think it makes sense to cross as low as possible because subs will always be a bit sluggish. Measurements are also useful to ensure that the speakers and subs are in phase at the crossover point so you don't end up with a null. I set my crossover even at 100hz for all speakers, even though most speakers reach 45-55hz in the specs, my mains even bellow 30hz. Why? Because bass is not good to have coming from several places. Less distorsion, cleaner sound and better more even bass. I’ll bet most have subs that handle sub 80hz better than any main speaker. That’s why we calibrate the subs so they do their best. But the higher you let the subs play the more important it becomes them being absolutely perfectly setup, phase, delay and all. The LFE signal goes up to 120hz. When I have Dirac installed this may change because then Dirac will handle all those low frequency problems. I also have a Antimode subwoofer dsp which handles my low frequency. They actually recommend lifting the crossover to 100-120hz. They explain why this in their manual, but it has to do with phase and flat frequency making the bass less direction sensitive. IMHO
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Post by hsamwel on Dec 16, 2019 14:53:54 GMT -5
Very well put. I’ve also heard it said that setting the crossover (even) higher for ceiling speakers might be desirable as it makes them more directional and may enhance height effects. This would certainly be subjective and room / speaker dependent, but a consideration. I think Emotiva defaults the height speakers’ crossover to 150hz. I’ll leave it at 120hz for me then. I’ve now changed my sub setup to dual mono and it’s fine. I guess the LFE is sent to the subs along with the bass from the other speakers. I don’t have a third sub just for the LFE. I don’t understand the purpose of the LFE designation if someone has 1 sub. Unless someone has full range speakers all around, bass will be “lost”. Lost yes, not many main speakers play flat down to 20hz.. Although if you for example had setup a 5.2 system with full range down to 30hz speakers all around. I bet most would not hear those ”missing” 10hz. This because movies don’t usually have that many seconds of bellow 30hz sound effects in the main channels and the LFE also have these low frequencies anyway. Running such a system uncalibrated would not be advised IMO.
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Post by Gary Cook on Dec 16, 2019 14:59:27 GMT -5
Personally I would never buy ceiling speakers that couldn’t handle a cross over at around 60 to 70 hz. As unlikely as it is, I don’t want any chance of directional sound coming from the sub woofer that the movie sound mixer intended to emanate from the ceiling. The movie sound mixer via the LFE channel decides what sound effects are directed to the sub woofer. Anything else that emanates from the sub woofer is determined by where I set the cross over. To me it’s is illogical to have different frequencies (from different channels/speakers) redirected to the sub woofer, most especially frequencies where their direction can be discerned. It is generally accepted that human hearing can detect directionality in sound above around 80 hz. That’s why crossing over above that risks sound effects coming from the sub woofer that I can determine should have been coming from somewhere else. Kinda defeats the purpose of having a movie sound track designed to place sounds around the room. Gary, if you have large floor standing speakers as mains that do well down to 30 to 40 hertz are you going to cross them over at lets say 80 hertz like your other surround and ceiling speakers as well? I think this is the point that we are trying to make, that the cross over points would vary with each particular system. I myself am getting ready to use large towers for mains, two dedicated subs that will hook up to feed from the main power amp as well as the LFE at the same time (Sumiko S.10's, Rels do the same thing) and maybe a third larger sub hooked up LFE only.
Merry Xmas also, Chris. I think we could go on forever debating whether crossing over at 60 is better than 70, or that 50 is even better. Really at those frequencies it’s a matter of personal choice, room acoustics and individual speaker capabilities. Whereas crossing over at anything much above 80 I would argue can create problems related to directionality, which I see as being undesirable in a sound track engineered specifically to spread the sound around the listener as the movie sound mixer intended. It just seems wrong to me to have, say, an Atmos sound track where the sound mixer deliberately placed, say, a 100hz effect in the left rear ceiling speaker and because of the cross over (at 120 hz) it gets moved to the sub woofer. That just doesn’t sound right because I can most likely determine the directionality at 100 hz and the sound won’t match what was intended and/or won’t align with what’s going on on the screen. Whereas if he placed it in the left surround speaker it would stay there if I had the cross over set at, say, 90 hz. For me music is entirely different (to movies) especially 2.1 stereo, my front left and front right speakers have woofers that are rated to 30 hz and I roll the sub woofer in as best I can to match the natural roll off of the main speakers. I spent a lot of time measuring and mostly listening, getting that so it sounded it’s best to me. Merry Xmas Gary
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Post by motogp34 on Dec 16, 2019 15:57:24 GMT -5
Any update on Dirac Live availability yet ?
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Dec 16, 2019 18:27:46 GMT -5
A couple thoughts on the topic of crossovers .... maybe stating the obvious at first, but to get us aligned ... Yes the LFE in movies always goes to the sub so the crossover is irrelevant for actual movie LFE. Also for multichannel music the .1 goes to the sub. For all the other speakers (for both movies and music) you set the crossover to achieve the best balance of the low frequency capabilities of the speakers. You should measure this to see that there is a smooth transition at the crossover point. And of course listen to be sure it sounds good too. Large main speakers generally have faster, more accurate bass ... so cross them over lower (I cross my Magnepan 3.7's at 40Hz). Small in-ceiling speakers will be deficient in low frequencies so crossing at 100 or 120Hz is reasonable. My Magnepan MC1 surround speakers (on the wall) cross at 100Hz. In general I think it makes sense to cross as low as possible because subs will always be a bit sluggish. Measurements are also useful to ensure that the speakers and subs are in phase at the crossover point so you don't end up with a null. I set my crossover even at 100hz for all speakers, even though most speakers reach 45-55hz in the specs, my mains even bellow 30hz. Why? Because bass is not good to have coming from several places. Less distorsion, cleaner sound and better more even bass. I’ll bet most have subs that handle sub 80hz better than any main speaker. That’s why we calibrate the subs so they do their best. But the higher you let the subs play the more important it becomes them being absolutely perfectly setup, phase, delay and all. The LFE signal goes up to 120hz. When I have Dirac installed this may change because then Dirac will handle all those low frequency problems. I also have a Antimode subwoofer dsp which handles my low frequency. They actually recommend lifting the crossover to 100-120hz. They explain why this in their manual, but it has to do with phase and flat frequency making the bass less direction sensitive. IMHO I’ll give this a try. Setting all my speakers to Large and the sub to LFE was worse than my original settings of setting my full range mains and surrounds to 40hz and my center to 50hz. Well maybe I’ll try 80hz first bc 100hz seems a bit extreme. My Revel F208 has excellent mid-bass. It’s much more well defined than my 13” or 16” sub driver imho. EDIT: 100 or 80hz was too high but 60hz all around and 80hz for my ceiling speakers looks like the sweet spot (for now). It sounds better than when I crossed over at 40-50hz.
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Post by goodfellas27 on Dec 16, 2019 23:26:37 GMT -5
any youtube video to follow? Would like to know what initial setup everyone went through? I did a normal distance, crossover(LCR and surrounds at 80, heights at 90),spl meter calibration(medium test tone at 75db). Have a 5.1.4 setup. Im not sure if Im doing something wrong but it doesn’t sound right. Surrounds and heights are very minimal. Not immersive as much as my denon x4500(Audyssey is off when I was doing comparisons). Bass is also not impactful as well. Curious on why I had to adjust one of my speakers to large in order to set the subwoofer to LFE. I just recently bought this and out of the box, im not impressed yet. If yall have any tips it would greatly be appreciated. Thanks. Were you able to dial you system in? I thought my stuff sounded good doing the basic setup which included setting levels with the crossover set to 50hz for my mains and surrounds and 60hz for my center channel. 120 hz for my ceiling speakers and then I measured the distances for each speaker and set those. This basic setup had everything sounding really good. Then I got an SVS PB16-ultra which motivated me to use REW to fine tune things until we get Dirac and that made a big difference in the overall sound and obviously my bass is out of this world now. It took some work to dial the 2 subs in - using a master / slave hookup using mono mode to get rid of the 2 subs cancelling each other out. And I like that midbass slam so I had to dial in a little PEQ boost and 65 & 80hz in the PB16. Also for music REW recommended I lower the bass at 44hz so I added that in the PB16 - but not for movies (I want that bottom end boost). Now I’m at a point that music sound amazing and full and movies have room shaking bass with crystal clear dialogue. Basically everything sounds even better than before. Still have minor switching quibbles but it’s very minor as in switch out then switch back type of stuff.
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Post by dkaudio on Dec 17, 2019 11:19:55 GMT -5
For me music is entirely different (to movies) especially 2.1 stereo, my front left and front right speakers have woofers that are rated to 30 hz and I roll the sub woofer in as best I can to match the natural roll off of the main speakers. I spent a lot of time measuring and mostly listening, getting that so it sounded it’s best to me. Merry Xmas Gary How are you achieving that? Are you using two different presets, one for movies and another for music? I have been contemplating this for a few weeks now actually on my XMC-1. In movies the LFE goes to the sub outputs, in stereo music, the bass to the subs is determined by the fronts xover setting. My fronts are DIYSSG 1099's, I have not been very happy with the bass for stereo music in which I often leave my power amp for my subs OFF. Currently under Dirac, the crossover is set to 60hz I believe. It would be nice to have movies be a higher crossover and for music have them much lower or even "Large". How is that accomplished when Dirac only has 1 Preset? I know we are kind of hi-jacking but it's a good discussion and would be nice to know if the XMC-2 handles this differently than the XMC-1.
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Post by Gary Cook on Dec 17, 2019 15:27:38 GMT -5
For me music is entirely different (to movies) especially 2.1 stereo, my front left and front right speakers have woofers that are rated to 30 hz and I roll the sub woofer in as best I can to match the natural roll off of the main speakers. I spent a lot of time measuring and mostly listening, getting that so it sounded it’s best to me. How are you achieving that? Are you using two different presets, one for movies and another for music? I have been contemplating this for a few weeks now actually on my XMC-1. In movies the LFE goes to the sub outputs, in stereo music, the bass to the subs is determined by the fronts xover setting. My fronts are DIYSSG 1099's, I have not been very happy with the bass for stereo music in which I often leave my power amp for my subs OFF. Currently under Dirac, the crossover is set to 60hz I believe. It would be nice to have movies be a higher crossover and for music have them much lower or even "Large". How is that accomplished when Dirac only has 1 Preset? I know we are kind of hi-jacking but it's a good discussion and would be nice to know if the XMC-2 handles this differently than the XMC-1. Simple answer, for 2.1 stereo music I use my XSP-1. Merry Xmas
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Post by musicloverkevin on Dec 17, 2019 17:54:09 GMT -5
The remote control is physically the same as the remote control for the XMC-1.... which means that the button codes themselves are all the same. (Along with the trim codes you will find that the previous direct buttons for PLIIx Music and PLIIx Movie now do Direct and All Stereo instead.)
However, as you probably know, there are supplemental IR codes that go beyond duplicating the keys on the remote control (things like direct access codes for all the individual inputs and modes). We haven't updated those for the RMC-1 and XMC-2 yet but we will be doing so eventually. (That isn't an especially high priority - but it will happen eventually.) I don’t think there are any new codes to be had, it seems they’ve used the same remote API as the XMC-1 with one exception, the codes that Harmony calls “Trim Back Up” and “Trim Back Down” we’re re-used and now control Height Up and Height Down. I’m disappointed by this but will discuss it in another thread. In any case, as far as I can tell, all the codes work on my Harmony Elite Home, including the Optical Inputs (I’m using Optical 1 & 2). So while it might make sense at some point to get the codes ‘refined’ for the XMC-2/RMC-1L/RMC-1, at the moment (speaking from experience with Logitech) it’s probably not worth the trouble, because as far as I can tell, there is just the one labeling issue. That said, I may not have tried everything. If you really are having trouble with setting your input to Optical with the Harmony, you should post your model / setup and what your trying, maybe we can help sort it out.
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Post by musicloverkevin on Dec 17, 2019 17:58:17 GMT -5
The remote control is physically the same as the remote control for the XMC-1.... which means that the button codes themselves are all the same. (Along with the trim codes you will find that the previous direct buttons for PLIIx Music and PLIIx Movie now do Direct and All Stereo instead.)
However, as you probably know, there are supplemental IR codes that go beyond duplicating the keys on the remote control (things like direct access codes for all the individual inputs and modes). We haven't updated those for the RMC-1 and XMC-2 yet but we will be doing so eventually. (That isn't an especially high priority - but it will happen eventually.) I don’t think there are any new codes to be had, it seems they’ve used the same remote API as the XMC-1 with one exception, the codes that Harmony calls “Trim Back Up” and “Trim Back Down” we’re re-used and now control Height Up and Height Down. I’m disappointed by this but will discuss it in another thread. In any case, as far as I can tell, all the codes work on my Harmony Elite Home, including the Optical Inputs (I’m using Optical 1 & 2). So while it might make sense at some point to get the codes ‘refined’ for the XMC-2/RMC-1L/RMC-1, at the moment (speaking from experience with Logitech) it’s probably not worth the trouble, because as far as I can tell, there is just the one labeling issue. That said, I may not have tried everything. If you really are having trouble with setting your input to Optical with the Harmony, you should post your model / setup and what your trying, maybe we can help sort it out.
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Dec 17, 2019 18:19:44 GMT -5
For me music is entirely different (to movies) especially 2.1 stereo, my front left and front right speakers have woofers that are rated to 30 hz and I roll the sub woofer in as best I can to match the natural roll off of the main speakers. I spent a lot of time measuring and mostly listening, getting that so it sounded it’s best to me. Merry Xmas Gary How are you achieving that? Are you using two different presets, one for movies and another for music? I have been contemplating this for a few weeks now actually on my XMC-1. In movies the LFE goes to the sub outputs, in stereo music, the bass to the subs is determined by the fronts xover setting. My fronts are DIYSSG 1099's, I have not been very happy with the bass for stereo music in which I often leave my power amp for my subs OFF. Currently under Dirac, the crossover is set to 60hz I believe. It would be nice to have movies be a higher crossover and for music have them much lower or even "Large". How is that accomplished when Dirac only has 1 Preset? I know we are kind of hi-jacking but it's a good discussion and would be nice to know if the XMC-2 handles this differently than the XMC-1. I believe we were told Dirac would have at least 2 presets. However the way things look for Dirac and the delayed timeframe, I’ll take 1 preset and the 2nd one delivered sometime later. My current setup is 60hz for all 5 speakers LCR LS RS and it’s ideal for music and movies. The only change is I need to go to my SVS app and change presets for music and movies. Easy enough thanks to the app.
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Post by musicloverkevin on Dec 17, 2019 18:39:52 GMT -5
The remote control is physically the same as the remote control for the XMC-1.... which means that the button codes themselves are all the same. (Along with the trim codes you will find that the previous direct buttons for PLIIx Music and PLIIx Movie now do Direct and All Stereo instead.)
However, as you probably know, there are supplemental IR codes that go beyond duplicating the keys on the remote control (things like direct access codes for all the individual inputs and modes). We haven't updated those for the RMC-1 and XMC-2 yet but we will be doing so eventually. (That isn't an especially high priority - but it will happen eventually.) So I replaced my XMC-1 with my new XMC-2 and matched all my equipment to the same inputs as on the XMC-1. I use a Harmony remote, and was hoping that I would not have to do too much reprogramming of the Harmony. All my devices (3 on HDMI-1 through HDMI-3) on HDMI work just fine -- exactly as they did when I had the XMC-1. However, my SONOS, which is on Coax-1 is not working. When I use the Harmony commands to listen to SONOS, the XMC-2 switches the input to Coax-3. Does anyone know what XMC-2 input matches to the code for XMC-Coax-1. I guess I can go down the trial and error method path, but hopefully someone out there can at least narrow down the options.
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geebo
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Post by geebo on Dec 17, 2019 18:51:38 GMT -5
So I replaced my XMC-1 with my new XMC-2 and matched all my equipment to the same inputs as on the XMC-1. I use a Harmony remote, and was hoping that I would not have to do too much reprogramming of the Harmony. All my devices (3 on HDMI-1 through HDMI-3) on HDMI work just fine -- exactly as they did when I had the XMC-1. However, my SONOS, which is on Coax-1 is not working. When I use the Harmony commands to listen to SONOS, the XMC-2 switches the input to Coax-3. Does anyone know what XMC-2 input matches to the code for XMC-Coax-1. I guess I can go down the trial and error method path, but hopefully someone out there can at least narrow down the options. Why not just plug the Sonos into Coax 3?
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klinemj
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Post by klinemj on Dec 17, 2019 18:55:13 GMT -5
I believe we were told Dirac would have at least 2 presets. I don't recall it being a definite statement that there would be 2. I recall a softer statement, more like they would like to provide it. I could be wrong. But, I would certainly like to see 2. Mark
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Dec 17, 2019 22:09:03 GMT -5
I believe we were told Dirac would have at least 2 presets. I don't recall it being a definite statement that there would be 2. I recall a softer statement, more like they would like to provide it. I could be wrong. But, I would certainly like to see 2. Mark Well at this point competition has kicked it up a notch with multiple Dirac presets. Why this is so difficult, I’ll never understand but I don’t care about multiple Dirac presets at this point considering how far it appears we are from getting Dirac. I’m ok with even the 2 channel Dirac - that’ll increase my music enjoyment immensely . If the 2 channel version is working, I would like that version as a beta and get the full version as an incremental update.
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Post by hsamwel on Dec 17, 2019 22:16:18 GMT -5
I set my crossover even at 100hz for all speakers, even though most speakers reach 45-55hz in the specs, my mains even bellow 30hz. Why? Because bass is not good to have coming from several places. Less distorsion, cleaner sound and better more even bass. I’ll bet most have subs that handle sub 80hz better than any main speaker. That’s why we calibrate the subs so they do their best. But the higher you let the subs play the more important it becomes them being absolutely perfectly setup, phase, delay and all. The LFE signal goes up to 120hz. When I have Dirac installed this may change because then Dirac will handle all those low frequency problems. I also have a Antimode subwoofer dsp which handles my low frequency. They actually recommend lifting the crossover to 100-120hz. They explain why this in their manual, but it has to do with phase and flat frequency making the bass less direction sensitive. IMHO I’ll give this a try. Setting all my speakers to Large and the sub to LFE was worse than my original settings of setting my full range mains and surrounds to 40hz and my center to 50hz. Well maybe I’ll try 80hz first bc 100hz seems a bit extreme. My Revel F208 has excellent mid-bass. It’s much more well defined than my 13” or 16” sub driver imho. EDIT: 100 or 80hz was too high but 60hz all around and 80hz for my ceiling speakers looks like the sweet spot (for now). It sounds better than when I crossed over at 40-50hz. My subwoofer DSP makes my subwoofers play extremely tight and clean. That’s probably why I come away with it. But it is also how good your subwoofer handles midbass 50-100hz.. Really big subwoofers sometimes are a little ”slow” compared to the main speakers fast 5-10” drivers. So you having 60hz crossover could very well be optimal in your setup. Mine are only dual 12”. IMO if you can, use same crossover all around. If not then it’s not the end of the world and can actually be better depending on room. After this discussion I got a little intrigued.. I will call a friend over and we will try the difference in my setup again. Go from 60hz to 100hz, maybe I lower the crossover this time?!
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Lsc
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Post by Lsc on Dec 18, 2019 1:32:27 GMT -5
I’ll give this a try. Setting all my speakers to Large and the sub to LFE was worse than my original settings of setting my full range mains and surrounds to 40hz and my center to 50hz. Well maybe I’ll try 80hz first bc 100hz seems a bit extreme. My Revel F208 has excellent mid-bass. It’s much more well defined than my 13” or 16” sub driver imho. EDIT: 100 or 80hz was too high but 60hz all around and 80hz for my ceiling speakers looks like the sweet spot (for now). It sounds better than when I crossed over at 40-50hz. My subwoofer DSP makes my subwoofers play extremely tight and clean. That’s probably why I come away with it. But it is also how good your subwoofer handles midbass 50-100hz.. Really big subwoofers sometimes are a little ”slow” compared to the main speakers fast 5-10” drivers. So you having 60hz crossover could very well be optimal in your setup. Mine are only dual 12”. IMO if you can, use same crossover all around. If not then it’s not the end of the world and can actually be better depending on room. After this discussion I got a little intrigued.. I will call a friend over and we will try the difference in my setup again. Go from 60hz to 100hz, maybe I lower the crossover this time?! I did read a review where it said the SVS PB16's mid-bass was not as strong as the low bass, that's why I dialed in a little boost at 63Hz and 80Hz. I also had to do a substantial cut at 44 Hz (per REW) when in music mode - makes the sub sound more like a sealed sub with this. My SVS subs are probably not the fastest subs but they have low distortion and sound reasonably tight with thundering low bass. My Revel F208's sound way better than they ever did with the help of the PB16 sub. And movies, it's literally out of control. All the while the XMC-2 is solid with no Dirac. I love Emotiva but this is not acceptable. This delay is absurd.
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