Advice as I piece togther my poorman's stereo dream system

[oidarnam]

Well darn it, I've been bitten by the ol' audio bug again in my old age...after many years of "just getting by." I'm no AVS guy and am quite happy with 2-ch (+subwoofer) A/V. Recently, I put together a system for a friend using mostly Emotiva (TA1, T-Zero+) and now I'm jealous. It's led me down the proverbial rabbit hole and I have some questions.

All this is subject to change, but here are my current ideas and some questions. (This is all in a state of flux, and I'm nowhere close to pulling the trigger at this point.)

Pretty much all my source material these days is from my HTPC (streaming and local media server) through a selection of inexpensive DACs.

So looking for feedback on these:

Q-1

I have my eye on the Arendal 1961 bookshelf speakers. Due to our small (poorman's) listening/viewing room arrangement, I would really like to place these as front L/R up high (like I have now) but away from the wall ( and somewhat close to ceiling) with some tilt (-15 degrees). The Arendals have a VESA 100 mount. I was looking at something like this to allow for tweaking orientation: WALI TV Wall Mount Articulating LCD Monitor Full Motion 15 inch Extension Arm Tilt Swivel for Most 13 to 30 inch LED TV Flat Panel Screen with VESA up to 100x100mm

My question here is, how does something like this mount work for mains? Would it need some isolation (like between speaker and mount and/or mount and wall) or would there likely be major resonance or rattling problems? Are there better solutions without spending more?

Q-2

I'd like to drive the Arendal 1961s with the BasX A2. I'm trying to think of the best way to split the bookshelf speakers and a powered subwoofer directly from the DAC (again, poorman style). Some thoughts were using something like a used SVS S12 that has a high pass line out (I don't think the new SB series has this) and send that from the A2 to mains. Then there are these line level high pass filters (using Y-splitters) and high level "bass blockers." This all sound like phasing/impedance nightmares. Any thoughts from you?

I'm really trying to get the most bang for the buck, right now, without a dedicated preamp with fancy bass management and with an upgrade path in the future.

Thanks

[oidarnam]

[EDIT: What I said below seems to be incorrect. Only the newer SVS Plus and Ultra models have a fixed high pass line outs]

I guess the newer SVS SB/PB-1000s do have a fixed 80 Hz high pass on the line out. It's just that the S12 had both unfiltered and high pass line outs. I wasn't sure since I've never used these. From the 1000 manual:

Line Level Outputs
These outputs are used in 2-channel applications to high pass the signal being
sent to the loudspeaker amplifier. The line level outputs feature a fixed 80 Hz
12 dB/octave high pass filter

[jdubs]

Q1: I've mounted speakers to the wall with no resonance issues. Some mounts have a thin piece of soft material such as rubber or foam. YMMV. Stands would be better, but you can make your solution work.

Q2: A lot of subs have a built in, adjustable, speaker level crossover. For what you describe, this would be the best bang for buck solution.

[KeithL]

If you're considering a smaller sub you should check out our Flex Sub:   emotiva.com/collections/subwoofers/products/airmotiv-s8
(It has a built in crossover.)

Or, obviously you could consider a PT1 or a PT2 (which has a fancier crossover arrangement than the PT1).

Otherwise, MOST subs have a variable low-pass filter, which you can use to blend them with the main speakers.
Or you could put a passive high-pass filter on the main speaker amp.
Or you could use something like the two-way version of this for both:     www.hlabs.com/products/crossovers/index_files/Page384.htm
(It's an adjustable passive low pass / high pass crossover).

Sept 28, 2022 16:11:56 GMT -5 jdubs said:

Q1: I've mounted speakers to the wall with no resonance issues. Some mounts have a thin piece of soft material such as rubber or foam. YMMV. Stands would be better, but you can make your solution work.

Q2: A lot of subs have a built in, adjustable, speaker level crossover. For what you describe, this would be the best bang for buck solution.