NorthStar
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Post by NorthStar on Jan 6, 2011 0:44:26 GMT -5
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selkec
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Post by selkec on Jan 6, 2011 7:34:11 GMT -5
If this is just the subwoofer then your low pass filter is not functioning properly. Here's my suggestion. Cut @ 40Hz by -6db. Boost @ 70 Hz by +3db. Set the subwoofer filter to 80Hz. Try that. I checked and my low pass filter is set to lfe on the back of the sub. Its then set in my pioneer elite to 80hz. I to am curious as to why im seeing things over 80hz thru the sub/ The weird thing is when watching movies I dont hear anything really high. Like if I turn the dial over to say 140hz then its like I can hear deep mens voices but once I turn the sub know back to lfe they go away. I willl have to lookm more into this as it may be a setup I missed when adding a new input as laptop in the elite.
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geebo
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Post by geebo on Jan 6, 2011 10:31:49 GMT -5
If you're feeding the signal into a analog input eg CD, then the mains will play the signal down to 80 then cross to the sub. Are you sure that signal above 80 isn't coming thru the mains.
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Jan 6, 2011 10:50:10 GMT -5
If this is just the subwoofer then your low pass filter is not functioning properly. Here's my suggestion. Cut @ 40Hz by -6db. Boost @ 70 Hz by +3db. Set the subwoofer filter to 80Hz. Try that. I checked and my low pass filter is set to lfe on the back of the sub. Its then set in my pioneer elite to 80hz. I to am curious as to why im seeing things over 80hz thru the sub/ The weird thing is when watching movies I dont hear anything really high. Like if I turn the dial over to say 140hz then its like I can hear deep mens voices but once I turn the sub know back to lfe they go away. I willl have to lookm more into this as it may be a setup I missed when adding a new input as laptop in the elite. You're seeing harmonics and room anomolies. Try setting the preamp crossover to its highest setting like 250Hz and try using the Xover on the subwoofer amp.
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geebo
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Post by geebo on Jan 6, 2011 11:03:20 GMT -5
DYohn, correct me if I'm wrong. But if you feed the signal into an input and the run a sweep from 10Hz to 200Hz and the mains' crossovers are set to 80, then the signal from 80 to 200 will, in fact, play thru the mains. You can either set the mains crossover as high as you can or disconnect the speakers to take them out of the measurement.
George
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DYohn
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Post by DYohn on Jan 6, 2011 11:11:39 GMT -5
DYohn, correct me if I'm wrong. But if you feed the signal into an input and the run a sweep from 10Hz to 200Hz and the mains' crossovers are set to 80, then the signal from 80 to 200 will, in fact, play thru the mains. You can either set the mains crossover as high as you can or disconnect the speakers to take them out of the measurement. George Yes that is correct, but I thought the OP stated he was just testing the subwoofer, which is why I asked that question in the first place. I hope the mains are disconn4cted...
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Post by Nemesis.ie on Jan 6, 2011 11:46:28 GMT -5
If this is just the subwoofer then your low pass filter is not functioning properly. Here's my suggestion. Cut @ 40Hz by -6db. Boost @ 70 Hz by +3db. Set the subwoofer filter to 80Hz. Try that. I checked and my low pass filter is set to lfe on the back of the sub. Its then set in my pioneer elite to 80hz. I to am curious as to why im seeing things over 80hz thru the sub/ The weird thing is when watching movies I dont hear anything really high. Like if I turn the dial over to say 140hz then its like I can hear deep mens voices but once I turn the sub know back to lfe they go away. I willl have to lookm more into this as it may be a setup I missed when adding a new input as laptop in the elite. Your latest graphs are looking more reasonable. Did you also calibrate the sound device in the laptop? You are only using the right channel in and right channel out as well, yes? If you use the left ones at all (optional), they should be directly connected to each other and you can enable a "feedback loop" in the settings. I also suggest you get version 5 if you are currently using version 4. www.hometheatershack.com/forums/REWv5_Beta/www.hometheatershack.com/forums/downloads-area/28595-rew-v5-beta-downloads.html
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selkec
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Post by selkec on Jan 6, 2011 13:32:37 GMT -5
I am only running my sub in the test as I have an input setup labeled as laptop and have the triggers turned off so the mains and surrounds never make a sound. I think I am just not thinking something correctly. Maybe someone can clarify this for me. When my processor is set to 80hz that means that anything 80hz or lower goes just to the sub or my mains when set to sub/plus. Which I use because it sounds better and also because its the only way to get the sub to play when using the ipod dock on the processor. Anyways. Have I mentioned that I am still just learning and have not got the behringer yet or the midi connection. In fact Im still playing and running these sweeps using the internal laptop sound card with the mic in and headphone out to an adapter to rca to my processor. I am awaiting the new usb sound card in the mail. Then I can actually probably get better readings. But till then Im still learning and think I finally got a pretty good couple sweeps on 3 and 4. Nemesis I did calibrate the spl meter but dont have the sound card to calibrate yet. and I do have version 5. And I do agree with you I think my latest graphs do look alot better. Especially getting them the way I am without the external sound card that has line in and out.. I still am surprised as th ethe spl this little 8" sub has. and really surprised that I can hit 121db with my mains with certain songs when the bass hits. But I guess My mains do have three 7" subs ecah plus my little 8". So I really have 6 seven inch and 1 eight inch sub runing now. But my goal is to get one or 2 good subs that can dig deep but not just boom and no port noise if thats possible. And I expect my spl to go up also form what its at now. I love me some bass.....Once I get a real sub I will disable the low frequencies running thru my mains as I wont need them for bass. I wish I knew how the ultra 12's would sound stacked in my corner. But not sure they will go as low as I want. But sounjds like they do have some decent spl. Im leaning towards the Elemantal a5-350 but can be persuaded to go another route by you smart guys on here
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2011 17:35:36 GMT -5
DYohn, correct me if I'm wrong. But if you feed the signal into an input and the run a sweep from 10Hz to 200Hz and the mains' crossovers are set to 80, then the signal from 80 to 200 will, in fact, play thru the mains. You can either set the mains crossover as high as you can or disconnect the speakers to take them out of the measurement. George + for unhooking your speakers when using rew to test your sub/subs
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selkec
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Post by selkec on Jan 6, 2011 17:40:51 GMT -5
Or you can have the 12v triggers shut off on the input your using as I am doing. Therefore my amps do not turn on and no sound comes out of my speakers because my amps are off. No need to unhook the speakers if the amps are off. I simply click the laptop input and off goes my amps and speakers all but my sub.
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Post by Nemesis.ie on Jan 7, 2011 12:45:24 GMT -5
Anyways. Have I mentioned that I am still just learning and have not got the behringer yet or the midi connection. Nemesis I did calibrate the spl meter but dont have the sound card to calibrate yet. and I do have version 5. And I do agree with you I think my latest graphs do look alot better. Especially getting them the way I am without the external sound card that has line in and out.. Hi! Might I suggest you DO NOT get a BFD, go instead for the MiniDSP - mine arrived today, other than having no controls on the unit itself, it is smaller, better and about the same price. Setup is a breeze (my BFD does not seem to want to take the MIDI commands despite setting it up for that), you do it on your computer via an easy menu. I suspect it uses less power too. It's also configurable to do lots of other stuff if you ever don't need it for sub EQ or want to play. www.dsp4you.com... and yes, it works with REW, you just output the file, load it into the MiniDSP software, hit sync and done, no messing with buttons on the unit etc. It's also silent, my BFD hums. You will need to get a USB charger with mini-USB plug (like you get on mobiles) for it too. It also works in real time, so you can fiddle with the software on your laptop in one window and see the results on your REW RTA as you do it.
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Post by Nemesis.ie on Jan 7, 2011 12:47:00 GMT -5
Or you can have the 12v triggers shut off on the input your using as I am doing. Therefore my amps do not turn on and no sound comes out of my speakers because my amps are off. No need to unhook the speakers if the amps are off. I simply click the laptop input and off goes my amps and speakers all but my sub. That seems like the best option to me - and what I do with the UMC-1.
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selkec
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Post by selkec on Jan 7, 2011 18:26:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. Ill check it out.
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Post by Trey on Jan 8, 2011 20:40:00 GMT -5
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selkec
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Post by selkec on Jan 8, 2011 21:54:23 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Think Im sold on the mini dsp now. seems pretty simple actually. Now I just need to find me a good sub. I look on audiogon and craigslist and all the forums but cant find any deals. I found an ED a5-350 on ebay right now for 550 but its pickup only. That would be perfect for me. Damn its too far from me.
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selkec
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Post by selkec on Jan 8, 2011 22:22:56 GMT -5
Which mini dsp do I need? reva or revb ? Dont quite understand the voltage thing. Im assuming revA.
Also when hooking up since just using for a sub does it matter if I use left or right?
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Post by Trey on Jan 8, 2011 22:53:38 GMT -5
Rev B is suggested by John (REW) if using the sub out on your receiver for input. Email miniDSP and they will confirm.
Also, I edited my post above and added a very detailed setup guide. Makes me want to sell my BFD and get the miniDSP.
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selkec
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Post by selkec on Jan 8, 2011 23:00:24 GMT -5
Thanks Trey
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Post by Trey on Jan 16, 2011 16:26:04 GMT -5
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Post by Nemesis.ie on Jan 17, 2011 6:03:11 GMT -5
Which mini dsp do I need? reva or revb ? Dont quite understand the voltage thing. Im assuming revA. Also when hooking up since just using for a sub does it matter if I use left or right? The good news is that it no longer really matters. The latest PCB comes with jumpers on it so you can switch between A and B if the one your order it set to doesn't work (albeit after removing a few screws if you buy the cased one). I use it on "B" with the UMC-1 and it seems to work nicely. No, L or R makes no odds. You can even copy the same filters to both outputs (or one input) and use two of the outputs as a splitter to feed the L+R inputs on the sub.
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