|
Post by thompson12 on Oct 28, 2022 20:19:55 GMT -5
My XPA-5 GEN 1 shot down on its own and when I turned it back on smoke poured out the top. Every time I turned it back on channel 5 flashed red and shut down. After pulling it out of the setup and opening it up I found the culprit. Part #A1837 on a good one. Anyone have suggestions on up grades or keep it the same? Mitch
|
|
|
Post by vcautokid on Oct 28, 2022 20:28:17 GMT -5
Frankly I would keep it the same. Also since you are in there I would consider recapping your XPA-5, it is getting up there in age. Especially vulnerable are the controller. That can't ever die as getting replacement is neigh impossible. True also on the XPRs too.
|
|
|
Post by thompson12 on Oct 28, 2022 20:33:04 GMT -5
So any suggestions on what would be good upgrade parts
Mitch
|
|
|
Post by vcautokid on Oct 28, 2022 20:48:01 GMT -5
Sticking with name brand makes like Nichicon audiophile grade 105c caps as a start. I used some on my TEAC A-7300 reel to reel and will do more. There are that great too.
|
|
|
Post by selind40 on Oct 28, 2022 20:56:52 GMT -5
If you like the Gen 1 amps, I’ve got an XPA-2 & XPA-3 I’m going to be listing…..they both equal an XPA-5 😳🤣
|
|
|
Post by thompson12 on Oct 28, 2022 21:05:12 GMT -5
Sticking with name brand makes like Nichicon audiophile grade 105c caps as a start. I used some on my TEAC A-7300 reel to reel and will do more. There are that great too. Thanks, I was following your rebuild nice job. Mitch
|
|
|
Post by MusicHead on Oct 28, 2022 23:18:34 GMT -5
My XPA-5 GEN 1 shot down on its own and when I turned it back on smoke poured out the top. Every time I turned it back on channel 5 flashed red and shut down. After pulling it out of the setup and opening it up I found the culprit. View AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentPart #A1837 on a good one. Anyone have suggestions on up grades or keep it the same? View AttachmentMitch The logo indicates a Toshiba device, full part number is 2SA1837, a PNP transistor generally used in driver stages. As already suggested, I'd stick to the same device.
|
|
|
Post by thompson12 on Oct 29, 2022 9:20:59 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by 405x5 on Oct 29, 2022 10:55:21 GMT -5
I’ve been there once with smoke and fire, and I can tell you for sure it’s no day at the beach. Whatever solution you come up with in the near future, I hope it is one that pleases you. I had an AR XA integrated amplifier WAY BACK WHEN…. Jimi Hendrix was on the platter if I recall correctly. Suddenly there was no music a little crackling sound, and then a flame coming out of the top. You never saw me run so fast….within minutes that amplifier was out the back door for fear of having a fire in the house, the amp was pretty new, I was a teenager, and the place I bought the thing from was very unhappy with me, but fixed it. Those were the days.
|
|
|
Post by audiobill on Oct 29, 2022 11:07:04 GMT -5
405 - I also had an ARXA, an AR Tuner and an AR receiver - about 1970....
|
|
|
Post by 405x5 on Oct 29, 2022 11:27:01 GMT -5
405 - I also had an ARXA, an AR Tuner and an AR receiver - about 1970.... yes all of that AR gear was wildly popular back then. My brother and I both had the AR amplifier. He took a black magic marker and made an arrow at around the 2 PM mark on the volume as the point of no return for him. Lol.
|
|
|
Post by thompson12 on Oct 30, 2022 5:38:20 GMT -5
I have no problem soldering but when I search for the parts I get to many options. Could you guys point me in the direction to some links to buy the parts. Thanks much appreciated.
Mitch
|
|
|
Post by 405x5 on Oct 30, 2022 6:35:04 GMT -5
New amplifier shopping time I would respectfully suggest. Turning an amplifier on and off repeatedly that has already had smoke coming out of it? Trying to fix this. Will take you down a path of needless frustration.
|
|
|
Post by MusicHead on Oct 30, 2022 7:19:00 GMT -5
I have no problem soldering but when I search for the parts I get to many options. Could you guys point me in the direction to some links to buy the parts. Thanks much appreciated. Mitch Digikey, Mouser and Newark are reputable distributors that will sell low quantities: www.digikey.com/www.mouser.com/www.newark.com/However, it looks like the Toshiba 2SA1837 is an obsolete part. Trying to fix the amp could indeed be going down the rabbit hole.
|
|
|
Post by thompson12 on Oct 30, 2022 8:14:12 GMT -5
Better pics of the parts, hard to get pics with the boards still in the amps Mitch
|
|
|
Post by thompson12 on Oct 30, 2022 8:16:48 GMT -5
I have no problem soldering but when I search for the parts I get to many options. Could you guys point me in the direction to some links to buy the parts. Thanks much appreciated. Mitch Digikey, Mouser and Newark are reputable distributors that will sell low quantities: www.digikey.com/www.mouser.com/www.newark.com/However, it looks like the Toshiba 2SA1837 is an obsolete part. Trying to fix the amp could indeed be going down the rabbit hole. Thanks I have it apart so to me for a few bucks it's worth a try Mitch
|
|
|
Post by thompson12 on Oct 30, 2022 9:29:23 GMT -5
So after a closer look I see out of the eight transistors there's six different numbers Mitch
|
|
|
Post by MusicHead on Oct 30, 2022 11:46:38 GMT -5
The one marked C4793 is a Toshiba 2SC4793 NPN transistor. It is complementary to the 2SA1837, if fact each one is mentioned in the other's datasheet.
|
|
|
Post by MusicHead on Oct 30, 2022 11:58:31 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by thompson12 on Oct 30, 2022 16:11:05 GMT -5
So after examining the board more I've noticed that the numbers beside the transistors are all Toshiba numbers, what would be the reason they didn't use all Toshiba transistors? Maybe Keith has an answer Mitch
|
|