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Post by selind40 on Dec 17, 2023 23:00:56 GMT -5
So....I have an XSP-1 G2 that I've had since around 2017 ...bought from the original owner. After a few years or so of use it would intermittently not turn on after sitting overnight. I posted on here asking if anyone else had this issue, some helpful tips came in....anyway, I sent it back to Team Blue Light (Emo) for a flat fee of $300 bucks to be gone through...they replaced some parts and sent it back. All was fine for a while, the intermittent power on issue came back. I basically would get it to turn on and left it on for weeks at a time.... only shut it off if I was leaving the house for days for work. Long story short, I got it to come on by using a hair dryer to heat the innards of it up, it turned right on first push of the big Amber button. Cold solder joint??? It's getting cold up here in NY and I had this in my little home office setup.... I've since moved on to a Parasound Halo integrated I had sitting idle. I'm not going to send it back to Emo for another $300 bucks....at this point I'm sticking with the Parasound. Once you heat it up and get it going it performs great.... it's just the BS getting to react after getting cold. Anyone looking for a project or backup for parts?? What's a fair price with the full disclosure I've given??
Thanks,
Scotty
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Post by selind40 on Dec 19, 2023 22:39:15 GMT -5
Did a video today 3:23 seconds with the hair dryer it came to life….gotta be a cold solder issue. If you want the video , I’ll send it to you via pm. It’ll take $200 bucks plus actually shipping.
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Post by leonski on Dec 20, 2023 0:26:01 GMT -5
Modern solder is for sh**. Old-school solder was a little less brittle and less prone to cold solder joints. And had Lead. Training helps, too. I was taught by a man who was Mil Spec rated for soldering. A big course of study with even some joints being cut in HALF looking for voids and bad fill. www.kester.com/products/product/275-flux-cored-wireLink to KESTER 275 line. Look down and SOME are Lead Free.......I'll avoid these until I know better. I prefer KESTER 44, which is, IMO, a superior flux....helps bonding and is non-acidic. Call EMO and ASK what solder they use. I'll bet you 5$ in Monopoly Money that they use Lead Free....... I NEVER had cold solder problems on anything I bought until this ROHS compliant stuff came out. I have a DAC which I'd like to fix and my old Panasonic TV needed a good reflow.....maybe 300$ worth. I fixed a buddies computer (with a 4 layer board) by accident since I had NO idea what I was doing, but DID replace the power input jack and flowed THAT into place. Worked for another couple years...... If you were adventurous? You Could fix it. I wish I had need.....but my NEXT move is to a newer system wth maybe KLIPSCH speakers. My Parasound A23 (two of 'em) are flawless..... |
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Post by selind40 on Dec 20, 2023 21:41:54 GMT -5
I was a Crew Chief…..left the soldering to the bubble boys. I’ll probably take it to a local shop, see what they can find. For now it’s in its shipping box, the Parasound Halo Integrated is working just fine. Never had a single issue with all the Parasound gear I own.
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Post by leonski on Dec 20, 2023 22:12:38 GMT -5
Remember the 'MOTTO' of those who solder for a living::
'The Bigger the Blob, the Better the Job'......
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Post by selind40 on Dec 20, 2023 23:15:01 GMT -5
Remember the 'MOTTO' of those who solder for a living:: 'The Bigger the Blob, the Better the Job'...... Lol….🎅🤣🥃 |
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Post by thezone on Dec 21, 2023 1:22:06 GMT -5
Remember the 'MOTTO' of those who solder for a living:: 'The Bigger the Blob, the Better the Job'...... This would only make sense if you are not soldering small wires in close prox to one another! |
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Post by leonski on Dec 21, 2023 17:34:18 GMT -5
Just a dumb joke, 'Zone........the reality is pretty much opposite. Use as little as possible. Make a nice 'shape' around the connection.....But do Not 'spew' solder everywhere.
You will end up with problems that way and eventually a blob will end up somewhere you'd rather in NOT be......Even across a pair of traces on a board can be deadly.
I recently did some chassis work on an ancient Kenwood amp from the 70s.....And used a lot of TAPE around where I'd be cutting.....and MAGNETS to catch filings....
I actually cleaned and vacuumed for longer than it took to make the actual mod for the new cord. But no problems later, either......And the soldering on the Stranded wire?
I could see the outline of each strand after the solder got 'sucked in'.......Nice tinning.....
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